| Creatures
And Comforts On Kangaroo Island |
| 4-WD Tracking
of Koalas, Kangaroos, and Cockatoos |
| Story by Carol L. Bowman
Photos by Ernie L. Sowers |
| August
2005
Kangaroo
Island
The dark, deserted
building showed no resemblance to an airport. Noticing our hesitation,
the cab driver reassured us that this was the Adelaide General Aviation
Terminal, the departure venue for Emu Airways’ 84 weekly flights to Kangaroo
Island. Much of our eager anticipation for this sojourn centered on a magical,ecological
adventure to Australia’s third largest island 30 minutes by air and 120
km. from the mainland. |
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| Being the
dutiful U.S. travelers that we are, we arrived at the terminal the customary
2 hours prior to departure time. That turned out to be 1 ½ hours
too early. Slower paced, “no worries” attitude prevails in South
Australia.
Check-In is
a rather loose term for the process. A smartly dressed Emu staffer tagged
and weighed the baggage. Donned in a neon vest, he toted the bags on a
hand pulled cart across the tarmac to the waiting twin engine, 20-passenger,
prop plane. After collecting our plastic, generic boarding passes, he escorted
the passengers to the aircraft. How efficient, I thought. One person just
completed the jobs of four people. The shock came when this “jack of
all trades” removed the vest, scaled the plane access stairs, made
the safety announcements and quickly eased himself into the pilot’s seat!
Now that’s efficiency.
Kangaroo
Island
British
sea Captain Matthew Flinders recorded the first landing on this 145
km by 55 km isle on March 2, 1802. |
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| Reportedly,
kangaroos
found on the island saved his crew from starvation. Captain Flinders gratefully
named his find “Kangaroo Island”.Today it mirrors
The Galapagos
Chain in its isolation, quarantine measures to protect the habitat,
and diversified eco system with 30% of the land mass dedicated to the conservation
and protection of wildlife and fauna.
Since foxes
and rabbits were never introduced and remain permanently banned, many species
of wildlife have evolved and flourished undisturbed by natural predators.
The abundance of the island’s Western Grey Kangaroo, Tammar Wallaby, Possum,
Echidna, Koala, Platypus and Australian fur seal and sea lion
is remarkable considering the bloody introduction of man in the early to
mid 1800’s. Whalers, fur traders, runaway convicts and renegades who first
settled there in lawless abandon, almost slaughtered kangaroos and
fur seals to extinction. |
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Offshore Resources Gallery
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| Today, most
of the island’s 4500 permanent residents act as ecological ambassadors,
who promote community monitoring systems to ensure that tourism on Kangaroo
Island is sustainable and to study the impact on the environment. Their
successful efforts show. Even plastic bags, almost a universal menace
when used as commercial totes, are not allowed. Residents carry cloth satchels
around to bag store purchases. Banned import products include potatoes,
bees, honey products and selected weeds.
Within minutes
of landing, Adventures Charters’ bush guide, Andy, collected us and loaded
the roomy, actually comfortable, 4-WD transport. We headed toward
a red gum, eucalyptus forest. Our first Kangaroo Island task – look
up, talk softly, and be the first to spot a koala bear. While we searched
on foot, Andy busily set out Australian tea, cocoa and decadent, chocolate
tortes. Mid-morning tea time is a must in South Australia. I wouldn’t
want to hunt for koalas any other way. Atop the manna gum tree,
lazy balls of fur emerged, as our eyes became accustomed to the image.
In 1923, these deceptively cute marsupials were intentionally introduced
to the island to reduce the extinction problems on the mainland. |
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| Today, that
situation has reversed itself. The island’s predator free environment has
encouraged a koala population beyond 3,000 – a number that far exceeds
gum trees to feed them. In 1997, the koala management program became necessary
in order to reduce the impact on vegetation. Koalas are now either
relocated back to the mainland or sterilized on the island.
The entire
day was devoted to seeking out the island’s incredibly diversified wildlife
and geological wonders such as the erosion formed Incredible Rocks.
