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Sensational Sydney
Falling In Love With Sydney
by Dawnelle Salant
December 2005

Sydney, Australia

Sydney!I really, really love Sydney. This line, from the slightly tacky commercial advertising Australia’s biggest city, has an irrefutable ring of truth to it. I, personally, really, really do love Sydney. Besides having one of the most famous and spectacular harbors in the world, Sydney truly has a multicultural and cosmopolitan vibe. The city embraces visitors with a welcoming passion that incorporates them into its daily life. There is so much to see and do here, and I’ll get to that, but one of the best things about Sydney is simply hanging out in stunning locales.

One of my favorite things to do in Sydney is walk around the harbor at Circular Quay. It’s hard to get your fill of the relaxed excitement that surrounds the area. Your eyes can feast on the views of the city’s north shore, the Harbor Bridge, Luna Park and the Opera House. The sunshine, laughter and street performers never fail to lift one’s spirits, and just strolling around watching the changing groups of people is entertainment in itself. 

No one seems to rush here; the harbor has a certain magic that drains the tension from your muscles. At night it’s almost more enchanting; the sparkling lights and twinkling water capture your imagination. Do yourself a favor and spend lots of time here. Have lunch at one of the many waterside cafes, or come back at night for a drink at the Opera House bar. This is the heart of Sydney – for both locals and tourists.

The Sydney Opera House is undoubtedly the most famous landmark on the harbor. Its daring architecture sets it apart from all other performing arts centers. On any given day, the platform surrounding the world famous structure is filled with tourists taking endless photos from every possible angle. But don’t be fooled. As wonderful as the Opera House looks from the outside, it’s only half the picture.

The Opera House is even more enchanting on the inside.

Don’t make the mistake of viewing this Australian icon from only the outside. There’s a reason it’s known as the busiest performing arts center in the world; the myriad of performances that take place within its walls. One of the best ways to sneak a peek at the interior is to take in a show.

The Opera Theatre hosts around 2,500 performances a year. Eight months of the year is devoted to opera, and ballet dancers grace the stage for three months. The Opera Theatre has a capacity of 1,507 and seats range in price from $217 to $50 (Australian Dollars). 

This theater is unique for several reasons. You’ll undoubtedly notice the small stage.

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It’s so small that when a ballet is being performed, someone must wait in the wings to catch the ballet dancers if they go too far, and push them back onto center stage. The black walls and ceiling might peak your interest as well, and they are there for a reason. Once the lights go down, there is nothing to distract you from what is taking place on stage. 

The Concert Hall is perhaps the most impressive. The world’s largest mechanical organ graces the back wall, and the interior is finished entirely in timber. In the Concert Hall, it’s all about sound. The white birch and brushbox act as a sponge, absorbing the sound. A concertina effect on the ceiling and zig zag protrusions on the box seats help to perfect the acoustics. The Sydney Symphony performs here on a regular basis, with seats ranging in price from $89 to $45. 

The Concert Hall does go beyond classical music and a very diverse range of acts have appeared on its stage. You might be surprised to learn that comedian Billy Connolly, Arnold Schwarzenegger, and Pavarotti have performed here. It’s the perfect setting for any show!

If you don’t have the time or money to take in a show, the Opera House also offers guided tours. Lasting one hour, the tour leads you through the highlights of the performing arts center and lets you experience the magic that is the Sydney Opera House. Tours cost $23 and leave every half hour between 9-5. But get there early – in the afternoon some of the theaters are closed to the public for matinee performances.

While we’re at it, we might as well touch on the other impressive feature of the harbor – The Harbor Bridge.

The massive “coat hanger”, as it’s lovingly known, joins the north and south shores at their narrowest point. It’s not exactly pretty, but the bridge’s sheer size and improbable shape make it a wondrous sight. Again, don’t just take a picture of it and move on to the next tourist attraction–experience the bridge up close and personal.

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The easiest and cheapest way to do this is to simply walk across it. It takes about twenty minutes each way. 

You can also climb to the top of the southeast pylon. Inside the Pylon Lookout, a vertical museum detailing the history of the bridge breaks up your climb to the top. The views make the climb worthwhile – you’ll find yourself looking straight down at the Opera House, greatly diminished by your height. A completely different perspective of the bridge is your other reward, as you stare straight onto the upward slope of the bridge. You can climb the bridge itself, but this is fairly expensive and takes around three hours of hard work. And you can’t even bring your camera.

East of the Opera House lies another of Sydney’s jewels – the Royal Botanic Gardens. Sprawling green lawns, flower beds, abundant bird life and plants from the South Pacific make the gardens a unique and relaxing place. Take your time as you stroll along, and don’t ignore the signs spotted around the gardens; they explain much of the plant life.

Don’t be alarmed if you notice any of the gardens’ slightly scary winged residents. Thousands of grey headed flying foxes, otherwise known as bats, live here. You’ll undoubtedly notice multitudes of them sleeping in the tree tops, with the occasional few swooping around for a look-see.

These flying foxes have a 1.5 meter wing span and can grow up to 1 kg. They are rather frightening looking, but fascinating at the same time. They won’t come near you, and once I got used to their presence, I found myself straining on my tiptoes for a better look at one of the many bats hanging upside down, sound asleep, unaware of the gawking tourists. It’s hard to imagine so many bats living in the centre of the biggest city on the continent.

Just west of the harbor lies one of Sydney’s most likeable areas; The Rocks. Cobbled lanes lined with gift shops, jewelry stores, overflowing pubs and delicious smelling eateries make up the majority of this oldest section of Sydney. On weekends, the Rocks Markets on George Street is the perfect place to pick up a few souvenirs or gifts. The items you find here are pricier than you’d expect to find at a street market, but you’re paying for genuine quality. Stands sell everything from traditional Aboriginal didgeridoos and boomerangs, to homemade fudge, photo albums and soap. Jewelry and photos are also plentiful.

