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Escape
to Cape Cod? Leaving Suburbia for a Life By The Sea
By Dale
James
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..June
2006
es•cape
( -sk p )
v. es•caped,
es•cap•ing, es•capes
1. To break
loose from confinement; get free.
Did you ever
daydream about leaving it all behind and taking off for the Canadian wilderness
or the tropical South Pacific? Maybe living on a houseboat on the
Seine (that’s in Paris!), or setting up residence in a castle in Scotland.
We all dream from time to time of simplifying our lives and doing more
of what we actually like to do. Did you know that most people work
hard all year long just to reap the rewards of 2-3 weeks (if they are lucky!)
in an idyllic location? Well, the process of escaping one’s lifestyle
does not necessarily mean passports, visas, airline tickets and currency
changes. And even if you haven’t yet qualified for that perfect job:
retirement, you still can escape to a locale that will make your work-a-day
much more agreeable and enjoyable.
How my daydream
became reality…..
My escape was
defined by two factors:- 1) what new profession could I perfect within
2 weeks and then immediately get offered a job, and 2) where could I go
that would be surrounded by the sea and nature, but within a couple hours
drive to Boston where my son was in college. After 25 years working
as a designer of museum exhibits, retail displays, signage programs, and
interactive visitor centers, I decided I just wanted to paint; for myself.
No more design committees, revisions and final outcomes that looked nothing
like my original concepts. What I needed was a new occupation that made
use of the skills I had cultivated for most of my life. An occupation
that required good people skills, an understanding of what folks want even
when they aren’t sure themselves, and a flare for creating and using space.
Those skills, as a contract designer, I had perfected. Add the fact
that I was accustomed to working on a commission basis, the sum of all
the parts became clear - Real Estate! I could take a weekend grand-slam-course,
wait 3 days (actually study my brains out for 3 days), and take a gruelling
board exam. All of that I proudly accomplished on my first go-round!
I had succeeded in creating a new profession. Factor 1) - complete.
As for factor
2), location by the sea, I had to keep in mind that even with my great
new title of Real Estate Agent I still needed to land a job. I did
my homework, consulted the web, and discovered that Barnstable County had
the highest real estate growth in the state of Massachusetts. The
commute to downtown Boston was under 2 hours, and the best part - Barnstable
County defines what is better known as Cape Cod!!
The fortunes
of Cape Cod have always been linked to the sea. For centuries fishermen
in search of a livelihood, explorers in search of new worlds, and pilgrims
of one sort or another in search of a new life - down to the beach-bound
tourists of today - all have turned to the waters around this narrow peninsula
arcing into the Atlantic to fulfill their needs and ambitions. I
too would join the pilgrimage in search of a new life!
Take route
3 south….
My escape was
to be from the suburbs of Boston Massachusetts, to Cape Cod. Not
a very big “escape” you might say? Well, save that opinion until
you finish reading my tale. First of all, Cape Cod is essentially
an island connected to the mainland by two bridges. So I escaped
to an island. Do you disagree? Now you could argue that Long
Island (that’s part of New York) is an island, with bridges, but not a
place you would want to escape to. But for matter of discussion,
let’s think of an island as a less developed, more out of the way place
surrounded (somewhat) by water. At least less confining: free.
Speaking of
Real Estate: Capes, ½ Capes, ¾ Capes and Warts……
Originally
settled by the Wampanoag tribe the first homes on Cape Cod were wigwams.
The first English to settle these parts copied the natives and built homes
from tree branches, bark, grasses, cornstalks and hides. Obviously
none of these would be left to sell when I arrived! But eventually
the European settlers cut down the forests for farmland and had the lumber
to build more traditional framed homes but with a whole “new world” look
all their own. This creative innovation led to two popular styles:
the Saltbox and the Cape Cod cottage. These styles were to be then
copied all over the country, with the most original and charming ones still
located on Cape Cod.
The ½
Cape was asymmetrical in design. It had a front door towards the
corner of the building, and two identical windows across the front.
As the family grew, an addition with one more identical window created
a ¾ Cape. Or with the addition of two identical windows one
got a symmetrical design called a full Cape. Oh, and the little additions
built into the sides came to be called warts!
The saltbox
house was more of a renovation style then a building style. Just
like a ½ Cape, it could be enlarged to accommodate a growing family,
the classic two storey Colonial was altered by adding a single storey addition
to the back creating a long sloping roof reminiscent of the boxes that
stored the kitchen salt. These innovative spaces were a design/planner’s
dream!
And what’s
more, a colony for artists……
Lift up your
left arm parallel to the floor. Bend your elbow to make an “L”.
Now bend your wrist with your fingers pointing back at your head.
You have now illustrated Cape Cod. Look at the map. Around
your elbow is Chatham, kind of the turning point on the Cape. From
your elbow up your forearm is called the Outer Cape and it consists of
some charming, funky, historical places like Brewster, Orleans, Eastham,
Wellfleet and Truro. And the outermost of the outermost, Provincetown.
Artists have been drawn to Provincetown from the early part of the 20th
century. Some say it was the light. Others insist it’s because,
like Key West, Provincetown is at the “end of the earth”.
