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Letters
From The Blue Water
The Log
Of The Yacht Barraveigh
By Colin
Reedy
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..March
2006
| Introduction by Roger Gallo -
I am not alone in believing that John Steinbeck's 'Log from the Sea of
Cortez' [1941] can be viewed as the first example of a new form of travel
literature. The Log combines science, philosophy, art and ethics in a form
of narrative that in my opinion was not equaled as travel literature until
Bruce Chatwin wrote 'In Patagonia' [1977] almost forty years later.
Colin Reedy's writing in 'Letters From The Blue Water' reminds me of Steinbeck's
Log. Both combine humor with insight, an obsession with equipment,
(sea gear) the organization of stow space - - this in tempo with
intelligent witness to that which is being seen by writer and reader. The
voyage as mental motion picture, recording the soul of the observer.
On such a voyage, and in such writing, it is more important to know what
to leave out than what to include. Weight is a factor; including
what is essential, is essential. Balance is important, especially under
sail. ...and there are questions. When your drive to act is the pleasure
of the action, what about the compass? "The compass simply represents
the ideal..." Stienbeck tells us, "...present, but unachievable."
"Sight steering is a compromise with perfection...." ..yes, sight
steering is imprecise; it meanders, leaving us to ask, what is the true
heading if one is seeking adventure?
I've known Colin Reedy for almost
15 years. He studied design in Milan, traveled throughout the Mediterranean
on a motorcycle, into Turkey, Egypt and the Arabic world. When I
first met him he hung around with a Dutch girl named Muriel who was one
of the most gorgeous and intelligent women I've ever met. He let
her get away. I scolded him. He hung his head and smiled.....
not to be restricted to one thing, his obsession then, as now, is the world,
his designs, tomorrow, and the day after; and out of this mess of pottage,
what he can innovate. To invent. I've never seen him when he
wasn't working/creating innovating. Yet he manages to turn work into
fun, as this log will manifest.
When I started the EscapeArtist.com
website Colin submitted one of the first articles, 'Global
Nomadic Housing For Expatriates' - which is an article based on his
design for housing that you can ship around the world with you, like an
immense livable suitcase. That article has always been one of the
most popular articles on our website and it spun off an online discussion
group that has now had a seven year history of being online and active.
Colin's passion is contagious... Look at his reasons for why he would
take off on a sea voyage around the world; Why?
"To learn and experience
the world first hand, and challenge ourselves against the vast unknown.
To escape the daily routines that blur one week into the next. To shirk
steady secure careers now, in favor of amazing memories that last forever."
Three guys, a 41-foot sailboat, and
enough gear and equipment to wrap half way around the world... three guys
doing what most of us only dream about doing. It's the sort of adventure
that makes me want to go off and do something similar. To just chuck
it and ship out, into the blue water. ....the blue water ...in
pursuit of amazing memories that last forever. I'm intoxicated.
We will be featuring 'Letters From
The Blue Water' in each issue of our eZine. It is the best sort of
travel adventure, the photographs are good, the heroes handsome, the writing
intelligent, the observations pertinent. I'm glad Colin is letting
us publish this log on our website... he is a good friend and I'm
proud of him for his many accomplishments... even if he did
let Muriel get away. - - Roger Gallo is the Publisher of EscapeArtist.com
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Three guys, a 41-foot sailboat,
and enough gear and equipment to wrap half way around the world...which
is exactly what we hope to do. Sailing south from California...along
Central America to Costa Rica ...then west across the South Pacific...Australia...Asia...India.
We've dropped everything in our lives
for this global wander. We quit jobs, rented houses, sold cars, left
girlfriends, and gave away everything that won't fit on the boat.
That was the first challenge. Then we left on an overloaded 20-year
old boat with countless problems and half the knowledge to fix them.
However, time, good judgement, and a bit of luck should balance it all
out. We expect to learn to sail across oceans, read wind and weather, catch
fish, fix things with limited resources, hassle with custom officials,
explore new countries, get sick and scared and maybe hurt, and possibly
lose valuable belongings to nature and thieves.
