| On The
Modern Silk Road |
| Traveling
An Ancient Trade Route |
| By Susan Boyoung |
| December
2005
Born in South
Korea and raised in America, I embody Eastern roots with Western views.
Traveling through China fulfilled part of my personal story, for in our
heritage lies a discovery that may answer some of our precious questions.
With a group of students from The Beijing Center, I traversed part of the
1,423 mile ancient Silk Road exploring the land, people, and places of
my root culture.
We began the
journey in Xi’an, where excavations of entire armies of full size terracotta
warriors and horses stand in battle formations. The realistic faces were
carved to reflect individual facial structure and expression of each warrior. |
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| Some were
pale, some tanned, and some the color of red mud, terracotta.
Those were real faces of our ancestors. In the city of Xi’an, a bustling
commercial hub, modern day people mirrored the ancient soldiers’ stoic
expressionless faces, pacing like soldiers as they filed to work each day.
Leaving
this eastern metropolis behind, we clambered back onto the bus and
headed west to Dunhuang, at the center of two major trade routes along
the Silk Road. Here ruins of 1,000 Buddhas, carved into the cliffs and
cave grottoes, fill the air with an ancient sense of wisdom.
In ancient
days, this town flourished with endless trails of horse and camel caravans,
laden with silk and spices. Traders and bargainers still gather
together, squawking at each other in the streets; natives still trepass
traverse the Gobi desert dunes, led by a single sliver of light from the
crescent moon. The people and the delicious smell of exotic spices call
to all who travel through. It was here that I really felt I had stepped
into a far off land, into an oasis of exotic headscarves, fruits, camel
statutes, and what looked like Turkish writing on signs, instead of Chinese
characters. |
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| The first
camel I laid eyes on was at the foot of the Great Wall, near some statues
of men in Middle Eastern garb. I said hello to the camel on the way
up, and when I finally made it to the top, I peered downwards at the brown
dot, still lying contentedly, while I struggled for my breath.
The wind
was playful. The farther up the Great Wall we climbed, my hair turned
into Medusa’s mane. Each tendril turned and twisted, whipped about by the
air.
“I should
have brought my inhaler,” I called down to my friend, who was lagging
behind me. I felt as though I were climbing stairs as the flat stones went
uphill. In some places there was no wall, so I just pretended it was still
there.
The stone felt
ancient, and omniscient. It wasn’t at all dead. |
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Offshore
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| There was
life to it; after all, it was still intact after all of these centuries.
The next
adventure was with our very own camels. Riding the camels through the
Gobi Desert was one of the highlights of the trip. At 5 a.m., it was pitch-black
and chilly when we arrived at the camel pick-up. The natives watched us
silently, while others, gestured at the camels, urging them to wake up.
The camels looked like creatures from a story by Dr. Seuss. They had big
eyes and looked as though they wore fake lashes. They batted their eyes,
still heavy with sleep. Their second hump was the hairiest; it looked like
an overgrown nest, or a top hat covered with brown fur, reaching to the
sky.
The people
had a sort of gypsy-like look. Maybe it was too dark to tell what they
really looked like, but they had dark smooth skin, and eyes like black
moons. They were amused at the Americans’ first experience mounting a camel.
Most of their teeth were crooked, but they smiled at us genuinely.
Some of the
camels made grunting noises as we were hoisted on their backs. Mine was
the runt of the group. |
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long eyelashes that made him look like a sleepy squirrel and a much smaller
bone structure than the rest. Maybe he was a she -anyway I named
him “Pet.” Like the rest of the camels, he was pretty docile. What
a life of service, I thought.
We made
it across the Gobi Desert in a caravan, each camel strung together by a
soft cord. From the end, Pet and I watched the caravan snake around
in the front. We watched the silhouettes of the camels trodding along next
to the dunes as the sky turned from charcoal gray into lighter and lighter
shades. The sunrise above the dunes was as spiritual as it was glorious.
It seemed to say everything would be all right, “O weary traveler.”
In contrast,
a few days later, we saw the sun set under the snow-capped Tian Shan, or
Heavenly Mountain, in Turpan. |
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| (did you
get the place name right? Turpan, or Turfan, is below sea level.
I don’t think you see Tian Shan there.) That night, we slept in the
tents of the Kazak people, called yurts. After a meal of lamb, instant
noodles, and an apple, we gathered around the fire, and listened to the
Kazaks, with their traditional instruments, and the Americans, all singing
songs they knew and marveling at each others’ ways.
Journeying
along the Silk Road, I had traveled with fresh eyes. I recognized that
physical struggle was what led to sharing joys of the trip with other people.
We Americans had walked a few rugged miles in the shoes of the Asians in
their own terrain. We are all different, but we bonded over simple necessities
- the simple joys of life - dinner followed by singing songs by a bonfire,
a sunset in the freezing mountains, a walk up the dunes of the Gobi Desert,
and a sunrise with the camels. Simple comforts bring the East and West
together with the same smile.
To contact
Susan Click Here |
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