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Finding And Eating The Best Cashews Money Can’t Buy!
Adventures In Panama
by Ernesto Mendiola
January 2005

It started as an after thought. After all, we were on our way home from visiting our future home site in Las Brisas del Frances, Boquete, to the town of Atalaya in the Province of Veraguas and still had several hours of driving time ahead of us.

Having had a killer thirst earlier, I had made the mistake of drinking not one but two, ice cold Pipas (coconut juice) from a roadside vendor just 20 minutes earlier and now Mother Nature was calling in the most urgent way. 

As we reached the turnoff to Playa Las Lajas my prayers were answered. A gas station, Potty Break!

I quickly pulled over and ran headlong into the restroom door as my wife (Tina) and family laughed hysterically.  It was locked. I frantically asked the attendant if I could use his facility to which he smiled and said, “Sure, that will be 25 cents please.” I quickly thrust my hands into my pockets looking for change. Not finding any, I pulled out a dollar bill from my wallet and put it on the counter while simultaneously grabbing the key. As the attendant started to protest my hurried departure I gave him a parting sideways glance and told him I’d be back for the change and to return his key. I think I heard him say to himself, “Gringos, always in such a hurry”.

Having taken care of business and feeling a lot more relaxed, the sign at the roadside intersection pointing to Playa Las Lajas caught my eye. I gestured to Tina non-verbally by using our cues of facial expressions consisting of nodding my head forward and pursing my lips (pointing) while gazing towards the sign and thereby asking her, do you want to go? The kids couldn’t see my face and so didn’t know I was suggesting a beach detour.

A good thing in case the wife vetoed the idea. She shrugged noncommittally as if to say “Sure, you’re driving”. As is almost always the case with our excursions, another detour off the beaten path. The road to the beach was a little bumpy as I wasn’t able to navigate the truck around all the potholes or the over filled ‘fixed’ potholes in the road. Sometimes I just had to decide which would produce the lesser groan from the shock absorbers and tires as well as my kidneys. Not that I’m complaining, asphalt is good even when it’s a little bumpy. The majority of the road way was in good repair so we got there quickly.

After having passed through the small village of Las Lajas we were soon driving past fruit laden trees that lined both sides of the road and formed the fence line of the pastures and farms along the way. I asked Tina what kind of fruit trees they were. She told me they were ‘Marañónes’ to which I responded with a blank stare.

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She said it again and looked at me like I was crazy. Didn’t I know what Marañónes were? Then she said, “You know ‘pepitas secas’. Now you need to understand, when my wife says ‘pepitas secas’ the only thing I’ve found it means is ‘dried nuts’. OK, dried nuts, what kind of nuts? We have these discussions all the time. Spanish is my second language and unfortunately for us English is her second language so we find ourselves at a loss for the ‘proper’ word a lot.

After a five minute dissertation on what kind of dried nut she is talking about and my still not having a clue she finally says, ‘You know…the roasted nuts you like to buy from the roadside venders’. Oooohhh, I say, Cashews!  Right, Cashews. Wow, I’ve never seen a cashew tree before. What the heck is that bell pepper shaped fruit all about I ask. She tells me its part of the cashew, well not really, but the cashew nut (seed) grows underneath it on the outside of the fruit itself. Then she asks me if I remember the ‘chicha’ (natural fruit drink) I drank in Boquete earlier in the day. Of course I reply. Then she gives me the pursed lips look and the bells start ringing in my head. Yes, of course, the drink I had…Chicha de Marañón. We continue on to the beach and are there in a few minutes.

We hadn’t planned on going to the beach when we started on this outing so consequently no one had swim suits or towels. Even though the beach was beautiful, after a couple of minutes of kicking sand around and walking a few hundred yards we got bored with the place.  It was, after all, the middle of the week and there was no one else around but by the looks of all the palapas lining the beach and bar/disco setup nearby this looks like a pretty lively place during the weekends and holidays.

We all piled back into the truck and start heading back to the main road. When we reached the Marañónes again I ask the kids if they want to pick some to take home. Everyone says yes in unison. It seems there are hundreds if not thousands of the cashew seeds on the ground. About half are seeds only as birds and other critters have eaten the fruit or the sun and time has devoured it to nothing.

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We start to collect only the seeds, as my wife tells me she isn’t in the mood to make more chicha. She warns me not to get the juice from the fruit on my clothes as I pull the fruit and seeds apart as they will permanently stain my clothes.

We lost our minds collecting the seeds. Before long we had collected approximately two 10-kilo sacks worth of cashews. Whew…what a workout. Bending down to pick up handfuls of cashew seeds and moving on to more soon had us all perspiring up a storm. We used bottled water to wash our hands of the cashew fruit’s juice and were soon on our way. Throughout all this, it still hadn’t occurred to me to ask how or what we were going to do with all these seeds. My wife knew, but she wasn’t talking. When I finally did ask she would only say, “You’ll see”.

We arrived in Atalaya about an hour before nightfall. After getting the seeds into the backyard my wife asked our daughter Jenifer to go next door to her grandmother’s house and ask to borrow ‘la paila’. Jenifer soon returned with ‘la paila’. It turns out ‘la paila’ was an old beat up and blackened Ford hubcap. I asked what we were going to do with a hubcap. As an answer, Tina asked me to go to the orange tree and cut two long 1-inch thick branches off of it. Then she thrust the machete in my hands and sent me on my way all the while telling me to quit asking so many questions as we had work to do and were losing the light of day.

While I was massacring the orange tree, Tina started a fire with wood from the backyard. She had set up an area away from all the outbuildings with rocks to form an outdoor hearth and put some discarded rebar over the fire to form a grate. Then she placed the hubcap on the rebar over the fire. Once the hubcap started to smoke she filled it halfway with some of the cashew seeds we had collected.

Pretty soon with the intensity of the fire the cashew shells were smoking and sputtering oil. Tina gave me one of the branches I had chopped and cleaned up and told me to mix the cashews around in the hubcap. While I’m mixing, the cashews are spitting and sputtering in the hot oil. I asked Tina how she knows when the cashews are cooked and ready. Again, she tells me to be patient and that I’ll see. When the cashews are nice and hot, Tina puts her branch end in the fire and ignites it. Then she touches the flame on the branch to the cashews. The oil on the outer shells ignites and now one heck of blaze is going. I’m looking around for a fire extinguisher, which we don’t have handy. Tina tells me to calm down and continue swirling the nuts in the hubcap. When the outer shells are thoroughly blackened Tina takes her branch, reaches underneath the hubcap and flings it up and away from us as the nuts go sailing through the air.

Fire goes everywhere. Quick! She commands me to douse the nuts with dirt/water and turn the fire out.  Then we go about collecting all the still hot cashew shells and put them into a bowl where we let them cool off. I look at Tina and ask her if we have any nutcrackers in the house. She says, “Maybe, but there are plenty outside”.  She smiles and points at some medium sized rocks. I tell her she’s crazy and go look for the nutcracker.

By the time I get back she has already started lightly pounding the cashew shells with a rock against a cinder block. She is shelling three nuts to my one. I gave up on the nutcracker and grabbed a rock. Hey, don’t laugh! It actually was quicker and I was able to pull the nut out whole.

When we were done, we cleaned up and went out on the veranda and lay in the two-person hammock while we munched on still warm, freshly roasted cashews. As we were enjoying the pepitas secas, I asked about the rest of our horde of cashews. Tina smiled, and says, “We are going to roast them later and make a ‘dulce’ (Panamanian fruitcake) like my grandmother used to make. We talked about the how to’s of this fruitcake as we continued to eat the pepitas but that story is for another time.

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