The repetitive clickety-clack lulled us to sleep easily, as the rocking motion provided a sense of comfort and security. As the hours passed, we traversed through one of the world’s most inhospitable places. Salt lakes, arid mountain ranges and scrubs abounded. The desert heat is so unbearable, that the opal mining town of Cooper Pedy is actually built underground. Looking at the harshness beyond the glass of the air-conditioned, comfy carriage, I was so thankful that we were safely on the Ghan instead of on the paralleled Stuart Highway, wary and hypervigilant of an automobile’s ability to handle this environment.

The Ghan’s first stop, after 17 hours of travel, was Port Augusta at 5:30AM. Here, the Aborigine quietly carried his small sack and deboarded. He disappeared into the darkness. As we pulled away from the station. I wondered what stories he could tell. At first light, a change in landscape suggested that our journey was nearly complete. Vast sheep farms and cattle stations stretched on for interminable acres. It reminded me of the Draquida Ranch in “The Thorn Birds”, and I fantasized about Maggie and her faithful priest rounding up sheep on horseback. Gum trees stood taller, vegetation actually had a green hue to it, and signs of human habitation all indicated that water must be a more abundant resource here and the temperatures less oppressive. Small towns and outcroppings emerged, as the port of Adelaide and Kestwick Station lured us on to our next adventure. We were refreshed by the journey and eager for whatever lied ahead. The conductor made the final sweep through the carriages to alert the Ghan’s protected travelers that it was time to move on, either to explore Adelaide or continue on to Melbourne – or perhaps change to the Indian-Pacific Line to Sydney. 

Rail service throughout the vast continent of Australia is a fantastic way to view the changing landscapes of this varied land and to get a sense of how its inhabitants deal with the isolation of a continent, barren in its center and populated along its edges. The Ghan Train and its clip through the Outback, with kangaroos racing alongside, will remain in my memory as a favorite among our amazing travelogue experiences.

IF YOU GO:The Ghan departs Alice Springs for Adelaide every Thursday and Saturday, arriving in Adelaide Friday and Sunday respectively. Returns from Adelaide to Alice Springs depart each Friday and Sunday from the Kestwick Station in Adelaide. Travel time in each direction is 20 hours. Reservations can be made at Great Southern Railroad Office, 80 Williams St., 2nd Floor, suite 206, Sydney; Phone (02) 9332 5133; reservations 13 22 32. Far easier, is to book through Travelonline.com – an Australian Tour Agency that can make all reservations for you. Phone: 07 3512 8100; Fax 07 3876 4645. Their service and efficiency was impeccable, particularly the efforts of Julie Wilson. The cost for the Red Kangaroo Daynighter Package for 2 Adults from Alice Springs to Adelaide totaled $ 430.00 Australian. Confirmations of seat assignments can be made at the Alice Springs Railway Office at 08 8213 4592. You must arrive at the railway station at either starting point at least one hour before departure. 50 Kilos of baggage per passenger is allowed without additional fee, and is stored on the luggage car for the duration of the trip. Everything you need during travel time must be carried in hand luggage. Food served in the Buffet dining car ranges from an evening meal with 2 entrees, to snacks, soft drinks, beer, and fruit. A hot breakfast or cold cereal, buns coffee, tea, juice or hot chocolate is offered around 6:30AM. There is no table service in the Coach Class service. Items purchased can be eaten either in the dining car or taken to your seat.

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