| Amazing
St. Vincent |
| Windward
Island Of The West Indies |
| Whenever you
hear a group of divers discussing their favorite Caribbean dive destinations,
often with great conviction, you typically hear Grand Cayman, Cozumel,
The Bahamas, and the Florida Keys. Rarely do you ever hear destinations
such as St. Vincent and the Grenadines in the Windward Islands of the West
Indies. I came to St. Vincent to find out why.
When To
Go
Pretty much
anytime is a good time to visit the island. Twelve-knot trade winds can
be expected from October to July. This isn’t really a factor since all
diving is done on the leeward side of the island where marine conditions
are typically calm. August and September are the doldrums, when the wind
dies down. |
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| July to November
is the rainy season but brief showers are not uncommon throughout the rest
of the year.
Getting
There
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Most major
airlines fly into San Juan, Puerto Rico or to Barbados. From either port,
Liat Airlines and Caribbean Star Airlines offer turboprop service into
Kingstown, St. Vincent. The only jet service to St. Vincent is the weekly
707 cargo plane that runs every Tuesday. |
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| It uses the
entire length of the runway and takes off so low that, it’s jokingly said,
residents at the end of the runway often hand lunch up to the pilot as
he passes by.
Accommodations
The entire
island has about 100,000 residents. As one would expect of such a population
base, there are a number of hotel and condo choices.You can even charter
a yacht, if you wish.
For this trip,
a pre-arranged taxi was waiting at the airport and quickly transported
me to the Mariners Hotel. You would be hard pressed to find
a cleaner, better maintained hotel in a Caribbean destination. The staff
is friendly and eager to serve and the food is as tasty as it is reasonably
priced. At first glance, the breakfast menu is a bit limited but when I
asked about making any changes, the waitress was not only happy to do so
but even made additional suggestions. |
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Offshore
Resources Gallery
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| Electricity
is 220/240 volt, 50 cycle. Most hotels, including the Mariners, have 110
volt shaver outlets and/or voltage converters for guests, but it's best
to call ahead and confirm.
The Diving
St. Vincent
bills itself as the “muck” diving capitol of the Caribbean. Don’t
let the term fool you… muck diving means carefully and closely inspecting
the sand and reef structures for small critters. It has no bearing on the
actual water clarity, which routinely runs 50-70 feet and sometimes more.
It also does not imply there is only shallow water diving. The island’s
topside terrain is steeply sloping volcanic mountains and this terrain
continues below the water, as well. Reefs start in as little as 10 feet
(3 meters) and often continue well past recreational limits. Lots of long
spine sea urchins keep the reefs clean and pillar coral and huge gorgonians
are evidence of a very healthy marine eco system.
Dive St. Vincent
(www.divestvincent.com) is
one of only two larger dive operations on the island and has been around
for more than twenty years. |
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| The owner,
Bill Tewes, and his staff know these reefs backward and forward and no
one in the world may be better at finding unusual and seldom seen critters
than Bill.
There is
no one favorite dive site in St. Vincent. Whether crawling around in
the sand at 20 feet or hovering next to the wall at 136 feet, every dive
holds the opportunity to see marine creatures you’ve only read about or
things that have not yet even been published. Other than a solitary Almaco
Jack that cruised our group during a deep excursion along a wall, about
the largest predator we saw were healthy-sized Trumpetfish or Spotted Moray
Eels, both of which were abundant. Sharks, turtles, rays, and green morays
are so rare they are considered non-existent and there is no wreck diving
in St. Vincent.
Most dives
are in the 20-45 foot range and include a thorough site briefing as well
as a guide. |
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Offshore
Resources Gallery
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| The guide
will make liberal use of three important tools: Some sort of pointing
device, a powerful magnifying glass, and an erasable slate upon which he
will write the name of the critter you are looking at. If you are a photographer,
you might want to take a photo of the slate before or after you take a
photo of the animal; the guides are so good at finding them all of the
species names will blend together after a while.
Unless you’re
a serious air hog, the majority of dives will comfortably last more than
60 minutes. Dives that exceed 90 minutes are not unheard of, though that
is pushing it just a bit.
Top notch service
continues after returning to the dock: Whatever you leave on the boat after
diving will be rinsed and stored for you that evening, returned to the
boat the next morning, and set up for you.
Island Lifestyle
St. Vincent
people, or Vincies, as they are known, are genuinely friendly people who
all speak English. No, really… it is English. Vincies just speak very quickly.
If you have any doubt about what was said, just ask the person to say it
again but more slowly.
Should you
decide to rent a car, be aware driving is on the left hand side of the
road and it’s common practice to beep your horn before hills or sharp curves.
The
economy is based on the Eastern Caribbean dollar, which has an exchange
rate of approximately 3:1. US dollars are accepted everywhere but change
will most likely be made in EC dollars. Major credit cards are accepted
many places but it is always best to ask first.
Bottled water
is available but plenty of annual rainfall means there is no shortage of
potable water. You can feel safe to drink it straight from the tap, if
you wish.
For a couple
of years, a cruise ship stopped here, but Kingstown has very few of the
services most cruise ship passengers seek so they no longer visit. Someone
tried to operate a gambling casino for a while but that didn’t go over
very well, either, and is now closed. There are clubs both in town and
near the bigger hotels. Travelers are welcome but this is definitely not
the same atmosphere as Cozumel’s Carlos and Charlie’s environment. The
crime rate is said to be fairly low, compared to some Caribbean destinations,
largely due to the fact that everyone essentially knows everyone else so
it’s hard to get away with something. Most local police don’t even carry
weapons and there is no standing military.
Topside
Attractions
There are lots
of things to do if you decide to take a day off from diving or if you’re
traveling with a non-diver. Tours can be arranged to the volcano
(listed
as “active” but has not had an eruption since 1972), Trinity or Baleine
Falls, historic Fort Charlotte, or the oldest Botanical Gardens in the
Western Hemisphere. There are also seasonal events such as their own version
of Carnivale. Whale watching and dolphins watching tours to a nearby island
can also be arranged.
St. Vincent
has a distinct lack of large animals, surly attitudes, gambling, and cruise
ships. If you’re searching for a relaxing destination with good water clarity,
interesting marine creatures, terrific food, and a welcoming atmosphere,
this just might be the place for you.
I came here
in search of answers and found them. As Bill Tewes put it, “St. Vincent
is like everyplace you’ve never been before.” Yeah… I’ll second that.
To contact
John
Click Here
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