WHALE WATCHING

One very good reason to visit Sydney in the winter months is the annual migration of Humpback Whales. In June and July, you can partake in whale watching cruises directly from Sydney’s Harbor. Sydney Whale Watching, www.sydneywhalewatching.com, offers half day True Blue cruises to view the magnificent animals as they make their way up the coast to warmer waters where they give birth. You are guaranteed to see whales on these tours, and if you don’t, you’ll receive a free return trip.

We board the 16 meter sea cat at Darling Harbor with excitement. Even though I’m in Australia, it is still winter and I’m wrapped from head to foot in warm clothing, including a hat, scarf and mittens. Not the sort of attire you’d expect to wear for a day on the sea in Australia, but it can get very cold here, too. As we make our way through the harbor to the open waters, we pass under the Harbor Bridge and go by the Opera House. It’s like getting a free tour of the harbor and its sights.

As we approach the open sea, we’re instructed to keep our eyes open for signs of whales. Occasionally, the whales breach, propelling themselves from the water, but the most common sign that whales are in the area is a stream of air spouting out of the water. And it’s not long before the guide points this out. About 100 meters to the right are several streams of air, proof that whales swim in the water surrounding us.

A minute later, I see a lump of grey sticking out of the water. I’m not sure what part of the whale it is, but it’s the first portion of a wild whale I’ve ever seen and everyone on the boat claps with excitement. There are two whales swimming together, this is quite common. A few more glimpses of grey delight us before we see a tail fluke; when the whale lifts its tail high into the air before going down for a deep dive. 

The guide explains that the whales can dive for anywhere from a few to 30 minutes. She points out the footprint left by the whale, a patch of water that looks less glossy than the rest. A few minutes later, slightly farther ahead, the whales surface again. This time we’re rewarded with a good look at one of the whale’s pectoral fins as she slaps it against the water. She’s playing with us; teasing the spectators with her power and beauty.

Although we never see the entire whale, its enormity is evident from the size of its tail and fins, which it shows off to us quite often. We keep up with the whales as they swim north but all too soon, it’s time to go back. It’s hard to believe that the whales swim so close to the biggest city on the continent.

TARONGA ZOO

The best way to get to Sydney’s unique zoo is from Circular Quay. You can purchase a Zoopass at the ferry terminal which includes entrance to the zoo, a return ferry ride across the harbor, and a bus or Sky Safari (cable car) ride up the hillside to the entrance. Take the Sky Safari if the line is not too long, you get a bird’s eye view of the zoo on your way up. 

One thing you don’t want to miss is the Koala Encounter. Although you aren’t allowed to touch the furry marsupials, you are allowed to enter their enclosure and get your photo taken next to one. Other native Australian animals in the zoo include kangaroos, platypuses, echidnas, sea lions, and laughing kookaburras.

Taronga zoo has a wide variety of animals from all over the world. The Wild Asia exhibit alone is worth an hour or two. Wander the re-creation of an Asian rainforest slowly, stopping to watch the rare Silvery Gibbons and the Malayan Tapir. 

Some of the zoo’s other highlights are the Red Panda, Star Turtles, Sun Conures, Kodiak bear, and the Komodo Dragon. Don’t miss the giraffes either; their enclosure is perched high on the hillside with perfect views of the Sydney Harbor. It’s the only time you’ll see a giraffe with the Opera House in the background.

BLUE MOUNTAINS

About a two hour train ride from Central Station in Sydney lies one of New South Wales’ premier outdoor destinations, the Blue Mountains. Now, I come from a valley in the Canadian Rocky Mountains, so my idea of what constitutes mountains may be slightly different than yours. Although the Blue Mountains weren’t exactly what I was expecting, they are one of my favorite places in Australia. Just don’t go there expecting to see tall, jagged peaks of granite.

It’s worth spending a few days in the Blue Mountain area. The main village is Katoomba, a delightful little town filled with cafes, adventure gear stores and tour companies. One thing you must do is the Trolley Tour. The trolley makes loops around the key sites of interest to tourists, with 29 stops where you can get on and off. Bring your walking shoes – the best part of the Blue Mountains is the scenic walking trails that follow the rim of the gorge. 