Why? To learn and experience the
world first hand, and challenge ourselves against the vast unkown. To escape
the daily routines that blur one week into the next. To shirk steady secure
careers now, in favor of amazing memories that last forever. And to return
with great stories, photos, and confidence in ourselves.
This website will keep track of our
journey. Please feel free to contact us, we enjoy the feedback. To
Contact Colin Reedy and the Crew of the Yacht Barraveigh - Click
Here -
Background - Captain And Crew
We've all passed our exams for a
Captain's license with the US Coast Guard, so technically, we are all "Captains"
...but Bob owns the boat and secretly reads many books about leadership,
so more often than not he assumes the role.
I met Bob in 1991 motorcycling thru
the Mediterranean. After camping thru Greece and Crete, I was on my way
to Egypt via Israel to see the pyramids. Bob was about the only other Gringo
on the boat to Haifa. I convinced him to skip working at a kibbutz and
join me to Egypt. Great adventures followed and we've been good friends
ever since. Bob is the visionary hero here for making this whole trip happen.
He's reorganized his life and spent the last year focusing toward this
adventure. He's also the team cheerleader keeping our spirits high and
our efforts on target. He's great about safety and efficiency issues on
the boat, but unfortunately not troubled much by aesthetics or clutter.
I'm working on that.
Ryan is Bob's cousin and managed
to cover some serious ground in his 26 years. Originally from Phoenix,
he's worked and wandered thru Mexico, Thailand, Hawaii, and spent the last
few years driving sport fishing boats off San Diego. He's our fishing guy
and rapidly becoming the electricity expert by untangling and rewiring
most of the power systems on the boat. His yoga tempered patience and attention
to detail make up for his cooking and Country music. |
Ship's Crew
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Colin Reedy
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Bob Friedman
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Ryan Jannenga
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| About Colin Reedy Designs:
In his prize winning furniture designs Colin innovated a way of using recycled
plastics and other materials, including used coffee grounds, recycled HDPE
plastic, recycled rubber, steel and aluminum. The proper disposal of solid
waste is a concern worldwide. Efforts have been made to encourage
everyone to reduce, reuse, recycle and rethink the products they are consuming.
Here is someone who is doing exactly that and creating something useful
and beautiful at the same time. Colin's design philosophy is: "reduce,
reuse, recycle, relax." His highly innovative creations demonstrate
an excellent use of recycled materials; reduction of landfill waste, and
the production of absolutely stunning furniture. "Plastic has many
nice characteristics," says Colin. His tables, chairs, and benches
twist and arch, taking advantage of plastic's bending character.
He has created everything from playground equipment for city parks, to
highly sophisticated art forms which decorate the houses of the rich and
famous. |
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I'm the "materials and design" guy.
They look to me for functional and efficient improvements anywhere on the
boat. Nothing is more fun. With a background in Industrial Design and years
spent making furniture and interiors, I know how things are made, fixed....
or can be quickly rigged up in an emergency. I imagine we'll all have these
abilities in the coming months. I'm also the one to organize much of the
boat for storage and access. I know where everything is and why.
Originally, I was also the "engine guy" in charge of learning and trouble
shooting the diesel engine. But I think we all have assumed a partial role
on that. My other useful qualities include photography, first aid, cooking,
and the ability to fumble thru Spanish, French, and Italian.
5 DEC 05 Ensenada
Fixed
freezer part after 3 days running around town getting parts and advice.
Now we can keep our fish catch cool and the future sushi fresh. We're barely
out of the US but it feels foreign to me. Went to Hussong's Cantina the
first night (of course) but have kept it pretty low key ever since. Prices
here are still a bit high, but the fish tacos are irresistible.
We leave first thing tomorrow for
a small island named St. Martin about a 125 miles south. that should take
us a full 24 hours. it's 3 miles off shore and an extinct volcano with
a seal colony and lava caves. sounds interesting. When sailing at night,
we take shifts (watches) of 2 hours each throughout the night. With three
of us, this gives 4 hours off and enough time to get some rest. Hopefully,
we will sail the whole way without using the motor. Heading down the coast
of Baja California, the winds generally blow from the north or the northwest,
which is perfect. However, since being in Ensenada, we've seen good winds
come off the land from the east and even a bit from the south. Weather
reports look good for tomorrow's trip and the next few days.
