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Our
Man In Bermuda: Part 2
By Edel
Kinsella
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July 2006
| Firstly,
I just wanted to quickly thank people for having taken the time to read
my first article, I’m glad you enjoyed it. The responses were very
flattering and I’ve tried to reply personally to as many people as I could
- as you can imagine, that wasn’t an easy task, given the vast quantity
of complimentary e-Mails I subsequently received. Well, there were
at least ten...
I wanted to
write this article as a follow up though because – in a two word summation
– Bermuda’s changed. Quite noticeably too (for expats working here)
and not necessarily for the better. I did want to caution anyone
who might be thinking of coming to work here that the situation here may
not currently be what you might imagine it to be and although my previous
article was accurate at that time, an update is definitely required.
Bermuda
International Airport Customs & Immigration
The very first
`Bermudian’ encounter you will have (endure) is Customs & Immigration
at Bermuda International Airport. You will be extremely lucky to
have a good experience at this point. You will potentially queue
for a very, very long time. Possibly hours. No, definitely
hours. Every single item in your luggage will be scrutinised.
You will be questioned ad nauseum about any electronic / medical item or
medications you possess. My own personal experience was as follows:
Leave Ireland at 4am to get into Bermuda 18 hours later. Barely able
to stand with tiredness now have to contend with none-too-pally malevolent-looking
sniffer dog. Queue for an absolute eternity. Finally, me and
my two big blue suitcases get to the point of no return. Customs
official queries every single electronic item I possess – mobile phone;
digicam; iPod; walkman as well as my CDs. `How much did this cost?’ - `I
have no idea, my digicam and iPod were gifts’, he glares at me and promptly
takes off with his colleague, tells me he’s going to look up the prices
on the Internet and leaves me there for another hour (whilst I stood outside
listening to them laughing in another room). Anyone who’s going through
this is looking around empathetically at everyone else going through the
same thing. One girl had a Customs official take out – and hold up
high in the air for all to see – her lingerie. Said official spent
an inordinate amount of time doing this and the poor girl could do nothing
but stand there. A man beside me looked over and said to me `surely
there’s no necessity for that’ (the stranger-bonding set in motion).
But enough
about her, back to me and my problems. Customs official eventually
returns to me, informing me I now `owe’ $76 to Customs, which of course
I can’t pay from that queue, I now have to traipse elsewhere to queue for
the third time that evening (prior to all this, I had been brought into
a different room to wait there to have my work permit checked by Immigration
officials). Given that I’d purchased my Walkman previously in Bermuda,
I’ve now paid double-duty on it. He went through my CDs and told
me I owed money on each one of those(!). Between the queuing; Cujo;
the aggressive and rude officials; the endless – and pointless - questioning;
the embarrassment of having everything I possess being inspected belligerently
by some stranger, I left there (hours later) feeling like some kind of
lowlife felon (I did wonder at one point if our pilot hadn’t gotten his
flight schedule mixed up and landed us in Tel Aviv – because guns aside,
the hostile atmosphere was not dissimilar). By the time I got
out of there, I was feeling more than a little bit hostile myself...
I was told
that evening that Customs have a profile of who to single out for `inspection’
at the airport. I, evidently, matched the profile on the day – but
the profile changes. I was also told that I was `lucky’ I had to
only pay $76, as others have paid double that. Yes, that’s how I
felt all right – lucky.
The Bank of
Butterfield now has a facility at the airport whereby you can pay your
customs duty via Butterfield Direct ATM, located in the HM Customs area
of the airport.
I was told
last night that one of my friends took her mother to the airport – to depart
Bermuda – a few days ago. Her mother was pulled aside and had all
of her belonging inspected (dirty laundry included). My friend said
that although the Customs officials were nice about it, it was still hugely
embarrassing (queue of people behind with no screen for privacy) and time-consuming
for her mother. When my friend asked the officials if were they searching
everyone exiting Bermuda, they said that they were not but that people
selected for inspection had had their names randomly generated via computer.
Customs confiscated items such as hair spray, etc and as my friend said,
had her mother known they were going to do that, she wouldn’t have purchased
those items in Bermuda in the first place because they’re far more expensive
than in the UK.
Landing
Permit
A landing
permit costs $27.00. A penalty of $125.00 is payable if you arrive
in Bermuda and do not have sufficient travel documents.
