| July 2005
Boquete,
Panama
My day begins
at 7am. Time to feed the cat. OK, it really began about 6am when the sky
lightened enough to call it day and the cat knows it’s time to begin the
morning badgering, which will continue until she has been fed at 7am. Tika’s
the cat’s name. Hates everyone but me, but now and then I’ll get a snarl,
a bite, or a paw swipe, too. She sleeps by my side though, and for a guy
that’s enough.
Pretty much
every day begins this way. At 8 degrees, 30 minutes latitude even the sun
rises and falls at plus or minus 15 minutes throughout the year.
I shower, spend
a half hour on the Internet and head off to breakfast in town. The temperature
outside is 70 degrees Fahrenheit. It always is this time of day, plus or
minus a degree or three. |
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| My wife
Phyllis is still asleep. We all have our little pleasures. Mine is
breakfast served to me. Hers is a few extra winks.
The Toyota
diesel pickup chugs to a start and I’m off on my morning run for nourishment
at Olga’s. Sun’s in my face so I put on the shades and roll down
the hill and into town.
Life is good
in Boquete, Panama.
Olga’s - officially
Punta del Encuentra (Meeting Point) - is the unofficial morning meeting
place for local expats and travelers to Boquete. Every morning there will
be a few regulars, a few travelers - some with backpacks, and a few would-be
expats scouting the place out, many looking to buy property. Kind of like
the weather here SSDD - Same Stuff, Different Day. But also as the clouds
are quite different today from yesterday, so the differences in the people
from day-to-day give a sense of variety from the uniform.
The first choice
is whether to go it alone with my book-of-the-month - I read just a few
pages a day, before someone will sit down with me or a conversation will
start with another table, or I will join one of the other expats already
here. |
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| I’ve got about
twenty pages to go in Wilbur Smith’s “Elephant Song,” so I’ll sit at my
regular table, do my daily accounting and then read some.
I’m ‘building
a house.’ I was ‘having a house built,’ but my builder went belly-up.
So, having taken over the construction, I do my expense accounting each
day. Takes 10 to 15 minutes. From ‘client’ I’ve now become ‘paymaster,’
‘jefe’ (chief), and ‘gofer’ - gofer cement, gofer tile, blah blah.
Coffee arrives
courtesy of Olga. A hug, a latin-greeting kiss on the cheek (I love this
way of greeting). “Que vas a comer, mi amor?” she asks. “Omelete, sin papas,
por favor, mi carina.” I answer. She spots the bowl of processed sugar
in front of me and replaces it with the "turbinado" sugar I prefer. |
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Offshore Resources Gallery
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| I get back
into Elephant Song. Quick-paced action, particularly at the end of
the book.My omelet comes. Eat a bite. Find my place on the page. Eat another
bite, find my place again. Eat bite, find place. Eat, find. Eat, find.
A couple sits
down at the only other table in this section. Eat, find. They talk for
a bit. He says “Do you live here?” “Yup.” “How long?” “Two and a half years.”
“Like it?” “Yup. Love it.” “How come?” Blah, blah, blah. Three years ago
I was here. I was asking these same questions. I was getting the same answers
I was now giving. So I think, “Am I on some kind of weird merry-go-round?”
I excuse myself
and go get another cup of coffee from the coffee maker on the main terrace.
The big table is full. Regulars, with a couple new folks. This is the social
table. (It’s been called “mesa bochincheros” - the gossip table, but that’s
for fun. It’s just an ad hoc group that enjoys a social breakfast.
Olga's daughter
Lici comes through the door, says hello gives me the latin hug/kiss and
sits down with me. She's in college taking a pre-psychiatry major. We talk
about books. |
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| DaVinci
Code, Aztec, Angels & Demons,
Pompeii,
River
God.
She gets up to serve the table that just came in.
Finishing at
a little after 9am, I say “Hasta luego” to the folks at the neighboring
table and head off to pick up Pamela and Carmen. Pamela is my translator
and secretary on the construction site and on the farm that Phyllis and
I own. Carmen is our housekeeper. She comes twice a week.
