More On Living In Joao Pessoa - Brazil's Best Kept Secret
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More On Living In Joao Pessoa
Brazil's Best Kept Secret
by Richard Conti
January 2006

We were so lucky last year while vacationing in Natal, Brazil. However, Natal had little to do with our luck as we were not all that impressed with the goings on there or the general area for that matter. After hearing so much about beautiful Northeast Brazil we had actually became a bit discouraged about what we had heard and read as none of it seemed to be true. We found most areas disorganized and in a state of disrepair to say the least. The beaches were crowded with annoying vendors that would not give in until you bought one of their trinkets and the place turned into a sex den in the evening when the sun went down. Not the kind of place you would want to stay in with your family or call home someday unless you liked that sort of thing.

Luckily and quite unexpectedly we had the opportunity to make a day trip to a city down the coast about 2 and 1/2 hours south of Natal. The city was quite a contrast to what we had been seeing in other cities. It was actually a breath of fresh air and as well organized a city as one could hope to find. The people were helpful, inviting and ever so pleasant. The city was a good size city of about 400,000 or more people but it retained that small town feeling and some areas were actually very quaint and inviting. The Center of Town (the Downtown) had a large lagoon surrounded by trees and when it was lit up at night it was spectacular. Along the lagoon were small shops and places to eat and sit and sip a Caparinia, a favorite Brazilian drink.

There are plenty of nice hotels on Cabo Branco Beach and in nearby areas in Joao Pessoa. It is an extremely easy city to get around unlike many other cities in Brazil. We did not even have to rent a car which can sometimes be expensive in Brazil and they all have standard shifts. An automatic is a rare find.

There was a great bus system in town and the buses were clearly labeled as well as numbered to make things even easier for us.

We also found an abundance of Taxi's at unbelievably cheap prices.

One of the best things we have found out about in Joao Pessoa is it's airport. You can fly into Joao Pessoa very easily and the airport is being renovated and changed to a new international airport as well. It is only a short 10 to 15 minute drive to any where you would like to go in the city. We only stayed for one day and then returned the next day for a day out, but what we saw we liked and so we wanted to see more. So reluctantly we had to leave and return to Natal to catch our flight back to Miami. All I could think about for about for a year was to return to this place and this time take my girlfriend, a Brazilian who lives in Boca Raton, Florida, and her son with me; they have never been to this part of Brazil. They come from Minas Gerais which is much further south and much different as well.

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Many Brazilians do not ever get to see what the other parts of Brazil have to offer as they do not venture too far from their cities unless traveling to the US and Europe.

I am amazed at how many Brazilians have heard of Joao Pessoa and it's wonders and natural beauty but have never been there. Even people I know from Recife which is only less then two hours away don't know about Joao Pessoa. It amazed me even more to discover how many Brazilians have never even heard about Joao Pessoa at all!!

Well we returned yet another time to Joao Pessoa within a year's time and this time with my girlfriend and her son. We flew from Minas Gerais, Belo Horizonte to Brasilia and then on to Recife where we stayed on the plane and then landed 20 minutes later in Joao Pessoa.

Compared to other airports in Brazil Joao Pessoa airport was a breeze to get through. In no time we found our frriend Fabio who was picking us up and had our bags and were on our way. What a difference from Sao Paulo and Miami!! It took us all of 15 minutes to arrive to our hotel: The Tropical Tambau, a really nice place and considered one of the best in town.

It was nice had great service but the place was a bit dated as time had taken it's toll on it through the years. Still in my opinion a nice hotel, but I have found out since that there are many, many hotels in the area as good or better and for less money.

Outside on the main avenue there were so many places to eat and shop you could hardly make up your mind. The streets were swept clean day and night and always very nice.

The people polite and friendly and the beaches never ever cowded as there are so many miles of beach with plenty of room for everyone to find their own spot.

The restaurants and small cafes that dotted the beach area were filled with happy people eating and drinking and having a good time. The prices were so inexpensive that you had to be careful not to give them to big of a bil (Reais) or they would have trouble making your change!!

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Food, what great food, Seafood, Picaniha (Brazilian Steak) rice, beans, deserts all anyone could want and so affordable we joked about it. My favorite was the Picaniha and the rice and beans.

They even had a nice selection of appetizers as well if you just wanted to sit, have a drink and just a bit to eat and pick on while sitting and looking at the Ocean. After having a huge breakfast buffet with everything imaginable served it took you quite a while to get your appetite going again.

My girlfriend and her son simply loved the place and that is very unusual for Brazilians to say .To them their city where they come from is always the best! Not this time they absolutely fell in love with Joao Pessoa as I did.

Love at first sight !!

We spent the most relaxing week we ever had in Joao Pessoa and really did not want to leave at all. We could have stayed a month without any problem at all. There is just something special about this place. It invites you, it welcomes you, it soothes you and it wants you to stay. Although there was a clear absence of Americans and even Europeans we were very welcome and felt very comfortable and at home there. I was probably more comfortable then I have felt in some places in The States. It actually reminded me very much what I would consider a nice beach town in the States, but unfortuantely I have not been able to find such a town in the States as they have all been built up and turned into very crowded tourist areas like many a city in Brazil as well.

They have a beautiful street that runs along the Ocean from Cabo Branco to Tambau and it is closed to traffic each morning from 6 to 8 AM for people to walk, jog, bicycle ride and exercise by the sea. As the sun rises in Joao Pessoa at 5 AM there are plenty of people out doing their thing each moring. The evening falls early about 5 PM as the Sun goes down and many people go to this little spot on the river on the other side of town where they sit and eat and have a drink, you guessed it capariha, and listen to this Sax player that is absolutely wonderful. He plays in the restaurant and then goes out on a boat and while standing in the boat continues to play for all to see, from the restaurants and passing tour boats. I guess that may be the last stop for the tour boats. The sunset is to die for as is the sunrise in Joao Pessoa.

At the end of the beach strip just passed Cabo Branco is Ponto do Seixas, a lightouse with a wonderful view of the sea and the city. It is the eastern most tip of land into the Atlantic in all of the Americas, North and South, a special place in a special city. South of the lighthouse is another area called penha which is less busy but what a spot to look for a piece of land to build a house. Not as busy as the other areas by far but close enough and far enough away for my tastes. Being born and raised in New York City I have looked and enjoyed spots like this  most of my life. Sure when I was younger I liked the spots with all the action going on but now that I am older, I still like that sort of thing once in a while but do not want to live in the middle of it any longer. Penha is not built up but I suspect it will become an exclusive residential area in the near future.

The prices for real estate in Brazil are not to be believed however: you either build your own place or get used to rooms that are considerably smaller then we are used to here. There are some rather large houses but they do cost more then the advertised 2 and 3 bedrooms that are actually very small by our standards. Construction costs are half of what they are here. And the quality has different ranges but the construction seems to be very good.

Joao Pessoa is not one of these party towns but it does have its places to go and even quite a few clubs for those that enjoy dancing and music. It start to settle down after 11 PM during the week and not much later then that on the weekend. I have never been out late in Joao Pessoa, but imagine the nightlife is good. To repeat Joao Pessoa is a great city, so great that I will be returning this month to look for a place for me and my family. I want to buy a piece of land we can build on and call our own!!

I will surely keep you aware of my findings as I look deeper into this wonderful place. I have only scartched the surface so far but the deeper I go the better it gets.

The following is the first article Richard wrote for the magazine:

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