| Its light
brown spines lay flat against its back most of the time, but as it digs
more ferociously, they go rigid and stand up straight up. We try to get
a bit closer but the echidna hears us. After giving us a quick glimpse
of its pointy nose while it confirms that there are intruders nearby, it
nestles into the ground and doesn’t move again. We continue to walk up
the path and it's not long before we see several small wallabies munching
away at the grass either side of us. They know we’re there, but they
don’t seem the slightest bit bothered by our presence.I don’t think I’ve
ever been so close to a wallaby -they look different to the brown ones
I’ve seen before. One is standing about ten feet away from me.on
his hind legs, looking right at me. is brown belly stands out against the
fur on his hands and feet, which is almost black. The rest of his body
is covered in gray fur, except for a spattering of white outlining his
face. He’s gorgeous.
The highlight
of the walk – the world’s southernmost mangrove habitat, is what comes
next. It’s low tide and we can see the roots of the huge mangroves
protruding from the sand. About a hundred metres from the shore lays
a series of round boulders, forming small islands. We walk out to them
and I’m surprised to find the top of one rocky outcrop covered in grass
speckled with yellow and purple flowers. In the distance black swans
swim around the round boulders that are completely surrounded by water.
It seems miles away from the rainforest walk we did only hours ago and
it’s hard to believe we’re in the same national park.
As we drive
back to the cabin we’re staying at just outside the park, the sun is
setting and dusk is upon us, which makes it the perfect time to see
one of The Prom’s most famous inhabitants - the wombat. The furry
marsupials are nocturnal, and the best time to spot them is just before
it gets dark.
Just as we
are leaving the trail, I spot something in a field which looks much
like a big, gray boulder. It’s moving though and turns out to be
a wombat. It looks like a pig coverd in coarse, grey fur, but despite his
huge body and tiny little legs, it moves quite fast and disappears when
it hears us approach. Disappointed, we get in the car and start driving
again, but not a minute later spot another wombat grazing near the side
of the road. This time, the wind is on our side and masks the sounds
of our approach. We get close enough to have a good look at the wombat
and snap some decent photos. I t’s definitely not a pretty species, but
there is something adorable about its cute box nose, tiny eyes and pointy
ears - it looks almost like a puffed up cat. We see two more wombats on
the way home, as well as several huge kangaroos lounging just off the main
road. After the small wallabies, the kangaroos look like giants.
Camping
and accommodation is available within the national park at the
Tidal River settlement, but there are plenty of cabins, B&B’s and hotels
within driving distance of the park’s entrance. Prom Gate Vista Cabins
www.promgatevistacabins.com.au
is one of the closest to the park’s entrance. This is where we’re
staying for the next two nights, and when I crawl into bed, I’m extra grateful
for the heated mattress liner. I’m not sure if it’s the cool weather
or the snake encounter, but somewhere along the way, I’ve picked up a chill.
As I snuggle
into the comfortable bed, I have trouble falling asleep. I keep replaying
the snake encounter over in my mind. When we first arrived in Australia
and I mentioned my snake fears to an Aussie, he laughed and said, “Mate,
if you see a snake, consider yourself lucky.” The more I think
about it, the more I realize that I was lucky to see such an amazing creature
in its natural habitat. If we’d been fifteen seconds later, we would
have missed the reptile all together. And it definitely wasn’t as
menacing as I’d imagined a venomous snake would be.
The next day,
we pack a lunch and decide to give one of the longer trails a go. Our destination
is Sealers Cove, a 20 kilometre return walk. Although we don’t see
nearly as much wildlife today, the scenery is breathtaking. The trail is
practically deserted and I feel as if we have the whole world to ourselves.
It’s another cool day and I’m grateful as the trail winds up and down,
getting our hearts pumping.
The trail starts
off in an area recently ravaged by firewhich makes for extraordinary
scenery. Most of the trees are blackened shells or stumps, and unlike other
areas of the park, here we can see for miles. Within the burnt out
areas, signs of new life are already appearing and bursts of vibrant green
break up the dark ground. Bright green leaves wind their way up black branches
and
several white flowers announce hope as they sprout from tufts of grass
on the ground.
The trail leads
us on to a ferny glade with leaves that spread out over the path
in some places. I can hear the chirps of unseen birds flittering in the
forest canopy that is blocking out the sun. A small stream meanders through
the glade, spilling onto the path and making us jump like children from
stepping stones to dry ground.
Eventually
we come to a boardwalk that lets us walk over Sealers Swamp. On the
side of the path we spot several skinks sunning themselves on the grass.
Their small, stumpy snake-like bodies end so abruptly that it looks as
if they have had their tails chopped off. When we finally arrive at Sealers
Cove, we take in the brown sand backed by huge green hills; the choppy
water is foaming on the shore and there isn’t another human in sight.
Sealers Cove was actually used more by whalers and timber-cutters than
sealers, and all that remains of either industry are the stubs of posts
that once held up jetties, their black ends sticking out of the water,
which only adds to the desolation and remoteness of the cove.
As we drive
back to the cabin, pleasantly exhausted by our long walk, we see more wildlife.
Wallabies hover near the side of the road, an echidna digs near a post
and a wombat crosses the road in front of us. Wallabies scurry off
as we round a corner and the kangaroos and emus are in the same field where
we spotted them the previous day. Wilson’s Promontory has definitely
lived up to its wild reputation.
The next morning
we have time for one last walk before we’re off to our next destination.
In some ways, we’ve saved the best for last. The Mount Oberon Summit
walk is one of the more difficult routes, but the views are worth the extra
effort. At 558 metres, Mount Oberon is one of the highest points
on the island. The climb to the top is steady and although the scenery
along the way is not as spectacular as some of our previous walks, we do
manage to catch a glimpse of a black cockatoo. From the top, we have
views over much of the national park. Sight of the coastline
is the most rewarding and it’s in this direction I face as I plant myself
down on a big boulder to rest. Just off the shore, we can see the
tips of several large islands, the many others being obscured by
the thick fog rolling in from the open ocean.
As we sit and
watch, the fog creeps away from the islands, and makes its way inland,
covering the beach, the green fields and our view of Tidal River below.
Just as quickly, the fog all but disappears and we can see all the way
from the islands to the start of the Sealers Cove walk. With a sigh,
I take one last photo, and we slowly make our way back down. As we
drive away from national park, another wallaby hops across the road
in front of us - we take this as a farewell from all our wild friends in
The Prom.
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