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Life In Mexico
Moving To A New Sense
by Jan Morgan
May 2005

Progreso, Mexico

For two years now, my husband, Fred, and I, have lived in Mexico. It has been such an interesting time…I can’t remember any other short span in my life which offered such diversity, wonder, and sense of peace as these last years have.

We never planned to become residents of Mexico for a long stay. We figured that one year would give us a good feel for the country, and then we would move on to other parts of the world to explore.

On our agenda has been New Zealand, South America and Europe. Well, two years later we are still here, still enjoying life, learning the language, still learning a new sense of what life is about. It is difficult to explain to people who have never been to, nor even wanted to, visit another country and experience life through the eyes of a stranger...your own. Tourism is a beginning. Sometimes going to a place for a week’s vacation is the start of the appreciation of life there, creating a curiosity for more information.

My husband coined a good statement: “Tourists like to be entertained…travelers like to entertain themselves.” It pretty much wraps up our experience, because we definitely like to entertain ourselves in the neighborhoods and look for paths that lead away from the popular places.

Our Iniciation

I will share with you our experience of arriving in Mexico and of taking the bus from the Texas/Mexico border to our first home. We knew it would be easier to fly into the country, but we had read that Mexico has the largest bus system in the world, and wanted the experience of using it.

The long-distance buses are made by Mercedes and Volvo, and we just had to see them first hand! Everything that happened that day is etched in my memory, but for most people, it was just another bus trip.

We arrived in Reynosa, Mexico, at 2:45 p.m., after dropping off our rental car in McAllen, Texas and hiring a taxi to take us across the border (for $40). Man, what a bus terminal! The place was hot, hot, hot, with lots of adults, children and bags…not necessarily just suitcases, but nylon bags filled to the brim, tied with ropes as well. Many people appeared to just be there because they had nothing better to do! Maybe the lazy fans high on the ceiling were offering some comfort from the heat. No one at the ADO desk (our bus line) spoke any English, so, after writing and practicing my phrases over and over, I got up the courage to ask for our tickets. I gave her a $1000 peso note, given to us as a going-away present from a friend, plus an American $100 bill for our $170 fare.

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The $1,000 peso note should have been worth $100 or so, with the exchange rate being $10.60 at the time. The attendant looked at the peso note, looked at me, back at the peso note, and then disappeared into the back office. I was afraid she was going to come back and tell me the note was counterfeit! When she came back out, she handed me the peso note and said something to the effect of “better give me something else, because this one is no good.” Luckily, we hadn’t depended on paying with it, but we thought it would be a great way to start our trip…paying for our tickets with pesos! Wrong. As it turned out, none of the Mexican pesos we took with us were worth anything anymore. The peso had been devalued years ago, and new money had been minted and printed. Go figure!! 

So, here it is, 3 o’clock, and our bus wasn’t leaving until 8 p.m. We got the last 2 seats together, at the back of the bus. We had five hours to kill and seven bags to keep our eyes on. We took turns going to the bathroom (and had to pay to “go”), which had no toilet seats on the toilets. Hmmm….maybe it is easier to keep the toilets clean that way. We people-watched and dripped sweat for about an hour and a half, and then went down to the immigration office to apply for our tourist visas.

We went in shifts, with my husband going first so I could watch the bags. When it was my turn, the gentleman in the office asked me a few questions in Spanish, that I luckily understood, then gave me my tourist visa and said “Okay, Honey!” I guess that was the extent of his English!

There was one area in the station that had tables and chairs, instead of benches, and we wanted to sit there to play dominoes. The proper thing to do was to order some food, so that is what we did. We gave suckers to mothers for their crying children, watched people leave flowers and light candles at the permanent grotto to Our Lady of Guadalupe, and watched children chase after pigeons who share the terminal. Between the heat, the sticky marble floors and not understanding much Spanish, we actually fared quite well! We were on an adventure, and no amount of discomfort was going to spoil it!

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When it was time to head to the gate to board the bus, we corralled our bags and stood in front of the guards at the little turnstiles. One asked me what was in our bags….I told him “clothes,” and he passed us both through.  We traveled in the luxury bus with fully reclining seats, movies, blankets and pillows. We watched the sun go down and the green fields and small towns pass behind us, as our 14 hour ride began.

When we arrived, we got into a well-worn hatchback Nissan cab, driven by an older woman, to our first house in Mexico. She drove like all the locals …fast and furious, honking at each intersection to announce her presence, and avoid being hit. We arrived at our casita to begin our sojourn.

What Have We Learned?

Over these two years we have reveled in the experiences this country has to offer. Before we shopped at the local markets, we learned (and wrote down…just in case) the words for all the vegetables, fruits and foods we needed, and watched as the vendors smiled in amusement at our strange accents. The markets are an amazing combination of sights, sound and smell; people loudly hawking their wares, while others sit silently against the wall waiting for people to buy. The people are such combinations of features, too. You can readily see the Indian, Spanish and Cuban influences.

