Australia: Wilson's Promontory
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Australia: Wilson's Promontory
By Dawnelle Salant
Australia has no shortage of national parks providing magnificent scenery. When it comes to wildlife, however, one stands out from the rest–Wilson’s Promontory National Park. Referred to as The Prom, this national park protects 50,000 hectares of diverse landscape;  untouched beaches, swamps and rainforest.

A small fee, $9.50 per car is payable upon entry to the park in return for which we get several brochures explaining more about the area and outlining the available walks. Although we are planning to do most of our exploring on foot, our rental car is coming in handy as the park is huge and a car is needed to get to and from the various walking trails. En route to our first walk of the day, we soon encounter wildlife-huge emus, their brown and black feathers standing out against the green of the forest, graze near the side of the road.

In the distance, we can see several kangaroos hopping away into the trees.

The first trail we stop at is the Lilly Pilly Gully Circuit. The trail begins in a rainforest where enormous eucalyptus trees tower over us, making the palm trees seem like miniatures. It’s October - Spring down under, and the green forest is punctuated by flashes of colour as the flowers mark the start of the new season.

Massive boulders are scattered randomly throughout the forest and in one place, a tree has etched great cracks in the rock where it has grown through the centre.  A crimson rosella, showing off its vibrant red and blue feathers, teases us with its shrill call.  We stand still, and eventually the bird comes close enough that I think it’s going to land on my proffered arm; it doesn’t.

Our next stop is the famous Squeaky Beach,  a short walk from the main road. Beautiful and white it looks like any other beach, until my first step produces a muted screech as my running shoe tentatively digs into the dry sand. With each stride, the noise becomes louder and louder until my steps undeniably create loud squeaks.

The sand here is almost pure quartz, and as the rounded grains are rubbed together with each footstep, they produce this unique sound. Everyone is running around, giggling as their feet hit the sand. I admit I came to The Prom because of its reputation for excellent wildlife, but what we meet on the way back to the car is not exactly what I had in mind.

The path is made of the same white sand found on the beach, and is surrounded by bush on either side. Not five metres away sits one of Australia’s most famous inhabitants – a snake. My heart immediately forgets its normal rhythm and begins to hammer against my chest as if it’s trying to escape.

My whole body goes numb and I freeze on the spot. As my body fails me, I urge my mind to remember all the things I read about snake encounters before coming to this continent.

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All I can remember is not to move. Done. Not intentionally, but there’s little chance I’ll regain control of my limbs any time soon. The snake is slithering from one side of the path to the other. Thankfully, it’s completely oblivious to our presence and I’m able to watch as it moves effortlessly. It’s big, and I’m not just saying that to embellish my tale, at least 6 feet long,  its head already disappearing into the bush before its tail exits on the opposite side. Dark brown in colour it’s nearly as thick as my arm and it stands out starkly against the white sand.

The whole encounter lasts no longer than ten seconds, but it seems to take place in slow motion.  Eventually the snake disappears into the thick bush and I realize I’m going to live.  A strange sense of euphoria overwhelms me and suddenly I have the energy to bolt from the danger zone to the car.

We drive to the Visitor’s Center to see if they can tell us what sort of snake we’ve just encountered. The Ranger, from the location we give, verifies that it was most likely a copperhead. And yes, it’s a poisonous snake. “You see more of them around in Spring when the sun is out,” she tells us.

“Just be careful, stay on the paths and you’ll be fine.”  I don’t bother pointing out to her that the snake was on the path.  Obviously snake encounters to these people are more of a daily occurrence rather than a once in a lifetime experience. I know that if I don’t get back out there now, I’ll never go for another walk so we drive to Miller’s Landing Nature Walk, which is about an hours hike, with me scrutinizing the ground before I put my foot down. It may be unnecessary, but it makes me feel better.

I hear something in the bush, much too loud to be a snake, and I forget my fear as it’s replaced by curiosity. Which of Australia’s remarkable wildlife are we about to stumble upon next? My question is answered as I finally catch sight of the creature responsible for rustling the leaves. It’s an echidna. We can only see the back end of the egg laying mammal as it digs its nose into the soft earth surrounding a tree.

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Its light brown spines lay flat against its back most of the time, but as it digs more ferociously, they go rigid and stand up straight up. We try to get a bit closer but the echidna hears us. After giving us a quick glimpse of its pointy nose while it confirms that there are intruders nearby, it nestles into the ground and doesn’t move again. We continue to walk up the path and it's not long before we see several small wallabies munching away at the grass either side of us.  They know we’re there, but they don’t seem the slightest bit bothered by our presence.I don’t think I’ve ever been so close to a wallaby -they look different to the brown ones I’ve seen before.  One is standing about ten feet away from me.on his hind legs, looking right at me. is brown belly stands out against the fur on his hands and feet, which is almost black. The rest of his body is covered in gray fur, except for a spattering of white outlining his face.  He’s gorgeous.

The highlight of the walk – the world’s southernmost mangrove habitat, is what comes next.  It’s low tide and we can see the roots of the huge mangroves protruding from the sand.  About a hundred metres from the shore lays a series of round boulders, forming small islands. We walk out to them and I’m surprised to find the top of one rocky outcrop covered in grass speckled with yellow and purple flowers.  In the distance black swans swim around the round boulders that are completely surrounded by water.  It seems miles away from the rainforest walk we did only hours ago and it’s hard to believe we’re in the same national park.