7 DEC 05 Great Start: no wind,
engine problem, sick.
One day out of Ensenada. Started
my midnight watch by brushing the barf taste out of my mouth, again. I’ve
only been seasick once before, on a whale watching boat out of San Francisco….but
I’ve been nauseous every time we go out in this boat….not a great sign.
We left Ensenada after 3 days and several trips to a cinderblock shanty
that was the office of our freezer repair experts. We wandered town for
parts and shuttled two technicians in our dinghy out to the anchored boat
for work. Pressurizing the lines three times...new filter...different compressor...endless.
Then it quit working three days south of Ensenada.
I paddled ashore the last morning
to get some squid for fishing and mackerel as bait in the crab traps…wondering
what will crawl into my crab traps when we get to the island. |
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We
had our first engine emergency at sea…not counting the battery charging
failure that brought us back to San Diego after only 3 hours toward Catalina.
This one was worse. A brass fitting fatigued and cracked causing oil to
leak into the bilge. Quite a bit of oil. When I tried to remove it, it
broke off leaving half of itself embedded in the engine block. How the
hell do we get that out? And until we do, oil will literally spurt out
the side. If we drill it out, we ruin the existing threads making it nearly
impossible to screw anything back in to close it. And then we’d need to
tap in new threads. Fortunately, I have the tools to do that, but it’s
not my first choice…and it won’t be the same as before. I tried to drill
out the brass as much as possible, but sitting on the floor of the bathroom
in a pitching boat amplified my nausea….to the point of running for the
deck to heave over the side a few times. So we took turns drilling and
picking at the brass part. After almost three hours we had it out and could
secure the hole. However, we might have introduced metal shavings into
the oil so an oil change seemed logical.
We calculated this trip at about
one 24 hours based on sailing 5 knots. The wind has been much lighter than
hoped, our engine hassle had us sailing west to keep offshore until we
had power, and we left Ensenada later than I’d hoped. So here we are, bobbing
around in almost no wind and still about a day from our destination. Gotta
get used to that.
5:15pm….decided to pull into a place
called Bahia Colnett, about half way between Ensenada and St Martin. Slow
motoring day, but nice and sunny. We set anchor in about 40 feet and 1/3
mile off some high cliffs with a pounding surf. Good wind break. Watched
a clear sunset with beers and Ben Harper while setting out a fishing pole.
Ryan caught about 8 little fish and I dropped in both crab traps…hoping
for lobster. So far I’ve got two spider crabs, one keeper.
8 DEC 05 Bahia Colnett
Woke
at 6:30, made coffee, did an hour of Spanish study, then paddled the red
kayak ashore for a hike up a small rocky canyon to the plateau. Bashed
my ankles on the rocky beach approach….gotta practice those beach landings.
Sweeping views, steep cliffs, angry stickery plants. Called the guys on
the walkie-talkie to check in and wave from the cliff top.
The next weeks along Mexico are the
shakedown period where we will adjust to the boat and fix problems. The
weather this time of year is very calm, almost too calm as there is little
wind and we are again motoring. We make about half the distances we hope,
but I’m catching up on reading, Spanish study, and settling into the routines
we will live with for months. I arrived in San Diego the end of September
and have lived on this boat since. Every other week I am re-arranging my
room, getting rid of stuff, making it more efficient. The same goes for
the whole boat. I am the organizer. I get up early, drink too much coffee,
and run around doing things. I’m into labels, zip lock bags, Tupperware,
and bungee cords to hold stuff in place or keep it dry. Just before leaving
San Diego, we stayed several nights at the public dock or ‘cop dock’ since
the police station is next door. This is often the first or last point
for boats between here and Mexico. This time of year, usually the last
as everyone is headed south for warm weather and fair winds. The hurricane
season generally ends after mid-October. It’s great to walk the docks and
see all the different boats preparing for their journeys. We met several
people whom I’m sure we’ll see again. At the cop dock, I saw everything
from huge expensive yachts with shiny new gear to small cluttered old boats
full of young people optimistically headed across the Pacific. A bit like
rambling around in an old VW microbus. If they can make it, we can. But
it’s great to compare notes, boat details, gear, and swap email addresses.
