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As a little background knowledge for you, Phuket (pronounced Poo-ket) is both the largest island and the smallest province of Thailand. Those of you who followed the news about the tsunami last December are probably aware that the west coast of Phuket Island was one of the places affected. A large percentage of tourists who survived the event evacuated immediately. Future bookings for the high season, which had barely begun, also evaporated overnight. People on the island have coped with both economic and personal loss this past year. As an Australian expat recently told me, "Everyone I know in the Patong Beach community either lost or knows someone who lost a loved one to the tsunami." To keep things in perspective, Phuket Island did fare better than other areas of Thailand and the world. A recent article in the October 8-14, 2005 edition of the Phuket Gazette reports that of the total 290,000 worldwide fatalities incurred by the tsunami, there were 5,400 confirmed fatalities and 3,000 people reported missing in all of Thailand. Of those, 279 fatalities and 620 of the missing occurred in Phuket. Phuket Island was fortunate to be somewhat protected by the northernmost tip of Sumatra, which lay along the path of the westerly waves. The majority of destruction in Thailand occurred farther north, at Khao Lak National Park and the Takua Pa district, in the province of Phang Nga, and also on the Phi Phi Islands, southeast of Phuket. Patong and Kamala were the two beaches on Phuket Island that sustained the most extensive damage. Large numbers of vehicles parked on Thawiwong Road, which runs right along the edge of Patong Beach, greatly exacerbated the damage there. Taxis, cars, tuk-tuks, and motorbikes were picked up and swept like small toys into the surrounding buildings and streets. Being the main tourist beach for those who love to shop, party, and generally be "where the action is", Patong received the most immediate attention for clean up. According to the New York Times on January 5, 2005, (just ten days after the tsunami), 90% of hotel rooms in Patong were back in service, however occupancy was a very low 38%. Having spent
time here, I can assure you that as much as there are still small pockets
of reconstruction going on here and there, Phuket Island is a beautiful
and desirable place to visit. My first few days on the island were spent
exploring Patong Beach and buzzing up and down the west coast on a motorcycle.
I found minimal and discreet renovating going on right along the beachfront
at Patong; there was, however, more blatant evidence of construction north
at Kamala Beach. By and large though, the island is in extremely good shape
and people here are eager and prepared to welcome visitors.
Exploring around the south end beaches, I personally found Kata to be the most appealing as a place to stay put for awhile. Kata Beach is large yet intimate, as it is U-shaped and comfortably nestled into a gorgeous backdrop of jungle-canopied hills. These features, combined with its sparkling and clear turquoise water, make it a much more beautiful beach than Patong. There is also a diverse range of accommodation to choose from, and substantial shopping, restaurants, and bars without being overly commercialized. And, if you want to go north to Patong Beach for a dose of the high-energy nightlife there, it is a short 200 baht (USD $5) taxi ride away. There is ample opportunity to interact with the Thai locals, and Thailand proves to be uncharted territory for me in many ways. The local market at Kata Beach is alive with foreign sights and smells, richly colorful and abundant with fresh fish, strange-looking, exotic fruit and vegetables, and heady, pungent spices. I walk through the market and mingle with the local community, delighting in the rich sensory input. The market stalls lack the antiseptic presentation I am accustomed to, and experiencing a culture that challenges my Western sensibilities is a valuable exercise. A small, cafe-style restaurant at the south end of Kata Beach has quickly become a favorite haunt to indulge in one of my greatest pleasures here: Thai food! It serves the best Pad Thai I have ever tasted, and this at the bargain price of 40 baht per plate. Right now (October 2005), 40 baht is equivalent to USD $1. With the exchange on the baht, foreign currency goes a long way in Thailand. The going rate for renting a small motorcycle for twenty-four hours is 150 baht (USD $3.75) and a one-hour Thai massage is 250 baht (USD $6.25). Bargaining is expected by the street vendors who sell souvenirs, clothing, and other goods and by the independent taxi drivers. The customary rule of thumb is to offer half the quoted price and dicker from there; be sure to establish your price upfront. Living here is inexpensive and easy-going, and with fewer