Living In Sweden: A Pint-size Guide To Stockholm ~ by Darren Packman
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Living In Sweden
A Pint-size Guide To Stockholm
By Darren Packman
June 2005

It’s not easy finding a Swedish pub in the country’s capital. In fact, there isn’t one, and believe you me I’ve looked. For the past five years I’ve lived as an English expat in Sweden working as an export manager for a British Brewery – a job that has required me to travel around much of the country and in particular the capital to drink in pubs. 

During my numerous forays in Stockholm I’ve guzzled pints in English bars, played the wild rover in Irish bars, been served by large men in kilts in Scottish bars, drunk insanely strong beers in Belgium bars and eaten Gulasch Saper Vodicka (I’m still trying to work out what this meal consisted of) in an authentic Czech bar.

But never once, in all my years of drinking in Stockholm, can I honestly say I’ve fallen into (or out of) a Swedish pub. The reason why there are no authentic Swedish pubs in the capital is a rather long-winded one, so you might want to pour yourself a stiff drink before reading on.
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Let’s start with the beer, as countries with thriving pub cultures tend to produce quality beers. Sweden’s international reputation for producing beer is not good. In fact, if I asked you what comes from Sweden, is easy to assemble, mass-produced, pretty to look at but often lacking in substance I wouldn’t be talking about furniture from IKEA -  I’d be talking about the beer.
In a recently published guide to the world’s top 500 beers, Sweden gets a single solitary mention (even Namibia gets more). Ironically it is for Carnegie Porter – a rugged, tasty stout which until the 1950s could only be prescribed by a doctor, and which brand owner Pripps tried to scrap in the late 1970s until public protests bought it back to the shelves. Perhaps the most telling measure of how low expectations of Swedish beer have sunk is how Swedish beer drinkers order it – automatically asking for a ‘stor stark’ (quite literally ‘big and strong’).

Having given up years ago trying to differentiate their beers by taste, many Swedes simply do it by strength and price – the higher and cheaper the better. It was a very different picture in Sweden in the early 1840s, when the introduction of bottom-fermenting beer by Fredrik Rosenqvist marked the beginning of a revival in beer consumption among a population of traditionally heavy spirit drinkers.

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Rosenqvist had spent time travelling through Germany, where he studied brewing methods. On his return home he rented a small brewery in Södermalm in Stockholm and put his new found knowledge to good use. In 1843 Sweden's first lager was launched. Other breweries soon imitated Rosenqvist's beer and a distinct Swedish lageröl style quickly developed. 

Lageröl was pale brown or dark amber in colour and relatively lightly hopped, with an alcohol content of around 5.5%.

This style of beer, in the form of Bayerskt, is still popular in Sweden today. 

Pils was introduced into Sweden in the 1870s. First, unsuccessfully, in 1876 by Alfred Sandwall in Borås. A year later, Franz Heiss, who had studied in Pilsen, started brewing a pilsener-bier in Stockholm. It was paler and much more bitter than the lageröl being produced, but the public quickly adapted to the new taste and it soon became the dominant beer style in Sweden. The resulting upsurge in beer production reached a crescendo in the beginning of the 20th century, with 240 breweries in operation.

Since then, however, Swedish society has done practically everything it can to dismantle its brewing industry. And it very nearly succeeded.

First to attack was the temperance movement, formed in the early 1900s as a reaction to the increasingly widespread abuse of spirits. The movement lobbied hard for total prohibition, and triggered a referendum in 1922 calling for the banning of all alcoholic drinks over 2.25%. An acrimonious campaign by pro and anti campaigners deeply divided the nation, creating social taboos surrounding the consumption of alcohol which are still very evident today.

The victory by those opposing prohibition, with the narrowest of margins – 51% to 49% against – was a hollow one. The real winner was the temperance movement, which although it didn’t yet know it, had already delivered a near knock-out blow to Sweden’s beer culture.

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Wary of the rising influence of the anti-alcohol movement, the Swedish Government began moves to regulate the brewing industry.

By the mid-70s just a dozen brewing groups owned the 25 breweries left in Sweden. Fast forward to 1992 and seven companies owned the remaining 12 breweries.  A once thriving beer industry was struggling against the ropes.

With so little brewing diversity the country was flooded with bland, heavily processed and excessively taxed Pilsner-style beers.

This, coupled with an increasingly powerful anti-alcohol lobby which demonised social drinking did not make conditions ideal to establish a lively pub culture.