Agency Accommodation
There is at
least one employment agency on the island that places their staff coming
over here into temporary accommodation. It is a fairly large house
with eight bedrooms – three large and five very small, it depends on availability
on your arrival where you’ll end up. Four bathrooms are shared (one
bathroom is right next to the kitchen, those two tenants have to walk through
the kitchen each time they need to use their bathroom. Their toilet
is right beside the cooker, with a door between). One very small
kitchen with few utensils or crockery; no laundry facilities whatsoever
and no living room. TVs in each room with 3 channels and not great
reception. Telephone in kitchen is coin operated and allows local
calls only – you cannot make international calls (despite every girl in
the house being from a country other than Bermuda). Heating / AirCon
is not provided, you must buy your own and if you get AirCon installed
in your room, you will pay extra in rent. The house is located about
a fifteen minute bus ride from Hamilton ($55 per month for bus pass) but
in rush hour or in bad traffic, the journey can take well over an hour.
Should you complain to the agency (electricity blowout; no water; toilets
being blocked; bad bath plumbing; insects, etc.), you face the prospect
of being told it’s `too bad, put up with it or leave’ or just receiving
an eviction notice hand-delivered with no warning to your place of work.
Another point the agency has made – more than once - is that it is `temporary’
accommodation only, and staff are supposed to stay there short term until
they find their own accommodation.
However, the
reality of the situation is that temps are not paid enough money to be
able to afford to move out onto Bermuda’s current realty market.
Some girls have moved out obviously but the majority of their pay cheque
is then spent on their rent and utilities. So, effectively, you’re
stuck in that house, and you’d better not complain about it, if you do,
you will just be moved out of there and into a host family. This
could work to your advantage, but that’s highly unlikely from what I’ve
heard. The other alternative is to return to your home country –
which many girls do these days, and sharpish. I’ve recently been
told of a girl coming over here and she was informed she will be sharing
her bedroom with three other girls.
Host Families
Agency staff
are either put into the afore-mentioned accommodation initially or situated
with host families on the island. My personal experiences years ago
of host families have been okay actually, in retrospect (and definitely
by comparison to other girls). You’re living in someone else’s home
for the short term, so you’ve got to respect their rules. At one
point, I stayed with a lovely couple out on a farm. They treated
me very well, were really sweet to me and it was a complete novelty to
have their laid-back horse mooching around outside my window now and again.
As usual though, there are pros and cons to everything. I did hear
from one friend that her landlord would not give her a key to the house
and if she came home post-11pm (I’m just thinking about that girl now and
smiling realising that had she ever come home pre-11pm, I’d be shocked
to the core), she’d be locked out – she ended up spending at least one
night that I’m aware of sleeping in the garden. -
Article
Continued Below -
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Continued
From Above -
I’ve heard
other horror stories too, but what are your options? You’ve got the
house that the agency puts eight girls in (not even remotely affectionately
known as Amityville); you’ve got your host family situation – that’s pretty
much a hit and miss scenario or you can spend a very large chunk of your
savings on extortionate rentals whilst having zero guarantee of constant
income.
House Sits
Lots of people
do house sits for home owners on the island (in fact, I know two people
who currently `live’ from house sit to house sit. That is to say
that they do not actually rent a place or have a base in which to live
on the island). I have personally never done a house sit anywhere
in my life (being firmly convinced that knowing my luck, some catastrophe
would without a shadow of a doubt befall said residence with me in it.
Some girls though have ended up doing weeks / months at a time, in beautiful
apartments or houses with pools; gardens, etc. and having a really nice
time of it.
Rent
You can expect
to pay – at the very minimum - $1,200 per month now in Bermuda. This
would possibly cover you for a house-share only, if even. Studios
are in the region of $1,800 and up and one bedroom apartments go for about
$2,500 upwards [all predominantly exclusive of utilities]. These
are conservative figures really and as with anywhere, the closer you live
in town, the more expensive your rent will be ( www.bermuda.e-moo.com
).
Employment
I’ve never
quite gotten used to the preface `The company hiring for this position
is interested in receiving applications from Bermudians / Spouses of Bermudians
only’ prominently displayed on most positions advertised in Bermuda and
it often strikes me that if companies in almost any other country in the
world discriminated so openly, they’d find themselves in court. Imagine
- `The company hiring for this position is interested in receiving applications
from English / Spouses of English only.’ Hmm, I think not.
When you start
working in Bermuda – especially if you’re used to working in large cities,
possibly for bigger, dynamic, multinational organisations, the first thing
you’ve got to get used to is the laid back - `it’ll be done when it’s done’
attitude. I found that chronically difficult to adjust to initially.
I’m a do-er and like to get things done expeditiously (to the point of
getting on my own nerves sometimes). I remember in the beginning
almost having apoplexy with frustration though. Finally, after many
months, it dawned on me that if I didn’t just chill out, I’d end up doing
25 to life for homicide. So, chill out I did. I’m not in any
way saying that every company over here is like that but it’s certainly
been my experience and that of quite a few other people that I know working
here.
