Beijing is moving forward in a big way;  really, a quick moving microcosm of the country as a whole.  Irrespective of the Olympics catalyst, the “People” get things done in the Republic and in some small way I’m pleased to be a part of it, whether it’s plunking down small change for a token gift or photographing the city skyline to share with my readers.  It’s an imperfect city that’s given plenty the right to complain - pollution, heavy traffic - but it’s also taking great strides to improve the living conditions and still offers plenty in the way of cultural heritage and daily attractions. 

Typically, I visit China at six month intervals each year, strategically avoiding the hot summer months where the bright sun and dry climate make for an all-day sauna to sweat the stamina out of many a would-be visitor still suffering from half a day’s jet lag.  Owing much to its northern geography, springtime in Beijing offers the comfortable temperatures where daytime highs won’t reach much beyond 70 F and the evening is comfortably cool.  So as it turned out, I timed my visit just right, arriving at the tail end of China’s Golden Week holiday and perhaps avoiding the large crowds along the way. 

Some airlines are now offering non-stop service to Beijing from the States.  My route’s been New York/New Jersey to Beijing the last several times and yes, it’s every bit as long as it’s feared to be by the many who’ve yet to venture there, but at the end of the “day,” the 13 hours doesn’t seem quite so bad as the four hour layover in Tokyo plus the additional two to arrive from there.  Beijing International is cut from the same cloth as the many big name global heavyweights of today.  While I won’t comment on the parking facilities, a typical drawback of most, the fully functional airport is world-class and features plenty of worldly attractions plus the standard, if touristy, massage parlors and roast duck restaurants. 

If you’re going it alone find out in advance what the going rate is for a taxi from the airport to your hotel.  The hotels will usually have this information and oftentimes it’s posted on their website in terms of length and cost.  Of course this does not always mean much if you’re trying to negotiate a ride, much less a reasonable rate, with a taxi driver who doesn’t understand your language, but at least you’re armed with a rough idea and something to refer to.  Many drivers are also made accountable to the businesses they pick up and deliver to, which is to say, make a note of the cab number or save the receipt for future reference if they try to rip you off.  Also steer clear of the circling vultures that run rampant through the aisles looking for the next foreign affair to arrive from the gate, since they run their rates up twice as high as the normal taxis and you have no recourse.

Another option is to go to the information booth and simply ask them to get you a car service to your hotel.  It’s a little more expensive, but may be more convenient as they do accept credit card payments and it’s easier to present them your destination rather than hailing a taxi on your own.  For further reference, a 40-minute taxi ride from the airport to the Holiday Inn Downtown should run from 120 to 150 RMB, or about $15 to $20.

Cutting corners can be very helpful when navigating through a city like Beijing because you’ll likely be riding in cabs everyplace you go unless you’re somewhat savvy and can learn the bus or subway route.  Of course it also helps to have friends that can drive, but short of that, the cabs are the best way to go and very economical by western standards.  It is easy to get drawn in, however, by such attractive prices for transport, lodging and dining, and even small change adds up quickly to the point you’re wondering how the 800 RMB (Yuan) you’ve been carrying in your wallet suddenly diminished into 340.  Tipping is also not required or expected. 

Lodging in Beijing, as with any major city, can be as modest or exorbitant as you like.  I recommend a good three or four  star hotel slightly removed from the downtown financial district as you can expect to pay approximately $60 - $70 a night. I usually stay at the Holiday Inn Downtown, which is a classy, clean hotel, with all the expected amenities, and is in proximity to many area attractions such as Tiananmen Square and The Forbidden Palace, but also because I’m a Priority Club member and a free night every now and again is a welcome perk.  Also be prepared for a 15% surcharge tacked on to the bill, and as with any hotel, make less use of the on-site consumables and visit a local shop for what you’ll need - you’ll save plenty of money and may even garner a smile from the merchant. 

Beijing is a big city, yet much of what it offers in terms of area attractions, The Great Wall not withstanding, is relatively close to the city center.  An overhead view of the city reveals the center, where Tiananmen Square and the governing district lies, as well as the popular Palace Museum.  From there the city is outlined by four roads known as “rings,” dare I say for their circular layout, but they make for valuable reference points for anyone venturing off on their own.  For example, while much of the touristy scene is located within the center and inside the 2nd Ring where you’ll find a variety of temples and traditional buildings alongside modern day marvels amid the financial street, beyond the 2nd Ring lies a broader circle with additional attractions as the density thins and farther stretches of park space and openness present themselves.  So between the 2nd and 3rd Rings we find such highlights as the Beijing Zoo, Temple of Heaven and a vast array of theaters, museums, mosques, and cultural centers. 

