..
Alderney:
A Sojourn
By Elizabeth
McNamer
|
|
August 2006
| In
the summer of 1956 I needed a job. The American Government was offering
five pounds sterling per day (thirty five pounds a week!) to London students
to dig up the bodies of American soldiers buried in Normandy for return
home. While the thought of earning such a colossal amount, plus the
idea of France appealed to me, I was squeamish about the dead bodies.
Then I read about another job: “Waitress, chambermaid and general
help wanted at the Marais Hotel in Alderney; three pounds per week plus
room and board; expenses from London will be paid. Contact Tommy Rose etc
etc. ” I looked up Alderney on the map and found that it was
a small island, three and a half by one mile, just six miles off the French
coast. Thirty two pounds less per week than America was offering,
but a sense of France and no dead bodies.
So, on June
19th 1956 I left London and flew from Heathrow to Gurnsey (my first
plane trip). I stayed the night there and went to a play.
The man sitting next to me was wearing the same after shave lotion that
Tony (my current boy friend ) wore. I automatically reached for his
hand and cozied up to him much to his surprise and the surprise of his
wife who was beside him! Why does one remember such things?
Next morning,
early, surrounded by screeching sea gulls and the turquoise sea I sailed
the 20 miles across the English Channel. On board was a honeymoon
couple. She was wearing blue trousers and a coral coloured blouse
and a gold charm bracelet. She told me that she collected charms
from everyplace she visited. I determined to do the same thing
and one of the first things I did in Alderney was to buy a bracelet (silver,
not gold) and a charm, which was a map of Alderney. That bracelet
was to collect numerous charms to each of which appertains a story.
The last was given me by my husband at the time of our wedding.
Tommy Rose
met me at the harbour in his ancient motorcar and drove me to his
ancient hotel in Saint Anne’s Square where he installed me in an
ancient room and told me to take a sleep. I wasn’t tired but was
told that it was what everyone did on Alderney in the afternoon.
(They still do.) The room was very small with an old
four-poster bed and thick, thick walls. Not a sound could be
heard from anywhere. Not a word, not a bird, not a human voice.
I looked out the small window and saw the sunlight thrown on a white washed
wall across the way, and a trough which had once been used to feed
animals in the middle of the deserted square. And I fell in love
with the scene. range how the mind will hold a picture forever. …Nothing
extraordinary about it …. And in my dreams over those years, the wall
and the ancient trough has returned time and time again.
Tommy Rose
was a handsome man in his early sixties. I was soon to find out why
he had had to import help from England. is wife was an alcoholic and she
was the cook and general supervisor. He ran the bar. They were
constantly rowing with each another and she used to refer to him
as “that bloody fool.” She had obviously been a beautiful woman
in her youth, but now drink and cigarettes had taken their toll. . She
wore her pearls everyday and proudly told me that her husband (the bloody
fool) had given them to her on her wedding day.
Two other persons
worked at the hotel, a lovely young thing called Inez who was a secretary
in London and was talking the summer off to find herself. And a woman
called Vera who came in to do the washing up. Inez and I were the
waitresses, chambermaids and general help. We got up at seven every
morning and prepared the tea to take to the guests in bed. Some of
the guests stayed in an annex, which was the other side of the vegetable
garden. We served breakfast (bacon, egg, sausage, tomato and mushrooms),
which Mrs. Rose cooked while sipping her whiskey and smoking her cigarettes,
and tipping over the milk and yelling at one of us. There seemed
to be designated days for finding fault with each of us: Vera had got the
water too hot, Inez whipped the cream too much, or I had bruised the lettuce.
Mrs. Rose seemed only happy when she was scolding.
Beds had to
be make in the morning and the rooms swept and dusted and the sheets washed
in a large old stone tub at the back of the hotel. We served morning
coffee in the lounge at eleven, then set the tables for lunch. Mrs.
Rose always checked to see that this was done properly and that the silver
had been polished. A small plane flew in every week carrying the
camembert cheese from Holland and this was the speciality of the house,
served every day at lunch after the soup, entrée and dessert.