The trolley leaves from the Carrington Hotel in Katoomba. From there it meanders through Leura Village, home to beautiful gardens and novelty sweet shops. It’s best to use the trolley as a way to get from one walking point to another. If you just sit on the trolley the whole time, you’ll miss the spectacular scenery.

On the first day, we get off at Gordon Falls just past Leura and walk to Honeymoon Point along the Prince Henry Cliff Walk. It’s a relatively easy grade walk, and we take our time, spending several hours inhaling the scent of the gum trees and stopping to photograph the endless colorful parrots that cross our path. In the distance, looking out over the gorge, I can see where the Blue Mountains get their name. A blue haze covers the valley; it comes from a fine oily mist given off by the abundant eucalyptus trees.

A skink or two slithers in the grass near the trail, occasional flowers break up the green shrubbery and the sheer cliff sides provide a contrast to the blue gorge. We make our way to the Leura Cascades, and are surprised by the slight trickle of water that the “waterfall” currently consists of. But the cascades sit in a beautiful valley and so many cockatoos fly overhead that the trees are almost white in some areas. 

The next day, we board a tour bus early in the morning to visit the Jenolan Caves. The caves are best reached by tour bus; the steep, windy road is only open to public traffic at certain times of the day. You can choose to visit one or more of several caves in the area; we took a guided tour of the Orient Cave. I never knew sights like this could exist underground. The cave takes its name from the oranges and reds found naturally here that had only previously been seen in Persian paintings. 

The tour includes explanations of all the cave’s incredible features, such as stalactites, stalagmites, halactites (growing sideways from the walls) and shawls, which look like huge ribbons of bacon. See if you can find the fairy skating rink, fairy toilet and Petrified Forest. Notably, this is the first cave in the world to have been steam cleaned! 

Back in Katoomba the next day, we head to the main tourist attraction in the Blue Mountains; Scenic World. The piece de resistance is the Three Sisters at Echo Point, a picture perfect rock formation set in the gorge. Exploration of the gorge and better views of the Three Sisters are waiting for you at the bottom of the gorge, and you’ll never believe how you get down there. How about a ride on the world’s steepest railway? Scenic Railway takes you 415 meters down into the rainforest. Hang on tight – you feel like you’re going down head first. 

Once down, take some time to wander around the Scenic Walkway. An elevated series of wooden boardwalks guide you through the forest. If you’re really lucky, you’ll encounter a lyrebird – the rare bird seen on Australia’s ten cent coin. But it’s your ears you need to use in order to locate this bird, rather than your eyes. Listen for scratching sounds in the leaf litter lining the forest floor. The lyrebird spends most of its time scratching around for food and once you know what to listen for, if one is in the area, you’ll hear it easily. 

We were lucky enough to encounter five of the smaller peacock like birds with sensational tail feathers. The male’s feathers are more luxuriant than the females, so it’s quite easy to tell the two apart. When you’ve had enough walking, take the Scenic Cableway back up for one last glorious look at the gorge below you. 

What better way to end an adventure filled trip to the Blue Mountains than at one of its many spas. Sparadise, located near Lithgow, 30 minutes west of Katoomba by car, is the perfect place to soothe your aching body after all the hiking. Sparadise follows the traditional Japanese bath procedure. After showering, start with a visit to the herbal steam room. Scents of eucalyptus relax you and clear your lungs while the steam gently exfoliates. From there it’s on to one of the hot spa pools. Enjoy a dip in the indoor spa pool with views of the valley or sit outside in the other hot spa pool. 

In between dips, relax in the Zen Garden or take a walk on the reflexology path. The stones feel uncomfortable on your bare feet at first, but after a few trips they start to work their charm. You can go through the whole sequence several times - a typical visit last about three hours. Before returning to the steam room, however, try a dip in the icy cold tub to refresh you. Sparadise also offers on site accommodation. www.bluemountainsparadise.com

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