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Memories Of Piha New Zealand
On The Wild West Coast Of New Zealand
by Stephanie Giordano
October 2005

Before every winter's arrival I sense its presence. I feel the bitter chill in the air, and the familiar scent of snow. At first it’s a welcomed phenomenon. The idea of bundling up with plush blankets and hot cocoa sounds appealing. This feeling, however, is short lived for me. After a few snow storms, when I can't feel my nose and toes, and I'm so bitterly cold that by the time I get inside I'm sweating from moving so fast, I remember how much I miss summer. Actually, this year, I'll remember how much I miss Piha. Piha, on the wild west coast of New Zealand, will become my recurring destination as an escape from New York winters.

Located on the west coast of the North Island, about a 45 minute drive from downtown Auckland, Piha is a popular weekend day trip for Aucklanders looking to catch some sun and surf. It's one of the most popular and most challenging beaches for surfing in New Zealand. For me it was a shot in the dark. I didn’t know much about the place at all. The only surfing I've ever experienced was on a boogie board at the Jersey shore. Surfing clearly wasn't my primary interest. 

My month in Piha fulfilled every expectation I've ever foolishly had. Moreover, it created a precedent that I now measure all winter destinations to. When looking for tranquil relaxation, adrenalin packed adventure, or a choice of nightlife activities, its common to have to rely on tour companies and transportation. But not here. In Piha, I found the best of everything. There was a level of relaxation and comfort that surpassed any home environment I’ve ever made for myself. I felt like I was home. On the other hand, when the weekend rolled around, whether on the beach or in Auckland, it was easy to find the hotspots of the area. So for people like me, who want to have it all, Piha is heavenly. I can count the number of days on one hand on which I didn't wear my bathing suit.

It was amazing to me how a place so close to the largest city in the country can feel so down to earth and genuinely local.

It goes without saying the mood and atmosphere of a place can change from day to day. The residents of Piha oppose new commercial ventures in their village and have succeeded in preventing the availability of new licenses. So for now, what you see is what you get. You will see Peter greet you at the airport in his surf shuttle, the only owner/operator airport transfer. He'll bring you to the door of wherever you want to go, and probably come in for a cup of tea. Most people know each other, living in homes scattered around the rainforest hillside overlooking the Tasman Sea. It's your typical harmonious blend of young surfers, old surfers, artists, retirees, outdoor enthusiasts, and yogis. Hidden throughout the village, Piha offers a multitude of accommodation options like camping, B & B's, hostels, and self contained cottages and caravans.

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Everything you need is in walking distance (which will also grant you bigger quadriceps). Heading down Piha Rd. you will pass the Firehouse, dairy, post office, library, and public bathrooms before crossing the creek to the beach. The grocery, or dairy, boasts selling the country's best meat pies, and could be right. There's also the amazing West Coast gallery, which is a must see not just for art lovers. You're likely to walk in to the sound of Bob Dylan playing on the stereo, and be surrounded by local craft and artwork ranging from $10 to $10,000. As for food, choices are limited. During the day there's Blair's on the beach, a shack that sometimes is open during the week. I picked up chips, ice cream, burgers, etc. from Blair’s, but often packed away sandwiches in a brown bag. The Piha Bowling Club offers standard meals, as does the Piha Surf Life Saving Club, known as the surf club.

The wild west coast gets its name for a reason, and Piha is one of the most popular and hazardous surf beaches in the country. The surf club is a volunteer organization that's in the heart of the community. In the summers (our winters), they house full time lifeguards who patrol the beach and make dramatic saves every day.

Usually it's novice surfers getting caught in the rip, risking being smashed against the rocks. It's down right dangerous even for strong swimmers. However, people come here to surf, and by God, that's what they do! Just hanging around on the beach I met many a local surfer who was always more than happy to give me a lesson. The truth is, if you learn to surf in Piha, anywhere else is cake. I guess the phrase "if I can make it there..." could mean something more than in the big apple. If only Sinatra knew!......

The surf club also hosts weekend events in the summer, mostly fundraising. Bands and DJs leave the confines of the city and play in Piha. Most weekend days the village hosts international surf competitions. The beach literally fills up. It’s a drastic change from the weekday isolation! The beach is divided in half by Lion Rock, a monolith protruding from the water's edge.

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Until a few years ago, climbing the rock gave spectacular views, but accidents became grave, leaving the pleasure only to the high winds. One of my favorite daily activities was during low tide. The rugged coast would be accessible enough to walk over to the lagoon just south of the beach. Not many people venture there for fear the tide will trap them, not knowing (or not willing) to consider the hike over the headland a fallback. Essentially this lagoon is a tide pool carved away from years of erosion. It is gorgeous.

Hiking is not scarce in the area. Piha is part of the Waiketare Ranges, and maintains a number of tramping/bushwalking sites. Canyoning and kayaking are also top class here. New Zealand as a whole is well known for outdoor adventure. The department of conservation, or the DOC, is an invaluable resource for this purpose (www.doc.co.nz). Generally, however, I found the best hideaway places by word of mouth. Down the road from the beach is the Arataki Visitor Information Center. Among many things, it offers maps and educational material about the Waiketare Ranges Regional Park. I spent much time hiking the trails through the rainforest. Glow worms, waterfalls, and very few people were abound. 

After a few weeks in Piha, I definitely felt the urge to ditch the sarong and flip flops for a night, put on an actual pair of shoes, and take on city nightlife. I never had a problem hitching a ride to and from Piha, through the nearest town of Henderson. If I decided however, on staying for an extended period of time, having a car would’ve come in handy. It just depends on how much you want to leave the beach! Most of the time I was content staying near the coast, listening to radio Piha, 88.1. I met many people who felt the same as I did. I wondered why I hadn’t come earlier to Piha, and would actually go as far as saying it would’ve been worth it to me to have stayed there the whole duration of my trip. It was a good thing I went there last because being in New Zealand amidst glaciers, penguins, volcanoes, and many other natural wonders were experiences I cherish. And yes, it's a shame if you go all the way to New Zealand and only visit one place. But by the time you leave, if you ever do, you won't care!

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The following is the first article Stephanie wrote for the magazine:

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