As we drive back to the cabin we’re staying at just outside the park, the sun is setting and dusk is upon us, which  makes it the perfect time to see one of The Prom’s most famous inhabitants - the wombat.  The furry marsupials are nocturnal, and the best time to spot them is just before it gets dark.

Just as we are leaving the trail, I spot something in a field which  looks much like a big, gray boulder.  It’s moving though and turns out to be a wombat. It looks like a pig coverd in coarse, grey fur, but despite his huge body and tiny little legs, it moves quite fast and disappears when it hears us approach.  Disappointed, we get in the car and start driving again, but not a minute later spot another wombat grazing near the side of the road.  This time, the wind is on our side and masks the sounds of our approach.  We get close enough to have a good look at the wombat and snap some decent photos. I t’s definitely not a pretty species, but there is something adorable about its cute box nose, tiny eyes and pointy ears - it looks almost like a puffed up cat. We see two more wombats on the way home, as well as several huge kangaroos lounging just off the main road.  After the small wallabies, the kangaroos look like giants.

Camping and accommodation is available within the national park at the Tidal River settlement, but there are plenty of cabins, B&B’s and hotels within driving distance of the park’s entrance.  Prom Gate Vista Cabins www.promgatevistacabins.com.au is one of the closest to the park’s entrance.  This is where we’re staying for the next two nights, and when I crawl into bed, I’m extra grateful for the heated mattress liner.  I’m not sure if it’s the cool weather or the snake encounter, but somewhere along the way, I’ve picked up a chill.

As I snuggle into the comfortable bed, I have trouble falling asleep. I keep replaying the snake encounter over in my mind.  When we first arrived in Australia and I mentioned my snake fears to an Aussie, he laughed and said, “Mate, if you see a snake, consider yourself lucky.”  The more I think about it, the more I realize that I was lucky to see such an amazing creature in its natural habitat.  If we’d been fifteen seconds later, we would have missed the reptile all together.  And it definitely wasn’t as menacing as I’d imagined a venomous snake would be.

The next day, we pack a lunch and decide to give one of the longer trails a go. Our destination is Sealers Cove, a 20 kilometre return walk.  Although we don’t see nearly as much wildlife today, the scenery is breathtaking. The trail is practically deserted and I feel as if we have the whole world to ourselves. It’s another cool day and I’m grateful as the trail winds up and down, getting our hearts pumping.

The trail starts off in an area recently ravaged by firewhich  makes for extraordinary scenery. Most of the trees are blackened shells or stumps, and unlike other areas of the park, here we can see for miles.  Within the burnt out areas, signs of new life are already appearing and bursts of vibrant green break up the dark ground. Bright green leaves wind their way up black branches and several white flowers announce hope as they sprout from tufts of grass on the ground.

The trail leads us on to a ferny glade with leaves that  spread out over the path in some places. I can hear the chirps of unseen birds flittering in the forest canopy that is blocking out the sun. A small stream meanders through the glade, spilling onto the path and making us jump like children from stepping stones to dry ground.

Eventually we come to a boardwalk that lets us walk over Sealers Swamp.  On the side of the path we spot several skinks sunning themselves on the grass.  Their small, stumpy snake-like bodies end so abruptly that it looks as if they have had their tails chopped off. When we finally arrive at Sealers Cove, we take in the brown sand backed by huge green hills; the choppy water is foaming on the shore and there isn’t another human in sight.  Sealers Cove was actually used more by whalers and timber-cutters than sealers, and all that remains of either industry are the stubs of posts that once held up jetties, their black ends sticking out of the water, which only adds to the desolation and remoteness of the cove. 

As we drive back to the cabin, pleasantly exhausted by our long walk, we see more wildlife.  Wallabies hover near the side of the road, an echidna digs near a post and a wombat crosses the road in front of us.  Wallabies scurry off as we round a corner and the kangaroos and emus are in the same field where we spotted them the previous day.  Wilson’s Promontory has definitely lived up to its wild reputation.

The next morning we have time for one last walk before we’re off to our next destination.  In some ways, we’ve saved the best for last.  The Mount Oberon Summit walk is one of the more difficult routes, but the views are worth the extra effort.  At 558 metres, Mount Oberon is one of the highest points on the island.  The climb to the top is steady and although the scenery along the way is not as spectacular as some of our previous walks, we do manage to catch a glimpse of a black cockatoo.  From the top, we have views over much of the national park.  Sight of the coastline is the most rewarding and it’s in this direction I face as I plant myself down on a big boulder to rest.  Just off the shore, we can see the tips of several large islands, the many others  being obscured by the thick fog rolling in from the open ocean. 

As we sit and watch, the fog creeps away from the islands, and makes its way inland, covering the beach, the green fields and our view of Tidal River below.  Just as quickly, the fog all but disappears and we can see all the way from the islands to the start of the Sealers Cove walk.  With a sigh, I take one last photo, and we slowly make our way back down.  As we drive away from national park, another wallaby hops across the road in front of us - we take this as a farewell from all our wild friends in The Prom.

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