An American friend who is living at Kata Beach and who knows the island well made the recommendation to move south and spend some time there. And, as the "over the top" commercialism that is the earmark of Patong hospitality is really not that appealing to me, the invitation was a welcome one. Traveling south of Patong, the more beautiful tourist beaches quietly reveal themselves, namely Karon, Kata, Kata Noi, Naihan, Promthep Cape, and Rawai. Kata, the second most popular tourist beach after Patong, was fortunate to be somewhat protected from the tsunami waves by Pu Island. Sitting not too far offshore in the middle of the U-shape formed by Kata Beach, the smaller Pu parted the incoming waves and minimized some of the damage to its larger neighbor. 

Exploring around the south end beaches, I personally found Kata to be the most appealing as a place to stay put for awhile. Kata Beach is large yet intimate, as it is U-shaped and comfortably nestled into a gorgeous backdrop of jungle-canopied hills. These features, combined with its sparkling and clear turquoise water, make it a much more beautiful beach than Patong. There is also a diverse range of accommodation to choose from, and substantial shopping, restaurants, and bars without being overly commercialized. And, if you want to go north to Patong Beach for a dose of the high-energy nightlife there, it is a short 200 baht (USD $5) taxi ride away.

There is ample opportunity to interact with the Thai locals, and Thailand proves to be uncharted territory for me in many ways. The local market at Kata Beach is alive with foreign sights and smells, richly colorful and abundant with fresh fish, strange-looking, exotic fruit and vegetables, and heady, pungent spices. I walk through the market and mingle with the local community, delighting in the rich sensory input. The market stalls lack the antiseptic presentation I am accustomed to, and experiencing a culture that challenges my Western sensibilities is a valuable exercise.

A small, cafe-style restaurant at the south end of Kata Beach has quickly become a favorite haunt to indulge in one of my greatest pleasures here: Thai food! It serves the best Pad Thai I have ever tasted, and this at the bargain price of 40 baht per plate. Right now (October 2005), 40 baht is equivalent to USD $1. With the exchange on the baht, foreign currency goes a long way in Thailand. The going rate for renting a small motorcycle for twenty-four hours is 150 baht (USD $3.75) and a one-hour Thai massage is 250 baht (USD $6.25). Bargaining is expected by the street vendors who sell souvenirs, clothing, and other goods and by the independent taxi drivers. The customary rule of thumb is to offer half the quoted price and dicker from there; be sure to establish your price upfront.

Living here is inexpensive and easy-going, and with fewer than usual tourists at the moment, I have been delightfully surprised to find resorts offering additional discounts to the already bargain low season prices. As you know, when you are booking a trip to a destination for the first time, choosing accommodation on the Internet or from a travel guide can be a real shot in the dark. In Phuket there is a wide variety and price range to choose from, from modest single rooms and bungalows right up to luxury resorts. My landing spot in Patong Beach was fairly good, however when I moved locations to Kata Beach, I scoured the area first for the best combination of beautiful setting, value for the money (at a medium price), and close proximity to the beach. My preferred pick as one of the really great accommodation finds in this area is the Kata Palm Resort, www.katapalmresort.com.

I was attracted to the Kata Palm Resort due to its lush, privacy-oriented tropical greenery surrounding the pool and breakfast areas, and its well-appointed rooms exuding a warm Thai look and feel. As of the beginning of high season (November 2005), this resort is offering additional outstanding facilities. These include a second and truly unique freeform pool that meanders like a stream (complete with grotto, waterfall, and direct pool access rooms), private and outdoor spas, a gym facility, a third new restaurant situated between the two pools, and more. And, to top it all off, the staff are notable in their friendliness and quality of service.

It is absolutely impossible to be bored on Phuket Island; there is an almost endless list of things to do. For those of who are weary of the workaday grind and are simply craving rest and relaxation, this is a great place to find it. Comfy lounge chairs protected by large, colorful sun umbrellas line the outer edge of Kata and other main tourist beaches; they're perfect for laying back and snoozing, or contemplating the gorgeous scenery and sipping a long, cool drink. The chairs are owned by local vendors and you can rent one for a paltry 100 baht for the whole day. No dragging around a lot of equipment to enjoy the beaches here; you just show up and enjoy. Massage facilities are also rampant in Phuket, so there is absolutely no excuse for feeling stressed out here!

Water activities include (of course) swimming, as well as surfing, parasailing, and jet skiing. With direct access to some of the most beautiful dive sites in Thailand, such as the Similan Islands, Racha Yai and Racha Noi, Phuket Island is recognized as a preferred base for a diving holiday. There are also numerous companies on-island offering PADI dive courses for every level from beginner to advanced. The outlying Phi Phi Islands and archipelagoes not only feature absolutely stunning scenery, they also offer diverse opportunity to snorkel and explore the abundant marine life. There are many full day and half day island hopper tours launching from Phuket Island.

As far as land excursions go, there are elephant safari camps, horseback riding, Buddhist temples to visit, a butterfly aviary, a Thai village with traditional dancers, and the list goes on. There are also loads of little shops to scour if you like shopping; they are crammed with everything from practical wares such as clothing to Thai silk and other exotic items. There are many convenience stores in the beach towns; however, if you feel the need to do more "serious" shopping, there are several large department stores and malls in nearby Phuket Town (the capital of Phuket province). It is just 20 minutes away by taxi (250 baht, more or less, depending on your bargaining capabilities), or a little longer by bus (set price, 25 baht).

My most exotic, albeit bizarre, experience here so far has undoubtedly been my visit to the Vegetarian Festival in Phuket Town, which took place this year between October 2nd and the 11th. This annual event on the first nine days of the ninth lunar month dates back to the year 1825. History has it that a traveling troupe of Chinese performers visiting Phuket came down with a serious outbreak of malaria. They used a strict vegetarian diet and ritualistic ceremonies to purge the malady; the apparent success of this regimen encouraged the locals to adopt it as an annual ceremony of purification.

Many Thai people observe the nine days of the festival by wearing white and abstaining from meat, alcohol, or sexual relations. This is practiced particularly in Phuket and Trang, southern areas of Thailand. I visited the festival on October 9th and witnessed the more astonishing side of this festival at the Jui Tui shrine. A small minority of devotees within the general population called "Ma Song" (entranced horses), perform a traditional acts of self-mutilation, intended to bring good luck to the community by shifting evil from other individuals onto themselves. Ma Song are mainly male, however, there are a few female devotees to the tradition.

Respectful onlookers are allowed into the open courtyard in front of the temple, as the Ma Song parade in from another ceremonial area. Their faces are punctured from one cheek to the other with skewering devices ranging in size from small thin metal rods or knives up to very large objects. The most bizarre example I witnessed (in my short visit), was a fellow who had pierced a large beach umbrella through his cheeks. It therefore didn't surprise me to later read an editorial in the Phuket Gazette. The article voiced current concern in the community that this ritual has become outlandish and competitive, overshadowing the general intent of the festival. I have to say that it is personally one of the more thought-provoking experiences I have had in my travels so far!

My visit to Phuket, Thailand has opened up a myriad of thoughts and feelings so complex it will take some time to sort it all out. However, there is a certain something about the place, an allure that is beguiling and defies explanation. Yesterday I sat in a Kata coffee shop, owned by an obviously content British expat who chatted me up as I sipped my java. "I love it here," I said, "and I can't exactly put my finger on why." He just nodded and smiled knowingly, saying, "I know what you mean, and the more you come back, the deeper the hook goes."

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