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Living In Boquete, Panama
A Day In Boquete
By Kent McNaughton
July 2005

Boquete, Panama

My day begins at 7am. Time to feed the cat. OK, it really began about 6am when the sky lightened enough to call it day and the cat knows it’s time to begin the morning badgering, which will continue until she has been fed at 7am. Tika’s the cat’s name. Hates everyone but me, but now and then I’ll get a snarl, a bite, or a paw swipe, too. She sleeps by my side though, and for a guy that’s enough.

Pretty much every day begins this way.

At 8 degrees, 30 minutes latitude even the sun rises and falls at plus or minus 15 minutes throughout the year. I shower, spend a half hour on the Internet and head off to breakfast in town. The temperature outside is 70 degrees Fahrenheit. It always is this time of day, plus or minus a degree or three.

My wife Phyllis is still asleep. We all have our little pleasures. Mine is breakfast served to me. Hers is a few extra winks.

The Toyota diesel pickup chugs to a start and I’m off on my morning run for nourishment at Olga’s. Sun’s in my face so I put on the shades and roll down the hill and into town.

Life is good in Boquete, Panama.

Olga’s - officially Punta del Encuentra (Meeting Point) - is the unofficial morning meeting place for local expats and travelers to Boquete. Every morning there will be a few regulars, a few travelers - some with backpacks, and a few would-be expats scouting the place out, many looking to buy property.

Kind of like the weather here SSDD - Same Stuff, Different Day. But also as the clouds are quite different today from yesterday, so the differences in the people from day-to-day give a sense of variety from the uniform. 

The first choice is whether to go it alone with my book-of-the-month - I read just a few pages a day, before someone will sit down with me or a conversation will start with another table, or I will join one of the other expats already here.

I’ve got about twenty pages to go in Wilbur Smith’s “Elephant Song,” so I’ll sit at my regular table, do my daily accounting and then read some. I’m ‘building a house.’ I was ‘having a house built,’ but my builder went belly-up. So, having taken over the construction, I do my expense accounting each day. Takes 10 to 15 minutes.

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From ‘client’ I’ve now become ‘paymaster,’ ‘jefe’ (chief), and ‘gofer’ - gofer cement, gofer tile, blah blah. 

Coffee arrives courtesy of Olga. A hug, a latin-greeting kiss on the cheek (I love this way of greeting). “Que vas a comer, mi amor?” she asks. “Omelete, sin papas, por favor, mi carina.” I answer. She spots the bowl of processed sugar in front of me and replaces it with the "turbinado" sugar I prefer.

I get back into Elephant Song. Quick-paced action, particularly at the end of the book.My omelet comes. Eat a bite. Find my place on the page. Eat another bite, find my place again. Eat bite, find place. Eat, find. Eat, find.

A couple sits down at the only other table in this section. Eat, find. They talk for a bit. He says “Do you live here?” “Yup.” “How long?” “Two and a half years.” “Like it?” “Yup. Love it.” “How come?” Blah, blah, blah. Three years ago I was here. I was asking these same questions. I was getting the same answers I was now giving. So I think, “Am I on some kind of weird merry-go-round?” 

I excuse myself and go get another cup of coffee from the coffee maker on the main terrace. The big table is full. Regulars, with a couple new folks. This is the social table. (It’s been called “mesa bochincheros” - the gossip table, but that’s for fun. It’s just an ad hoc group that enjoys a social breakfast. Olga's daughter Lici comes through the door, says hello gives me the latin hug/kiss and sits down with me. She's in college taking a pre-psychiatry major. We talk about books.

DaVinci Code, Aztec, Angels & Demons, Pompeii, River God. She gets up to serve the table that just came in. 

Finishing at a little after 9am, I say “Hasta luego”  to the folks at the neighboring table and head off to pick up Pamela and Carmen. Pamela is my translator and secretary on the construction site and on the farm that Phyllis and I own. Carmen is our housekeeper.

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She comes twice a week.