Some of the things I have noticed over our time here: Mexicans can be Italian, Chinese or Irish. I don’t know why I never thought of that before, but it made me understand my ignorance! Other cultural things: Shoe stores seem to be a very big business. Women still wear high heels, no matter if they are walking the steep streets of colonial Xalapa, Veracruz, or the flat streets of the Yucatan. Every taxi and bus has a rosary or two hanging on the mirror, and the drivers make the sign of the cross when they pass a church or cemetery.

About The People

People in Mexico are much more patient with foreigners than Americans are. They try to help at every turn, have ready smiles and love their children. Families spend time together, and you see grandmas, grandpas and children holding hands, talking and walking together.

People work very hard in Mexico. Concrete block is the norm for building, and power tools are not a common sight. When you see men build, they build walls first, and then cut out channels for the plumbing lines and electricity wires. They work twelve hours a day, and make about $40 a week. Many of the young women work in service, cleaning, washing clothes, and taking care of other people’s children. Just about every middle-class (and above) Mexican home has “help” and you will find one or two young women working there. Often they are just teenagers, and they are hired from surrounding villages where young girls are trained to cook, clean and care for children. When they are ready to marry and have their own children, they will find a replacement for themselves, from friends or family members back in the village.

Folks seem to eat out a lot, as the costs are so reasonable. During the day, little restaurants (referred to as a cocina economica…”economical kitchen”) open up for a couple of hours to serve lunch for about $2. Workers flock there during siesta time, when most offices and business close down. Your choice of fresh fish, chicken, meat and vegetables are served, along with rice, tortillas, a cold drink and dessert. In the evenings, street vendors open up their portable food wagons after 7 or 8 p.m. so people can have their late-night snacks. You will find pork sandwiches, hamburgers, tacos, and ears of corn for sale on just about every corner, along with lots of Coca Cola. If you want to eat healthy, stay away from the street vendors!

Culture

Mexico is full of culture. The symphonies and museums in the large cities have great attendance, and are affordable for everyone (we pay about $4 for a ticket to each). Most museums, galleries and cultural venues are open to the public for free on Sundays as well. The archeological sites are flooded with tourists and locals alike.   It is a humbling experience to stand at an ancient ruin and realize that the people of that day built structures that are still standing 2000 years later…and that defy explanation of how they were built. They knew the exacting sciences of building pyramids on compass points, so that the sun shone in alignment with certain spots that would tell them it was time for planting and harvesting. And they decorated them with intricate pictures and symbols before iron tools were available.

We have learned so much from our research and experiences that we have formed a website (www.mexicoanswers.com) which answers many questions about moving to and living in Mexico. It took many months of research before we came, and we discovered that there was very little practical information offered on the internet, and so we decided to put it together for curious travelers seeking first-hand information.

A Much Simpler Way Of Life

Over all, it is amazing to see how simply life can be lived. We have experienced what it is like to live without a telephone…(not as difficult as I thought), not having hot water in the kitchen for washing dishes, living without voice mail, call forwarding or cell phones.  If we can’t find foods we are used to, we get used to the foods we can find! We don’t have mail delivery, and there are no mail boxes on the corners. If we want to receive mail, we go to the post office and register. Stamps are very expensive, and the local mailing charge is 60 cents. Stamps for air mail are 90 cents.

We have seen neighborhoods where people live without electricity, running water, indoor kitchens or even indoor plumbing. And they are not cranky, don’t feel poor, and seem to live a sensible life.

The Best Of All Worlds

The last year and a half we have lived on the ocean, and have traded a city life for the slow pace of a fishing village. Our bus ride to Progreso was 14 hours in a van with three young men who were our movers. Now, we watch gulls and pelicans search for lunch and dinner in the Gulf in front of our home, we watch people on horseback ride on the beach, and sandal-less tourists stroll the shore, combing the sand for shells. But we are within 30 minutes of Merida, where we can find anything we need. We can go to the movies, shop at Costco, Wal-Mart or eat at McDonald’s if we choose. We have been spoiled by having internet and satellite T.V. in our home. We haven’t been looking for a “spartan” existence, just a bit simpler one!

Our travels have taken us to ancient Mayan ruins, the shores of the Caribbean, small towns so far removed from modern-day things that you forget it is 2005. Maybe they have the right idea…we seem to see many old people, so obviously the slower pace has kept people living longer and healthier. Whatever their secret, we like it and intend to stay a while longer…we have moved to a new sense.

The following are Jan's previous articles for the magazine:

Jan and her husband, Fred, retired from Chicago, and then moved to Pueblo, Colorado before setting off for Mexico. For more information about moving to and living in Mexico, see their website www.mexicoanswers.com
For questions or comments, you can contact Jan at janbek@mexicoanswers.com

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