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Sydney:
From the City to the Mountains
By: Dawnelle
Salant
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April 2006
| You
could easily spend weeks in Sydney and not see everything that this sensational
city has to offer. In my last article I covered only a few of Sydney’s
highlights. When you’re in a big city for a short time, it’s hard to decide
which tourist attractions you have to leave out, but there are certain
must do’s in Sydney.
DARLING
HARBOR
Almost every
major city in Australia has an aquarium, but the one you won’t want to
miss is the Sydney Aquarium, situated in Darling Harbor. A visit to the
Aquarium and Harbor deserves at least half a day. Part of what makes the
aquarium so special is its devotion to Australian marine animals and preserving
their habitats. It helps that Australia has so many unique creatures. It’s
not often you get to see a platypus, an egg laying mammal, swimming so
close to you.
You’ll be glad
the crocodiles are a bit farther away, and separated from you by thick
glass. But don’t just spend your time staring at the animals, have a good
read of the displays. You might be surprised to learn interesting facts
such as how the temperature of the nest determines whether a crocodile
is born male or female.
The aquarium’s
highlights include the Great Barrier Reef display – it’s oh so easy to
find Nemo – the fairy penguins, and the touch pool. Two transparent underwater
tunnels give you a new perspective on viewing marine life as you walk through
them. One tunnel holds sharks and large fish, and the other has Sydney
Harbor marine life, such as seals, in the other.
After you’ve
finished at the aquarium, wander around Darling Harbor. Have a drink at
a trendy waterfront café, visit the Imax theater or shop till you
drop in the Harborside Centre. If you’re a lover of all things maritime,
or even if you’re not, find time to visit the Australian National Maritime
Museum. I have to admit, I’m not a huge fan of ships, but the Maritime
Museum turned out to be one of my favorite museums in Sydney.
The highlight
of the museum is the HMAS Onslow, a submarine that actually served in the
Royal Australian Navy until 1999. Climbing down the ladder into the narrow
entryway, I get the sense that I really am leaving stable land behind.
As I make my way through the tight quarters, I marvel that any one man
could survive on here for six weeks at a time, never mind the sixty sailors
that the ship was built for. The beds look like they’d barely fit a child,
and the showers and toilets give new meaning to the term cramped quarters.
To see where the ship is piloted from makes me wonder how the captain could
possibly use all the dials, screens, wheels and gauges to navigate an 89.90
meter ship around the ocean. A visit to the HMAS Onslow brings a sense
of wonder and a newfound appreciation for sailors.
BONDI BEACH
If lying on
a beach is the way you’d like to pay tribute to the ocean, then spend at
least a day on Bondi Beach (with everybody else in Sydney). There are a
few reasons it’s the most popular beach in the city; it’s close to the
city center, it has the obligatory light colored sand and blue water, it
has great waves for surfing and a breathtaking scenic walk. This is where
the beautiful people go. Forget Hollywood, you’ll see as many carefully
sculpted bodies here as you would in Malibu. Both locals and tourists cover
the sand with their towels, umbrellas and surfboards to soak up Australia’s
relentless sun. Bondi Beach is almost a kilometer long, but somehow it
seems there’s never a free spot left on the beach.
If you come
to Sydney in winter, you can still enjoy the beach. It’s a bit too cold
in July and August for a dip in the water for my liking, but people still
do it. A better way to enjoy the scenery is to take a few hours and stroll
along the Bondi to Bronte Coastal Walk. This is some of the most beautiful
scenery in all of Sydney. It’s hard to believe that the city is just minutes
away.
Start at the
Bondi Pavilion and make your way past the Bondi Baths to Mackenzies Point.
Along the way you’ll pass glorious coastline, stunning flowers, sumptuous
houses with views to die for and occasional bird life. Go at least as far
as Bronte Beach; it’s just as nice as Bondi but less crowded. I’d recommend
walking until you reach Waverley Cemetery. The views get better, the path
is almost deserted and the Cemetery is an historical site. Many famous
Australians, such as poet Henry Kendall, are buried here. Keep your eyes
open for Superb Fairy Wrens around here; the male sports an astonishing
blue color. Walking from Bondi to Waverley and back is about 8km return
and takes about two hours.