I pick up Pamela first. It’s 9:11am. “You’re late.” She chides me. I’m always a few minutes late. I wasn’t in the States. Always punctual. A fetish for being on time. I’ve slipped, I guess. Carmen’s next. She climbs in at 9:20. “Buenas dias. Como estan?”—Hi. How are you all?  “Bien, y tu?”—fine and you? “Bien, gracias.”

At the house, Phyllis has her creative writing group sitting around the table on the terrace. Kisses and hugs all around as we come in. Carmen knows what to do and goes and does it. Pamela and I head out to the house construction site bringing material from yesterday's foray into the city of David, 20 miles away on Panama's Pacific coast. 

Antonio and Roberto are working on a set of stairs from the carport to the garbage deposit near the road. Braulio and his two guys are putting up gypsum ceilings and soffits. Jimi is testing the electrical wiring. Oscar’s guys are on site putting in the iron stair railings. Finally. Great. Stuff is really happening. Edmundo should be here after he gets off his government job at about 1 PM, to install another couple doors. He does good work with the tropical hardwood doors his brother built for us. His brother, Oldamar, is also doing our cabinets. I took a sample of the wood - called Quira here, Cristobal in Costa Rica - to see if it would float. It doesn't. It sits at the level you put it in water.

“Who needs what?” Pamela takes down the list. Gasoline for the generator, “What again? What are you guys doing, drinking it?” I ask, (but with a wink). Turns out the generator, going most of the day, uses a lot of gas - at $2.43 a gallon, we use about $8 a day. 

Pamela and I now travel about 15Km across the Boquete valley to the farm. We pick up the 2-cycle gas mixture and weed-eater at the house, as Juan asked for it to clear weeds between the coffee trees. Juan is our farm manager. He lives on the farm with his wife and family of nine kids.

The farm is in a jungle valley, bordered by a year-round stream. I go there twice or three times a week during the rainy season (because there’s few of the vegetables I sell growing in the rainy season) and four or five times a week during the dry season. Every time I go, I see the jungle wrapping around the valley and think I’m in the middle of some Indiana Jones movie. 

We wave and smile at the cute Ngobe-Bugle indian kids staying on the farm next to ours, as we travel the 400 meters of right-of-way to the farm. The girls are all wearing their traditional colorful muu-muu-type dresses. They’re quite shy, but having seen us many times smile back, their eyes still give evidence to their shyness.

The farm is an organic farm, dedicated to multi-cropping coffee, strawberries, lettuce, citrus, bananas, avocado and a variety of other berries, fruits and vegetables. The coffee is shaded by citrus, banana/plantain and second-growth forest to provide an ecology we hope is sustainable for the people, and the plants and critters that live here. I’ve noticed that while we have some bugs they’re never out of control. There are never too many. I’m guessing that in a proper balance, the birds, lizards, spiders, etc., provide the culling. Fact is, I’m thrilled to be able to walk about in a jungle environment without having to worry about bringing along the Deep Woods Off or DEET. 

Arriving there. We deliver the weed-eater, the 2-cycle gas mixture, and a pair of shoes I bought yesterday for one of his sons, Narciso (who, I think wrecked the last pair playing soccer, or something). Narciso needs the shoes for school. The kids wear uniforms to school.

We find that Juan is working with his machete on the weeds at the far end of the farm. OK, he’s about 200 yards down the creek. (The farm’s not big). We give him the weed eater, give Livia, his wife, the shoes and get in return a bag of zarzamora - a blackberry-like berry. Zarzamora can be eaten raw; it’s also excellent as a sherbet with a bit of orange or lime squeezed in. 

Juan has a request too. Coming in off the road we noticed water gushing up from the middle of the road. Someone had broken the water feed to the farm. Probably a heavily-laden farm truck. We need to get some of the thicker gauge 3” PVC pipe to repair it. 

Need gasoline. Need PVC. Pamela says she needs lunch. Lunch first. It’s 12:45.

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