Such was the job description for waitress and chambermaid. “General
help” involved weeding the garden, collecting the vegetables that
were needed for the day and sometimes serving drinks in the bar when Tommy
was taking time off. We were given two hours off every afternoon
to explore the island but had to be back to serve the usual tea and cake
at 4, to keep the wolf from the door until dinner at 6. And we worked
seven days a week. Tips were put in a glass jar and shared with Vera
and Mrs. Rose. I never saw Mrs. Rose eat but nonetheless she
was an excellent cook. And the same people returned year after year
to the hotel.
Tommy was an
early English aviator. He won the race from Cape Town to Croydon
in 1933 in a spitfire, and had served in the air force in World War One
when flying was new. He flew as co-pilot to Amy Johnson who
was also a well known pilot who lost her life flying - her body was never
recovered. Mr. Rose seemed very pleased to have me working
for him, and used to call me “Flora McDonald.” I had no idea who
she was or why he called me that. Later I learnt that she had accompanied
Bonnie Prince Charlie on his boat trip from the Isle of Skye and possibly
saved his life. Perhaps Tommy Rose thought of me as a saviour.
A fascinating
group frequented the hotel. A pilot and his wife and child showed
up and caused a big fuss because we had put them in a room with twin beds
and they could not sleep so far from each other. We solved the problem
by moving the beds together and using larger sheets. Years later
I met him again in Aspen where I was again engaged as a chambermaid.
He was without a wife and child and swore that he had never been to Alderney!
ut he was still a pilot and had the same name and the same face.
Strange! Perhaps he had an identical twin.
A man called
Ken, who supervised the meat factory, came to dinner every night with a
beautiful blonde woman who had orange skin and wore a gold bracelet on
her right arm. I was sure they were not married but nonetheless they
were there constantly and often stayed after for drinks. Then one
evening they did not show up. Instead an buxom jolly woman called Lulu
came to stay. It turned out that the blonde’s husband had suddenly
arrived from England. Lulu was the baby sitter of the two children
and was supposed to be supervising the wife. I don’t know what happened,
but a romance was suddenly put to an end.
One morning
I surprised a man and his secretary in bed together when I brought the
morning “cuppa.” They were supposed to be in separate rooms
and how was I to know any better, and they hadn’t even locked the door.
There were red faces all round that day.
Tom Coombs
grew up in Essex Castle, had been to Eaton and Oxford and now owned a private
army in Arabia (what one does with a private army I have no idea).
Anyway he was short and bald and about 35 years old but was a Catholic
and delighted to know that I was one too. He came with a group one
evening and then I got invited to the castle ( Mrs. Rose gave me an evening
off). is father presided at the fortress. Two great Irish wolfhounds wandering
around the stone floored room with its large fireplace and brasses and
swords. The heads of strange animals shot in India or somewhere in
the colonies, decorated the walls. The castle must have had a fascinating
history but I never learnt it. Two American women were staying at
Essex. One obviously had eyes on Tom and did not appreciate my presence.
A liveried footman stood behind each chair at the dining room table,
and the silver was almost too heavy to lift. Tom took me home that
night and we sat at the bottom of the stairs talking. Tommy Rose
appeared to check. Tom Cooms said “I can assure you that there has been
absolutely no impropriety.” Nor would there ever have been.
I did not find him attractive. Otherwise who knows where I might
be now?
One night the
word went around that the English officers in a boat in the harbour were
having a party and requested the company of women. I was all ready
for bed but Inez was anxious for a lark, and so we both went. It was a
brawl of young drunken men and I felt completely out of my depth.
Inez on the other hand was in hers. Sitting quietly by himself was one
man smoking a pipe. As things were getting rougher, he tapped me
on the shoulder and said “Do you mind if I escort you home.” I was
more than delighted to leave but wondered what to expect next.
As we walked over the moonlit hill, he explained that he was married
and had nothing romantic in mind, but felt that I was not in the appropriate
place. There are still gentlemen left in the world! How naïve
I was! Nineteen!
Another day
a Russian prince called Alexis appeared at the hotel. He had quite
a retinue with him and a yacht. He invited me to sail with him to Sark.
