Ten percent of the world’s ‘liquid gold’, as it is known locally, comes from this area.  It not only provides the essential ingredient for the region’s gastronomy, but now also supports a newly booming ecological trend for olive oil based soaps and cosmetics. 

The province alternates between gentle olive grove country and the stunning mountain ranges of the Sierra de Cazorla, Spain´s largest natural park.  With its diverse wildlife and flora, it is one of the most beautiful areas of all Andalucia. Twisting leafy roads abound in the park providing a natural habitat for species near to extinction. I saw vultures, golden eagles and recently re-introduced lammergeyer.  This extraordinary park needs several days to enjoy it; I’m already planning a return trip in the autumn to see the changing colours of the trees.  My visit in the summer of 2005 saw many of its famous waterfalls dried up, with one of the worst droughts since Spanish records began.  Now April 2006, after a winter of substantial rain, I am hoping the falls will have returned to their former glory. 

This years olive harvest is said to be 30% down, a result of the drought and then a cold spell in early 2005 which damaged many of the reported 60 million trees, which of course has resulted in a huge increase in the price of the oil.  My hope is that the rains of this winter will reverse that and there will be a bumper crop for all - me and my five trees included!

A huge area comprising ninety-seven towns, Jaén province sits on the top of its more famous sisters, the provinces of Cordoba and Granada, and is the gateway into Andalucia from the north.  The  main N-IV from Madrid twists and winds through Desfiladero de Despeñaperros pass, in the Sierra Morena, and into Jaén.  Madrid’s international airport is a three and a half hour drive away, through the vast, flat area of Castilla La Mancha.

This huge and remote area offers an escape from the pressures of modern life.  Property prices have risen by 15-20% over the last few years but are still far lower than those of their southern neighbours – Cordoba, Granada and Malaga. 

Some of the houses are still without official paperwork but contrary to popular illusion this is not always a reason to ignore them. The government are being lenient in some instances to try and get all houses into the system. It could still take years, and although we sometimes hear a tale of woe from would-be buyers, we don’t have the statistics to show the other side of the story.

British property agents and listers have crept steadily upwards from the coast over recent years and now small enclaves of Brits can be found within this, the last province of Andalucia to have been taken-over by leavers of the ‘rat race’.  Townhouses are still to be found, ranging from  30’000 Euros to 200’000 Euros for a house with land, usually olive, almond and fig trees, and more often than not in need of renovation.

Leaving the Costa’s and their gentle climate behind, temperatures in the area here can reach the late 30C deg. in summer and drop to zero in the winter months. Without the sea breezes the heat can  be oppressive but at least it’s not humid.

For a fascinating visit, stay at the Parador de Santa Catalina in Jaén city, one of the most popular of Spain’s 85 state-owned hotels.  Charles de Gaulle is said to have written his memoirs here, wandering the gardens for inspiration.  Finished in 1965, The Parador was built on the site of an Arabic fortress, and plays host to awesomely vaulted ceilings, inch thick doors and knights in not so shiny armour.  Enjoy a meditative coffee, or sample the local ‘ojo blanco’ (cold garlic soup), ‘pipirrana’ (vegetable salad) or local game in their restaurant in the clouds (when there are any).

The castle, next door, is an interesting visit with almost 360 degrees of magnificent views, combined with a newly added visitors’ centre and excavation works still in process.  Napoleonic troops were based here in the early nineteen hundreds, only to be re-taken by the Spanish a few years later. 

The city of Jaén city sprawls around the base of a pine sloped hill and a magnificent 16th century cathedral draws the eye.  Rest on stone weathered benches on the cathedral plaza under monstrous magnolia trees.   There are many smaller monuments, well deserving of a maze-like stroll around the cobbled narrow streets with their profusion of flowers tumbling through wrought-iron railings.   Pick  up a booklet from the tourist information centre near the cathedral and it will take you on a walking tour around the historical quarter of the old town.

The Arab baths are one of Europe’s finest surviving examples, and Spain’s biggest Islamic bathhouses.   They were once buried, the Renaissance Palacio Villadompardo built on top. Today the palace is a museum and the baths underneath, with their star shaped roof lights, won a gold medal for the restoration project.

A visit not to be missed are the Renaiassance cities of Baeza and Úbeda less than an hour from the city of Jaén, which boast the finest buildings of this era in Andalucia.   The honey-coloured mansions and churches surround a statue of their architect Andrés de Vandelvira, who also worked on Jaén cathedral.

Úbeda too, has a parador, not so stunning a location as that in Jaen, but nevertheless a 16th century Renaissance Palace with a beautiful inner courtyard restaurant for a coffee stop, or for lunch.  Sample the peppers stuffed with partridge or stewed kid with pine seeds for a gastronomic buzz.

For an alternative to the coastal towns and an experience of really rural Spain, head inland to  Andalucia, where the scenery and the olive trees, are endless.