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Living In Gascony! 
Magical France
By Rosemary Jaworsky
April 2005

Gascony, France
Moving To Gascony

For some of you, Gascony is the tale of dÁrtagnan and the 3 musketeers, but for those of us privileged to have found this beautiful and as yet, truly unspoilt part of SW France, it is paradise... The GERS region (department 32), lies south of Bordeaux, east of a 200K stretch of pure white sand, Atlantic beaches (from Biarritz to Arcachon), and north of the Pyrenees.

It is a region full of magnificent splendour, chateaux, bastides, rolling hills, sunflowers  and of course a great viticulture. It is also the birthplace of Armagnac, a relatively unknown ”eau de vie” outside of France, but equal in character to that of the best of Cognacs!

ARMAGNAC and the Cotes de Gascogne region doesn’t have the international  recognition it truly deserves; it should, for it produces wines of outstanding character, in particular an assortment of the reds from Cotes de Saint Mont and local whites such as Florenbelle and Colombelle. And at prices less than a bottle of Perrier, as locals, we are certainly not going to complain.

When you couple the wines, Armagnac, Floc and  Bellesandrine with the Gascon cuisine, such as foie gras, confit de canard and magret de canard; you will know you have discovered the great gastronomy of Gascony! Then add the rolling vineyards and carpeted hills of sunflowers and fields of yellow flax and you know you ARE IN Paradise!

Food and beverages aside, this is an area of great beauty and charm and yet is still relatively untouched and waiting to be discovered, although it is changing.

I, for one, moved here just 18 months ago. Leaving America behind, I came to escape to a calmer, less stressful, less litigious, less “must have”, way of life. Here, wealth lies in the “soil”, body and mind! There are no fancy cars, no overt and extravagant displays of wealth, just smiling, happy and healthy people. It is a known fact that the fat from the goose, used in all kinds of Gascon cooking, is one of the healthiest ingredients to include in a meal. With the average life expectancy rate of 94 years, who would argue? My neighbour, a woman of late years (early 90´s) still works the vineyards and tends and feeds her chickens, ducks and geese everyday.

Another retired neighbour works his vineyard, raises thoroughbred horses (3 new foals this past week), chops his own wood, builds his own fences, while simultaneously helping another neighbour renovate a house and yet claims he is retired! In fact, we buy our local table wine from him, straight from the barrel and at 1.00 Euro per litre, we don’t mind that we have to take our own empty water bottles for the fill up.

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Living in Gascony is indeed another way of life. It is tranquil, slow, yet refreshing and enlightening. We have found the locals to be more Spanish than French. Local Spanish customs and influence abounds, with tapas and paella to name but a few. But perhaps the biggest Spanish custom is that of the Corridor... The bullfights!   Almost every village has its own bullring with the traditional Spanish Corridor and the SW French version the “course landaise”, where the bull is spared! I prefer the French course landaise version!

Many of the older folks actually speak Spanish, which was taught as their second language in school. In addition to Spanish, the local dialect is Occitan, a language that pre-dates the Roman era, but is slowly fading from use.  Evidence of the early settlers and invaders (Romans, English and Spanish) exists in almost every village, with well preserved castles, bastides, churches, cathedrals, chateaux and chatreuse.

The Gers is a large department with boundaries approaching Toulouse in the East, Agen in the North East, Aire sur lÁdour in the south and Mont de Marsan in the North West. Given its desirable proximity to Bordeaux, Toulouse and Pau airports, it makes for ideal gateways for both winter and summer holidays.

Pau is the gateway for French and Spanish Pyrenean skiing and snowboarding in winter and Spanish and French beach resorts in summer. Bordeaux to the north is the major gateway to one of the best wine regions in France, while Toulouse to the East opens up the way to the Mediterranean coast. Forays into Spain are a fun and easy day trip.

The Gascony region is rich in culture and history and there exists a very strong self-identity, probably due to its shared border with the Spanish Basque region, which crosses over into France. All in all, I have found the locals to be very charming, friendly and helpful. In fact, much to the surprise of a recent visitor from Miami, who proclaimed “he couldn’t believe he was in France!” Where was the rude, brusque, unfriendly Frenchman that is indelibly ingrained in the mind of most of the visiting Americans (to Paris)? I say, they must be in the rest of France.

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Gascony is a part of France that seems to have been left behind with the times. It is still one of the most rural departments in France, least populated, per square kilometre, least industrialized, and as yet, unspoiled! Perfect for cycling, as in the Tour de France, walking, touring, wine tasting and sampling the local Gascon cuisine and then soaking up the sun.

