| Gratifying
The Wanderlust |
| The Best
Rewards Of Escaping |
| by Sandy Caputo |
| June 2005
Ex-pats often
give newcomers among them an appraising eye as they ask about “their
story” – this, an invitation to describe what it was that caused them
to abandon home and hearth for distant parts. The answers, of course, depend
a great deal on the locale of the conversation.
If it’s a tropical
beach where catching rays by day and dancing away the nights are the primary
attractions, you’ll hear one thing. If it’s a mini-version of what was
left behind, but doable at a greatly reduced cost of living, you’ll hear
another. |
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| But if the
ex-pat community has grown up as an integral part of an indigenous culture
you’ll note that the questioner is listening closely for clues that the
newcomer is looking to embrace more than just an escape.
Such is especially
true in the Mexican state of Michoacan where no one is looking to attract
newcomers unless they bring with them an appreciation for authenticity.
Surrounded
by the states of Guanajato to the north, Mexico to the east, Guerrero to
the south and Jalisco and Colima to the west, Michoacan has six geographic
regions replete with rich examples of a variety of cultural assets that
give the seeker of authentic other world experiences true joy.
These include
the continuing pursuit over thousands of years of traditions in faith,
dress, dining and dance, plus the production of works in pottery, wood,
stone, textiles, straw, leather and metal. Michoacan, in fact, has been
singled out, along with Oaxaca, as one of the major metal working centers
in Mesoamerica dating from before Spanish colonization. |
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| That these
crafts and works of art continue to be produced today – the required skills
having been passed down from mother to daughter, father to son, generation
after generation – makes for a wonderful experience for those who would
visit or settle into such a locale. It’s just a short drive from any
of Michoacan’s major population centers to any of the small pueblos that
dot all of the area’s six regions.
In each of
these little villages, native artisans may be seen at work often in the
very homes their ancestors’ occupied, sometimes still garbed in the same
style of clothing – not because they are on show for tourists, but because
this is how they still live today. That peek into a past that has so completely
disappeared for so many can be a marvelous awakening to those of us who’ve
just arrived from a faster-paced, modern society. One excellent example
is the region around Uruapan, known as the place where the trees always
bear fruit. |
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Offshore
Resources Gallery
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| Located 35
km southwest of the state capital of Morelia, Uruapan is home to a national
park with magnificent waterfalls and not far from Paricutan, the volcano
that in 1943 rose out of a farmer’s field as he tilled the soil.
Some 25 pueblos
surround Uruapan. The drive from one to the next features an unending panorama
of pine-filled Sierra Madre mountain-sides. Arriving at each, the visitor
finds a town square fronting a church, small stores that are usually a
part of the storekeeper’s home, a basketball court, a soccer field, and
the indigenous Purepecha people, working at the arts and the crafts that
represent their livelihood.
Their work
is well-represented across the state and frequently known and appreciated
internationally, but there’s nothing quite like visiting them as they work
in their homes and shops and feeling their pleasure when you admire what
they’ve created.
The Purepecha
Indians, also known as Tarascans, are a handsome people who take fierce
pride in their history and in their work. They are hospitable and genuine
in their appreciation for your visit and your interest. |
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| You leave
each place hoping that civilization takes a long time to encroach too closely
on what they’ve managed to preserve.
Still, you
can’t help but notice the occasional television blinking away in a back
room or the modish shoes worn by the young girls in the town square. Can’t
help wondering if they realize how badly they come off compared to the
hand-embroidered aprons that top their colorful pleated satin skirts and
lovely white blouses – the costume of their mothers that they most probably
are beginning to balk at wearing.
A fascinating
way to get a taste of what’s to be found in this area is to follow the
trail of professional art restorers as they work to reclaim and preserve
the native art found in the chapels of Don Vasco de Quiroga in Uruapan
and seven of its surrounding pueblos. |
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Offshore
Resources Gallery
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| Made possible
by the country’s Adopte Una Obra de Arte (Adopt an Object of Art)
project, the work is seeing the restoration of works that were in danger
of complete destruction due to the weathering of time and neglect.
You’ll be treated
to the before and after (and in some cases witness the work in progress)
in Nurio, Capacuaro, Pomacuran, Cocucho, Chapen, Zacan and Angahuan. Sometimes
worked into the original wet plaster of the interior walls, more often
painted onto the wooden surfaces of the ceilings, the combination of Roman
Catholic and indigenous images result in a fascinating recording of history
as those two cultures came together in the 16th and 17th century when religious
orders and lay clergy evangelized the Purepecha plateau.
As detailed
in the state of Michoacan’s tourism guides, “the religious architecture
in the Purepecha towns was characterized by the use of adobe (sun-dried
clay brick) in the walls, the mixture of mud used as mortar and walls of
volcanic rock with facades of carved pink stone. The constructions were
roofed with thin pine wood known as tejamanil and later on with
clay cured roof tile.”
The chapels
currently in the Adopt an Object of Art program may be toured in a single
day, moving east from Uruapan and then north and west, back south and then
east again to Uruapan. You’ll also be able to get a view of the town buried
by the Paricutin volcano. Completed nearly two years ago, the Chapel of
the Immaculate Conception in Nurio was listed on the 2002 World Monuments
Watch List of the 100 Most Endangered Sites.
Just outside
that chapel, you’ll find women working on intricately embroidered textiles
that are available for sale in every little home along the surrounding
streets. In Cocucho, you’ll find beautiful examples of hand thrown clay
pots, burnished in black and sized from the small to so large you’ll want
to return with a van to pack some up.
In every town
you’ll enjoy the welcome of the residents as they continue working at their
various crafts that also include stone, wood and whimsical clay figurines
– works you may simply admire or tuck under an arm and take away with you
as reminders of one of the major reasons why escaping can be so richly
rewarding.
The following
is Sandy's first article for the magazine:
To contact
Sandy Click Here
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