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Article Continued Below - |
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Article
Continued From Above -
Provincetown
and North Truro are also home to the Cape Cod National Seashore, established
through legislation signed by President Kennedy in 1961. This area
of totally natural beauty has attracted the likes of Henry David Thoreau
who wrote, "A man may stand there and put all America behind him."
You can sit on the same beach all day and watch the sun both rise and set
over the sea. Then there are the dwindling number of dune shacks,
as historical and difficult to acquire as real estate on Beacon Hill, where
the likes of Eugene O’Neil, Jack Kerouac, Tennessee Williams, and Jackson
Pollack found creative inspiration. No matter what, Cape Cod was feeling
more and more like the escape I was looking for.
So I settle
in Harwich…..
Of Cape Cod’s
396 square miles, bigger then St. Maarten/St. Martin yet smaller then Martinique,
I ended up in Harwich (inside your elbow). This put me close to the
Outer Cape, but still in a year-round community (most of the Outer Cape
is made up of seasonal residents). I landed my first job right away
as a new Real Estate agent. This is not as much of a feat as it sounds
since you don’t get paid unless you make a sale. And I knew no one in Harwich.
For that matter, I didn’t know anyone who lived on Cape Cod!
Through sheer
determination I found a tiny, adorable, affordable apartment in an historical
saltbox (complete with copper sink!), met a wonderful gal who had been
selling real estate on Cape Cod for over 10 years, and within 5 months
we had our own boutique style office together! The new office went
very well, combining my business partner’s skills as a realtor and my design
and marketing background. I wish I could say as much for that adorable,
affordable apartment which was located just below the world’s most insane
landlady. So now that I was a “professional realtor”, it shouldn’t
be so hard for me to find my own piece of Cape Cod, right? Well,
unfortunately the market was great for making sales, but buying was a bit
out of my reach. I needed to get clever if I was to stay on this
island in the bay of Boston.
A home of my
own…..
Cape Cod, as
I learned, has two forms of residence. The first is considered year-round
and is like any typical place that you live in all the time. The
second form of residence is considered seasonal. Seasonal residences
are available for occupancy from early spring to late fall – sometime in
April or the beginning of May till the end of October. It doesn’t
matter how weather-worthy the structure is, it’s all based on zoning.
After October 31st your water is shut off.
Obviously seasonal
“cottages” are going to cost less then sanctioned year-round residences,
so that was where I began to search. I found just the place in a
funky colony named Pinewood Village. Now this property had been on
the market for quite some time. t was over priced for a seasonal cottage,
but cheaper than any “proper” house this side of the bridge (yes, my “island”
has bridges). o with a helpful pull from my business partner with
the friendly banker, I became the proud new owner of Sunny Pines: an 849
sq. ft. unheated, 2 room cottage with sleeping loft!
Sunny Pines
To
give you a little more background about my “find”, Sunny Pines was part
of Pinewood Village, a group of 16 cottages nestled on 2 ½
acres of shady land in West Harwich. Originally built in the late
1940s, the white clapboard cottages with dark green shutters were the vacation
retreat for many summer visitors. In 1978 a Master Deed was recorded
and a condominium form of ownership established. Over the past 26 years
the cottages in Pinewood Village have gone through a number of owners and
renovations, but still retain the charm of times goneby.
Sunny Pines
was one of the most charming cottages in the group with three cathedral
ceilings and a 5 ft. sky light. The first thing I added was a gas heat
stove that would accommodate the whole cottage. Then I had fun! I
faux painted the walls in an almost cloud-like finish, rendered a Cape
Cod garden mural in the kitchen bay, and provided a faux brick chimney
behind the newly installed Jotul heat stove.
As well as
being only a mile stroll to Nantucket Sound beaches, the cottage was a
five-minute walk up the road to one of the hidden gems of Cape Cod - a
200+ acre conservation area where fresh and saltwater meet, reflecting
the beauty of uplands meeting the sea. According to records, John
Bell bought this land in 1692 from a Yarmouth Indian called Little Robin
and Harwich purchased it in 1965 for the purpose of conservation.
There are well-defined trails that lead you to breathtaking views of marshland,
bogs, the river and the reservoirs. This was truly an escape.
Documents needed….
Small towns
are not unlike small countries. If your documents aren’t in order,
your way of life is in jeopardy. I had a home. I even had heat.
But I had no documentation that I could live there year-round! The
end of October was approaching fast and unless I wanted to haul water,
I needed to get started on the beaurocracy. Well, it ended up taking
3 years and some humorous tactics (one instance when I ran out of the shower
wearing no more then a towel and shower cap, pleading with the water department
to not shut me off) and two trips to the planning board, but I won!
I was finally a legal resident of the township of Harwich on the (almost)
island of Cape Cod!
From there
to here….
Would the escape
to Cape Cod seem more daring if it was from London or Sydney? Do
we always have to go half way around the world to find our special place
of free expression? My life journey has now taken me to a real island
in the Caribbean Sea. Would I have made this move if I hadn’t first
escaped to Cape Cod? I will never know, just like I (happily) don’t
know where I will end up next. I hope you agree now, after my tale
of escape, that it doesn’t matter how far you go. The key is to define
your confinement and then, get free.
.
| Dale now is
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the West Indies. |
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