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Living
In Gascony!
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| Magical
France |
| By Rosemary Jaworsky |
| April 2005
Gascony,
France
Moving
To Gascony
For some of
you, Gascony is the tale of dÁrtagnan and the 3 musketeers, but
for those of us privileged to have found this beautiful and as yet, truly
unspoilt part of SW France, it is paradise... The GERS region (department
32), lies south of Bordeaux, east of a 200K stretch of pure white sand,
Atlantic beaches (from Biarritz to Arcachon), and north of the Pyrenees. |
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| It is a region
full of magnificent splendour, chateaux, bastides, rolling hills, sunflowers
and of course a great viticulture. It is also the birthplace of Armagnac,
a relatively unknown ”eau de vie” outside of France, but equal in
character to that of the best of Cognacs!
ARMAGNAC
and the Cotes de Gascogne region doesn’t have the international recognition
it truly deserves; it should, for it produces wines of outstanding character,
in particular an assortment of the reds from Cotes de Saint Mont and local
whites such as Florenbelle and Colombelle. And at prices less than a bottle
of Perrier, as locals, we are certainly not going to complain.
When you couple
the wines, Armagnac, Floc and Bellesandrine with the Gascon cuisine,
such as foie gras, confit de canard and magret de canard; you will know
you have discovered the great gastronomy of Gascony! Then add the rolling
vineyards and carpeted hills of sunflowers and fields of yellow flax and
you know you ARE IN Paradise!
Food and beverages
aside, this is an area of great beauty and charm and yet is still relatively
untouched and waiting to be discovered, although it is changing. |
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| I, for one,
moved here just 18 months ago. Leaving America behind, I came to escape
to a calmer, less stressful, less litigious, less “must have”, way
of life. Here, wealth lies in the “soil”, body and mind! There are
no fancy cars, no overt and extravagant displays of wealth, just smiling,
happy and healthy people. It is a known fact that the fat from the goose,
used in all kinds of Gascon cooking, is one of the healthiest ingredients
to include in a meal. With the average life expectancy rate of 94 years,
who would argue? My neighbour, a woman of late years (early 90´s)
still works the vineyards and tends and feeds her chickens, ducks and geese
everyday.
Another retired
neighbour works his vineyard, raises thoroughbred horses (3 new foals
this past week), chops his own wood, builds his own fences, while simultaneously
helping another neighbour renovate a house and yet claims he is retired!
In fact, we buy our local table wine from him, straight from the barrel
and at 1.00 Euro per litre, we don’t mind that we have to take our own
empty water bottles for the fill up. |
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Offshore Resources Gallery
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| Living in
Gascony is indeed another way of life. It is tranquil, slow, yet refreshing
and enlightening. We have found the locals to be more Spanish than French.
Local Spanish customs and influence abounds, with tapas and paella to name
but a few. But perhaps the biggest Spanish custom is that of the Corridor...
The bullfights! Almost every village has its own bullring with
the traditional Spanish Corridor and the SW French version the “course
landaise”, where the bull is spared! I prefer the French course landaise
version!
Many of the
older folks actually speak Spanish, which was taught as their second language
in school. In addition to Spanish, the local dialect is Occitan, a language
that pre-dates the Roman era, but is slowly fading from use. Evidence
of the early settlers and invaders (Romans, English and Spanish)
exists in almost every village, with well preserved castles, bastides,
churches, cathedrals, chateaux and chatreuse.
The Gers is
a large department with boundaries approaching Toulouse in the East, Agen
in the North East, Aire sur lÁdour in the south and Mont de Marsan
in the North West. Given its desirable proximity to Bordeaux, Toulouse
and Pau airports, it makes for ideal gateways for both winter and summer
holidays. |
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| Pau is the
gateway for French and Spanish Pyrenean skiing and snowboarding in winter
and Spanish and French beach resorts in summer. Bordeaux to the north is
the major gateway to one of the best wine regions in France, while Toulouse
to the East opens up the way to the Mediterranean coast. Forays into Spain
are a fun and easy day trip.
The Gascony
region is rich in culture and history and there exists a very strong self-identity,
probably due to its shared border with the Spanish Basque region, which
crosses over into France. All in all, I have found the locals to be very
charming, friendly and helpful. In fact, much to the surprise of a recent
visitor from Miami, who proclaimed “he couldn’t believe he was in France!”
Where was the rude, brusque, unfriendly Frenchman that is indelibly ingrained
in the mind of most of the visiting Americans (to Paris)? I say,
they must be in the rest of France. |
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Offshore
Resources Gallery
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| Gascony is
a part of France that seems to have been left behind with the times. It
is still one of the most rural departments in France, least populated,
per square kilometre, least industrialized, and as yet, unspoiled! Perfect
for cycling, as in the Tour de France, walking, touring, wine tasting and
sampling the local Gascon cuisine and then soaking up the sun.
