Escape to Cape Cod
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Escape to Cape Cod? Leaving Suburbia for a Life By The Sea
By Dale James
..June 2006
es•cape     ( -sk p )
v. es•caped, es•cap•ing, es•capes
1. To break loose from confinement; get free. 

Did you ever daydream about leaving it all behind and taking off for the Canadian wilderness or the tropical South Pacific?  Maybe living on a houseboat on the Seine (that’s in Paris!), or setting up residence in a castle in Scotland. We all dream from time to time of simplifying our lives and doing more of what we actually like to do.  Did you know that most people work hard all year long just to reap the rewards of 2-3 weeks (if they are lucky!) in an idyllic location?  Well, the process of escaping one’s lifestyle does not necessarily mean passports, visas, airline tickets and currency changes.  And even if you haven’t yet qualified for that perfect job: retirement, you still can escape to a locale that will make your work-a-day much more agreeable and enjoyable.

How my daydream became reality…..

My escape was defined by two factors:- 1) what new profession could I perfect within 2 weeks and then immediately get offered a job, and 2) where could I go that would be surrounded by the sea and nature, but within a couple hours drive to Boston where my son was in college.  After 25 years working as a designer of museum exhibits, retail displays, signage programs, and interactive visitor centers, I decided I just wanted to paint; for myself.  No more design committees, revisions and final outcomes that looked nothing like my original concepts. What I needed was a new occupation that made use of the skills I had cultivated for most of my life.  An occupation that required good people skills, an understanding of what folks want even when they aren’t sure themselves, and a flare for creating and using space.  Those skills, as a contract designer, I had perfected.  Add the fact that I was accustomed to working on a commission basis, the sum of all the parts became clear - Real Estate!  I could take a weekend grand-slam-course, wait 3 days (actually study my brains out for 3 days), and take a gruelling board exam.  All of that I proudly accomplished on my first go-round!  I had succeeded in creating a new profession. Factor 1) - complete.

As for factor 2), location by the sea, I had to keep in mind that even with my great new title of Real Estate Agent I still needed to land a job.  I did my homework, consulted the web, and discovered that Barnstable County had the highest real estate growth in the state of Massachusetts.  The commute to downtown Boston was under 2 hours, and the best part - Barnstable County defines what is better known as Cape Cod!! 

The fortunes of Cape Cod have always been linked to the sea.  For centuries fishermen in search of a livelihood, explorers in search of new worlds, and pilgrims of one sort or another in search of a new life - down to the beach-bound tourists of today - all have turned to the waters around this narrow peninsula arcing into the Atlantic to fulfill their needs and ambitions.  I too would join the pilgrimage in search of a new life!

Take route 3 south….

My escape was to be from the suburbs of Boston Massachusetts, to Cape Cod.  Not a very big “escape” you might say?  Well, save that opinion until you finish reading my tale.  First of all, Cape Cod is essentially an island connected to the mainland by two bridges.  So I escaped to an island.  Do you disagree?  Now you could argue that Long Island (that’s part of New York) is an island, with bridges, but not a place you would want to escape to.  But for matter of discussion, let’s think of an island as a less developed, more out of the way place surrounded (somewhat) by water.  At least less confining: free.

Speaking of Real Estate: Capes, ½ Capes, ¾ Capes and Warts……

Originally settled by the Wampanoag tribe the first homes on Cape Cod were wigwams.  The first English to settle these parts copied the natives and built homes from tree branches, bark, grasses, cornstalks and hides.  Obviously none of these would be left to sell when I arrived!  But eventually the European settlers cut down the forests for farmland and had the lumber to build more traditional framed homes but with a whole “new world” look all their own.  This creative innovation led to two popular styles: the Saltbox and the Cape Cod cottage.  These styles were to be then copied all over the country, with the most original and charming ones still located on Cape Cod.

The ½ Cape was asymmetrical in design.  It had a front door towards the corner of the building, and two identical windows across the front.  As the family grew, an addition with one more identical window created a ¾ Cape.  Or with the addition of two identical windows one got a symmetrical design called a full Cape.  Oh, and the little additions built into the sides came to be called warts!

The saltbox house was more of a renovation style then a building style.  Just like a ½ Cape, it could be enlarged to accommodate a growing family, the classic two storey Colonial was altered by adding a single storey addition to the back creating a long sloping roof reminiscent of the boxes that stored the kitchen salt.  These innovative spaces were a design/planner’s dream!

And what’s more, a colony for artists……

Lift up your left arm parallel to the floor.  Bend your elbow to make an “L”.  Now bend your wrist with your fingers pointing back at your head.  You have now illustrated Cape Cod.  Look at the map.  Around your elbow is Chatham, kind of the turning point on the Cape.  From your elbow up your forearm is called the Outer Cape and it consists of some charming, funky, historical places like Brewster, Orleans, Eastham, Wellfleet and Truro.  And the outermost of the outermost, Provincetown.  Artists have been drawn to Provincetown from the early part of the 20th century.  Some say it was the light.  Others insist it’s because, like Key West, Provincetown is at the “end of the earth”. 