WHALE WATCHING
One very good
reason to visit Sydney in the winter months is the annual migration of
Humpback Whales. In June and July, you can partake in whale watching cruises
directly from Sydney’s Harbor. Sydney Whale Watching, www.sydneywhalewatching.com,
offers half day True Blue cruises to view the magnificent animals as they
make their way up the coast to warmer waters where they give birth. You
are guaranteed to see whales on these tours, and if you don’t, you’ll receive
a free return trip.
We board the
16 meter sea cat at Darling Harbor with excitement. Even though I’m in
Australia, it is still winter and I’m wrapped from head to foot in warm
clothing, including a hat, scarf and mittens. Not the sort of attire you’d
expect to wear for a day on the sea in Australia, but it can get very cold
here, too. As we make our way through the harbor to the open waters, we
pass under the Harbor Bridge and go by the Opera House. It’s like getting
a free tour of the harbor and its sights.
As we approach
the open sea, we’re instructed to keep our eyes open for signs of whales.
Occasionally, the whales breach, propelling themselves from the water,
but the most common sign that whales are in the area is a stream of air
spouting out of the water. And it’s not long before the guide points this
out. About 100 meters to the right are several streams of air, proof that
whales swim in the water surrounding us.
A minute later,
I see a lump of grey sticking out of the water. I’m not sure what part
of the whale it is, but it’s the first portion of a wild whale I’ve ever
seen and everyone on the boat claps with excitement. There are two whales
swimming together, this is quite common. A few more glimpses of grey delight
us before we see a tail fluke; when the whale lifts its tail high into
the air before going down for a deep dive.
The guide explains
that the whales can dive for anywhere from a few to 30 minutes. She points
out the footprint left by the whale, a patch of water that looks less glossy
than the rest. A few minutes later, slightly farther ahead, the whales
surface again. This time we’re rewarded with a good look at one of the
whale’s pectoral fins as she slaps it against the water. She’s playing
with us; teasing the spectators with her power and beauty.
Although we
never see the entire whale, its enormity is evident from the size of its
tail and fins, which it shows off to us quite often. We keep up with the
whales as they swim north but all too soon, it’s time to go back. It’s
hard to believe that the whales swim so close to the biggest city on the
continent.
TARONGA
ZOO
The best way
to get to Sydney’s unique zoo is from Circular Quay. You can purchase a
Zoopass at the ferry terminal which includes entrance to the zoo, a return
ferry ride across the harbor, and a bus or Sky Safari (cable car) ride
up the hillside to the entrance. Take the Sky Safari if the line is not
too long, you get a bird’s eye view of the zoo on your way up.
One thing you
don’t want to miss is the Koala Encounter. Although you aren’t allowed
to touch the furry marsupials, you are allowed to enter their enclosure
and get your photo taken next to one. Other native Australian animals in
the zoo include kangaroos, platypuses, echidnas, sea lions, and laughing
kookaburras.
Taronga zoo
has a wide variety of animals from all over the world. The Wild Asia exhibit
alone is worth an hour or two. Wander the re-creation of an Asian rainforest
slowly, stopping to watch the rare Silvery Gibbons and the Malayan Tapir.
Some of the
zoo’s other highlights are the Red Panda, Star Turtles, Sun Conures, Kodiak
bear, and the Komodo Dragon. Don’t miss the giraffes either; their enclosure
is perched high on the hillside with perfect views of the Sydney Harbor.
It’s the only time you’ll see a giraffe with the Opera House in the background.
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Continued From Above.
BLUE MOUNTAINS
About a two
hour train ride from Central Station in Sydney lies one of New South Wales’
premier outdoor destinations, the Blue Mountains. Now, I come from a valley
in the Canadian Rocky Mountains, so my idea of what constitutes mountains
may be slightly different than yours. Although the Blue Mountains weren’t
exactly what I was expecting, they are one of my favorite places in Australia.
Just don’t go there expecting to see tall, jagged peaks of granite.
