| 'The
colourful crowd are pinned to the earth by the blistering summer sun.
They are expectant, excited, chattering. The constant breeze seems
to have arrested just at this moment. A cheer. All eyes turn
to the edge of the corral. In swaggers the gaucho - tall,
lean, mean, creases etched into his tanned, leathery face. Dusty
boots, sharply polished knife. He acknowledges the adulation with
merely a nod and turns, slowly, to the bucking, frightened potros
(colt) tied tightly to a single pole in the middle of the arena.
Silence. Let the entertainment begin.'
It wasn't always
so. The breaking of the colts was no entertainment; that and the
herding of cattle was hard work and a tough way of life. The gaucho,
a romantic image of the past, he represented freedom from colonial control.
Today, a heroic image of the present, he represents freedom from social
constraints. In reality, life for the horsemen of the pampas
(grasslands), then and now, is harsher than myth relates.
During the
19th century when the first European settlers arrived in Argentina they
brought their horses and cattle with them. Some animals escaped domestication
and quickly populated the fertile pampas, and from these free resources
emerged the gaucho, relying on the cattle for food and clothing
and the horses for transportation. It is said that the real gaucho
is recognized by his bandy legs as he is seldom out of the saddle!
The name gaucho,
history has it, is derived from the Quechua language and means,
'orphan' or 'vagabond'. Quechua is the indigenous language
of the Andean region of South America and is spoken by approximately 13
million people today in Bolivia, Peru, northern Chile, southern Colombia
and Argentina. It was also the official language of the Inca Empire.
The first recorded use of the term gaucho dates from around the
time of Argentine independence in 1816 although gauchos, as such,
were known to have wandered the countryside as early as the 1600s.
The gaucho
was nomadic and did not need to reside in a formal settlement to have a
code of conduct of his own. Gauchos shunned social interaction
and were hardy and uncompromising, but famously kind to weary travellers,
always sharing their food or what little shelter they had. If the
mood took them they would work on the massive cattle estancias (estates)
for a season, before moving on. Their wandering existence meant those
who might have had homes, with a common law wife and even offspring, spent
little time there. Sons of gauchos invariably became gauchos
too. Early account of the gauchos describe them as uncouth,
with plenty of time on their hands, much of which was spent drinking mate
(a mildly narcotic herbal concoction drunk from a gourd), and gambling.
In the 18th
century, leather was a more prized commodity than meat and became the major
trading item between the old world and the colonies. Thus once the
cattle had been slaughtered for their skin, the rest was discarded to be
purloined by the gauchos. The meat was quickly cooked on an
open fire before it went bad and today this means of cooking meat - asado,
has become a national dish.
Not only were
the gauchos independent and tough; they knew the terrain of the
interior intimately and were consummately skilled horse handlers and so
became ideal conscripts into the army for the wars of independence and
subsequent civil wars. Through their fighting ability and loyalty
they gained a new respect and a certain amount of political force in the
early years of the Argentine republic. Today they still enjoy the
former, but not the latter. Laws restricting freedom of movement
coupled with mass immigration from Europe at the end of the 19th century
led to the demise of the 'real' gaucho, who passed into the realms
of myth and became a symbol of Argentine identity.
The gaucho's
flamboyant dress is as much a part of their culture as their distinctive
character, and despite a few modern additions the costume is much the same
as it was a few hundred years ago. The typical gaucho outfit
would include a poncho which doubled as a saddle blanket and sleeping
bag, loose fitting trousers called bombachas, belted with a tirador
(sash),
or a chiripa which was a piece of cloth tied to resemble a diaper!
The gaucho also typically carried a facon-a long bladed knife,
always worn at the back of the waist, a rebenque (whip) and a lasso-a
rope made of plaited hide. His most unusual accessory would be the
boleodoras-basically
three leather bound rocks tied together with approximately three feet long
leather straps -these were used to catch wild horses, ostriches or deer
- by throwing the boleadoras at the legs of the escaping creature
the balls swing round and round until the poor animal's legs are tied together.
The modern
day gaucho commands a degree of celebrity status, and can often
be seen galloping on his horse alongside the road, long hair streaming
in the wind, looking majestic and somewhat godlike. He may
still travel from town to town performing valuable seasonal work on the
estancias,
especially to the west of Buenos Aires, and exhibit their skills at the
country bordilleros (horse shows).
'The poltros
is quiet, frightened, its head low to the pole, his forelegs hobbled.
A brief struggle as the recador (small saddle) is placed on his
back. The gaucho stands silent as the horse is prepared, feeling
his character, weighing him up. He swaps his wide brimmed hat for a beret
and takes a few deep breaths - the crowd breathe with him. The excitement
grows as the gaucho mounts. The potros is momentarily
subdued, but on being released from the stake he goes wild. The cheering
crowd almost disappears behind a film of hot dust kicked up by the hooves.
The gaucho holds thereigns short and tight, his body arching back,
his knees gripping the sweating flank of the awesome creature beneath him.
Man and beast in a desperate struggle for supremacy. That's entertainment!'
|
.
...
.
.
. |