| Tendong
Hill |
| Unfolding
The Himalayan Folklore |
| December
2005
India is the
land of a million Gods and a billion mortals. Here legend is a part of
history and faith is unquestioned, thus I begin my journey in search of
a folktale, where the entire human race was saved from the wrath of Gods
when they took refuge in a mountain. I am heading for Tendong Hill in Sikkim.
Sikkim is tucked
in the North Eastern part of India and is surrounded by Nepal, Tibet (China)
and Bhutan. It is overlooked by the mighty Himalayas and its guardian deity
is the third highest mountain in the world - Mt. Khanchendzonga.
Tendong
Hill - The Lepcha Myth |
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Some hundreds
of years ago, the Lepchas (local Sikkimese tribe) had to face the rage
of Gods for some reason. The mighty Himalayan Gods thought of punishing
them and thus masterminded the plan to drown the entire world in a Great
Flood.
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Folklore has
it, that Tendong Hill (a dormant volcano) saved the Lepcha Tribe from the
ravages of the deluge. The Lepchas took refuge at Tendong and since then
Tendong has become their savior. Even today, the Lepchas pay their homage
to Tendong Hill. |
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| This Lepcha
folklore's startling resemblance with Noah's Ark and Mt. Ararat makes one
wonder.We are heading for this mystery-draped peak.
Getting
There
Damthang (1650
mts.)is the starting point of this 6 km long Tendong peak trek.You would
not find a decent place to stay at Damthang, so staying at Ravangla or
Namchi is advised.
Why Stay
At Ravangla
Ravangla is
a sleepy Himalayan town overlooked by the Khanchendzonga range.Modest hotels,
a few authentic Tibetan Restaurants with bars and telephone booths and
the beauty of the mountains are what you will find in Ravangla.Some of
the reasons to choose Ravangla as your base to move around Southern Sikkim
are: |
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You can witness
a heavenly sunrise over the Khanchendzonga Range
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It is quite well
connected to other parts of Sikkim and has a well organised Taxi stand.
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It serves as the
most convenient place to collect your supplies and arrange guides for two
of the best treks in Sikkim - the Mainam Hill Trek and Tendong Hill trek.
Before you start
the grueling trek you can take a day off to stroll around the streets of
Ravangla, visit Temi Tea Garden, Ravangla Monastery and Samdruptse Monastery
at Namchi. The breathtaking sunrise over the Eastern Himalaya is more cherished
from Shankar viewpoint, which is around 8 kms. from Ravangla. A couple
of idle days at Ravangla can prove to be a refreshing experience.
The Trek
Tendong Hill
is at an altitude of 2640 mts. (8660 ft). From the peak, the panoramic
view of the entire eastern Himalayas is astounding. |
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| Nowhere in
Sikkim allows such a view of the entire range. Tendong Hill is located
within a lush green ancient forest (now a designated Wildlife Sanstuary)
rich in wildlife and spectacular flora. More than 90 species of birds,
Himalayan Bears, leopards and illusive Red Pandas inhabit this forest.
The thick canopies of trees make the vines and smaller trees yearn for
sunlight. The six-kilometer trek through this dense damp forest comprising
oak, pine, fir, chestnut, magnolia, rhododendron and abundant flowers,
moss, giant ferns and creepers. Everyone struggles with each other to get
a foothold on the forest floor.
We left Ravangla
at 7:00 am, which is an hour's distance from Damthang. Damthang resembles
any other Himalayan village with a few grocery stores, a primary school,
some scattered houses, Lamas (Buddhist monks) walking briskly and
a bus stop. The Tendong Trek begins right near the Damthang road crossing
which borders the Forest. |
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| As usual,
there was no one at the forest check post and we did not bother to search
for a guide. A couple of days back, we were told in a local restaurant
that the Tendong trail has been recently paved, so we would not require
a guide. That was far from the truth!
The first 1.5
kms. was easy going for us, then suddenly the paved footpath came to an
abrupt end. No more roads and nowhere to go! The trail had simply vanished
into the thick undergrowth. We had no other choice but to retreat. Halfway
down, we found two local Lepcha kids collecting firewood. On inquiring,
whether the trail had been closed or not, they assured that they had seen
the Lamas heading for the monastery that morning. Upon request, they readily
agreed to show us the way to the peak. So, we started off again from square
one.
It was 10:30am
now, but the weather was still clear. In these parts, frequent rains are
not unusual. After reaching the point from where the footpath had ended,
Preetam - the younger kid, cleared the undergrowth and showed us a trail.
From this point onwards, the leisurely trek turned nightmarish. We started
gaining elevation rapidly - within the next 3 kms we reached the 8000 ft
mark. As we neared the core area of the forest, Buddha - the oldest kid,
instructed us to stay together. This area is frequented by leopards. On
our way up, Buddha showed us the caves where the Lamas used to meditate
for years in absolute recluse.
At 2:00pm we
reached the peak and found the crater of the dead volcano. A three-storey
Watch Tower and a two room Monastery stand on the peak. The 360 degree
view from this watch tower is unique; you feel like you're sitting in the
center of a huge amphitheatre. The mighty Himalayas are all around you.
