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Trouble In Paradise
In Costa Rica
by Kevin Barker
September 2005

My countrymen seem to be saying Costa Rica isn't what it used to be. One could extend that to include all of Central America…well hell, let's just say the whole world isn't what it used to be either, ok? Ticos are grumbling too. Prices have pole vaulted over wages to such an extent that the middle class is in apparent danger of extinction. All I can say is what a pity if that actually happened. Costa Rica has the best public education, health insurance, and middle class among all the countries in the Center of the Americas. If that is in fact being eroded, then it bodes ill for the huddled masses in neighbouring countries who are yearning to be free - of poverty, for a start.

I say 'apparent' because reliable statistical evidence is hard to find. However, I have it on very good authority (a government economist who prefers to remain anonymous) that the official rate of inflation here in 2003 was a fraction of what it really was (30% he reports; not hyper inflation, but definitely getting up there). That number seemed more evident from the second half of 2005, with people cutting back on such essentials as automobiles and cell phones. Both are dearly loved staples of middle class life. Moreover, the cost of living which is measured as a basket, or 'canasta', of household goods does not include essential commodities such as oil and gas which we all know has become wildly expensive.

Is it coincidence then that the popularity of outgoing president Abel Pacheco, a psychiatrist-turned-politician and part-time (albeit published) poet, has ebbed to an all time low? Not according to him. Sr. Pacheco blames the high cost of crude for putting him in the doghouse. I for one beg to differ: Asked recently to comment on a tragic but potentially avoidable hospital fire that claimed 19 lives (including a heroic nurse who died trying to help her charges escape), Pacheco - who should really know better - said merely that Costa Rica is 'a poor country'.

Not only did that fail to alleviate or allay any pain and suffering or fear, it insulted everyone in Costa Rica who doesn't think of their country as 'poor' - which is just about everybody.

Enough politics already! The point is that the normally happy go lucky folks who inhabit this charming land are a little long-faced of late. This is quite atypical, as social criticism in Costa Rica has always seemed to me a rather sanguine affair. 

Unlike the Nicaraguans and Salvadorenos (who foment), or the Nicaraguans and Guatemalans (who militarize), the swallowing of society's bitter little pills is done here in the style of Will Rogers rather than Clifford Odets. Social justice is arbitrated by the cab drivers, the columnists, and the commissars of the arts rather than the mob. Ordinary folks just don’t bother with it. Of course there are exceptions to this laconic style: One community

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newspaper published in the tiny community of Santo Domingo north of San Jose is engaged in publishing a series of virulent, rabid, hysterical rants against a local police 'cover-up' of what it claims is a drug problem among the youth. There is no evidence of this, on the streets or else where, and the whole thing would be deemed in very bad taste (by North American standards) if it were not for the fact that Santo Domingo is in Latin America, where people are allowed to behave emotionally, however inappropriate or bad that behaviour may turn out to be.

Lately however the ordinary folks have been extremely 'bothered with it', as it were. That North American style chronic unhappiness you and I know so well - vandalism, road rage, the vague feeling that you’re not living right - seems to be growing. Some among us have taken that as a cue to head for the exits. Living anywhere else in Central America is unthinkable to all but the most rugged of retirement aged folks. So where else do we have to go? Well, there is Argentina. Far away, yes, but the expat press has been lauding it lately. Writes a friend and colleague who has lived and worked there for two years, ‘things are cheaper after the devaluation of the currency three years ago – everything had to be downsized to sell at the new Argentine Peso value’.


How cheap is ‘cheaper’?. Says Brian: 'I bought three new full-size, turbo diesel 4X4 crew cabs in the past year: A Toyota 3.0 litre with all the bells and whistles for US$28,000; a Dodge 2500 (5.3 litre) for US$42,000; and a Ford 100 (5.0 litre) for US$34,000. 

He adds that certain items and services are inexpensive all over Argentina. Labour, including skilled labor is very inexpensive; transportation is inexpensive; food and wine – eaten in or out -  is very inexpensive; lodging is inexpensive. Legal and accounting services in the bigger cities are expensive, but a lot less than North America. These same services outside of the big cities are very reasonable. 

'You will be impressed with Buenos Aires and Argentina in general,' he says in closing.

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Discounted return airfare from San Jose, Costa Rica is approximately US$730, which I have decided to invest in an exploratory visit this fall. Watch this space next month for my first impressions of Buenos Aires and environs.

The following is the previous article Kevin wrote for the magazine:

  • The Working Geezer's Guide To Nicaragua ~ In Ometepe
Kevin Barker is the Independent Times Americas Editor. He may be reached at kweditor@telus.net.

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