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The
Lost Continent Found on Paradise
By Claudia
Belleau
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.April
2006
Paradise
Island is a small spit of Bahamian earth in Nassau Harbor connected to
the mainland of New Providence by two entry and exit bridges vaulting pastel
condos, resorts, and marinas. Nassau, the capital of the Bahamas, is also
the common name for all of New Providence. People say they’ll retire to
Nassau; students come to Nassau to party and couples are wed here. The
broader reality, imbued with the politics which has placed the Bahamas
at the top of the Caribbean ladder of luxury, is hidden in the colonial
homes fronted by rolling lawns or private beaches, in the new developments
from Sandyport to Love Beach and Old Fort Bay. The indigenous people
live on the outskirts of downtown Nassau, expanding outward toward the
interior of New Providence, in small cement or stucco houses, some with
home businesses proffering family clothing or barbershop services.
Yet it is Paradise
Island that evokes a providential reality. There is no sign of slums,
poverty, or misery from this tropical perch. As you drive the few
miles of the isle, you'll observe that it is a hand-crafted jewel set in
tourism's tiara to attract the visitors who enrich the Bahamian economy.
The Bahamian dollar is fairly exchanged with the U.S. dollar.
There is even
an Outback Steakhouse and KFC, on the Nassau side of the bridge, to satisfy
American habits. Those who polish this jewel are discreet. The crews of
landscapers work in subdued earth-tone garb, against which their high-blackness
stands out less. The only indicator of their natural lifestyle is a posted
warning: "no shirt, no shoes, no job". Even the taxi driver wore a suit,
praised Jesus all over his bumper. There are hundreds of churches within
range; photos of church ladies under fancy hats are legendary. This is,
after all, New Providence, and there is much to be grateful for. The economy
is the highest per capita in the Caribbean and people don’t seem embittered
by hunger or exploitation. On the surface of things, they smile and promote
the development which has brought them New York style and tourism galore.
When
asking for the 'must see' or 'must do' in Nassau, the universal response
these days is "Atlantis". The Atlanteans, an advanced civilization whose
laser and crystal science allowed them to rule their known world, eventually
lost control of their tools, themselves, and that world. Their submerged
continent is the fabric of fable. A South African hotel mogul has articulated
his vision of Atlantis in a hotel, marina, shopping village, villa, enormous
casino, and themed mega-complex. "The Dig”, a labyrinth of chambers, contains
the "ruins" of ancient Atlantis, complete with "hieroglyphs" which tell
the tale and murals that depict the lost civilization. On your way
to the marine habitat, you can bask in the magnificence of the gold dome
ceiling or the map of the explorers. Don’t worry—you need not go
it alone. My guide was an informed Bahamian with a science background
and special training for this job. He consistently referred me in
great detail to the history, construction, and marine science involved
in creating this unique ecosystem. The Dig exhibits include a recreation
of a Georesonant Clock, a laboratory, a submarine room with diving suits
and bells, and a navigation room.
The real and
pretense intermingle: a pump mechanism described as ancient really
does oxygenate the water for the 50,000 sea creatures using natural tidal
motion. The attention to detail in presenting the "archaeological
sites" is amplified with the real, attendant marine life, ranging from
huge manta rays, sea turtles, moray eels, and barracuda to angelfish and
bonefish. The Treasury Room, securing the records and scientific instruments
prized by Atlantis, is guarded by piranhas. There is still more marine
life, sampling 200 species, living in exhibits and viewing locations appointed
at several lagoons and tunnels. This marine habitat, one of the planet’s
largest, uses 600 pounds of food per day! Although many species are
regional, the odds of encountering one while swimming on the Atlantis beach
so close to shore are small. Any lingering fear of shark or barracuda bite
can be allayed by choosing to plunge into the myriad pools which the hotel
offers its guests. There’s the river pool, eleven swimming areas,
the 7 acre Paradise Lagoon for snorkeling and water sports, the Mayan temple
water slides, waterfalls, and more--11 million gallons of water!
There are special activities designed to keep kids and teens interested.
It’s easy to be overwhelmed in light of the courtyard representation of
the flying horses of Atlantis or the Pegasus Fountain.
Those not lodged
here can work off any stress in the evening at Joker’s Wild Comedy Club,
a small venue which makes art of stand-up over cocktails or with food for
the gourmand which abounds in gustatory diversity throughout the 35 restaurants
and lounges. You can enjoy the local catch in Fathoms while observing the
antics in the aquarium. If you’ve a hankering for Italian, Asian,
Bahamian, or even New York Deli, there’s a restaurant to satisfy.
