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New Zealand’s Coromandel
Note From Travels In New Zealand 
Written And Photographed by David Lavoie
June 2005

The Coromandel is New Zealand’s playground. A region of rugged forests, dramatic scenery and beautiful beaches, it is home to a myriad of activities for both New Zealanders and visitors alike, especially those who enjoy being physically active. Consider this; within a relatively small area you can go swimming, surfing, fishing, yachting, boating, kayaking and water-skiing, scuba-diving and snorkeling, mountain hiking and biking, cycling, quad-biking, and horse trekking. When that’s done, you can relax in a cozy restaurant enjoying delicious sea food and excellent local white wine, or visit one of the many craft outlets usually in the home of the artist/craftsperson.

The Coromandel Peninsula, which is situated on the upper of the two large islands which constitute New Zealand, extends about 85 kilometres north from the western end of the Bay of Plenty. The peninsula is mountainous, and its slopes are extensively covered with subtropical rainforest. Its backbone, the Coromandel Range rises to 900 metres at spots and is high enough to influence local weather patterns. Clouds attempting to pass over the mountains frequently drop their rain in the hills, leaving the east coast predominantly drier and sunnier than the west. The same jagged mountains make the Coromandel a hiker’s paradise of dramatic vistas leading down to picturesque coves with golden and white beaches. Part of the appeal is New Zealand rich bird life. After all, New Zealand’s national symbol is a bird, the Kiwi, and no walk can fail to be associated with the lovely, haunting call of the Bell bird.

The Peninsula has only five towns with a population of over 1000 people. Like many places in New Zealand three of these towns have exotic Mauri names; Whitianga, Tairua and Whangamata. The other two are Thames and Coromandel itself, the latter named after the British Navy ship “H.M. S. Coromandel” which anchored in McGregor Bay in 1820 to renew its spars with local kauri wood and to take on a load of this sought-after timber.

In fact kauri was responsible for the early European development of the Coromandel followed in the 1850’s by the discovery of gold.

But all this is far from the Coromandel’s present nature. Today it is a recreational paradise with some of New Zealand’s finest beaches and holiday resorts.

Happily the Coromandel is also more than ready to accommodate those on all sorts of budgets. As well as a few luxury resorts, there are also facilities for back-packers, campgrounds and guesthouses.

Its five towns welcome visitors to streets lined with old wooden houses resplendent with fret work and characteristic pubs where you will be greeted with cheerful Kiwi (New Zealander) enthusiasm.

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This was our experience on a recent visit to relatives, Karen and Michael Leyden of Devonport who picked us up at the airport after an eleven hour flight from Kuala Lumpur and whisked us off immediately to the rustic charms of the Coromandel, about a three and a half hour drive from Aukland. On the way Mike decided that we should “stop for a pint” at a roadside pub and our first sight on entering the tavern was a large and cheerful young man wearing nothing but boots, diapers and a baby’s bonnet. It appeared that the pub was hosting the young man’s pre-wedding stag party and his startling attire was part of the fun! He seemed quite happy to have us join in .

We spent most of our time in the Coromandel at a seaside house called by New Zealanders a “bach”. These tend to be comfortable, but largely no-frills holiday homes although some of them become quite splendid indeed over the years. Our days were filled with long walks in the hills and along the sea coast searching for secluded coves which might afford some interesting snorkeling. We visited Cathedral Cove and ate a wonderful meal at a renovated church which is now an excellent restaurant called appropriately “The Church Restaurant.” Roli and Tina, the owner-chefs, specialize in fresh scallops and other sea food and delicious baked fish dishes.

This place is not to be missed if you are near Whitianga. In fact Whitianga is a popular destination for locals and tourists alike. The area affords easy access to secluded spots and surf beaches as well as many possibilities for serious game fishing and diving. Not to be missed is the afore-mentioned Cathedral Cove, an impressive rock arch on a beautiful beach of white sand. In the evening, make a visit to nearby Hot Water Beach, renowned for the hot springs bubbling up from beneath the sand. But be careful to dig you own pit to sit in; it’s bad form to steal someone else’s! The spring water is hot enough that you will have to mix in some sea water before enjoying your natural thermal bath.

New Zealand has so much to offer as a travel destination. Its people are friendly, helpful and courteous to visitors from away. Facilities are excellent and suited to travelers on sorts of budgets.

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The opportunities for either a physically active, or a more relaxed holiday are numerous. Should you be considering a visit, be sure to include the Coromandel; you will not soon forget the wild beauty of its forests, its sweeping beaches and secluded coves, craggy mountains and thunderous surfs. 

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