Agency Work
Should you
decide to come to Bermuda as a temporary secretary via an agency, there
are a few issues that you should be aware of. Although it will state
on your work permit that you will be employed as an Executive Secretary,
you may find yourself actually doing office management / legal audio /
corporate administration / hedge fund administration / reception work /
filing / mail delivery, etc. I’ve been speaking to a girl who said
she came over here with a bad cold and despite telling the agency she was
unable to work, they still forced her to go in. Another girl told
me that she’d flown halfway cross the world to get here on a very long
distance flight and was informed that she was working the day she arrived
in to Bermuda. Although they state that they have an `open door’
policy, should you complain about your work situation to the agency, you
will pretty much get the same response as above – if you don’t like it,
leave. Should you commit even the slightest infraction – or sometimes
do nothing at all wrong, they might just take a dislike to you for no reason
– you face being moved around from job to job, two days work here, three
days there and most definitely not doing Executive Secretarial work.
That’s the punishment meted out. There are far fewer permanent EA
/ PA roles for expats in Bermuda now, you may end up temping for much longer
than your six month contract. It’s not unheard of for girls to be
temping for a year or more, in fact, these days, it’s more the rule than
the exception. I did hear that one CEO had made a speech to his staff
about cutting work permit applications for expats by half.
There are also
far fewer expats in Bermuda now, with many more set to leave once the six-year
rule kicks in (effectively, you’ve got six years to work on the island
of Bermuda, after that you must leave if you’re an expat. It’s obviously
more complicated than that but, not a lot.). Also, if you do get
a permanent job here now, at the end of your six months temping, your prospective
employer can advertise for a Bermudian to work in the position.
They have three months to do that (should a Bermudian then want the job,
you’re back to square one).
Even after
all of this, your work permit application papers must then go to Immigration,
and since there is a five-month backlog there currently (I had an e-Mail
from a friend of mine to say her work permit renewal application has been
with Immigration now for almost six months, when she enquired about it,
she was informed that Immigration had lost her file and had absolutely
no record of her. She effectively has to start the process from scratch,
despite living in Bermuda for years), it could be a very long time indeed
before you see your first decent pay cheque. You can be `fast-tracked’
evidently, but I hear the fast tracks take a long time to process as well.
Also, it appears to be more common these days for work permit applications
to actually be denied (with no reason given).
You will discover
that the terms of your contract are one-sided in the extreme – and not
in your favour. Unless you’re willing to shut up and put up, you’re
signing up for not a great situation to find yourself in initially – ie.
your work and housing is under the control of one agency and you will be
living under veiled (or indeed overt) threats of eviction or no work at
all times. As I mentioned in my previous article, you will need to
get over this mentally - and quickly. After your six-months temping
has finished, you can then start applying for permanent positions (via
the agency only) – but good luck with that...
Customer
Service
They say that
customer service in Bermuda is at an all time low. But, to be fair,
that’s not just the case in Bermuda if you ask me. You get good sales
staff, you get bad sales or service industry staff no matter where you
go, that appears to be par for the course. One girl I know here however
was waiting with her boyfriend to be served in a restaurant. The
waiter arrived but when he discovered she was English actually said to
her `Oh, if I’d known you weren’t Bermudian, I wouldn’t have served you’.
What can you say about that really...
For what you
get in Bermuda now, there are certainly more exotic and less expensive
places about. I remember when I was trying to book a flight from
Dublin to here – one of my friends was booking a flight to Australia from
Dublin and she was getting cheaper fare quotes than I was! One of
our other friends was going to South Africa – again for less than my flight
to Bermuda. That’s always stuck with me. If I ask people generally
about their attitude to Bermuda or coming to Bermuda, they invariably answer
`too expensive’.
Mobile Phones
I have yet
to meet anyone here who is happy with their mobile phone service or service
provider. The pay as you go option just seems to require topping
up every twenty seconds, irrespective of how little you utilise your mobile...
One three second phone call seems to cost $300m. You pay for incoming
international calls too. Don’t get me started on texting - the texts
may get to the recipient, or may not. You may get a reply, or not
– or you may receive said reply months later... or. not. This
is all despite the service provider stating that you actually had the international
texting facility at time of purchase. I know one girl on the contracted
rate though who got a bill of over $700 unexpectedly (her reaction was
more than a tad amusing – sufficed to say it involved hyperventilation
and many, many high-pitched `oh my gawd’s).
Yesterday,
someone recommended Northrock 2020 to me.