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Provincetown and North Truro are also home to the Cape Cod National Seashore, established through legislation signed by President Kennedy in 1961.  This area of totally natural beauty has attracted the likes of Henry David Thoreau who wrote, "A man may stand there and put all America behind him."  You can sit on the same beach all day and watch the sun both rise and set over the sea.  Then there are the dwindling number of dune shacks, as historical and difficult to acquire as real estate on Beacon Hill, where the likes of Eugene O’Neil, Jack Kerouac, Tennessee Williams, and Jackson Pollack found creative inspiration. No matter what, Cape Cod was feeling more and more like the escape I was looking for.

So I settle in Harwich…..

Of Cape Cod’s 396 square miles, bigger then St. Maarten/St. Martin yet smaller then Martinique, I ended up in Harwich (inside your elbow).  This put me close to the Outer Cape, but still in a year-round community (most of the Outer Cape is made up of seasonal residents).  I landed my first job right away as a new Real Estate agent.  This is not as much of a feat as it sounds since you don’t get paid unless you make a sale. And I knew no one in Harwich.  For that matter, I didn’t know anyone who lived on Cape Cod!

Through sheer determination I found a tiny, adorable, affordable apartment in an historical saltbox (complete with copper sink!), met a wonderful gal who had been selling real estate on Cape Cod for over 10 years, and within 5 months we had our own boutique style office together!  The new office went very well, combining my business partner’s skills as a realtor and my design and marketing background.  I wish I could say as much for that adorable, affordable apartment which was located just below the world’s most insane landlady.  So now that I was a “professional realtor”, it shouldn’t be so hard for me to find my own piece of Cape Cod, right?  Well, unfortunately the market was great for making sales, but buying was a bit out of my reach.  I needed to get clever if I was to stay on this island in the bay of Boston.

A home of my own…..

Cape Cod, as I learned, has two forms of residence.  The first is considered year-round and is like any typical place that you live in all the time.  The second form of residence is considered seasonal.  Seasonal residences are available for occupancy from early spring to late fall – sometime in April or the beginning of May till the end of October.  It doesn’t matter how weather-worthy the structure is, it’s all based on zoning.  After October 31st your water is shut off.

Obviously seasonal “cottages” are going to cost less then sanctioned year-round residences, so that was where I began to search.  I found just the place in a funky colony named Pinewood Village.  Now this property had been on the market for quite some time. t was over priced for a seasonal cottage, but cheaper than any “proper” house this side of the bridge (yes, my “island” has bridges).  o with a helpful pull from my business partner with the friendly banker, I became the proud new owner of Sunny Pines: an 849 sq. ft. unheated, 2 room cottage with sleeping loft! 
Sunny Pines
To give you a little more background about my “find”, Sunny Pines was part of  Pinewood Village, a group of 16 cottages nestled on 2 ½ acres of shady land in West Harwich.  Originally built in the late 1940s, the white clapboard cottages with dark green shutters were the vacation retreat for many summer visitors.  In 1978 a Master Deed was recorded and a condominium form of ownership established. Over the past 26 years the cottages in Pinewood Village have gone through a number of owners and renovations, but still retain the charm of times goneby.

Sunny Pines was one of the most charming cottages in the group with three cathedral ceilings and a 5 ft. sky light. The first thing I added was a gas heat stove that would accommodate the whole cottage.  Then I had fun! I faux painted the walls in an almost cloud-like finish, rendered a Cape Cod garden mural in the kitchen bay, and provided a faux brick chimney behind the newly installed Jotul heat stove.

As well as being only a mile stroll to Nantucket Sound beaches, the cottage was a five-minute walk up the road to one of the hidden gems of Cape Cod - a 200+ acre conservation area where fresh and saltwater meet, reflecting the beauty of uplands meeting the sea.  According to records, John Bell bought this land in 1692 from a Yarmouth Indian called Little Robin and Harwich purchased it in 1965 for the purpose of conservation.  There are well-defined trails that lead you to breathtaking views of marshland, bogs, the river and the reservoirs.  This was truly an escape.

Documents needed….

Small towns are not unlike small countries.  If your documents aren’t in order, your way of life is in jeopardy.  I had a home.  I even had heat.  But I had no documentation that I could live there year-round!  The end of October was approaching fast and unless I wanted to haul water, I needed to get started on the beaurocracy.  Well, it ended up taking 3 years and some humorous tactics (one instance when I ran out of the shower wearing no more then a towel and shower cap, pleading with the water department to not shut me off) and two trips to the planning board, but I won!  I was finally a legal resident of the township of Harwich on the (almost) island of Cape Cod!

From there to here….

Would the escape to Cape Cod seem more daring if it was from London or Sydney?  Do we always have to go half way around the world to find our special place of free expression?  My life journey has now taken me to a real island in the Caribbean Sea.  Would I have made this move if I hadn’t first escaped to Cape Cod?  I will never know, just like I (happily) don’t know where I will end up next.  I hope you agree now, after my tale of escape, that it doesn’t matter how far you go.  The key is to define your confinement and then, get free.
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Dale now is living and working in St. Maarten/St. Martin, a dual culture island in the West Indies.
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