Amazing St. Vincent: Windward Island Of The West Indies ~ by John Easley
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Amazing St. Vincent 
Windward Island Of The West Indies ~ by John Easley
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Whenever you hear a group of divers discussing their favorite Caribbean dive destinations, often with great conviction, you typically hear Grand Cayman, Cozumel, The Bahamas, and the Florida Keys. Rarely do you ever hear destinations such as St. Vincent and the Grenadines in the Windward Islands of the West Indies. I came to St. Vincent to find out why.

When To Go

Pretty much anytime is a good time to visit the island. Twelve-knot trade winds can be expected from October to July. This isn’t really a factor since all diving is done on the leeward side of the island where marine conditions are typically calm. August and September are the doldrums, when the wind dies down. July to November is the rainy season but brief showers are not uncommon throughout the rest of the year.

Getting There

Most major airlines fly into San Juan, Puerto Rico or to Barbados. From either port, Liat Airlines and Caribbean Star Airlines offer turboprop service into Kingstown, St. Vincent. The only jet service to St. Vincent is the weekly 707 cargo plane that runs every Tuesday. It uses the entire length of the runway and takes off so low that, it’s jokingly said, residents at the end of the runway often hand lunch up to the pilot as he passes by.

Accommodations

The entire island has about 100,000 residents. As one would expect of such a population base, there are a number of hotel and condo choices. You can even charter a yacht, if you wish. 

For this trip, a pre-arranged taxi was waiting at the airport and quickly transported me to the Mariners Hotel. You would be hard pressed to find a cleaner, better maintained hotel in a Caribbean destination. The staff is friendly and eager to serve and the food is as tasty as it is reasonably priced. At first glance, the breakfast menu is a bit limited but when I asked about making any changes, the waitress was not only happy to do so but even made additional suggestions. 


 
Kingston Bay seen from Fort Charolette

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Electricity is 220/240 volt, 50 cycle. Most hotels, including the Mariners, have 110 volt shaver outlets and/or voltage converters for guests, but it's best to call ahead and confirm.

The Diving

St. Vincent bills itself as the “muck” diving capitol of the Caribbean. Don’t let the term fool you… muck diving means carefully and closely inspecting the sand and reef structures for small critters. It has no bearing on the actual water clarity, which routinely runs 50-70 feet and sometimes more. It also does not imply there is only shallow water diving. The island’s topside terrain is steeply sloping volcanic mountains and this terrain continues below the water, as well. Reefs start in as little as 10 feet (3 meters) and often continue well past recreational limits. Lots of long spine sea urchins keep the reefs clean and pillar coral and huge gorgonians are evidence of a very healthy marine eco system.
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Black and White Seahorse
Secretary Blenny
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Dive St. Vincent (www.divestvincent.com) is one of only two larger dive operations on the island and has been around for more than twenty years. The owner, Bill Tewes, and his staff know these reefs backward and forward and no one in the world may be better at finding unusual and seldom seen critters than Bill. 

There is no one favorite dive site in St. Vincent. Whether crawling around in the sand at 20 feet or hovering next to the wall at 136 feet, every dive holds the opportunity to see marine creatures you’ve only read about or things that have not yet even been published. Other than a solitary Almaco Jack that cruised our group during a deep excursion along a wall, about the largest predator we saw were healthy-sized Trumpetfish or Spotted Moray Eels, both of which were abundant. Sharks, turtles, rays, and green morays are so rare they are considered non-existent and there is no wreck diving in St. Vincent.

Most dives are in the 20-45 foot range and include a thorough site briefing as well as a guide. The guide will make liberal use of three important tools: Some sort of pointing device, a powerful magnifying glass, and an erasable slate upon which he will write the name of the critter you are looking at. If you are a photographer, you might want to take a photo of the slate before or after you take a photo of the animal; the guides are so good at finding them all of the species names will blend together after a while. 

Unless you’re a serious air hog, the majority of dives will comfortably last more than 60 minutes. Dives that exceed 90 minutes are not unheard of, though that is pushing it just a bit.

Top notch service continues after returning to the dock: Whatever you leave on the boat after diving will be rinsed and stored for you that evening, returned to the boat the next morning, and set up for you.

Island Lifestyle

St. Vincent people, or Vincies, as they are known, are genuinely friendly people who all speak English. No, really… it is English. Vincies just speak very quickly. If you have any doubt about what was said, just ask the person to say it again but more slowly.

Should you decide to rent a car, be aware driving is on the left hand side of the road and it’s common practice to beep your horn before hills or sharp curves. The economy is based on the Eastern Caribbean dollar, which has an exchange rate of approximately 3:1. US dollars are accepted everywhere but change will most likely be made in EC dollars. Major credit cards are accepted many places but it is always best to ask first.

Bottled water is available but plenty of annual rainfall means there is no shortage of potable water. You can feel safe to drink it straight from the tap, if you wish. 

For a couple of years, a cruise ship stopped here, but Kingstown has very few of the services most cruise ship passengers seek so they no longer visit. Someone tried to operate a gambling casino for a while but that didn’t go over very well, either, and is now closed. There are clubs both in town and near the bigger hotels. Travelers are welcome but this is definitely not the same atmosphere as Cozumel’s Carlos and Charlie’s environment. The crime rate is said to be fairly low, compared to some Caribbean destinations, largely due to the fact that everyone essentially knows everyone else so it’s hard to get away with something. Most local police don’t even carry weapons and there is no standing military.
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Yellow Longlure Frogfish on Orange Spounge
Juvenile Smooth Trunkfish
 
Topside Attractions

There are lots of things to do if you decide to take a day off from diving or if you’re traveling with a non-diver.  Tours can be arranged to the volcano (listed as “active” but has not had an eruption since 1972), Trinity or Baleine Falls, historic Fort Charlotte, or the oldest Botanical Gardens in the Western Hemisphere. There are also seasonal events such as their own version of Carnivale. Whale watching and dolphins watching tours to a nearby island can also be arranged.

St. Vincent has a distinct lack of large animals, surly attitudes, gambling, and cruise ships. If you’re searching for a relaxing destination with good water clarity, interesting marine creatures, terrific food, and a welcoming atmosphere, this just might be the place for you. 

I came here in search of answers and found them. As Bill Tewes put it, “St. Vincent is like everyplace you’ve never been before.” Yeah… I’ll second that.

To contact John Click Here
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Painted Elysia
Pederson Cleaner Shrimp with eggs


Punk Blenny With Mouth Open
Rematch!
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