Of course I did not have the time, nor did I fancy being on a boat in the
middle of the sea with him. But Inez was game and Mrs. Rose gave her the
night off and she managed to return, but I do not know how. Alexie
bought me a charm of a sailboat, which I still have.
During
the war, all of the islanders were evacuated. One morning in 1940,
the church bells rang and announced that a ship was waiting in the harbour
to take everyone to England. They were allowed to take one suitcase
each. German soldiers took over the island and brought with them 5000 prisoners
of war as slave labourers. Many of these died of starvation and their
bodies were thrown over a high cliff. The Germans had a policy of
working the prisoners to the death. Most of them were Russian or
Polish. There are still German fortifications all over the place.
Oddly some of the soldiers still return nostalgically to the island.
One arrived some time ago saying “It’s good to be home again.” And
on the island of Sark, we met one German who had never left.
-
Article Continued Below - |
.
 |
| Parisians
do it and you can do it, too -- have a great three course meal with
wine and coffee in Paris for between $10 and $35 including tax and tip!
Adrian Leeds has been scouting good-value restaurants in Paris for more
than nine years. The Leeds Good Value Guide to Paris Restaurants is her
on-going effort to bring you secrets to great dining in all the districts
of Paris. There are more than 200 good-value restaurants in the guide --
and she samples each and every one and only recommends the best.
Get Adrian Leeds World Famous Paris Restaurant Guide |
Paris
Restaurant Guide - Click Here
|
|
...
.
.
|
Live
In Ireland! - A Survivor’s Guide To Living In Ireland - The
Honest Report On Moving To Ireland - Don't move to Ireland
without reading this report. What are the real facts about
moving to Ireland and living in Ireland? Will you be looking out the window
of your own thatched-roof cottage enjoying the view of rolling green hills,
quiet country lanes, and neatly trimmed hedgerows? Or is that just
a overly poetic rose colored fantasy? Will you be buying a cottage in the
country side for $15,000, or are those prices long gone? If you've
been thinking about moving to Ireland then you should know the facts and
this report has the real facts, not poetic nonsense. Written by an
American who has lived in Ireland for over twenty years this report will
provide you with the proper information so you will know exactly what to
expect. He is not in real estate, he has nothing to sell you. But he can
tell you about real estate and the reality of the $15,000 thatched roof
cottage. (He did buy a house for around that price...) Can you buy
one for that price today? The author, Tom Richards wouldn't leave
Ireland on a bet. ...and you can be sure that when you read this
report that you'll learn the real facts that you are going to need before
moving to Ireland. Written without any punches pulled. If you've everthought
about moving to Ireland, this is the report to read.
|
Live
In Ireland! - Click Here
|
|
.
.. |
.
|
| The
Portable Professional - Earn A Living Worldwide - It is now possible
to make a living from anywhere you can log on. The technology is
there and the opportunities are there. Mark McMahon has written an
eye-opening report on how to make a living worldwide. Earn US Dollars
and/or EUROS from wherever you are on the planet. The options are
limitless and the time is now. Learn more about how to break free
- learn how you can live your life like it belongs to you - Live Where
You Want To Live! ~ Live How You Want To Live! ~ And Make Money Doing It!
- |
|
|
|
.
|
The Expat’s
Guide to Living in Spain - A report on moving to Spain. The nation
that produced the twentieth centuries best artists; including Picasso and
Miro. The backdrop for the novel
The Sun Also Rises by Ernest
Hemingway, the novel about expats that changed our perspective of the world.
Spain is among the quintessential expat destinations. With fine real estate,
excellent food, profound culture, and some of Europe's best islands and
beaches, Spain is an extremely worthy consideration as an expat destination.