Due to its
unique SW location, it is protected from the harsh Atlantic winds in
winter by its neighboring, heavily forested department, the Landes. It
is sheltered from snow in winter by the tall Pyrenees and it enjoys mild
and early springs, beginning at the end of February. The long, languorous
summers, continue well into October and finally close with a late autumn
before the onset of winter in late November. This part of the Western Gers
has what is known as a micro climate. Bathed for nearly 8 months of the
year in magnificent sunshine and a relatively dry climate, makes for excellent
outdoor recreational activities and almost year round al-fresco dining.
Summer day temperatures reach into the high 80´s F and low 90´s
F, with spring and fall temperatures hovering in the mid 70´s F.
Refreshingly, the nights stay cool! It is as close as I know, to a climate
that could be compared to that of Napa and Sonoma valleys in California.
No wonder some of the wines here could easily stand alongside some of the
gold medal winners of California, but without the same price tag! Yes,
it is still very easy to find a good bottle of barrel fermented Cotes de
Gascogne wine for fewer than 3.00 Euros and a young red table wine for
1.00 Euro!
So,
for those of you who might like to explore this region, or even have thoughts
of an “Escape”, a few things to keep in mind. A little French goes
a long way and a little Spanish makes things easier. Although, when I moved
here, my French was non existent and my Spanish was rough. Today, I can
make myself understood on the phone and can read through most basic forms
of correspondence without a lesson in French, although I would still recommend
some lessons! For the most part, English is spoken in most of the towns
and villages and with the area growing in tourism, it is not difficult
to be understood and to get along with plain English.
Many of the
GERS´previous
homebuyers were from England, Holland and Belgium and so English has become
the second language of choice. Today, there appears to be renewed interest
from the French, who are moving in from the north of France. Two recent
residents are from Paris and Lille. Their reason for moving, same as me,
“escape from the big cities and the rat race”.
So,
what does all of this do to the price of houses? Well, they are heading
upwards, but not at the same pace as other very over priced places such
as Provence, where a small 3 bedroom cottage, more than one hour from the
coast will set you back more than 400,000 Euros (over 500.000 dollars).
Here in the western Gers, you can still find a nice 3 bedroom property
for 200,000 Euros and if you don’t mind renovating, it is still possible
to buy for 100,000 Euros.
For some people
though, the thought of owning a second home or vacation property in a traditionally
non-English speaking area can be daunting. Dealing with the taxes, insurance,
property maintenance, etc. and when only using it 3 or 4 times per year
it is often not cost effective. Handling rentals from a long distance can
also be difficult. I know, I owned, rented and managed a secondary home
in Spain for 5 years. Without good local management it is almost impossible.
However,
there is a way to have your cake and eat it too! A concept that is being
developed and being implemented here in France will allow for that holiday
home ownership without the day to day hands on personal management. It
is called the HOME SHARE program. (Entirely different from a Time Share
Program!) There is a couple of different way to approach this type
of home ownership. One is through the purchase of company stock, where
a single property has been purposely purchased for the use of its shareholders.
In France it is called an SCI (Societe Civile Immobilier).
I.e. 4 – 6 shareholders have co-ownership and exclusive use of the property
for a set number of weeks each year, depending on the number of shareholders.
Each shareholder would have monthly or quarterly obligations for shared
operating and maintenance costs, but would also have the right rent out
any portion of their annual use. By being a shareholder, an individual
would have the right to sell his or her stock at any given time. The shareholders
are governed by a legal document outlining each shareholders responsibility
as it relates to the “Homeowners Operating Agreement”. Annual assessed
dues normally pay for property taxes, insurance, utilities, property maintenance
and a fee for a local property attendant. This takes away the stress of
individual ownership, but still gives each shareholder actual co-ownership
of the property and annual use, based on the percentage of shares purchased
under the original Home Share Offer. Any shareholder wishing to sell his
or her stock would first offer them to existing home owners.
A second form
of shared home ownership is when a larger property has been purchased.
There are often large properties on the market that are not economical
for one family ownership. In this case, where a number of outbuilding have
been converted into small secondary homes. Again, stock in the entire property
would be offered based on the number and size of the secondary converted
homes. A number of shares is then allocated to each property that gives
that shareholder the exclusive right and use of an “individual”
home, with a shared right of use to the common areas and facilities,
i.e. swimming pool, gardens, etc. In this instance a Homeowners Operating
Agreement is also drawn up, with annual dues covering the same as the Home
Share Plan, with the exception of individual home content insurance and
individual heating and electricity usage.
If you are
interested or would like more information on the above two real estate
programs, please contact me at: rosemary.jaworsky@wanadoo.fr
Additionally, if you would like some information on my personal experiences
and observations of life in Gascony, I would be happy to answer as many
of your questions as I possible can.
You can also
check out: www.gers-gascogne.com{fr}
Come and visit and enjoy life as a Gascon. |
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