On our way to our overnight stop, we detour to The Balconies. We have incredible views of the valley and mountains here, and the outcropping of rocks makes it obvious where the area’s name comes from.  We spend that night in Hall’s Gap, the tiny town that services the Grampians.  The little town is nestled in the foothills of the mountains, and the treetops are white with cockatoos. Kangaroos roam the fields just out of the town centre and crimson rosellas, spectacularly red and green, dart in and out of the branches.  It’s a cozy little town where you feel at one with nature.

First thing next morning we’re up and at it again. A two hour climb takes us to the Pinnacle.  Along the way, we’re treated to more of the Grampians’ breathtaking scenery.  Huge boulders form seats to rest upon, and every once in a while we come to a clearing that allows us to see the mountains in the distance.  Jen points out the dark brown water in the streams which everyone has been staring at with disgust.  “It’s not dirty,” she tells us. “The tea trees in the area stain the water.”  It does look an awful lot like a cup of strong tea, now that she mentions it.

Before we reach the summit, we scramble up a formation known as Silent Street. It’s like a small, narrow canyon, meandering upwards.  In some places, the walls of the canyon are so close that I can reach out and touch both sides at once.  After we finally make our way out, we’re rewarded with the most spectacular views of the Grampians that we have seen yet.

A lake shimmers in the distance and the flat ground spreading out below us is riddled with towns and fields.  We’re standing on a platform on a precipice overlooking the valley.  Sheer cliffs drop off right below us and I lose my stomach when I look down.  I feel like I’m on top of the world.  After climbing down, we pay a visit to the cultural centre where we watch “Aboriginal Dreamtime”, an award winning film about the formation of the Grampians.

The Great Ocean Road

And now for the part of the trip that I’ve been waiting for – as much as I love the Grampians, I have heard so many wonderful things about the Great Ocean Road, billed as one of the world’s most stunning coastal drives,  that I can’t wait to set my eyes on it.  We drive for a few hours until we finally see the ocean. We spend the rest of the day driving along the Great Ocean Road, pulling over what seems like every five minutes to view the masterpieces set along the coastline.

Our first stop is the Bay of Islands.  Small, rugged upright islands are dotted amongst the turquoise blue water here.  The islands are formed from light brown rock, and the white waves crashing into them only seems to intensify the color of the water. Our next photo stop is the Arch.  A huge semicircle of rock lays several hundred meters off shore, forming, well, a perfect arch.  A gap exists between the arch and the sheer cliff faces that line the beach here.  At one point, the arch was connected to the mainland. 

Our last stop is the famous Twelve Apostles, just in time for sunset.  Here, the beach stretches on for miles in either direction, backed by huge limestone cliffs.  Just out from shore, several huge stacks of rock, some nearly as tall as the cliffs, stand proud in the water. Originally, there were seventeen Apostles, but erosion has caused several of them to crumble into mounds of rock.  Depending on where you stand, you can usually see seven of the Apostles.  But numbers really don’t matter here; as the setting sun turns the Apostles pink, and the waves lap at the shore, I’m looking at one of the most breathtaking sights on Earth.  It’s easy to see why they were given such a reverential name.

The next morning we explore the area surrounding the Twelve Apostles in greater depth.  We climb down Gibson Steps to Gibson Beach and from here we have a different perspective looking up at the dramatic limestone cliffs. 

A visit to Loch Ard Gorge is next, and the rainy day perfectly suits the story we’re told about the gorge and its cave.  In 1878, the Loch Ard, a ship that had travelled all the way from England, wrecked just off the coast here.  Only two people survived, Eva Carmichael and Tom Pearce.  They both made it to the safety of the gorge where they huddled in the damp cave overnight.

We tramp our way into the cold, wet cave named after Eva and I can hardly imagine spending more than a few minutes there, never mind an entire night.  But despite the tragedy associated with the area, the gorge is beautiful.  Two limestone cliffs reach out towards the sea and almost meet each other, leaving only a small entrance to the gorge. 

