A toehold in sun-kissed, seductive Italy for less than $100,000
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A toehold in sun-kissed, seductive Italy for less than $100,000
By By Steenie Harvey
May  2006
Steenie Harvey is the Euro-Roving Editor for International Living, a 25-year-old business that publishes several free e-letters, a monthly print newsletter, and a growing line of books and reports, all detailing the best places in the world for Americans to live, travel, and invest.
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Romantic cities. Timeless hill towns. Snowy mountains, idyllic islands, and a rivetingly beautiful coastline—most people realize Italy is a vacationer’s paradise, but owning or renting a home here can cost far less than you probably imagine. 

There’s some truth in the notion that Italy tends to appeal to discerning types who are more interested in heritage than the kind of uncomplicated beach holidays that southern Spain and Portugal specialize in. That’s not surprising. After all, Italy is said to hold more than half the world’s cultural riches within its borders. 

Wherever you choose to live—or visit—you’ll be surrounded by so many good things, you’ll find it hard to imagine how you’ve done without them for so long. But whereabouts in Italy do you picture yourself living? There is probably more beauty per square mile here than almost any other corner of Europe. It’s going to be no simple matter to hit on the ideal location, even if you know for sure that you prefer big city life to the tranquility of the countryside. 

Italy is a peninsula that can be divided into three parts: the north, the center, and the south and islands. It has enough geographical variety to offer up whatever you think of as the perfect location. Mountains, sprinkled with lakes and clad in evergreens, the countryside in the north is very similar to that of Austria and Switzerland. Many of the central regions feature gentle hills, vineyards and cypress trees standing like sentinels on the skyline. Much of the deep south is very arid and rocky, but it’s here you’ll find some of the country’s best beaches. The two main islands—Sicily and Sardinia—offer another dimension to Italy. Both are scenically splendid with glorious beaches and towering mountains...almost like continents in miniature.

In Northern Italy, you can still find restored village houses in the idyllic wine-producing region of Piemonte for under $70,000. Look to the hills of western Liguria—the stunning Italian Riviera—for ready-to-move-into village properties for under $85,000. In the Lake Maggiore town of Stresa, a studio apartment in a restored “liberty” period villa could be yours for $78,000…or how about a habitable house with a couple of acres in a tranquil corner of central Italy’s unspoiled Le Marché region for $64,000? 

Looking for a traditional farmhouse fixer-upper? In the verdant hills of Emilia Romagna, the starting figure is a mere $59,000. There are affordable options all over Italy. Yes, even in Tuscany if you concentrate on the hilly north of the region instead of the golden triangle between Florence, Pisa, and Siena. Around Lucca and in the Lunigiana, habitable village houses still surface for under $100,000.  - Article Continued Below -
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- Article Continued From Above -

Calabria—Italy’s latest revitalization project
Italians call the south of their country Il Mezzogiorno, the Land of the Midday Sun. And you can’t travel any farther south than the Calabria region—the toe of Italy’s elegant boot. Last stop before Sicily, it’s one of the country’s least explored regions—and it’s the warmest and sunniest, too. 

Encircled by a translucent sea of palest blue on three sides, Calabria offers house-hunters an affordable alternative to Italy’s northern and central regions. If mountains, seascapes, and tradition are at the top of your “perfect location” checklist, you’ll find it all here.

You’ll find yourself in a land of lemon groves, vineyards, and ancient chestnut woods...a land of fishing villages, stone-built watchtowers, and 8th-century churches. 

On both its Tyrrhenian and Ionian coasts, medieval villages rush helter-skelter down hillsides, their houses strung with bright scarlet peppers drying in the sunshine. Tiny jewel-green lizards scurry everywhere. And the air is perfumed with basil, oregano, rosemary, and other sweet-smelling herbs. 

The aim of Calabria’s “Revitalization Projects” is to restore 1,000-year-old walled cities to their original splendor and make the area a haven for artists, writers, and people in search of la dolce vita. The concept isn’t totally new to Italy. Virtually abandoned by tourists 50 years ago, today Ravello and Positano on the Amalfi Coast rank among the world’s top travel destinations. Similarly, small towns in Tuscany have been revitalized.
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Now it’s Calabria’s turn. Badolato, established in 1080 AD, perches on a hilltop overlooking the crystal-clear Ionian Sea. In a valley above the coastline, Torre di Ruggiero’s history dates back to 800 AD. Surrounded by olive, orange, lemon, hazelnut, walnut, and chestnut groves, both settlements are in southern Italy, on Calabria’s Ionian coastline. And they’re at the center of one of Europe’s most unique revitalization projects.

The first 50 houses to be restored are a group of ancient palazzos and villas dating back to the 15th and 16th centuries. Some are standalone properties; others have been turned into apartments with private entrances. Several villas have already been completed and are available immediately. Unfinished properties can either be completed by purchasers or contracted with a local company.