To the east, you can see the entire Chola range, and to the West, the Singalila
range and the towering Khanchendzonga. To the northeast, you will find
the Pauhunri peak with its surrounding peaks. Darjeeling, Gyalsing, Nathula
Pass, a part of Gangtok and the rolling plains of north Bengal can all
be seen from here.
The view from
Tendong peak is awesome. The sun's rays glisten on the towering peaks while
the rivers far below look like silver strings. Suddenly, rain slashes over
the plains at a distance and a rainbow appears from nowhere. Its tempting
to linger but remember it takes another two hours to return.
Reaching
Ravangla
Ravangla is
120 kms from Siliguri and 125 kms from New Jalpaiguri. Overnight train
journey from Howrah Station - the main railhead of Calcutta / Kolkata will
get you to New Jalpaiguri. Calcutta is well connected to the capital city
of New Delhi with regular flights and trains.
It takes 4
hrs in a private jeep taxis from New Jalpaiguri to Ravangla and is reasonably
priced at INR2000.00 (USD47). Shared taxis and buses are also available.
The nearest airport to New Jalpaiguri is Bagdora and regular flights from
Calcutta (Kolkata) and weekly flights from Delhi are available.
Staying
At Ravangla
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Hotel Maenam
la Address: Kewzing Road, Phone: +91 03592 263861 / 264444 / 260666
Tariff (AP): INR500 (USD12) to INR3500 (USD82) per night (Service tax@10.22
percent extra) Facilities: Restaurant, Bar, Travel desk, Room Service,
Doctor on call, TV, attached bath, running hot and cold water. Email: meanamla@hotmail.com
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Hotel Zumthang
Address:
Ravangla Bazaar (Near Power Guest house) Phone: +91 03592 260870 Tariff
(AP): INR500 (USD12) to INR1050 (USD25) per night (Service tax@10.22 percent
extra) Facilities: Restaurant, Bar, Travel desk, Room Service, Doctor on
call, TV, attached bath, running hot and cold water. Email: wangbhutia@rediffmail.com
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Mt. Narsingh
village Resort Address: 15th Mile, P.O. Ravangla (on Pelling-Pemyangtse
Highway) Phone: +91 03592 226822 Tariff (AP): INR550 (USD13) to INR1250
(USD30) Facilities: Restaurant, Bar, Travel desk, Room Service, Doctor
on call, TV, attached bath, running hot and cold water. Email: takapa@sancharnet.in
Note: Verify
the tariff and other facilities. They are subject to change
Mountain
Peaks Of Sikkim
The two principal
mountain ranges are Singalila and Chola. The Singalila range on the west
defines the boundary between Sikkim and Nepal and the Chola Range on the
east forms a part of the border between Sikkim and Tibet (China). The boundary
between Sikkim and Bhutan is defined by the low altitude Pangolia Range.
Peaks above 20,000 ft in the Singalila Range are Mt. Khanchendzonga (28,168
ft) - the third highest mountain in the world, Mt. Koktang (20,168 ft),
Mt.Rathong (22,100 ft), Mt.Pandim (22,100 ft), Mt. Kabru (24,215 ft), Mt.Talung
(24,200 ft), Mt. Simvo (22,476 ft), Mt. Siniolchu (22,600 ft). The most
impressive peak in the Chola range is Mt. Paunhri (22,000 ft). Other imposing
peaks in Sikkim below the 20,000 ft mark are Mt. Mashthonangye, Mt. Yabukjakchen,
Mt. Narsigh and Mt. Lamaongden.
Tips For
Trekking In Sikkim
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These tips would
be handy if you are trekking in any part of Sikkim:
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Leeches are a
nuisance in Sikkim. So always carry Salt and lime wherever you go.
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The variation
in altitude in this little State of just 7,096 sq. km ranges from sea level
to 28,168 ft. The terrain is extremely rugged and you will gain a lot of
elevation within a few kms. Its always advisable to acclimatize before
taking high altitude treks.
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Medicines to treat
altitude sickness is a must
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Always arrange
for a guide. Landslides and avalanches are common in Sikkim so trails often
change and maps become useless.
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Smoking is prohibited
in Buddhist Monasteries.
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Trekking season
in Sikkim is March to May and September to November. For low altitude treks
March and April are great especially if you are fond of Rhododendron flowers.
However, this time of the year is not that suitable for high altitude treks
(above 4,500 mts) because the winter snow persists. Rainy season (May-July)
should be avoided as landslides are common and the forests are closed,
even peaks are not visible.
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All non-Indian
nationals opting to trek should arrange for their Inner Line permits and
permissions from the Tourism Department at Gangtok, Sikkim (Tourism Deptt.,
Govt. of Sikkim, MG Marg, Ph.: +91 03592 221634, Website: www.sikkim.nic.in)
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After a few mishaps,
the Sikkim Govt. has made it mandatory for all non-Indian nationals who
want to trek to report to the Tourism office and get their Govt. affiliated
guides. Mostly, Sherpas and Lepchas, these guides are extremely reliable
and would arrange for all your supplies and take care of all aspects of
trekking. They simply know the mountains like the back of their hands.
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Non-Indian nationals
are not required to take permission for low altitude treks and guides and
porters are available if the respective hotels are contacted..
To contact Arijit:
Click
Here
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