Due to its unique SW location, it is protected from the harsh Atlantic winds in winter by its neighboring, heavily forested department, the Landes. It is sheltered from snow in winter by the tall Pyrenees and it enjoys mild and early springs, beginning at the end of February. The long, languorous summers, continue well into October and finally close with a late autumn before the onset of winter in late November. This part of the Western Gers has what is known as a micro climate. Bathed for nearly 8 months of the year in magnificent sunshine and a relatively dry climate, makes for excellent outdoor recreational activities and almost year round al-fresco dining. Summer day temperatures reach into the high 80´s F and low 90´s F, with spring and fall temperatures hovering in the mid 70´s F. Refreshingly, the nights stay cool! It is as close as I know, to a climate that could be compared to that of Napa and Sonoma valleys in California. No wonder some of the wines here could easily stand alongside some of the gold medal winners of California, but without the same price tag! Yes, it is still very easy to find a good bottle of barrel fermented Cotes de Gascogne wine for fewer than 3.00 Euros and a young red table wine for 1.00 Euro! 

So, for those of you who might like to explore this region, or even have thoughts of an “Escape”, a few things to keep in mind. A little French goes a long way and a little Spanish makes things easier. Although, when I moved here, my French was non existent and my Spanish was rough. Today, I can make myself understood on the phone and can read through most basic forms of correspondence without a lesson in French, although I would still recommend some lessons! For the most part, English is spoken in most of the towns and villages and with the area growing in tourism, it is not difficult to be understood and to get along with plain English.

Many of the GERS´previous homebuyers were from England, Holland and Belgium and so English has become the second language of choice. Today, there appears to be renewed interest from the French, who are moving in from the north of France. Two recent residents are from Paris and Lille. Their reason for moving, same as me, “escape from the big cities and the rat race”.

So, what does all of this do to the price of houses? Well, they are heading upwards, but not at the same pace as other very over priced places such as Provence, where a small 3 bedroom cottage, more than one hour from the coast will set you back more than 400,000 Euros (over 500.000 dollars). Here in the western Gers, you can still find a nice 3 bedroom property for 200,000 Euros and if you don’t mind renovating, it is still possible to buy for 100,000 Euros.
 

For some people though, the thought of owning a second home or vacation property in a traditionally non-English speaking area can be daunting. Dealing with the taxes, insurance, property maintenance, etc. and when only using it 3 or 4 times per year it is often not cost effective. Handling rentals from a long distance can also be difficult. I know, I owned, rented and managed a secondary home in Spain for 5 years. Without good local management it is almost impossible.

However, there is a way to have your cake and eat it too! A concept that is being developed and being implemented here in France will allow for that holiday home ownership without the day to day hands on personal management. It is called the HOME SHARE program. (Entirely different from a Time Share Program!) There is a couple of different way to approach this type of home ownership. One is through the purchase of company stock, where a single property has been purposely purchased for the use of its shareholders. In France it is called an SCI (Societe Civile Immobilier). I.e. 4 – 6 shareholders have co-ownership and exclusive use of the property for a set number of weeks each year, depending on the number of shareholders. Each shareholder would have monthly or quarterly obligations for shared operating and maintenance costs, but would also have the right rent out any portion of their annual use. By being a shareholder, an individual would have the right to sell his or her stock at any given time. The shareholders are governed by a legal document outlining each shareholders responsibility as it relates to the “Homeowners Operating Agreement”. Annual assessed dues normally pay for property taxes, insurance, utilities, property maintenance and a fee for a local property attendant. This takes away the stress of individual ownership, but still gives each shareholder actual co-ownership of the property and annual use, based on the percentage of shares purchased under the original Home Share Offer. Any shareholder wishing to sell his or her stock would first offer them to existing home owners.

A second form of shared home ownership is when a larger property has been purchased. There are often large properties on the market that are not economical for one family ownership. In this case, where a number of outbuilding have been converted into small secondary homes. Again, stock in the entire property would be offered based on the number and size of the secondary converted homes. A number of shares is then allocated to each property that gives that shareholder the exclusive right and use of an “individual” home, with a shared right of  use to the common areas and facilities, i.e. swimming pool, gardens, etc. In this instance a Homeowners Operating Agreement is also drawn up, with annual dues covering the same as the Home Share Plan, with the exception of individual home content insurance and individual heating and electricity usage.

If you are interested or would like more information on the above two real estate programs, please contact me at: rosemary.jaworsky@wanadoo.fr Additionally, if you would like some information on my personal experiences and observations of life in Gascony, I would be happy to answer as many of your questions as I possible can. 

You can also check out: www.gers-gascogne.com{fr} Come and visit and enjoy life as a Gascon.

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