Is it that important to know all this?  Considering many of us could never navigate through this system of circles or make sense of street names in the first place, any little bit of reference is helpful to gauge approximate distances and orient ourselves to some degree.  Also bear in mind that on a fairly clear day of light traffic, it’s not exactly far to move from the core of the city through the outerlying 4th Ring; everything spreads out further beyond the center and many highway entrances lie just inside the 2nd Ring so in most cases to go from the center to the 4th Ring toward the Hai Dian District, for instance, to visit one of the nearby Universities, could take some 20 minutes.  The city is also hard at work extending existing and creating new subway lines in their ongoing effort to lighten traffic conditions and improve the pollution that’s long been a plague on the city in advance of the Olympic Games.  Most casual observers might say, “Good luck.”  I say, it certainly can’t hurt. 

Beijing’s less cosmopolitan than Shanghai and more cultural, so visitors will find less to do with international fashion strips and fancy clubs and more to do with traditional temples and sacred park grounds.  It likely wasn’t always this way, but owing to the astounding modernization taking place in Shanghai more or less uprooting much of its traditional foundation it’ll be difficult to place any major city up against it before too long.  That said, Beijing is not without a large degree of modernity and advancement;  it’s just not as profound as Shanghai and one might look harder to find the glitz and glamour. 

While few might consider it glamorous - romantic maybe - the Hou Hai Lake area is certainly a popular attraction for tourists and locals alike, and among the busier nightspots in the city.  Located in the Dongcheng District to the north of Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City, the “shore” of this man-made lake is filled with terraces and a numerous selection of restaurants and bars.  Also known locally as the Hou Hai “Bar” Street, the title is as good an indicator as any that the spirit of free competition is alive and kicking.  Upon entering through Lotus Lane, a busy street with an active square where people peddle merchandise, massages and maps, Hou Hai comes across like an oasis in the middle of the city.  Bicycles, pedicabs and boats of all types are available for hire, but it’s probably best to leisurely stroll as you take in the trendy little boutiques and eateries and circle around the lake where you’ll view a few paddleboats petering along the lake.Early evening is the best time to go for a pre-dinner drink by the lake as things start heating up shortly after 6 p.m. and all the prime seating becomes occupied.  The places fill up surprisingly quickly.  One moment you’re having a light conversation gazing toward the sunset and admiring the peaceful scenery, then the next you’re up and about, the dinner bell rings and your best bet is to patronize the nearest pushcart. 

There are many different bars and restaurants that line the circumference of the lake so there’s plenty of selection with or without prime seating.  The bars are tiny, probably some 50 square meters, and most offer outdoor seating and colorful signage to get your attention as you walk by.  And if that doesn’t work, the staffers aren’t shy about inviting you in and pushing the global premiums on you as an added enticement.  With or without Budweiser, the bars are a dime a dozen, literally on top of each other, separated only by certain thematic characteristics where you’ll see anything reminiscent of India or a European style pub… it’s a pub crawl to rival the likes of London!  Interestingly enough, and perhaps not surprisingly, is that the occupancy rate is not very high.  There’s really no better time to visit than early May and I was hard-pressed to go past a handful at a time that weren’t completely empty.  Perhaps a 2-for-1 drink special?

Moving beyond the “beer” street toward the circular stretch opposite the front entrance across the lake, there are several side streets and driveways that house speciality shops that produce everything from pottery to popular fashions.  The local sidewalk vendors offer impressive displays of knick-knacks at better prices than the nearby shops, sporting everything from traditional Chinese garb, keychains, wall-hangings, and the like, to impressive nice crystal vases and jade jewelry.  There’s also plenty of junk to sift through, but take some time and you’ll spot a worthwhile handmade treasure to bring the loved ones.  After dark is really when Hou Hai shines with dazzling bright lights illuminating the lake where at the right moment the image can be absolutely storybook. 

It’s all happening at the zoo?  It would seem so.  The Beijing Zoo is of course among the area highlights to see and always a winner with the kids.  Located between the 2nd and 3rd Rings, the big draw here are the panda bears, a featured attraction both inside the park and on every conceivable piece of promotional literature.  I wish I’d saved my tickets.  But the real trick is to get the little devils to come out long enough to oblige the throngs of would-be fashion photogs ogling for a view.  The zoo offers a pleasant, relaxed atmosphere and enough attractions to fill the afternoon. 
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