This report by Arin Vahanian, eighty pages in length, provides the details
that we need when considering Spain as a destination. Real Estate,
Contacts, Employment, Legal Considerations, Citizenship, all laid out in
a comprehensive easy to read format. An Expat’s Guide to Living in
Spain will save you money, answer your questions, and prepare you to live
in Spain. Available
online in eBook form: An Expat’s Guide to Living in Spain - Click
Here to learn more - |
|
|
..
|
The
Andorra Report - An
Expat’s Guide to Living in Andorra - Try to Imagine this: a
lush green valley... hidden from the rest of the world... yet only a short
drive from some of Europe's hottest cities. It's a secret valley that has
been overlooked for centuries. It is picturesque. unregulated, and best
of all there are no taxes. The Andorra Report will teach you the secrets
of Andorra, how you can live there tax-free for only a fraction of what
it's costing you to live in your own home. |
|
|
. |
|
|
.
-
Article
Continued From Above -.
Now at 69 I
returned. And Alderney arose Brigadoon like. It had not changed.
Still the old medieval houses and the cobbled streets. Very few tourists
and no Americans. Tommy Rose had died on June 21 1968 after he had
lost the hotel. The London Times did an obituary on him and I read
all about it in the museum. His wife survived but had her house
taken away by the bank to pay for her whiskey (a sort of reverse mortgage).
Poor woman! The drink had her in its grip. Some one told me that
Major Tom Cooms had married and had three children and had left the island
and Essex castle is now a block of flats.
What surprised
me was how few I met who had lived there long. A man called Roger
whom I found painting “my” wall told me he had lived there all his life
except during the war. Otherwise only the man who ran our boarding
house knew any of the characters I mentioned. Most people boasted
of being there 20 or 30 years. Many were rich English who had second
homes on the island. In fact, restoration of old buildings is one
of the main occupations of the islanders along with fishing. Fishing
boats were plentiful in the harbour. There are lots of lovely beaches,
but the water is too cold to swim. Gannets accumulate on the rocks
which surround the island. Each one has his own little spot just
like the penguins, and a little bird called a Puffin migrates from South
America every year.
We stayed at
a rustic old farmhouse. Our room must once have been home to Alderney
cattle but there are none left now. All the cattle on the island
were eaten by the Germans and never replaced. Moss grew between the
cobblestones in the yard and red geraniums hung from the window sills;
the salt smell of the sea was everywhere; sound of the rooster was heard
from the nearby field. There was bacon, egg, sausage tomato and mushrooms
every morning served in the newly added conservatory. And there was
cake for tea at 4.
Alderney still
has a population of less than 7000. It has a school but the children
have to go to Guernsey for a secondary education. They now have two
policeman. (One told me that he mainly gives out parking tickets.)
When I was there last, a policeman came over once a week from Guernsey
to see that everything was OK.
There are just
a few places to stay: guests houses and three small hotels. And charming
little cafes and restaurants which serve delicious food and great French
wines. The pubs were a bit noisy since England was engaged in the
football tournament and there was much cheering.
A sleepy place
it is. The library opens from 10 to 12 and again from 5 to 7.
Victoria Street has shops that open from 10 to 12 and again from
2 to 4. Wednesday is half day when everything is closed and people
can catch up on their rest. There is a distinct lack of stress.
Time and tide seem to wait. We bought a clock as a memento.
The figures are written 1 ish, 2 ish, 3 ish. Tick tock, tick tock.
Perhaps it
is just a dream after all. We will see in another fifty years.
But what if
I had dug up dead bodies in France?
....