Medical
Insurance
You will pay
$21.71 minimum per week in medical insurance now (unless you choose Major
Medical, which would cost you a lot more). This `insurance’ however
does not cover doctors visits; prescriptions, etc. HIP insurance
covers you for procedures / testing in the local hospital with a few outside
facilities included for lab work etc. So, in fact, it covers you
for very little and to me seems like a total and complete waste of money.
Sports and
Social Life
Bermuda is
the place to be if you’re into sports – especially water sports - diving;
snorkelling; sailing; wind surfing etc. or beach volleyball and golf, etc.
I’m not a sporty
kinda gal, never was but my social skills are remarkably well-honed now
at this stage. In fact, I’ve got a little bit of a reputation on
th’island as being somewhat of a chanteuse... Well, not really, but I have
been known to hog a microphone or two in the Hog Penny (post-at least three
alcoholic beverages).
The happy
hours; booze cruises and beach parties can be good fun but after a while,
they get a bit monotonous and you feel like you’ve done them to death.
And watch out for those boys, girls. They’ll break you heart every
time... A little bit of a playboy’s paradise is Bermuda. I
could write a book on the stories I’ve heard here. Some very funny
stories, some not so much. How tempted am I to name and shame...
There is a
kind of ATM DVD rental system that they’ve got here in Bermuda ( www.muvi.bm
). It’s really handy and easy to join. I had a few issues in
the beginning, but I think they were just teething problems, and they were
sorted out really quickly. Worth a mention I think as it’s an invaluable
service if you live outside of Hamilton – and especially during the winter
months. Their customer service is very efficient too.
Beaches
Bermuda’s
beaches are still beautiful, and I’m still in awe of them. However,
Hurricane Fabian has left it’s mark. I’ve always preferred the expanse
of Elbow Beach but in the latest opinion poll of my esteemed cronies, they
all said that they preferred Horseshoe... all of them – which I thought
was odd (or is it me that’s odd...). I’m reliably informed that Tobacco
Bay is the place to go for snorkelling. Tobacco Bay’s not my cup
of tea though and as for snorkelling, that just sounds like it might involve
exercise of some sort, and I’m definitely not up for that...
In any event,
whichever beach you go to, be careful of the jelly fishes... jelly fish.
Whatever the plural is, coz there’s definitely more than one of ‘em...
I’m fairly certain that they have snazzier, jazzier names over here but
a rose by any other name an’ all that... They’re translucent too – how
unfair is that? They should really be bright red or cerise pink or
something, give the swimmer at least a fighting chance... I’m told the
fall out from a sting ain’t pretty and is really painful and I don’t do
pain.
Traffic
Traffic in
Bermuda is much more concentrated than it was five years ago. The
scooter is probably your best option, definitely in the summer (not so
much in the winter). It’s not unusual anymore to sit on a bus (sit
on a bus if you can get a seat that is) for well over an hour. This
is primarily in rush hour of course but rush hour appears to have inexplicably
extended to rush-three-hour (as in anywhere from 6.30 am to 9.30 am and
4.30pm to 7.30pm). There is quite an amount of construction going
on in Bermuda now of course and obviously, more (and larger) trucks on
the island as a result.
Overall
I’ve always
said that some of the nicest people I’ve ever met are Bermudians.
The kids are brought up to be really polite. Men / boys / kids generally
still get up and offer their seats to girls / women on public transport.
The helpful manner is still there, if possibly less evident. Unfortunately
now though, the overall attitude of Bermudians towards expat workers has
definitely changed. The hostility is absolutely more pronounced,
more palpable. Not sure how or why that’s happened but it has happened
and a lot of people remark on it. There is a radio station here that
has actually had people calling in to say that they thought the `guest
workers’ on the island are responsible for the lack of affordable accommodation.
Some things that you’ll hear actually are quite blatantly offensive.
I spoke to
a guy yesterday who told me that last week he’d been standing at an ATM
here in Hamilton. There was a white guy there and a black (English)
couple behind him. He said that at the point he’d arrived at the
machine, the girl was saying to the white guy `... that’s no reason for
you to call me a nig**r’. The guy I was speaking to said that he
was so shocked, he stopped with his ATM card mid-air...
Both my articles
on Bermuda have been based on my own experiences – what I’ve done, what
I’ve seen and heard around the island, etc. This article is aimed
mainly at girls planning to work in Bermuda on a temporary basis initially.
Clearly, those who come to work in Bermuda on a permanent basis straight
off will have more varied experiences.
I’ve been asked
so many times since my last article if I would recommend Bermuda as a place
to come and work. I used to always say `yes’, without hesitation.
My answer now
would though would have to be `no’.
.
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