Magnificent rugged coastlines zagged in and zigged out; sea lions piled
in mounds on the beach, oblivious to the host of onlookers; leaf cutter
and flesh eating ant mounds were routinely identified for the novice to
avoid; a juvenile sperm whale, caught mercilessly by the coastal crag,
rocked with the tide; and black glossy cockatoos munched on casuarinas
seeds – these were the sights that will remain in my mind’s eye. |
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Offshore
Resources Gallery
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| Since Andy
was born on the island and returned later to raise his family there, he
had the knowledge and the accessibility of a local. We were privileged
to explore vast sheep farms owned by his relatives, where we went “roo”
hunting
in the bush. Long haired, grey kangaroos, endemic to the island
sought shelter from the intense sun under scrub bushes. With quiet, unobtrusive
movements, we were able to walk within meters of them before they sensed
any danger and hopped away. Kangaroos, we learned are able to determine
the sex of their young and can even delay gestation, if climatic conditions
are not suitable for the survival of a joey. Discussions proved to be an
unending education of facts and folklore.
More comforts
were on tap. Adventure Charters has erected, with the owners’ permission,
white tents and grills on a few farms throughout the island as watering
hole stops during full day excursions. Lunch with the backdrop of the bush,
and birds cackling was exotic enough, but when the stemmed wine glasses,
white tablecloths and china appeared, I knew this was going to be an incredibly
unforgettable dining experience. Not only was Andy extremely knowledgeable,
but he could also transform a grilled King George Whiting fillet into a
delicacy at lunch time. Sipping a South Australian Shiraz under
a billowing canopy, while taking in all the scents, tastes and sights of
the Kangaroo Island countryside – now that’s truly one of those
experiences cherished long after it’s over. Of course, every indication
of human contamination was removed from the scene before departing. Not
one crumb or scrap of rubbish was left behind - comfort with an ecological
twist.
It was time
to head to the American River community and the Kangaroo Island
Lodge - where we were scheduled to rest our heads for the next two nights.
Little did we know what “comforts” lie ahead. American River was
established in 1803 by a group of American sealers, who arrived aboard
the brig Union, under the command of Captain Pemberton. Although the area
they named American River was just an inlet, the name stuck, as did Captain
Pemberton and his crew for 4 months while they built a new schooner. The
Independence, marked the first ship building enterprise in South
Australia. Kangaroo Island Lodge is the largest 4 star accommodation
venue on the island and the oldest continually operating inn. The main
building dates back over 100 years. There have been many historical locations
that boast a “room with a view”. Room #10 at Kangaroo Island Lodge rivals
them all. I rated it a “10”. The gum tree outline centered the full glass
wall. Day break peaked just over the horizon and the sun glistened on the
inlet waters, while graceful black swans glided about – this scene unfolded
without ever leaving your room. The restaurant was first class, with delectable
and unusual offerings such as grilled BBQ kangaroo and Houlami Fried Cheese
Salad. The ambience in the screened porch, with magnificent views was divine.
A self walking tour to the antiquated Fish Cannery site started just steps
from the door. A free day on Kangaroo Island can be spent just meandering
through the forest to the cannery, keeping a trained eye out for more black
glossy cockatoos, which frequently nest here due to the abundance
of Casuarinas trees in the area. So go to Kangaroo Island. Enjoy
all the creatures it has to offer, but know that ‘creature comforts’
abound
as well.
IF YOU GO:
The entire 3 day Island Wanderer Package can be booked through Adventure
Charters, Kangaroo Island@adventurecharters.com.au–
or travelonline.com will make all
your arrangements and bookings. The package includes: air fare, 2 full
days of touring with local guides, morning tea, lunches including Australian
wines, beers and soft drinks, all National Park Entrance fees, 2 nights’
dinner and accommodations, breakfast and transfers on the island. Price
for 2 is $2310.00 Australian. Day trips and one night packages are
also available. There are many levels and price range of accommodations.
Airfare can be booked directly with Emu Airways at 1800-182-353. Car Ferries
are also available at Cape Jarvis. There is no cab service on the island,
so booking through a tour agency with transfers or taking your own car
via ferry is essential.
The following
is the previous article that Carol wrote for the magazine:
To contact Carol
Click
Here
If you would
like to submit an article to Escape From America Magazine Click
Here
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