Daily visits to my favorite Confiteria for café and masas vienesas (pastries), talking with taxi drivers who have a wealth of information, sniffing and slightly pinching tomates in the local market, stopping by at the next door musty antiquities shop and phoning from the Locutorio (for mail, internet, phone booths) all added to create conversations, questions and a sense of belonging. In a few days, faces and greetings became familiar. Here are some suggestions for pre-arranging an apartment. First, I found a reputable agency through the Internet. The agency’s website I used and others are listed at the end of this article. My intention is not to promote the agency I used but I do want to say they were reliable and friendly. It is their rental process that is used an example as each agency has its own procedure.

Once you are on the website look under Short Rentals. There you will be able to view several photos of available apartments and their specs. For example, one of the properties rents at the following prices: U$A 35 daily, U$A 160 weekly, and U$A 480 monthly. As you can see the longer the stay, the cost lessens. An aside: Sometimes prices will be listed in Pesos. Since there are close to three Pesos to the U.S. dollar it can make a difference in your choices. For example, a three course modest dinner could be listed at $15 Pesos while it is approximately $5 in U.S. dollars. The confusion lies in the use of the $ sign for both Pesos and U.S dollars.

The three Palermo barrios are, in part, some of the trendy areas and they have lush parks.

Once you have decided on a rental, send the agency the property code number. The agency will ask for a partial down payment that needs to be sent via Western Union. When they receive it you will have your apartment, loft, or palatial residence awaiting you.

Part of the arrangement can include being picked up at the Ezeiza International Airport, which is about 35 km from the city center. The 45-minute ride will cost about $20 U.S. When I arrived at the apartment my anxiety dissipated and a calm swept over me to see Victoria, the agency’s representative, waiting for me at the arched wrought iron main entrance door.

Victoria enlightened me about the classic traditionally charming, spacious apartment with three bedrooms that overlooked the Plaza Pena Park five stories below me. Each day I felt such pleasure while observing daily happenings in the park. There were the various lovers on the lovers’ bench, dogs and masters strolling, and Tai Chi on Sundays. 

The settling in process went well as I already knew that I would need to have a returnable damage deposit and an agency fee of 15% which is included in the stated price on the website.

Of course the partial down payment sent to them earlier is deducted from the total price of the rental. Even with the agency fee, the total cost of the apartment was very reasonable and less than comparable hotels. At this point you may be questioning the agency’s fee. For me, the pros outweighed the cons. Of course you can arrange an apartment through the newspapers and other means however the red tape and bureaucracy can be difficult to weave your way through. In addition, you need to get a local guarantor, two months deposit and a notary. The contracts are usually for a minimum of twelve months. 

When I arrived in Buenos Aires I was in my apartment and ready to go after two hours that included the taxi ride and the on-site process. By renting a property if you are looking at Buenos Aires as a possible city for relocation or for purchasing a property to rent out, you can learn how it feels to be in the barrio and your particular rental. In addition, the agency you use often sells properties as well, and can give you first hand information on prices as well a tour of various sites.

My solo adventure was even more exciting and affordable than I had expected. I was able to have an omelet for $2-$3, café for less than $1, a three course dinner for about $5 and sandwiches for $1-$2. I had arranged a full day tour to visit the Eva Peron historical sites, and then a short train ride along the coast, a four-course lunch and a catamaran ride on the Deltas of the Rio de la Plata near Tigre. The cost was $35 for everything. I arranged it through the Hotel Frossard. They were a source of information throughout my trip. Harrowing Taxi rides from my apartment to downtown ranged from $1-$2. Yes, there are many bargains for you in Buenos Aires. 

I can hardly wait to return to Buenos Aires. My recent solo adventure showed me the helpfulness of the Porteños and I felt safe in my apartment and the city at large. Due to the devaluation of the Peso in 2001 many people lost their money. Consequently, there is more crime than there used to be, usually in the form of theft. Just be aware and use normal precautions.

Buenos Aires is an immense city with soul. Sensuous tango and their passion for soccer are all part of its energy and vitality. It is often referred to as the “Paris of Latin America” because of its European ambience and Latin flair, but remember it is cheaper than Paris.

Below are some websites to provide information and help you get started in your search for an apartment in Buenos Aires. Along with rentals you will learn more about available properties for sale that you may wish to explore with the thought of relocation.

Websites: JR Reynolds (www.homes.com.ar) This is the agency I used for my apartment rental. Special thanks to Victoria Arnoldi, Karina Tranier and Ines Peper for their friendliness and competency. The owners are Paul and Maria Reynolds.

B.A. House (www.bahouse.com.ar)
www.turismo.gov.ar
www.alojargentina.com

• Prices and companies change…these prices are reflective of April 2005

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