| Trouble
In Paradise |
| In Costa
Rica |
| by Kevin Barker |
| September
2005
My countrymen
seem to be saying Costa Rica isn't what it used to be. One could extend
that to include all of Central America…well hell, let's just say the whole
world isn't what it used to be either, ok? Ticos are grumbling too. Prices
have pole vaulted over wages to such an extent that the middle class is
in apparent danger of extinction. All I can say is what a pity if that
actually happened. Costa Rica has the best public education, health insurance,
and middle class among all the countries in the Center of the Americas.
If that is in fact being eroded, then it bodes ill for the huddled masses
in neighbouring countries who are yearning to be free - of poverty, for
a start. |
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| I say 'apparent'
because reliable statistical evidence is hard to find. However, I have
it on very good authority (a government economist who prefers to remain
anonymous) that the official rate of inflation here in 2003 was a fraction
of what it really was (30% he reports; not hyper inflation, but definitely
getting up there). That number seemed more evident from the second
half of 2005, with people cutting back on such essentials as automobiles
and cell phones. Both are dearly loved staples of middle class life. Moreover,
the cost of living which is measured as a basket, or 'canasta', of household
goods does not include essential commodities such as oil and gas which
we all know has become wildly expensive.
Is it coincidence
then that the popularity of outgoing president Abel Pacheco, a psychiatrist-turned-politician
and part-time (albeit published) poet, has ebbed to an all time low? Not
according to him. Sr. Pacheco blames the high cost of crude for putting
him in the doghouse. I for one beg to differ: Asked recently to comment
on a tragic but potentially avoidable hospital fire that claimed 19 lives
(including a heroic nurse who died trying to help her charges escape),
Pacheco - who should really know better - said merely that Costa Rica is
'a poor country'. |
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| Not only did
that fail to alleviate or allay any pain and suffering or fear, it insulted
everyone in Costa Rica who doesn't think of their country as 'poor' - which
is just about everybody.
Enough politics
already! The point is that the normally happy go lucky folks who inhabit
this charming land are a little long-faced of late. This is quite atypical,
as social criticism in Costa Rica has always seemed to me a rather sanguine
affair.
Unlike the
Nicaraguans and Salvadorenos (who foment), or the Nicaraguans and
Guatemalans (who militarize), the swallowing of society's bitter
little pills is done here in the style of Will Rogers rather than Clifford
Odets. Social justice is arbitrated by the cab drivers, the columnists,
and the commissars of the arts rather than the mob. Ordinary folks just
don’t bother with it. Of course there are exceptions to this laconic style:
One community |
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Offshore Resources Gallery
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| newspaper
published in the tiny community of Santo Domingo north of San Jose is engaged
in publishing a series of virulent, rabid, hysterical rants against a local
police 'cover-up' of what it claims is a drug problem among the youth.
There is no evidence of this, on the streets or else where, and the whole
thing would be deemed in very bad taste (by North American standards) if
it were not for the fact that Santo Domingo is in Latin America, where
people are allowed to behave emotionally, however inappropriate or bad
that behaviour may turn out to be.
Lately however
the ordinary folks have been extremely 'bothered with it', as it were.
That North American style chronic unhappiness you and I know so well -
vandalism, road rage, the vague feeling that you’re not living right -
seems to be growing. Some among us have taken that as a cue to head for
the exits. Living anywhere else in Central America is unthinkable to all
but the most rugged of retirement aged folks. So where else do we have
to go? Well, there is Argentina. Far away, yes, but the expat press has
been lauding it lately. Writes a friend and colleague who has lived and
worked there for two years, ‘things are cheaper after the devaluation of
the currency three years ago – everything had to be downsized to sell at
the new Argentine Peso value’. |
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How cheap
is ‘cheaper’?. Says Brian: 'I bought three new full-size, turbo diesel
4X4 crew cabs in the past year: A Toyota 3.0 litre with all the bells and
whistles for US$28,000; a Dodge 2500 (5.3 litre) for US$42,000; and a Ford
100 (5.0 litre) for US$34,000.
He adds that
certain items and services are inexpensive all over Argentina. Labour,
including skilled labor is very inexpensive; transportation is inexpensive;
food and wine – eaten in or out - is very inexpensive; lodging
is inexpensive. Legal and accounting services in the bigger cities are
expensive, but a lot less than North America. These same services outside
of the big cities are very reasonable.
'You will be
impressed with Buenos Aires and Argentina in general,' he says in closing. |
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Offshore
Resources Gallery
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Discounted
return airfare from San Jose, Costa Rica is approximately US$730, which
I have decided to invest in an exploratory visit this fall. Watch this
space next month for my first impressions of Buenos Aires and environs.
The following
is the previous article Kevin wrote for the magazine:
-
The Working Geezer's Guide To Nicaragua
~ In
Ometepe
Kevin Barker
is the Independent Times Americas Editor. He may be reached at kweditor@telus.net. |
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