I pick up Pamela
first. It’s 9:11am. “You’re late.” She chides me. I’m always a few minutes
late. I wasn’t in the States. Always punctual. A fetish for being on time.
I’ve slipped, I guess. Carmen’s next. She climbs in at 9:20. “Buenas dias.
Como estan?”—Hi. How are you all? “Bien, y tu?”—fine and you? “Bien,
gracias.” |
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| At the house,
Phyllis has her creative writing group sitting around the table on the
terrace. Kisses and hugs all around as we come in. Carmen knows what to
do and goes and does it. Pamela and I head out to the house construction
site bringing material from yesterday's foray into the city of David, 20
miles away on Panama's Pacific coast.
Antonio and
Roberto are working on a set of stairs from the carport to the garbage
deposit near the road. Braulio and his two guys are putting up gypsum ceilings
and soffits. Jimi is testing the electrical wiring. Oscar’s guys are on
site putting in the iron stair railings. Finally. Great. Stuff is really
happening. Edmundo should be here after he gets off his government job
at about 1 PM, to install another couple doors. He does good work with
the tropical hardwood doors his brother built for us. His brother, Oldamar,
is also doing our cabinets. I took a sample of the wood - called Quira
here, Cristobal in Costa Rica - to see if it would float. It doesn't. It
sits at the level you put it in water.
“Who needs
what?” Pamela takes down the list. Gasoline for the generator, “What again?
What are you guys doing, drinking it?” I ask, (but with a wink). Turns
out the generator, going most of the day, uses a lot of gas - at $2.43
a gallon, we use about $8 a day.
Pamela and
I now travel about 15Km across the Boquete valley to the farm. We pick
up the 2-cycle gas mixture and weed-eater at the house, as Juan asked for
it to clear weeds between the coffee trees. Juan is our farm manager. He
lives on the farm with his wife and family of nine kids.
The farm is
in a jungle valley, bordered by a year-round stream. I go there twice or
three times a week during the rainy season (because there’s few of the
vegetables I sell growing in the rainy season) and four or five times a
week during the dry season. Every time I go, I see the jungle wrapping
around the valley and think I’m in the middle of some Indiana Jones movie.
We wave and
smile at the cute Ngobe-Bugle indian kids staying on the farm next to ours,
as we travel the 400 meters of right-of-way to the farm. The girls are
all wearing their traditional colorful muu-muu-type dresses. They’re quite
shy, but having seen us many times smile back, their eyes still give evidence
to their shyness.
The farm is
an organic farm, dedicated to multi-cropping coffee, strawberries, lettuce,
citrus, bananas, avocado and a variety of other berries, fruits and vegetables.
The coffee is shaded by citrus, banana/plantain and second-growth forest
to provide an ecology we hope is sustainable for the people, and the plants
and critters that live here. I’ve noticed that while we have some bugs
they’re never out of control. There are never too many. I’m guessing that
in a proper balance, the birds, lizards, spiders, etc., provide the culling.
Fact is, I’m thrilled to be able to walk about in a jungle environment
without having to worry about bringing along the Deep Woods Off or DEET.
Arriving there.
We deliver the weed-eater, the 2-cycle gas mixture, and a pair of shoes
I bought yesterday for one of his sons, Narciso (who, I think wrecked the
last pair playing soccer, or something). Narciso needs the shoes for school.
The kids wear uniforms to school.
We find that
Juan is working with his machete on the weeds at the far end of the farm.
OK, he’s about 200 yards down the creek. (The farm’s not big). We give
him the weed eater, give Livia, his wife, the shoes and get in return a
bag of zarzamora - a blackberry-like berry. Zarzamora can be eaten raw;
it’s also excellent as a sherbet with a bit of orange or lime squeezed
in.
Juan has a
request too. Coming in off the road we noticed water gushing up from the
middle of the road. Someone had broken the water feed to the farm. Probably
a heavily-laden farm truck. We need to get some of the thicker gauge 3”
PVC pipe to repair it.
Need gasoline.
Need PVC. Pamela says she needs lunch. Lunch first. It’s 12:45. |
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