Large rooms with high ceilings...three-feet-thick stone walls...the house also has two cave-like rooms carved out of the large rock that makes up the village foundations. Since winding streets encircle the village houses, it’s common to have separate entrances on several floors. Casa del Ciliegio has three independent entrances. One features a 500-year-old cupola encased in stone; another is via an ancient stone terrace used as a garden. Balconies and terraces offer glorious views in every direction including the pristine waters of the Ionian Sea, olive and citrus groves, and the old medieval roofs of neighbors. Price including restoration is $270,000.

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Prices elsewhere in Calabria are equally astounding. On the west coast, for example, consider these apartments in Scalea, on offer via the website www.casa.it. The first is 484 square feet, has a kitchen, living room, and one bedroom; it’s partially furnished. The second is a bit larger at 645 square feet, and it comes with all of the above (except it’s totally furnished) and a small garden. Both are available for $27,700 each. 

In the Calabrian seaside town of Scalea an attractive second-floor apartment of 430 square feet is available through A&M Immobiliare. It’s right outside the historic center of town and close to the sea. Price: $30,200.

Italy abounds with farmhouses begging to be restored
In Italy, “restoration” is rarely a simple matter involving fresh paint, sinking a swimming pool, and planting a few lavender bushes. Think abandonment. Think of the days before electricity. Think of the time before toilets and bathrooms were considered essential. Some farmhouses are partially habitable, but don’t include much in the way of modern comforts. While others are described as “structurally sound,” all too often this means that they are shells. Pigeons nesting in the roof? There may not even be a roof. Many farmhouses are abject ruins requiring months of restoration work.

Buyers who couldn’t afford Tuscany initially went eastward into Umbria. As Umbrian prices rocketed, the overspill came farther east into Le Marché. But even in the less fashionable parts of central Italy, farmhouse prices have been rising by 10% to 15% annually. Take the Le Marché region. Four years ago, a basic, restored farmhouse of around 2,800 square feet, with a couple of acres of land would have cost you the equivalent of $200,000. Since then, the dollar has plummeted against the euro. That same house today could cost you $600,000.

Unrestored farmhouses still surface for a lot less. In Emilia Romagna and the Marche region, you’ll see them on sale for $150,000 to $200,000. Although some farmhouses at that price may be habitable, they won’t be in tip-top condition. If you buy a $200,000 farmhouse that’s structurally sound, you can generally plan on spending at least another $200,000 on restoration costs.

Regarding restoration costs, much depends on what state a property is in...and how luxurious you plan to make it. For old farmhouses in the central regions, some agents quote a rule-of-thumb restoring price of around $100 per square foot. Take those kinds of figures with a pinch of salt...it’s likely to cost you more.

Parla Italiano? 
If you imagine that you can just slot into the country without learning any words of the language, you’re in for a nasty shock. Italy is not Denmark, and it is not the Netherlands—unlike the people in those European countries, relatively few Italians speak much English. All the large hotels have multilingual reception staff and you can find an abundance of English-speaking lawyers, doctors, and realtors in cities with a large expatriate community such as Rome and Florence. 

But what if you just want a loaf of bread or a postage stamp? The farther away you get from the big cities and international tourist centers, the trickier the situation becomes. In regions such as Le Marché and Apulia, you are going to have a very lonely time if you don’t learn Italian. 

If you’re simply coming here for a vacation, a good phrasebook will serve for most situations. However, if your dream is to live here, acquiring Italian language skills should be a major part of your preparation.

Italy’s varied climate
When it comes to the weather, Italy really is a land of contrasts. In general, it has one of the best climates in Europe, but conditions can be quite varied. In winter, the Italian Alps are likely to be cold with crisp blue skies and enough snow to keep skiers satisfied. On the other hand, Milan is often fog-bound and the Po Valley can be quite cold and damp. In fact winter fog can be a problem throughout the whole of central and northern Italy. It’s common for flights to get cancelled due to fog. 

For the best winter weather, look to the Italian Riviera, the Amalfi coast, and the islands of Sicily and Sardinia. All enjoy a mild winter climate and rainfall isn’t too heavy either. Obviously the farther south you go during the summertime, the hotter it will get...and the deep south can be very warm indeed. In Apulia, the heel of Italy, even the sea temperature averages 82° F in August.

What things cost
Many tourists are under the impression that Italy is expensive. Have a cup of coffee on St. Mark’s Square in Venice, and all your fears are likely to be confirmed! Truth is, outside of the tourist hot-spots, you don’t have to spend a fortune to enjoy the good life. In the south, and in rural Lunigiana and Liguria, you can buy liter-jugs of local wine for as little as $4. In these areas, a meal in a nice restaurant will cost less than $20 a head.

Obviously, how much it costs to live in Italy is largely dependent on your own lifestyle and whereabouts you choose to settle. Housing costs aside, on current exchange rates, singles will probably need an annual income of $20,000 to $26,000 to enjoy a middle-class lifestyle in northern and central Italy. Couples may require an income of between $26,000 and $40,000.

The average government employee’s salary, after tax, is around the equivalent of $23,500 per year. That said, you can get by on less. We know of one full-time English teacher in Florence who brings home $1,620 a month after taxes. His rental costs are the equivalent of $480, leaving him with a disposable income of $1,140 a month, or $13,680 a year..
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