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Television In Latin America
Postcards From Costa Rica
by Kevin Barker
December 2005

San Jose, Costa Rica

SAN JOSE - The theme of the lonely Tico is a popular one in Costa Rica media. The last time I checked, the Teatro Nacional had commissioned an original play called ‘Un Tico A Pesar’, (a Tico to pity) which was produced at the flagship theatre’s secondary venue in downtown San Jose. 

The theme was an ordinary Joe who takes a vacation but gets into trouble because he is so unaccustomed to having time off he doesn’t know what to do with it.

The theme arose again for me when I tuned in to La Pension, a local sitcom produced by Channel 7. It’s a sort of Costa Rican Melrose Place, but with the broad physical comedy of On The Buses, in which the main characters all live together in a boarding house, or pension, and just can’t seem to stop getting enmeshed in each other’s lives.

In the last episode I watched as they all went to the beach for a weekend (I think it was Jaco, on the country’s mid Pacific coast) and unhappily ended up in adjoining rooms, where their individual character flaws led them into the usual peck of trouble. (Incidentally I couldn’t help but notice the main difference between La Pension and Melrose Place - and especially On the Buses  - lies in the sexiness of the two youngest female members of the cast, who look especially fetching in bikinis. They have a genuine sexiness, unlike their U.S. pseudo television counterparts)

But it was interesting to note that unlike the retirees and PT’s (perpetual tourists) and assorted extranjeros who coagulate at places like Jaco, the characters in La Pension seemed more or less indifferent to their exotic surroundings. In fact, they seemed incapable of going out and enjoying it.

This may stem either from their over familiarity with the place in question, or general inexperience with leisure. It was certainly essential to the episode’s plot, which had more to do with the interaction of the characters (of course) than the surroundings. But the point is this: The more Costa Ricans seek to understand and even emulate their guests, they less they seem to understand them. This has led to a kind of malaise in the culture here, where you have some -actually quite a few – aggressively pursuing the American dream of house and career and two cars in the garage (and apparently ending up miserable because of it), and the rest who seem to feel as though their countrymen are forging ahead and leaving them behind.

The net result is a kind of alienation felt by many young people, articulated recently by a young friend of mine went he confessed he ‘feels like a stranger’ in his own country.

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I think a growing number of Ticos feel that way, which is odd because I always thought that alienation was a particularly North American disease. Apparently it isn’t, or perhaps we’re merely spreading it throughout the world. I decided to test this and other theories recently during a short business trip to South America. At the moment everyone seems to be hot on Buenos Aires: it’s cheap, it’s beautiful, it’s the Paris of South America. In fact I’ve been promising my readers for months to go down and visit it (and I will, just not today!). I have no doubt that B.A. is all of those things, but by the time your Aunt Phyllis starts to talk about it the gringos have undoubtedly arrived, and it has to be all downhill from there.

Anyway I usually believe the opposite of what I hear from my own countrymen here in the Center of the Americas. This stems from an experience I had years ago when I visited Puerto Vallarta without a hotel reservation, and while I was enroute by collectivo to the city centre from the airport my seat neighbour advised me, in an almost conspiratorial tone, that he believed the hotels got more expensive the closer one got to town. It was the opposite of course, and I concluded later that he was either the owner of a hotel that existed on the outskirts, or someone who had been led astray by one.

The point is this: Always believe the opposite of what you hear.

So instead of going to the most popular destination in South America, I decided to visit the most maligned: I bought a cheap flight to Bogota, Colombia. I didn’t know much about Colombian culture, only what I’d seen from their telenovellas (soap operas) which are both numerous and popular throughout Latin America. A few years back it was quite vogue to watch Betty la Fea (Betty ‘the ugly one’), a comedy about a rather plain office worker who more or less controls the hearts and minds of everyone in her immediate surroundings.

Lately, it’s quite chi chi to be able to chat knowledgeably about Pasion de las Gavilanes (passion of the seagulls), which is a sort of modern Colombian western, and not unlike the ‘60s TV drama The Big Valley (remember Lee Majors big break?).

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Everyone in Pasion wears a hat, a gun, and a horse (even the women), and its themes run from kidnapping and torture to spousal abuse (one woman shoots her husband; by the next episode their back in love), betrayal, extortion, and violent family feuds. And those are just the soap operas!  So I figured Colombia couldn’t be all bad as I boarded the Taca jetliner at San Jose’s Juan Santamaria airport…

(Continued next month..)

The following are the previous articles Kevin wrote for the magazine:

Kevin Barker is an expat Canadian living in Costa Rica where he publishes a financial newsletter (www.barkerletter.com) and provides FOREX and equities trading tips for subscribers around the world. He also advises on offshore asset protection. His Postcard column is printed each month in The Independent Times of Vancouver, Canada (www.theindependenttimes.com). He may be reached at kweditor@telus.net.

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