On the way back to the main road we stop at the Twelve Apostles for a last look.  But I decide to get an even better look at the spectacular formation – from the air. Great Ocean Road Helicopters do fifteen minute flights over the Twelve Apostles and surrounding area.  It sounds like a short amount of time, but the views you get from up there are unparalleled. 

The pilot provides a commentary as we lift off and take our place over the limestone cliffs. He points out all of the Apostles – some that you can’t see from the lookout area, and those that we photographed endlessly last night at sunset.  From here I can see how jagged the coastline is; the cliffs jut in and out of the water at angles of almost 90 degrees. The Apostles that are still standing look like blobs of clay thrown by a naughty child. From up here they seem randomly placed, where as looking at them from the ground, they seem to fit in line perfectly. Their layers are more visible from the air as well; I can see the dark base rising up to a lighter peak.
 

After we’ve finally said goodbye to the Twelve Apostles, it’s back on the road. Our next stop takes us away from the ocean and into the rainforest. Here, we’re treated to a new perspective on the rainforest, instead of walking along the forest floor; we’re going to walk along the canopy.  The Otway Fly Tree Top Walk is like no other rainforest experience.

The walk starts off low enough as we make our way through the forest. We’re in a cool temperate rainforest only 500 metres above sea level, and even though it’s almost summer, it’s quite cool. The area gets the highest rainfall in the state of Victoria, so it’s no surprise that it’s raining. The elevated walkway is 600 metres long and rises to a maximum of 25 metres above the forest floor; if you’re scared of heights, this probably isn’t the place for you. 

The climb starts gradually and I marvel at the view I have of the Mountain Ash trees that dominate the area.The world’s tallest flowering plant, the trees tower even above the walkway.  As we walk along, we pass Soft Tree Ferns that date back to 150 million years ago.  Birds flutter in and out of the trees, and I catch a splash of red, as a parrot darts in front of us.

We climb to the top of the spiral tower, and from the 47 metre lookout point, we have a spectacular, if not dizzying view.  As we move, some of the walkways sway in time with the treetops and even though the signs say this is normal, I find myself grasping the railing tightly.  ack on the ground following the path to the visitor’s centre, Jen is waiting for us.  She points to the soft ground where two rare Otway Black Snails feed. Their shells are pure black and their slimy heads seem almost blue in comparison.

Afterwards, we stop for lunch in Apollo Bay and a storm churns the ocean, making it seem almost violent. As we drive along the coast, I’m impressed by both the ocean’s beauty and its strength. The Great Ocean Road is one place you definitely want to take a tour.  Driving yourself along the spectacular coastline would be redundant; if you’re paying attention to the road, you’re going to miss all the scenery. Let someone else do the driving so you can concentrate on the important things. 

Our trip is nearly over, but we have one more exciting stop to make for some wildlife viewing. Kennet River Caravan Park seems like any other vacation spot, but the second we step off the bus we’re greeted by heaps of birds. Crimson Rosellas, parrots and cockatoos are everywhere. The treetops are almost red with birds. 

As we all gather to photograph a tree that is brimming with colorful parrots, I feel something sharp on my head. I scream, and the bird that has decided to land on my head is scared off.  But some of the others are not so easily startled and birds are soon landing on everyone’s heads, shoulders and arms. They’re wild, but obviously used to visitors. We walk around the park, followed by swarms of birds, in search of one of Australia’s most unique creatures – the koala. After a few short minutes, Jen finds one sleeping in a tree only metres above our heads. It must hear us excitedly snapping photo after photo, because it slowly raises its head and opens its eyes. After a brief glance, it decides we’re not worthy enough to interrupt its 21 hours of daily sleep, and soon returns to slumber.  We spot five more koalas in the tree tops, all curled up in impossible positions in the crooks of the trees.  ne holds a baby to its belly as it sleeps away the day. 

All too soon, the trip is over and we’re heading into Melbourne for a taste of the city.

Return To Index