From
Yin and Yang to Fred and Ginger: The Dancing Building in Prague
By Michael
Felton-O'Brien
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..- March
2006
Nationale-Nederlanden
- The Dancing Building in Prague
In
a quiet green space in the ancient city of Prague, Czech Republic, a stone-faced
old man sits idly and watches as a gleaming couple bends and sways in a
perpetual dance on the corner of a busy intersection near the banks of
the Vltava River.
But there is no music to be heard
as the couple dances, because in reality “the dancers” are actually a
Frank Gehry creation officially known as the Nationale-Nederlanden building.
The building has been dubbed “Fred
and Ginger” by appreciative critics because of its resemblance to the famous
dancing pair of Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers. Like-minded Czechs tend
to call it tancinsky d?m, or, The Dancing Building, while less appreciative
viewers have names for it like: “terrible“ and “looks like a crushed can
of Coke“ to name but a few.
The American Gehry, known to many
as the King of Pop Architecture, has won world-wide acclaim (and occasional
derision) for his unusual and seemingly gravity-defying designs throughout
the world, including the new Walt Disney concert hall in Los Angeles, the
Experience Music Project in Seattle, and the Guggenheim Bilbao art museum
in Spain. In architectural circles he has long been known as “the other
Frank”, alluding to the universally known American architect Frank Lloyd
Wright.
In 1992, Gehry teamed up with Yugoslav-born
Czech architect Vlado Milunic to create the seven-story office building
for the Dutch National Bank. Since its completion, people throughout the
worlds of art and architecture have been staging a long-running argument
over its apparent merits and faults.
In a 2005 interview with Radio Praha,
Milunic discussed how the project was born: "In 1990 I got the original
idea and I was contacted by my friend Paul Koch, who was a representative
of the Dutch company National-Nederlanden. And, he liked my project but
we decided that we would not be able to receive all the necessary approvals.
We decided to associate with another architect, someone known with 'authority',
who would help approve this project. The first architect we tried was Jean
Nouvel, but he refused this collaboration because he said that 500 square
meters was too small for two architects. And, in '92 with Paul Koch we
visited Frank Gehry in Geneva. When he saw my first sketches Frank accepted
the idea of having two different parts."
Milunic continued: "I wanted the
building to reflect the situation of the Czechoslovak society during the
Velvet Revolution. Two parts. Like a society that forgot its totalitarian
past - a static part - and a society that forgot its totalitarian past
but was moving into a world full of changes. That was the main idea. Two
different parts in dialogue, in tension, like plus and minus, like Yang
and Yin, like man and woman."
While most of Prague was spared any
damage related to the destruction caused by the bombing and fighting in
the European theater during World War II, the site of the Dancing Building
was once home to a Neo-Renaissance house dating back to the 19th century
but was destroyed on February 14, 1945 by an errant American bomb that
most believed was destined for the fire bombing of Dresden during the final
stages of the war. The remnants of the destroyed building were cleared
away in 1960, leaving a gaping hole next the neighboring house which was
co-owned by Czech ex-president Vaclav Havel, who lived there from his childhood
until the mid-1990s.
From this literal and figurative
depression, the Dancing House would someday spring, and its creators were
determined to honour its historical foundation.
Construction began in 1994 and was
quickly finished in two years time, despite the fact that the building
is made from 99 concrete panels each of different shape and dimension,
which meant that each panel required a unique wooden form in order to ensure
proper construction. According to www.galinsky.com: “Gehry had an almost
unlimited budget, because ING wanted to create an icon in Prague. “
When the construction was completed,
ING had its icon, but not necessarily the one they were looking for Gehry
to create.
Some critics, like Simonetta Carbonaro,
have called the building a 'Dancing Palace,' 'a new jewel of the city's
architecture [...] that is adding a new aspect to its history.' Josef Singldinger's
comments are similarly positive: he said that “Fred and Ginger” marks a
clear contrast to the rather boring recent architecture found elsewhere
in Prague. He classifies Gehry's construction as an example of 'catastrophe
design,' which is similar to deconstruction design in that the creations
of both are usually borne from the ashes of destruction: in this case,
from the errant American bomb.