|
RESOURCES FOR RELOCATING
TO EUROPE
|
| Jean Taquet's Insider Guide to
Living in France - Jean
Taquet's Insider Guide to Living in France -
This is not a book written by a US College drop out, this fully detailed
Ebook is written by a French jurist and associate member of the Delaware
Bar Association, specializes in civil, criminal and commercial law. He
frequently gives courses about the legal system in France and speaks regularly
at Working, Living and Investing in France conferences - If you want to
live in France - get this report! |
| Headed For France? Don't even
think of going to Paris without Adrian Leeds World Famous Paris Restaurant
Guide - Get
Adrian Leeds World Famous Paris Restaurant Guide - Parisians do it
and you can do it, too --
have a great three course meal with wine and coffee in Paris for between
$10 and $35 including tax and tip! Adrian Leeds has been scouting good-value
restaurants in Paris for more than nine years. The Leeds Good Value Guide
to Paris Restaurants is her on-going effort to bring you secrets to great
dining in all the districts of Paris. There are more than 200 good-value
restaurants in the guide -and she samples each and every one and only recommends
the best. |
| The Insider Guide To Black Paris
- The
Insider Guide To Black Paris - Now
the cultural hub for English-speaking Blacks -- Africans, African-Americans,
West Indians, Blacks from the UK and Canada -- Paris is home. When
Melinda Herron first came to Paris twenty years ago, she wanted to know
where the Black hair salons were, where you could go to listen to Black
music, where you could buy foods like sweet potatoes, corn meal and black-eyed
peas. Even though she thoroughly enjoyed Paris and all it had to offer
culturally, it was essential somehow to get a taste and feel for "back
home." So, just like many sojourners who arrive in a new city, it became
important for her to connect with other Blacks in order to transform that
feeling for community in a living reality. |
| The Writers Insider Guide To
Paris - The
Writers Insider Guide To Paris - This
guide will set you off on the right footing by bringing to your attention
all the international and French resources available to writers in Paris
which might otherwise take you many pains and hours of research to locate.
The guide also directs you toward the active community of writers currently
located in Paris: i.e. the journals, bookstores, cafes, and soirées
where you can seek support, listeners, and public outlets for your work. |
| A Survivor’s
Guide To Living In Ireland - The
Honest Report On Moving To Ireland - Don't move to Ireland
without reading this report. What are the real facts about
moving to Ireland and living in Ireland? Will you be looking out the window
of your own thatched-roof cottage enjoying the view of rolling green hills,
quiet country lanes, and neatly trimmed hedgerows? Or is that just
a overly poetic rose colored fantasy? Will you be buying a cottage in the
country side for $15,000, or are those prices long gone? If you've
been thinking about moving to Ireland then you should know the facts and
this report has the real facts, not poetic nonsense. Written by an
American who has lived in Ireland for over twenty years this report will
provide you with the proper information so you will know exactly what to
expect. He is not in real estate, he has nothing to sell you. But he can
tell you about real estate and the reality of the $15,000 thatched roof
cottage. (He did buy a house for around that price...) Can you buy
one for that price today? The author, Tom Richards wouldn't leave
Ireland on a bet. ...and you can be sure that when you read this
report that you'll learn the real facts that you are going to need before
moving to Ireland. Written without any punches pulled. If you've ever thought
about moving to Ireland, this is the report to read. |
|
Get a Job on a Luxury
Cruise Ship - Quickly & Easily! - "Discover how you can Travel
to the World's Most Exotic Places...having the Best Time of Your Life...and
Get Paid for it!" - “Now is the best time in history to get a job on a
cruise ship” - Get Paid to Travel the World Having the Best Time of Your
Life! - “It’s almost the perfect job!” - Get
a Cruise Ship Job! - Click Here |
| Careers In Yachting
- A Unique Lifestyle Career - A Special Report - How
To Get A Yachting Job - Where
to go to look for a yachting job. • Who to talk to get it. • Where to stay
while searching for employment. • How to make ends meet until you find
a job. • About and how to deal with crew agencies. • Extremely effective
means of obtaining employment outside of agencies. • The ins and outs of
interviewing. • The pros and cons of working on a charter yacht versus
a private yacht. • Crewing as a couple. • Vital tips that will put you
ahead of the pack. • Crucial mistakes not to make and much, much more. |
 |
|
eBooks
for Expats - International Relocation Reports - Offshore Investment
Reports - Reports On Offshore Real Estate, Moving Overseas, and a
wide range of subjects for those seeking to restart their lives overseas.
eBooks are a great idea. Consider
This: If, for example, you are trying to figure out how to move to Bolivia,
buy a ranch, get residency and a passport; you won't find a standard book
on how to go about accomplishing those ends at your local library.
You will here. We have hundreds of great eBooks lined up and coming
your way. Diamond mining in Africa, play the European lottery, where
the odds are ten times better than the USA, Homestead in Belize, Moving
to Thailand, Working Worldwide from a lap... our list of titles is
growing daily. |
.. |
|
..
|