| Wary of the
rising influence of the anti-alcohol movement, the Swedish Government began
moves to regulate the brewing industry.
By the mid-70s
just a dozen brewing groups owned the 25 breweries left in Sweden.
Fast forward to 1992 and seven companies owned the remaining 12 breweries.
A once thriving beer industry was struggling against the ropes.
With so little
brewing diversity the country was flooded with bland, heavily processed
and excessively taxed Pilsner-style beers.
This, coupled
with an increasingly powerful anti-alcohol lobby which demonised social
drinking did not make conditions ideal to establish a lively pub culture.
As a result,
generations of Swedes grew up drinking at home, limiting their trips
to the few pubs there were until the weekend after their monthly pay check
arrived.
All hope seemed
lost until an unlikely saviour came along to the rescue – the European
Community.
On the first
day of induction into the EU in 1995 the Swedish Government was forced
to abolish the law prohibiting the sale of any beer above 5.6%. At the
same time the state monopoly on importing alcohol was withdrawn, allowing
private companies free range to source beers from around the world.
This sudden
exposure to new beer styles and flavours has had a dramatic effect on the
modern Swedish beer and pub scenes.
Encouraged
by a revitalised interest in beer, a new generation of micro-breweries
has begun emerging, offering a real variety of styles and, at long last,
taste. Names to look out for include Nils Oscar Brewery, Jämtland
Brewery and Slottkällans Brewery.
At the same
time new pubs have been sprouting up all over the country, borrowing themes
and concepts from other countries in order to compensate for their lack
of indigenous pub culture.
Stockholm
has lead the way in opening a new wave of pubs, making in perfectly
possible today to sample beers from more than a dozen countries around
the world in a single night.
To help guide
you around the capital’s pubs I’ve drawn up a list of my personal top 10
Stockholm hostelries. If you like great beer and good food (I'd like
to add at a reasonable price - but I'd be lying) then I recommend visiting
any of these places.
In no particular
order:
Mackinlay's
Inn: This place isn't great, and it is way overpriced, the only
thing that saves it from obscurity is the selection of beers that you won't
find elsewhere in town.
Akkurat:
From the outside it looks like a car park, and inside the atmosphere can
be kind of boring. That's probably because everyone's too busy concentrating
on what they're drinking, as this is THE beer pub in Sweden with the greatest
selection of bottled and draft beer anywhere. If you like beer, you must
visit Akkurat.
Black
and Brown Inn: Not the most exciting place, but they serve hot
dogs for 10kr a piece until closing time, so that makes them a winner in
my book
Oliver
Twist: Usually impossible to find a place to stand on the weekend,
let alone sit down, OT has some of the best beers in Stockholm and the
best cared for lines. They also vary their selection often, so there's
plenty of reasons to keep coming back.
Bishops
Arms (Bellmansgatan) Location-wise this place is perfect, it's
in a quiet corner of Söder up on Bellmansgatan The beers are ok, but
if you like whisky this is where to go. I think they still do live music
on Sundays, and have outdoor seating. However, if you are lucky you'll
get the small table by the extremely fake fireplace.
Soldaten
Svejk: Despite what people tell you, this place is not "The
Czech Soldier", the name is from the Jaroslav Hasek book, "The Good
Soldier Schweik", which is sort of a Catch-22 based in WWI. I think
you have to be at the door when they open to get a seat, but it's worth
it for the Czech beers, which are delicious.
Tudor
Arms: They could have pulled this pub down in England, bought it
over on a boat and put it back up in the middle of Östermalm. Makes
me feel homesick just walking through the door. Good beers, good staff,
small, and awesome food.
Bull
and Bear located near Stureplan, this pub simply serves great beer.
I've never had a bad pint in here, and the staff are as professional as
they come. Food's a bit average, but the selection of beer (and whisky)
more than compensates. Get there early though, as this long and narrow
pub gets more crowded than the London underground after 10pm.
Man
in the Moon difficult to find in the backwaters of town, but once
you see the range of beers on offer you'll probably agree the walk will
have been worth it. A huge island bar dominates the place, but you can
always escape to a quiet corner for a bite to eat. Last time I had dinner
here the food was excellent - and very reasonably priced!
So enjoy,
but always remember to ring your bank manager before setting out into Stockholm
for a drink, because you may be heading for one of the most expensive hangovers
in the world!
Darren Packman
was born in 1969 in the south east of England but always harboured ambitions
to migrate south to warmer climes. The move to Umeå in the north
of Sweden therefore came as something of a shock. Darren is a qualified
journalist who worked on both regional and national newspapers for five
years before moving into public relations, where he spent an additional
five years writing about everything from beer to historic castles. After
moving to Sweden in 2000, Darren, along with his Swedish wife Sara, started
Marmalade Communications, a copywriting and translation web-based agency
providing services to both Swedish and international clients. Darren has
also worked as the Export Manger for Britain’s oldest brewer, and so has
spent much of the past five years flying around Europe getting people drunk,
including lots of Swedes, Danes and Finns. This hasn’t exactly been difficult
work. You can read about Darren’s experiences of moving to Sweden and living
there on his own blog at http://lagomlife.blogspot.com
To contact Darren
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