Karachi Exposed
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Karachi Exposed
A One On One With This Truly Vivacious City! 
December 2005

Karachi to me symbolizes the true self - a persona without makeup. Even though it is a city raging with newer developments, its true splendor is reminiscent in its culture, the climate, its bazaars, the beaches and even the fruit and vegetable vendors hooked at every corner of the street. 

As I make my way into Karachi’s extravagant Jinnah International Airport, I hear announcements in my native language; on the signs above me, directions are also in Urdu, not only English. I see people attired in traditional clothing. At that moment, I begin to feel conscious of myself in jeans and my general tendency is to gently stretch my shirt downwards, ensuring that it’s long enough for Pakistani standards.

A duty to conform to cultural etiquettes instantly evolves within me.I am truly overwhelmed by the nature of the place despite not yet being fully exposed to its exterior.
 
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Visiting the local bazaars in Karachi is an experience. On entering the bazaar, I am besieged by an array of shops, all approximately the same size, aligned vertically against each other. Each one sells its own unique collection of jewellery, materials and cosmetics. As I try to enter the congested alleyways, I am called on by a host of shopkeepers, “Baji Ajao” (Come Sister!)

Each one insists that his selections of items are the best and most reasonably priced compared to the others. As the tension builds up, I feel the heat rays of the intense lighting, within the already bombarded alleyway. I can feel droplets of sweat bursting out of every pore on my face. I also begin to note the squealing sound of the rusted, overworked fans, barging out from the ceilings, above me.

Exhausted, by the scorching heat of the bazaars, my friends and I stop for a glass of chilled Lassi (A traditional, thirst quenching beverage consisting of cold milk, yogurt, sugar and lots of ice.) Refreshed, we once again continue our insatiable hunt within the bazaar, in the hope of finding a reasonable buy. The stores are assailed by females of all ages, however shockingly so the elderly ladies are the ones bargaining for hours on end, negotiating and arguing with sellers, until their bids are finally approved.

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Surely, if a woman doesn’t have an aptitude for bargaining she would most probably be ripped off. Each shop is very similar in form and content and is not identified by a distinct logo/brand image. In such a scenario, the shopkeeper is the real marketer and his body language and sales technique is pivotal to the amount he sells. 

Tariq Road, Gulf Tower and Zainab Market are a few of the many bazaar zones in the city. But if the experience proves a little too intense for you, I say start off with the hip malls. The Point and The Forum in Clifton are the most recent developments - fully air-conditioned and compact, they are typical of most western malls.

Karachi is a town of weddings! Many are lavish and comprise hundreds of people.Numerous ceremonies take place prior to the actual wedding, which serve to build the zeal and vibrancy of the atmosphere. Traditional folk music, the brightly lit grounds and the enthusiastic crowds all make the weddings an absolute delight to attend. 

Shortly after the arrival of the guests, the bride and groom make their grand entrance. 

Seeing them hand in hand, in the midst of it all, makes the entire event even more cohesive and ads that extra tinge of excitement, to the already vivacious gathering. Both bride and groom are dressed to perfection in their intricate wedding attire. Shortly after dinner is announced, I can barely wait to lay my hands on the variety of hot curry specialties accompanied with piping tandoori Nan.

A foreigner would note all sorts of events, while driving along the streets of Karachi - situations that would most likely be overlooked by a local. Karachi would not be Karachi, without its billboards; the city is swarmed with them. The best ones can be seen on major roundabouts and intersections – apparent in all sizes and colours.

The roads do not only include cars, but there are all forms of transportation systems.

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Ranging from horse-carts, minivans, rickshaws and last but not least, the adorned buses, containing people lurching out of its every corner. The roads are packed with pedestrians, sellers and beggars. The moment I roll down the car window, I can hear the constant beeps of the car horns, the roaring sound of the rickshaws and at times faintly smell the pollution.  And if ever, I consider buckling myself up, people within passing vehicles stare at me in bewilderment!

Before going to bed in Karachi, I ensure that my room is sprayed with extra strength pesticide. (Can’t recall the brand, but the lethal content was at the time available in a full-sized red bottle labeled with bold dark lettering. It’s the most sought after pesticide bought by my family to kill bugs and other flying creatures). Once however, despite performing my obligatory duty of daily spraying, I was approached by a cockroach in the wee hours of the morning, lying on the rear end of my pillow. It scared the living daylights out of me! It couldn’t have been the fault of the disinfectant; it’s usually extremely effective; I’m almost positive that a window was left open. 

Sunset in Karachi is a beautiful sight. Our family apartment lies opposite the Arabian Sea and gives me a perfect view of the dawn and dusk. As I stand by the balcony at around 6:00 am, I am taken aback by nature’s charm. The birds chirp, the seagulls flutter their wings against the sun burnt rocks, and the fishermen gather around a discrete area of the shore in hope of catching their daily prey. All the melodrama is accompanied by the background harmony of the horses, galloping their hooves against the soft morning sand. 

The passing fish trucks particularly assault my senses. Although this is a distraction, it is never a hindrance to my pleasure in nature. I lightly cover my nose and mouth with my dupatta (a scarf-like garment worn by Pakistani women) and after about twenty seconds or so remove it and rekindle my communion with nature. 

There is no better place to go fishing/crabbing than Karachi. Why? You don’t have to catch the fish if you don’t feel like. You can definitely try, but you won’t stay hungry if you’re repeated efforts remain unsuccessful - the fishermen are part of the package! We managed to rent a boat from Keamari – Karachi’s harbour. Relax and enjoy the open sky and serene waves, while your guide catches and cooks you some fresh fish stew in a matter of minutes! If you want to go a mark higher, I suggest visit Creek Club - a private boat club in the sub municipality of defense - offering boating in the creek areas. 

The natural wonders are enlightening, but Karachi also contains numerous restaurants and top-notch cafes, all opening at a rapid pace. The all famous Zamzama in Clifton, is a street famous for its contemporary shoes, boutiques and trendy dining. 

In addition, there are ample architectural hotspots worth taking a peek at – my all time favourites are: Mahata Palace, Mazar-E-Quaid and Frere Hall. And five star accommodation is not a problem - hotels including Marriott, Sheraton and Pearl Continental are located just minutes away from the city centre.

For those still not familiar with Karachi, it is imperative that you perceive it with an open mind. Some things in life can “appear” overwhelming at first glance – Karachi may appear so to some. But it does slowly and gradually release itself – and unleash that veiled charisma. Give it some time - it’s definitely a charmer!

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