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Gratifying The Wanderlust
The Best Rewards Of Escaping
by Sandy Caputo
June 2005

Ex-pats often give newcomers among them an appraising eye as they ask about “their story” – this, an invitation to describe what it was that caused them to abandon home and hearth for distant parts. The answers, of course, depend a great deal on the locale of the conversation. 

If it’s a tropical beach where catching rays by day and dancing away the nights are the primary attractions, you’ll hear one thing. If it’s a mini-version of what was left behind, but doable at a greatly reduced cost of living, you’ll hear another. 

But if the ex-pat community has grown up as an integral part of an indigenous culture you’ll note that the questioner is listening closely for clues that the newcomer is looking to embrace more than just an escape.

Such is especially true in the Mexican state of Michoacan where no one is looking to attract newcomers unless they bring with them an appreciation for authenticity. 

Surrounded by the states of Guanajato to the north, Mexico to the east, Guerrero to the south and Jalisco and Colima to the west, Michoacan has six geographic regions replete with rich examples of a variety of cultural assets that give the seeker of authentic other world experiences true joy.

These include the continuing pursuit over thousands of years of traditions in faith, dress, dining and dance, plus the production of works in pottery, wood, stone, textiles, straw, leather and metal. Michoacan, in fact, has been singled out, along with Oaxaca, as one of the major metal working centers in Mesoamerica dating from before Spanish colonization.

That these crafts and works of art continue to be produced today – the required skills having been passed down from mother to daughter, father to son, generation after generation – makes for a wonderful experience for those who would visit or settle into such a locale. It’s just a short drive from any of Michoacan’s major population centers to any of the small pueblos that dot all of the area’s six regions. 

In each of these little villages, native artisans may be seen at work often in the very homes their ancestors’ occupied, sometimes still garbed in the same style of clothing – not because they are on show for tourists, but because this is how they still live today. That peek into a past that has so completely disappeared for so many can be a marvelous awakening to those of us who’ve just arrived from a faster-paced, modern society. One excellent example is the region around Uruapan, known as the place where the trees always bear fruit.

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Located 35 km southwest of the state capital of Morelia, Uruapan is home to a national park with magnificent waterfalls and not far from Paricutan, the volcano that in 1943 rose out of a farmer’s field as he tilled the soil. 

Some 25 pueblos surround Uruapan. The drive from one to the next features an unending panorama of pine-filled Sierra Madre mountain-sides. Arriving at each, the visitor finds a town square fronting a church, small stores that are usually a part of the storekeeper’s home, a basketball court, a soccer field, and the indigenous Purepecha people, working at the arts and the crafts that represent their livelihood.

Their work is well-represented across the state and frequently known and appreciated internationally, but there’s nothing quite like visiting them as they work in their homes and shops and feeling their pleasure when you admire what they’ve created.

The Purepecha Indians, also known as Tarascans, are a handsome people who take fierce pride in their history and in their work. They are hospitable and genuine in their appreciation for your visit and your interest. 

You leave each place hoping that civilization takes a long time to encroach too closely on what they’ve managed to preserve. 

Still, you can’t help but notice the occasional television blinking away in a back room or the modish shoes worn by the young girls in the town square. Can’t help wondering if they realize how badly they come off compared to the hand-embroidered aprons that top their colorful pleated satin skirts and lovely white blouses – the costume of their mothers that they most probably are beginning to balk at wearing. 

A fascinating way to get a taste of what’s to be found in this area is to follow the trail of professional art restorers as they work to reclaim and preserve the native art found in the chapels of Don Vasco de Quiroga in Uruapan and seven of its surrounding pueblos. 

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Made possible by the country’s Adopte Una Obra de Arte (Adopt an Object of Art) project, the work is seeing the restoration of works that were in danger of complete destruction due to the weathering of time and neglect. 

You’ll be treated to the before and after (and in some cases witness the work in progress) in Nurio, Capacuaro, Pomacuran, Cocucho, Chapen, Zacan and Angahuan. Sometimes worked into the original wet plaster of the interior walls, more often painted onto the wooden surfaces of the ceilings, the combination of Roman Catholic and indigenous images result in a fascinating recording of history as those two cultures came together in the 16th and 17th century when religious orders and lay clergy evangelized the Purepecha plateau.

As detailed in the state of Michoacan’s tourism guides, “the religious architecture in the Purepecha towns was characterized by the use of adobe (sun-dried clay brick) in the walls, the mixture of mud used as mortar and walls of volcanic rock with facades of carved pink stone. The constructions were roofed with thin pine wood known as tejamanil and later on with clay cured roof tile.”

The chapels currently in the Adopt an Object of Art program may be toured in a single day, moving east from Uruapan and then north and west, back south and then east again to Uruapan. You’ll also be able to get a view of the town buried by the Paricutin volcano. Completed nearly two years ago, the Chapel of the Immaculate Conception in Nurio was listed on the 2002 World Monuments Watch List of the 100 Most Endangered Sites. 

Just outside that chapel, you’ll find women working on intricately embroidered textiles that are available for sale in every little home along the surrounding streets. In Cocucho, you’ll find beautiful examples of hand thrown clay pots, burnished in black and sized from the small to so large you’ll want to return with a van to pack some up. 

In every town you’ll enjoy the welcome of the residents as they continue working at their various crafts that also include stone, wood and whimsical clay figurines – works you may simply admire or tuck under an arm and take away with you as reminders of one of the major reasons why escaping can be so richly rewarding. 

The following is Sandy's first article for the magazine:


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