As a result, generations of Swedes grew up drinking at home, limiting their trips to the few pubs there were until the weekend after their monthly pay check arrived.

All hope seemed lost until an unlikely saviour came along to the rescue – the European Community.

On the first day of induction into the EU in 1995 the Swedish Government was forced to abolish the law prohibiting the sale of any beer above 5.6%. At the same time the state monopoly on importing alcohol was withdrawn, allowing private companies free range to source beers from around the world. 

This sudden exposure to new beer styles and flavours has had a dramatic effect on the modern Swedish beer and pub scenes. 

Encouraged by a revitalised interest in beer, a new generation of micro-breweries has begun emerging, offering a real variety of styles and, at long last, taste. Names to look out for include Nils Oscar Brewery, Jämtland Brewery and Slottkällans Brewery.

At the same time new pubs have been sprouting up all over the country, borrowing themes and concepts from other countries in order to compensate for their lack of indigenous pub culture.

Stockholm has lead the way in opening a new wave of pubs, making in perfectly possible today  to sample beers from more than a dozen countries around the world in a single night.

To help guide you around the capital’s pubs I’ve drawn up a list of my personal top 10 Stockholm hostelries. If you like great beer and good food (I'd like to add at a reasonable price - but I'd be lying) then I recommend visiting any of these places.

In no particular order:

Mackinlay's Inn: This place isn't great, and it is way overpriced, the only thing that saves it from obscurity is the selection of beers that you won't find elsewhere in town.

Akkurat: From the outside it looks like a car park, and inside the atmosphere can be kind of boring. That's probably because everyone's too busy concentrating on what they're drinking, as this is THE beer pub in Sweden with the greatest selection of bottled and draft beer anywhere. If you like beer, you must visit Akkurat.

Black and Brown Inn: Not the most exciting place, but they serve hot dogs for 10kr a piece until closing time, so that makes them a winner in my book

Oliver Twist: Usually impossible to find a place to stand on the weekend, let alone sit down, OT has some of the best beers in Stockholm and the best cared for lines. They also vary their selection often, so there's plenty of reasons to keep coming back.

Bishops Arms (Bellmansgatan) Location-wise this place is perfect, it's in a quiet corner of Söder up on Bellmansgatan The beers are ok, but if you like whisky this is where to go. I think they still do live music on Sundays, and have outdoor seating. However, if you are lucky you'll get the small table by the extremely fake fireplace.

Soldaten Svejk: Despite what people tell you, this place is not "The Czech Soldier", the name is from the Jaroslav Hasek book, "The Good Soldier Schweik", which is sort of a Catch-22 based in WWI. I think you have to be at the door when they open to get a seat, but it's worth it for the Czech beers, which are delicious.

Tudor Arms: They could have pulled this pub down in England, bought it over on a boat and put it back up in the middle of Östermalm. Makes me feel homesick just walking through the door. Good beers, good staff, small, and awesome food.

Bull and Bear located near Stureplan, this pub simply serves great beer. I've never had a bad pint in here, and the staff are as professional as they come. Food's a bit average, but the selection of beer (and whisky) more than compensates. Get there early though, as this long and narrow pub gets more crowded than the London underground after 10pm.

Man in the Moon difficult to find in the backwaters of town, but once you see the range of beers on offer you'll probably agree the walk will have been worth it. A huge island bar dominates the place, but you can always escape to a quiet corner for a bite to eat. Last time I had dinner here the food was excellent - and very reasonably priced!

So enjoy, but always remember to ring your bank manager before setting out into Stockholm for a drink, because you may be heading for one of the most expensive hangovers in the world!

Darren Packman was born in 1969 in the south east of England but always harboured ambitions to migrate south to warmer climes. The move to Umeå in the north of Sweden therefore came as something of a shock. Darren is a qualified journalist who worked on both regional and national newspapers for five years before moving into public relations, where he spent an additional five years writing about everything from beer to historic castles. After moving to Sweden in 2000, Darren, along with his Swedish wife Sara, started Marmalade Communications, a copywriting and translation web-based agency providing services to both Swedish and international clients. Darren has also worked as the Export Manger for Britain’s oldest brewer, and so has spent much of the past five years flying around Europe getting people drunk, including lots of Swedes, Danes and Finns. This hasn’t exactly been difficult work. You can read about Darren’s experiences of moving to Sweden and living there on his own blog at http://lagomlife.blogspot.com To contact Darren Click Here

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