After dark, head for the Sydney Observatory. Located on a hilltop in The Rocks, it provides more great views of the bridge. If you want to participate in one of the nightly star gazing experiences, make sure to book ahead. Inside, you’ll take a journey through the history of astronomy while you wait for the night sky to darken. An astronomer will guide you through a model of the night sky, projected onto the underside of a huge umbrella-like dome for authenticity.  He points out various constellations and reveals the story behind them. 

The highlight of the night is gazing at stars through a high powered telescope sheltered by a huge dome on top of the observatory. Have a close encounter with Venus and see if you can pick out craters on the moon.  Children and adults both benefit from this out of world experience.

Sydney’s CBD, or Central Business District, bustles with the perpetual movement of a city constantly in action. George Street and Pitt Street run perpendicular to the harbor and are the two main streets of interest to tourists.  On George Street, the Queen Victoria Building (QVB) is an entire city block of high class stores in a Byzantine style building. 

The Pitt Street Mall, including the Strand Arcade, is a shopper’s paradise, and the Sydney Tower is accessible from here. It’s definitely worth your time to head up to the top. Before ascending, Oz Trek, a virtual tour of Australia, takes you on a rapid exploration of Australia. Fly over Uluru, splash down into the Great Barrier Reef and bounce with kangaroos. Just make sure you hold on – the seats move in time with what you are seeing!

From the top of the Tower, on a clear day, you can see the whole city, and all the way out to the Blue Mountains. The only disappointment here is the Opera House – the view is partially blocked. Guides walk around pointing out various locations, and explain the sights and history of the city in more detail. Make sure you stop and listen for awhile; you’ll learn things about Sydney you never knew. 

Afterwards, wander down George Street and have a look at the exquisite Town Hall. From here, follow Park Street and make your way to Hyde Park; a respite from the commotion of the CBD. It’s hard to believe the city is only a few blocks away. Bring a blanket and spread it out on the grass like so many others do.

At the corner of Park Street and College Street sits the Australian Museum. Various temporary exhibitions take up most of the first floor, and although they’re not always Australia related, they are usually worth a look. Recent exhibitions include Ancient Egypt and Super Croc.

The permanent exhibitions include Dreamtime, a display detailing Aboriginal history. On Sundays, indigenous performances take place throughout the day. Dancers dressed in traditional Aboriginal attire, including white face paint, perform customary dances while a didgeridoo player provides background music. The Australian wildlife gallery is a real treat, with stuffed animals and birds from all over the country. A truly dazzling collection of gemstones, minerals and crystals is also on display. It’s enough to make any woman drool!

After you’ve had your fill of the museum, head back out onto Park Street. It eventually turns into William Street, which leads directly to Kings Cross. The huge, flashing neon Coca Cola sign, a Sydney icon, signals your arrival in this seedy district. Darlinghurst Street is where you want to be – if you’re looking for one of the many strip joints and sex shops, or prostitutes and drugs. 

That said, there are also many trendy restaurants here and endless backpackers. A few good nightclubs, like Moulin Rouge, and pubs packed with travelers, make Kings Cross a good place for a big night out. This is definitely the cheapest place to access the internet – some places charge only $3 per hour, a real bargain in Sydney.

If you find the Rocks Market too expensive, head to Chinatown and visit Paddy’s Markets. The indoor market is one of Sydney’s biggest and busiest, and it’s a must see. You’ll find plenty of Australiana here, from cheap t-shirts, koala teddy bears and plastic road signs, to can openers made out of kangaroo scrotum. If you’re looking for a fake Louis Vuitton handbag or Von Dutch t-shirts and hats, you’re in the right place. Quality takes a side seat here to inexpensive clothing designed to imitate high fashion. 

You can find almost anything you need here – wigs, mobile phones, socks and underwear galore and all kinds of footwear. And don’t leave out the fruit and vegetable section– the best mangoes I ever sunk my teeth into came from Paddy’s Markets. You don’t pay a fortune for fresh produce here, so stock up.

The markets are open Thursday to Sunday, but avoid the weekends if you can. You’ll spend more time fighting the crowds than you will actually shopping. Before you leave Chinatown, grab a bite to eat. The food choices here are superb, from simple noodle shops to full restaurants serving yum cha and five course meals.

Many tourists make the mistake of not leaving the CBD and general tourist areas. We stayed in North Sydney, across the bridge and opposite the Opera House. Vibe, a funky, modern hotel located right across from Milson’s Point train station, has great views of the city – from “the other direction”. Additionally, it has its own restaurant and buffet breakfast. It’s close enough to the city to be convenient, but just far enough away to escape the crowds and late night noise. Besides, every time you take the train to the hotel – you get to ride across the Harbor Bridge. 

If you still haven’t had your fill of shopping, heading to Oxford Street in Paddington. A popular market takes place here every weekend and has plenty to offer. Souvenirs aren’t really sold here, but you can find fossils of Australian creatures, gemstones, fresh flowers and handicrafts. Handmade jewelry is everywhere – from cheap bangles to quality pieces. One stand allows you to put any saying onto a t-shirt, or you can choose from one of their entertaining slogans.

The rest of Oxford Street is packed with plenty of designer shops, concept stores and Australian chain stores such as Sportsgirl and Cotton On. Cafes, pubs, salons and restaurants make their usual appearance. Last but not least, Oxford Street is also known for its nightlife – clubs and bars line the busy street. Your only dilemma is which bar to choose – and how long to stay out!

The following is a list of articles that Dawnelle has written for the magazine:

To contact Dawnelle Click Here

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