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From Cusco the road to Manu travels through dramatic terrain where deep valleys lead to the spectacular eastern ranges of the Andes and small farmsteads dot the picturesque landscape. After leaving the colonial town of Paucartambo the road begins its ascent to Acjanaco Pass (3850m), the official entrance to Manu National Park and our first view of the mystical Cloud Forest. High above the sea of clouds we stood mesmerized as we looked down upon an ocean that covered a rainforest. We marveled at cascading waterfalls and colorful orchids as the road descended into a thick cloak of clouds. This fascinating world is home to the Andean Cock-of-the-Rock, the Spectacled Bear, countless orchids, tree ferns, mosses and lichens. Starting from the eastern slope of the Andes, the Manu Biosphere Reserve protects one of the planet’s most important forest wildernesses. Manu was designated as a world biosphere reserve because it shelters the best example of biodiversity in rainforest protected areas, as well as cloud forest endemic areas. Manu has become famous for its possibilities to observe the flora and especially the fauna of the Amazonian rainforest. With over 1000 species of birds, Manu has one out of every nine on Earth, and 200 more than the entire USA. On a single salt lick 530 species were recorded in one year alone. Only a short walk from the Cloud
Forest Lodge, a viewing platform looked out into the jungle where morning
sunshine spilled through the canopy of trees in sharp rays of light. An
attractive bird with predominately red and blue feathers, the Cock-of-the-Rock
appeared almost on-call, landing in the trees before us, its ruby red body
gleaming upon a nearby branch. Only seconds later, the scarlet bird was
joined by a host of companions, filling the fluorescent jungle canopy with
bursts of firelight and cobalt as the males proudly displayed their crests.
Another unique feature of Manu Biosphere Reserve is that it offers the possibility of traveling overland through a variety of ecosystems, from the high Andean to lowland Amazonian, through elfin forest and cloud forest ecosystems. Along a 38-km stretch of gravel we would descend from the enchanted cloud forest to the Rio Madre de Dios. Having spent a fair amount of time traveling by bike in the States, we were a little reluctant to saddle up on the two-wheeled machines later to be known as the “Peruvian nightmares.” Knowing that our brakes were perhaps the single most important element involved in a six-hour descent over 2,000 feet, we were skeptical upon realization that the bikes provided by our guides were lacking this very thing. The descent was gradual though and we spent far more time spellbound by the dense mat of vegetation surrounding us. We attempted to identify and photograph as many species of orchid and butterfly as possible, but in a jungle that contains the highest biodiversity in the world, this proved a rather daunting task. For flora and fauna, the Manu Biosphere Reserve is pretty much unbeatable in South America. In a reserve that contains over 20,000 vascular plant types, one five-square-kilometer area was found to contain 1147 species of vascular plants, almost as many as in the whole of Great Britain. The park contains over 5000 flowering plants, 1200 species of butterfly, 200 kinds of mammal, 13 species of monkey and an unknown quantity of reptiles and insects. It is also the refuge of many endangered animals, including jaguar, black caiman, giant otter and harpy eagle. Our journey into Manu took us from dusty roads to rolling rivers. We traded our bikes for a raft and after a brief instruction headed into the Rio Madre de Dios nearly meeting disaster in our first rapid. The Peruvian paddling techniques were a bit lacking, our guide instructing us to abandon our positions when faced with oncoming rapids and throw our bodies onto the side of the raft. Nevertheless, we meandered down the jungle river spotting birds along the way and marveling at the immensity of the rainforest. Ringed by hills and thick, vibrant jungle, we arrived at the Erika Lodge, a gorgeous and serene spot situated on the banks of Rio Madre de Dios with a dining area, showers and rooms equipped with beds and ample mosquito netting. We spent two nights at Erika Lodge and rather enjoyed its comfortable setting. It was a pleasant spot to relax with a real “in the jungle” feel - scarlet macaws and all. From the lodge a well-worn footpath
disappeared into an abyss of trees, ferns and foliage. Intriguing and beautiful,
the jungle was cloaked in dampness and life, wondrous color and an abundance
of wildlife. It was a mystical land with sounds echoing everywhere. Shrieks
and cries. Branches breaking as unidentified creatures scattered through
the trees. It felt so abundant with life; yet so void of humans.
We left Erika Lodge on the fourth morning slipping upstream on the Rio Madre de Dios in a long, narrow transport boat. A misty morning fog blanketed the treetops and shielded the sky from view. Small raindrops pelted the murky waters while our guides slept comfortably under the roof of the boat, a far cry from the days of paddling upstream in dugout canoes. Instead, our modern vessel sped forward powered by a small outboard engine. It only took a short time to reach the village and board the bus for our long ride home. We felt a sting of discontent as we watched a land of hidden treasures, hiding animals, and ecological enchantment disappear in the rear-view mirror, soon to be replaced by bustling streets and city lights. With a surface too deep to scratch in just four days, we had to depart the jungle after just a taste. It was a love affair that had to begin somewhere and Manu had forever sparked my interest. The following articles are Kyle's previous articles for the magazine:
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Manu Biosphere Reserve
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Paddling
The Pathways Of Patagonia ~ 