It’s worth
spending a few days in the Blue Mountain area. The main village is Katoomba,
a delightful little town filled with cafes, adventure gear stores and tour
companies. One thing you must do is the Trolley Tour. The trolley makes
loops around the key sites of interest to tourists, with 29 stops where
you can get on and off. Bring your walking shoes – the best part of the
Blue Mountains is the scenic walking trails that follow the rim of the
gorge.
The trolley
leaves from the Carrington Hotel in Katoomba. From there it meanders through
Leura Village, home to beautiful gardens and novelty sweet shops. It’s
best to use the trolley as a way to get from one walking point to another.
If you just sit on the trolley the whole time, you’ll miss the spectacular
scenery.
On the first
day, we get off at Gordon Falls just past Leura and walk to Honeymoon Point
along the Prince Henry Cliff Walk. It’s a relatively easy grade walk, and
we take our time, spending several hours inhaling the scent of the gum
trees and stopping to photograph the endless colorful parrots that cross
our path. In the distance, looking out over the gorge, I can see where
the Blue Mountains get their name. A blue haze covers the valley; it comes
from a fine oily mist given off by the abundant eucalyptus trees.
A skink or
two slithers in the grass near the trail, occasional flowers break up the
green shrubbery and the sheer cliff sides provide a contrast to the blue
gorge. We make our way to the Leura Cascades, and are surprised by the
slight trickle of water that the “waterfall” currently consists of. But
the cascades sit in a beautiful valley and so many cockatoos fly overhead
that the trees are almost white in some areas.
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caves are best reached by tour bus; the steep, windy road is only open
to public traffic at certain times of the day. You can choose to visit
one or more of several caves in the area; we took a guided tour of the
Orient Cave. I never knew sights like this could exist underground. The
cave takes its name from the oranges and reds found naturally here that
had only previously been seen in Persian paintings.
The tour includes
explanations of all the cave’s incredible features, such as stalactites,
stalagmites, halactites (growing sideways from the walls) and shawls, which
look like huge ribbons of bacon. See if you can find the fairy skating
rink, fairy toilet and Petrified Forest. Notably, this is the first cave
in the world to have been steam cleaned!
Back in Katoomba
the next day, we head to the main tourist attraction in the Blue Mountains;
Scenic World. The piece de resistance is the Three Sisters at Echo Point,
a picture perfect rock formation set in the gorge. Exploration of the gorge
and better views of the Three Sisters are waiting for you at the bottom
of the gorge, and you’ll never believe how you get down there. How about
a ride on the world’s steepest railway? Scenic Railway takes you 415 meters
down into the rainforest. Hang on tight – you feel like you’re going down
head first.
Once down,
take some time to wander around the Scenic Walkway. An elevated series
of wooden boardwalks guide you through the forest. If you’re really lucky,
you’ll encounter a lyrebird – the rare bird seen on Australia’s ten cent
coin. But it’s your ears you need to use in order to locate this bird,
rather than your eyes. Listen for scratching sounds in the leaf litter
lining the forest floor. The lyrebird spends most of its time scratching
around for food and once you know what to listen for, if one is in the
area, you’ll hear it easily.
We were lucky
enough to encounter five of the smaller peacock like birds with sensational
tail feathers. The male’s feathers are more luxuriant than the females,
so it’s quite easy to tell the two apart. When you’ve had enough walking,
take the Scenic Cableway back up for one last glorious look at the gorge
below you.
What better
way to end an adventure filled trip to the Blue Mountains than at one of
its many spas. Sparadise, located near Lithgow, 30 minutes west of Katoomba
by car, is the perfect place to soothe your aching body after all the hiking.
Sparadise follows the traditional Japanese bath procedure. After showering,
start with a visit to the herbal steam room. Scents of eucalyptus relax
you and clear your lungs while the steam gently exfoliates. From there
it’s on to one of the hot spa pools. Enjoy a dip in the indoor spa pool
with views of the valley or sit outside in the other hot spa pool.
In between
dips, relax in the Zen Garden or take a walk on the reflexology path. The
stones feel uncomfortable on your bare feet at first, but after a few trips
they start to work their charm. You can go through the whole sequence several
times - a typical visit last about three hours. Before returning to the
steam room, however, try a dip in the icy cold tub to refresh you. Sparadise
also offers on site accommodation. www.bluemountainsparadise.com
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