than usual tourists at the moment, I have been delightfully surprised to find resorts offering additional discounts to the already bargain low season prices. As you know, when you are booking a trip to a destination for the first time, choosing accommodation on the Internet or from a travel guide can be a real shot in the dark. In Phuket there is a wide variety and price range to choose from, from modest single rooms and bungalows right up to luxury resorts. My landing spot in Patong Beach was fairly good, however when I moved locations to Kata Beach, I scoured the area first for the best combination of beautiful setting, value for the money (at a medium price), and close proximity to the beach. My preferred pick as one of the really great accommodation finds in this area is the Kata Palm Resort, www.katapalmresort.com. I was attracted
to the Kata Palm Resort due to its lush, privacy-oriented tropical greenery
surrounding the pool and breakfast areas, and its well-appointed rooms
exuding a warm Thai look and feel. As of the beginning of high season (November
2005), this resort is offering additional outstanding facilities. These
include a second and truly unique freeform pool that meanders like a stream
(complete with grotto, waterfall, and direct pool access rooms), private
and outdoor spas, a gym facility, a third new restaurant situated between
the two pools, and more. And, to top it all off, the staff are notable
in their friendliness and quality of service.
As far as land excursions go, there are elephant safari camps, horseback riding, Buddhist temples to visit, a butterfly aviary, a Thai village with traditional dancers, and the list goes on. There are also loads of little shops to scour if you like shopping; they are crammed with everything from practical wares such as clothing to Thai silk and other exotic items. There are many convenience stores in the beach towns; however, if you feel the need to do more "serious" shopping, there are several large department stores and malls in nearby Phuket Town (the capital of Phuket province). It is just 20 minutes away by taxi (250 baht, more or less, depending on your bargaining capabilities), or a little longer by bus (set price, 25 baht). My most exotic, albeit bizarre, experience here so far has undoubtedly been my visit to the Vegetarian Festival in Phuket Town, which took place this year between October 2nd and the 11th. This annual event on the first nine days of the ninth lunar month dates back to the year 1825. History has it that a traveling troupe of Chinese performers visiting Phuket came down with a serious outbreak of malaria. They used a strict vegetarian diet and ritualistic ceremonies to purge the malady; the apparent success of this regimen encouraged the locals to adopt it as an annual ceremony of purification. Many Thai people observe the nine days of the festival by wearing white and abstaining from meat, alcohol, or sexual relations. This is practiced particularly in Phuket and Trang, southern areas of Thailand. I visited the festival on October 9th and witnessed the more astonishing side of this festival at the Jui Tui shrine. A small minority of devotees within the general population called "Ma Song" (entranced horses), perform a traditional acts of self-mutilation, intended to bring good luck to the community by shifting evil from other individuals onto themselves. Ma Song are mainly male, however, there are a few female devotees to the tradition. Respectful onlookers are allowed into the open courtyard in front of the temple, as the Ma Song parade in from another ceremonial area. Their faces are punctured from one cheek to the other with skewering devices ranging in size from small thin metal rods or knives up to very large objects. The most bizarre example I witnessed (in my short visit), was a fellow who had pierced a large beach umbrella through his cheeks. It therefore didn't surprise me to later read an editorial in the Phuket Gazette. The article voiced current concern in the community that this ritual has become outlandish and competitive, overshadowing the general intent of the festival. I have to say that it is personally one of the more thought-provoking experiences I have had in my travels so far! My visit to Phuket, Thailand has opened up a myriad of thoughts and feelings so complex it will take some time to sort it all out. However, there is a certain something about the place, an allure that is beguiling and defies explanation. Yesterday I sat in a Kata coffee shop, owned by an obviously content British expat who chatted me up as I sipped my java. "I love it here," I said, "and I can't exactly put my finger on why." He just nodded and smiled knowingly, saying, "I know what you mean, and the more you come back, the deeper the hook goes." To contact
Susan Click Here
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