The boat is divided into our three
personal spaces and then I’ve made a sort of ‘hierarchy of need’ for storage
inside and out. Bob, the owner, gets the rear berth. It’s the largest by
a bit, has a sink + medicine cabinet, but is directly next to the engine
and below the cockpit…so he gets to listen to anyone walking around at
night. And it’s constantly torn up as we do any work on the motor. Bob
and Ryan use the rear head, which also doubles as the shower and pantry….don’t
ask. Ryan made a space for himself by hanging blankets around the settee
in the main salon. We call it ‘Fort Ryan’. It’s actually bigger than the
others, but gets re-arranged if we have company. I have the V-berth up
front. Probably the smallest space, but I have my own sink, medicine cabinet,
and toilet…pretty deluxe. I’ve made a spider web of small black bungee
material that criss-crosses the sides of my triangle shape room. I roll
all my clothes and stick them behind the bungees. I took one of those closet
shoe holders from Ikea and mounted it horizontally to make a nice row of
‘cubby holes’ to stuff things…socks, underwear, gloves, hats, shorts, light
jackets. I have made my space so efficient, I even keep extra stuff like
all the group camping gear, climbing ropes, a storm sail, office supplies
+ records, and even all my power tools. And more often than not….i’m the
only one who knows where it all is. I won’t go on with the other storage
details…pretty anal retentive…but you gotta be on a boat.
We
approached St Martin island about two hours before sunset and anchored
temporarily to fish some kelp beds. On the way, we spotted a few California
Grey whales close off the port bow…and many more spouting plumes of spray
in the distance. Dolphins are common now and I have some great video of
dozens zooming across and under the bow. Nice to climb the mast steps and
get a bird’s eye view. We hooked 6-7 barracuda while trolling and look
forward to better eating fish as we get further south. We let them all
go, but fun to land and examine. At St Martin, Ryan fished, Bob took the
small kayak and trailed a surfboard to check the possibilities, and I paddled
the other kayak around the lee side to explore a lagoon and look for any
signs of the lava caves we read about. I passed a small fishing outpost
with a few rustic buildings and rounded a point to find a quiet lagoon
with about 40 harbor seals on a wide beach between black lava rocks. They
scattered, except for a few. I landed as far away as I could. Seal bones
everywhere…bleached vertebra and ribs…some leathery carcasses…babies that
didn’t make it…two clean white skulls stood out against the black lava
as I pulled up my bright blue kayak. Rough hiking. Ankle biting lava, but
areas of soft green lichen like I’d expect to see in a wetter climate.
The most interesting feature was a white aloe vera plant. Beautiful against
the black and soft green. The white rubbed off like chalk with a touch
and I soon had it on my shoes. I played Charles Darwin for a while then
headed back to the kayaks to meet the boat before dark. While stumbling
around looking for bones, I realized a wheezing sound was an old seal just
15 feet away. It hadn’t run off with the rest. It just slept there without
noticing me. I didn’t want to scare it, but moved around so it could see
me. It looked up and just laid there, opening a mouth missing many teeth.
Probably an old one just waiting to pass on…wheezing and sleeping away
the last days or hours….soon to add itself to the bone piles. I stared
into the black eyes for a while and then backed off to give him his space.
No luck on lobster or lava caves….but
we didn’t hike to the top of the crater. We did, however, get boarded and
checked out by a well armed group of Mexican soldiers. They drove over
to us in a small speedy boat off their big ship. I barely had time to stash
the crab traps and quickly dump a delicious stone crab overboard…we think
it’s illegal…need to confirm. They tied up next to us and checked all our
passports plus the boat’s papers. One young guy with scary brown teeth
squatted on the deck cradling his machine gun. We have been told it is
a good idea to offer coffee or snacks to these guys during inspection.
And maybe have a bible in plain sight. So we keep a bible on board just
for that purpose…and…of course, the occasional margarita-inspired scripture
study.
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