If you want to keep the fantasy alive, try the truly unique Cave Grill
to stay authentic to the interpretation of Atlantis’ reality. The
village area has casual dining at outdoor juice, ice cream, and café
spots ideal for people watching and kid’s delight. The celebrities
who own property range from Oprah (owns a home down the road) to Michael
Jordan (held his Golf Tournament down the road), Cedric the Entertainer
(sure looked like him strolling through the casino) to Bill Clinton (glimpsed
on a yacht in the Atlantis marina). They all enjoy a place which
is both glamorous and homey, proffering Bahamian honey, regional art, and
haute couture. -
Article Continued Below
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Continued
From Above -
Although I
enjoyed dabbling with luxury at Atlantis, my budget slated me for the affordable
Paradise Island Harbor Resort. This was my first “all-inclusive”,
a label heretofore taboo to my adventuring tastes. The hotel is situated
on the waterfront with a view of the harbor and marina. Each morning,
over an extensive buffet breakfast which included fresh fruit and juice,
grits and cereals, and omelets made to order, I watched the boats head
out to other Bahamian islands with snorkelers, divers, and booze cruisers.
The themed evening buffets at the Captain’s Table were piquant and varied:
Jamaican food, Mexican night, Asian dinner, and Texas barbeque in that
many days. The chef, trained in New York, was topnotch and interested
in guest opinions. I was able to use the free-form pool, swim up
to Wahoo’s Pool Bar and Grille for my Bahama Mama or a “Pucker Up” mega-rum
drink, and swim away.
You
can also order the ever-present conch fritters, burgers, and light fare
and never miss a ray of sun! This family hotel offers daily activities
for both kids and adults. I missed the limbo dance/fire show, but
trios or solo artists playing island and pop music kept the beat nightly
in the large lobby. Those who didn’t dance could lounge in Spinnakers,
the lobby pub. The English couple played dominos here every night
and I improved my ‘English” on the pool cue. The many children seemed
content to disappear into the supervised kids’ club and emerged happy.
The hotel staff were courteous and available for morning exercise or evening
movies poolside and tennis lessons on the court. For restful moments,
I could stretch out on a hammock by the small beach and soak my sun-deprived
New England skin. The new guests from Scotland asked me how far the
nearest large beach is…they were coming from -2 degree weather! I
tell them about Cabbage, a ten-minute walk away to the other side of this
narrow isle. Once you’ve crossed the roadways, dotted with small
plazas of shops, you’ll observe signage, a broad sandy path to Cabbage
Beach, miles of pristine, public white sand stretching toward Atlantis
in one direction and infinity (seemingly) in another. I can do my
beach walk until I arrive at the "private…security will escort you out"
signs.
There is little
difference in the real estate bordering the public and private sectors:
size and distance from the coconut punch/bead/jet ski ride purveyors are
the most noticeable. The swimming here is fantastic turquoise bliss; just
watch out for the undertow. Cabbage is one of the still-accessible,
expansive, and relatively ‘pure’ beaches here. The ‘mainland’ beaches
have been affected by development. The touted snorkeling at Love
Beach is impossible because the area is now privatized. The stretch
at Cable Beach is dominated by guests of the resorts on the strip and vendors
hawking hand-hewn trinkets and souvenirs. (You can do well here if you
don’t respond to the flurry of vendors, take time to look and to barter.
I did find a beautiful, roomy straw tote and a pair of shell earrings for
$20 U.S.) But Cabbage is what all the vista photos which lured
you here have promised. Planning to arrive mid-afternoon ensures
more privacy and a glorious sunset.
Bahamian Hand
Prints is definitely worth an excursion into town. Although the shop
is Paradise-chic, it is on the Nassau side of the bridge. (Bear left as
you leave Paradise Island and look for the Outback Steakhouse which fronts
the print store.) Still, you need to have money to spend on this distinctive
line which is exported throughout the globe. The clothing and
handbags, produced in the traditional way, sport delicate reminders of
island life--flora, fauna, boat scenes, the flamingo—in muted oceanic colors.
Your clerk is also an artisan, so feel free to ask questions about the
process which happens at the rear of the storefront. Don’t forget
to browse through the fabric rack --I found 2.5 yards of orchid print on
closeout for a humble price! You might also consider taking home
delicacies from the Rum Cake Factory. This bakery is downtown on
Bay Street within walking distance of the Paradise Island bridges.
The original and flavored cakes are made with Don Lorenzo Rum and local
spices. There are even mini-cakes to sample, but they won’t suffice.
These cakes are truly scrumptious!
When you venture
off-Paradise, circumvent the hordes of cruise ship tourists downtown and
follow West Bay Street to the Ardastra Gardens, Zoo, and Conservation Center.
The 5.5 acres creates a home for 300 animals, birds, and reptiles. Many
of them are endangered, so this intimate glimpse is special. The threatened
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That spectacle, along with the Lorry parrot feeding, is an interactive
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petting pen without purchasing the handful of food. I had no quarters for
the vending machine, yet ventured forth to pet the lamb. He moved away,
but a bold goat advanced to nibble on my tropical-hued skirt! What a brush
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head back down the hill to check out the famous Fish Fry across the way
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The Straw Market, also an amalgam of stalls, adjacent to downtown offers
many affordable handcrafted items, art, botanical soaps. You can even have
your hair-braided while enjoying a native musical ensemble!
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