On the other hand, critics like
Wilfried Dechau, the editor of a German architectural magazine, states
that the building reminds him of a 'crushed can of Coke.' He believed that
the American architect should not have marked this corner of Prague with
his 'scent,' for “this gap torn by American bombs at the end of the war
should have been closed with utmost formal restraint in order to preserve
(at least from the outside) the homogeneous impression of this street.”
While the argument may forever rage
over Gehry's decisions to imbue his own unique interpretation into the
space, at least one critic believes that his achievement struck the right
chords in both form and function.
In his wonderful essay on the building,
Joseph Pesch states: “'Fred and Ginger' is anything but an alien American
element in a Central-European city. On the contrary: the building is to
remind Europeans of the darkest chapter in their history. As a deconstructive
building it represents the apocalyptic destruction of historically grown
physical structures and thus refers to the violent annihilation of a significant
part of European cultures, Jewish cultures in particular. To make invisible
such memories with a restorative style of building, to pretend that 'nothing
has happened' here, would have been true vandalism.”
In keeping with the theme of remembrance
for the darker times, it is interesting to note that the building's large
dome, which sits atop the corner of the building, harkens back to a catastrophic
event which took place thousands of miles away from Prague's bustling streets
but is nonetheless connected to Prague's history of sadness.
Pesch believes that “this empty dome
alludes to the steel structures of the dome of the Hiroshima A-bomb memorial
building. This and other similarities in the structures of both buildings
are too obvious to be coincidental. However, in Hiroshima - and Nagasaki
- destruction was so complete that no restorable facades or ensembles were
left: both cities and most of their inhabitants disappeared in apocalyptic
fires. I see local reference in this allusion to destruction on a much
larger scale, captured in a building occupying a site of a house also destroyed
at the end of the war. Furthermore, the former Hiroshima Prefectural Industrial
Promotion Hall, built in 1915, was designed by the Czech architect Jan
Letzel (1880-1925). 'Ginger and Fred' thus becomes a nodal point linking
the local to the global across time and space. In the light of these references
I am certain that Prague - a city that had to suffer the consequences of
German aggression and occupation for so much longer than many on this side
of the Iron Curtain - could not have wished for a building more apt, more
right for its city centre than Gehry's elegant memorial.” -
Article
and more photos continued below - |
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Article
Continued From Above -.
To contrast the dark allusions of
the dome, Gehry impregnated the building's riverview side with placement
of the rows of windows that show a playfulness and joy that is evident
throughout the rest of the structure and reminiscent of many of his deconstructionist
buildings which dot the Californian landscape. In fact, some have drawn
comparisons to the works by the artist Mondrian in comparing the layout
of the windows as they undulate up and down along the length of the building
in a sort of dance.
Because it is a working office building,
private tours are not available. But for those who have ventured to Prague
to see it, its inherent beauty (or ugliness, depending upon which stylistic
camp you pitch your tent) is plainly visible from the glimmering, undulating
exterior.
Despite the deep emotions involved
in most people's opinions about Gehry's controversial design, one thing
is clear, in 2005 the Czech National Bank issued a gold coin with the motif
of The Dancing House emblazoned upon it as the final coin of the series
"10 Centuries of Architecture", thereby guaranteeing its place in the pantheon
of Czech architecture, for better or worse.
.
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If you are in Prague and would like
to see the “Fred and Ginger“ building, it is located on the corner of the
embankment Rasinovo nabrezi and the street Resslova, within walking distance
from the underground station Karlovo namesti. A restaurant on the building's
seventh floor, “The Pearl of Prague“ affords lovely views of the Vltava
River and the rest of Prague.
.
| Michael Felton-O'Brien
is a freelance writer and photographer who lives in Vienna, Austria. He
previously wrote about Hundertwasserhaus
in Vienna for this publication. |
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