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Celebrating American Holidays In Buenos Aires
American In Argentina
by Delores Johnson
December 2005

It is my second holiday season in Buenos Aires. I moved here 16 months ago. Being from the Northern part of the Northern Hemisphere (Connecticut, USA), I still have not gotten used to it being warm at Christmas time.

I walk into a grocery store or department store, and among all of the Christmas decorations, gift items, and special foods for Christmas, like turrón, a type of candy, and sweet bread, I see swimming pool and picnic supplies and lawn furniture.

It is a shock to my system.

A friend emailed me that they just received a foot of snow yesterday in my hometown. Here in Buenos Aires, the skies are blue, the temperature is warm, and the breeze is cool. The scent of jasmine, honeysuckle, and orange blossoms is in the air. Lavender-colored flowers, jacaranda, are everywhere. 

I chose the right place. I prefer palm trees to ice and snow, and I don’t have to miss out on any American Holidays. My husband and I celebrated Thanksgiving Day with other Americans both years we have been here. 

The restaurants of the large hotels in downtown Buenos Aires offer a traditional Thanksgiving meal, but this year we chose to eat with another American couple at a steakhouse called Kansas. Each year they offer the traditional turkey meal with all the trimmings, like sweet potatoes, stuffing, cranberry sauce, and pumpkin or pecan pie.

At a cost of 32 pesos per person, around $11 US, the quality is excellent.

Last year we had the traditional turkey meal with the American Club downtown. We met the American Ambassador and members of several local English-speaking clubs; for example the American Club, the American Women’s Club, and the American Society of the River Plate. My husband, T.J., had to put on a jacket and tie for the event; something he has only done for funerals in the last two years, but in compensation, he won the door prize, an enormous bottle of sparkling wine. 

More than 200 people attend this event each year. It is advertised in the local English newspaper, the Buenos Aires Herald, http://www.buenosairesherald.com.

This same newspaper has announcements about the meetings of the Buenos Aires International Newcomers Club, http://www.bainnewcomers.org.

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Last year I had only been in Buenos Aires for four days when I attended the Newcomers meeting. It was a lifesaver! There is a movie club, tennis group, a cooking club, and many lunches and dinners, to name a few activities. I learned to play golf and Mah Jong with English speaking friends I met through the Newcomers Club.

However, many of my English-speaking friends are only here for a few years before their employer sends them away to another international destination. Unlike them, my husband and I plan to spend the rest of our lives here. We legally immigrated to Argentina with retirement visas. You can read about our experiences with all the details of how we did it in my Moving to Argentina E-book. More information about this E-Book is available on my website at http://www.lifeinargentina.com.

I have lived overseas twice before, three years in England and three years in Spain. Both these countries, like Argentina, have a tradition of Christmas and vacation bonuses. For example, if you receive 12 monthly paychecks a year, you may receive another paycheck for Christmas and another one for your summer vacation to make a total of 14 paychecks, 12 monthly and 2 bonus.

This is understandable. Because the pay is so low, people do not have enough to celebrate Christmas or take a vacation unless they receive a bonus. At this time of year even the mailman and the garbage collectors will stop and give you a holiday card wishing your family a Happy Holiday. It is the tradition to give them a little money to compensate their low wages. I gave 10 pesos (under $4 US) to each last year and will do so again this year. 

It is also customary to pay household employees a Christmas bonus if they have worked for you for many years and do a good job. Our gardener, cleaning lady, and swimming pool man have worked for us for only a year now, but I plan to give them a bonus to help with their Christmas presents and summer vacations. 

I celebrated Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve last year with Argentine friends.

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My husband was not with me because he flew overnight on Christmas Eve to see his mother who was ill. He took a return flight on New Year’s Eve. That is one way of getting an inexpensive flight between the USA and Argentina during the holidays. Fly when no one else wants to.

Our Argentine friends here are from a family with three generations. The mother who is in her 70s hosts the holiday celebrations at her house. Knowing that I was on my own, she invited me to join her family.

Young people here start going out to clubs around midnight and will return at daybreak. Fortunately, I was with this family that is more oriented to celebrating at home on Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve.

Her three sons and their wives and children came and brought food, an assortment of meat and vegetable dishes. The homemade desserts were what I enjoyed the most. Most Argentines are of Italian and Spanish descent and do not have a tradition of baking at home. They buy desserts. The ice cream is incredible! But this family is of German descent. They have a tradition of home baking and I enjoy their desserts tremendously. If you are interested in Argentine recipes check out the website http://www.lifeinargentina.com.

We started gathering around 9 pm for a dinner at 10 pm. Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve are summertime holidays here and we sat outside for both meals. The fireworks started when it became dark but seemed to reach intensity between 11 and 1 pm.

I have to take an afternoon nap to be able to stay up so late. But then, the afternoon nap, the siesta, is a tradition preserved in the Suburbs and small towns but not in downtown Buenos Aires. In the Suburbs where I live, all the shops close between 1 pm and 4 pm, sometimes until 5 pm. People generally do not telephone you between 2 and 4 pm, if they know you are retired, just in case you are having your siesta.

On Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve the floating lanterns from China were beautiful. I had never seen them before. They are small paper parachutes, about a foot and a half across, with a burning pot below. The pot has a candle or another burning substance. The heat from the candle raises the lantern like a balloon and it floats across the sky. Even though it is nighttime you can see the lantern because of the fire below it. I do not know if theses floating lanterns are permitted in the States. There may be regulations here in Argentina against them but no one would bother to enforce them.

Since the Fourth of July is an American Holiday, you would not expect to celebrate it here, but the Lincoln International School, http://www.lincoln.edu.ar, along with the American Embassy, sponsor a Fourth of July picnic. However, they do not have it in July. July is the coldest month here. It is rainy and windy.

They sponsor the Fourth of July picnic during February or March when it is summer here. There are hot dogs, hamburgers, ice cream, submarine sandwiches, sack races and lots of carnival-like booths. It is a safe place to bring the entire family. Because security is tight, you must sign up beforehand.

The Embassy has booths where you can buy some of the food items that can be hard if not impossible to locate here, for example marshmallows, maple syrup, peanut butter, and sweetened condensed milk, to name a few. We also bought some T-shirts that read United States Embassy Buenos Aires and have the eagle also.  Quite attractive!

I have gone back to the USA twice in 16 months to see family and to shop for clothes. (I wear a size 16.  Anything over a size 10 can be hard to find here.)  However, I have not been homesick living here Buenos Aires. The family members closest to me are no longer living, and the world has changed so much since I lived overseas in Spain during the 70s and England during the 80s.

It was hard for me to find a hamburger in Spain during the 70s. I could find them only in the capital city of Madrid and the quality was horrid. I did not have email and the Internet in those two previous periods of living abroad.  In Spain in the 70s I had to arrange for an international phone call about half an hour before I was going to call.  It would cost about $25 US to speak for half an hour. Those are 70s dollars I am writing about. It is so much easier and cheaper to email someone today. It is so much easier to stay in touch.

There is so much to do in this cosmopolitan city of Buenos Aires. If I become bored, it is my fault. Things slow down during January when everyone goes on their summer vacation, but things will start up again in February. 

I have been to my local town council office to ask about the free tango lessons that start in March. I can hardly wait!

To read more about our legal immigration to Argentina and life in general in Argentina, check out my Moving to Argentina E-Book. This E-Book is available on my website at http://www.lifeinargentina.com

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