Discover The Secret Of Isalo: Adventures In The South Western Corner Of Madagascar ~ by Harinia
Home PageHome PageOverseas JobsLiving OverseasCountry ProfilesArticleseBooks For ExpatsOur MagazineOffshore InvestmentsTravelEncryped eMailInternational MarketplaceInternational Real EstateBoats Barges YachtsOverseas RetirementEmbassies
Escape From America Magazine
 < Disclaimer> < Return To Issue Article Index >
 
Send This WebPage To A Friend!
Discover The Secret Of Isalo
Adventures In The South Western Corner Of Madagascar ~ by Harinia
...
One of the most frequented National Parks in Madagascar is Isalo. From Antananarivo the RN7 will lead you to Isalo National Park. Taking the road, you will reach the province of Fianarantsoa (408 km from Tana) before arriving in Isalo (206 km from Fianarantsoa.) Situated in the south western corner of Madagascar, the lsalo range raises its rocky heads on the distant horizon. Isalo National Park which is a spectacular site, completely silent and full of mysteries, was created in 1962 and covers 81,540 hectares. As our guides told us, during the rainy season that extends from November to March, the late afternoon sky above Isalo darkens. Then over the Isalo mountain range descends a soft and dark blanket of clouds. Far above the clouds the evening sky turns a pure pastel blue. The grass turns a tender, luminescent green. At this hour Isalo seems to break its promise of silence that rules its days. A soft wind rustles the tall grasses and carrys the smell of the earth. The rain does not fall for long, and on its retreat rainbows span across the sky and mountains and the fire of the sun descends under the clouds and lights up the ridges of the mountain peaks. 

If a normal evening brings to mind so many pictures, what about the days? We only had three days to explore the beauty of Isalo. When we arrived there on 05 January 2005 it rained. Most of us (14 people) were very surprised to see the beauty of Isalo; the deep canyons and narrow streams; Isalo's rock formations have been carved by wind and rain for centuries. We were also captivated by the mysterious and fascinating creatures that inhabit Isalo. Once we arrived we tried to find the Parks Board (ANGAP) at Ranohira, the town situated near the National Park of Isalo. 

Lemurs
..
The Maison de l’Isalo (House of Isalo in English), an extraordinary house built of stones inside the Park by the Parks Board (ANGAP or Association Nationale pour Gestion des Aires protégées), provides guidelines to the understanding of the Park's environment. There is also a small exhibition which helps the vistor to understand the geology, fauna and flora and the people (Sakalava are the most important tribe in Madagascar, status within Sakalava society is determined by how many zebu a person owns; before zebu, status was determined by the number of slaves! The Bara are also an important tribe; they live in the central part of the country and are nomadic herders. They are warriors who steal zebu to prove their virility. Their dead are buried at the bottom of deep caverns.) who live in Isalo. In fact there are many hotels with bungalows like L’Etoile de l’Isalo at Ranohira or Isalo Ranch about 5 km from Ranohira (15 bungalows) but if you are too tired from your journey, go up to Isalo and stay at the Relais de la Reine (tél 22 261 20 or 22 351 65), a 24 room hotel that is built of local stone. In fact, Relais de la Reine constitutes a quite unusual model of architecture. You can enjoy wonderful excursions trekking or horseback riding in the Park.
.
Trail information at Isalo
Nono, one of our ANGAP's guides showed us the sites we needed to visit - they were the following: Fenêtre de l’Isalo, Piscine naturelle: 6 km from Ranohira, Cascade des nymphes, or Namazà: piscine bleue and piscine noire. To reach these sites the road is rather difficult, plenty of rocks to scramble over but the walk itself is lovely. Nono told us that scientists call this rock information Le massif ruiniforme (ruin-shaped massif). As we walk through the Park we see many different types of wildlife: crocodiles, lemurs, even a horse. We also see the Queen of Isalo, a rock formation that is shaped like the profile of a crowned female head.

In the Park, grassy prairies extend everywhere, curving around peaks that look like ruins, filling every space available. Pandanus palm trees, solitary or in small clumps, endemic to the area, stand out on these plains like the last warriors of a defeated army. Straight trunks separate their thick leaves shaped like blades. A delicate plant – Salotsy – reputedly gave its name to the prairie which can only be visited accompanied by guides. There are five hiking trails. Only the “Grotte des Portuguais” trail, the longest one of the five major trails, requires several days camping. The easiest one is a mere walk of one to two hours over a rocky plateau ending at a pool of clear water at the bottom of a small cascade. This interesting walk allows the discovery of several of Isalo’s peculiarities. On the plateau, alongside the trail, are several mounds of “wishes”, as each mound corresponds to a wish called the “Tatao”. In the distance you can see several square tomb mounds, erected by the Sakalava, the predecessors of the Bara who occupied the area at the beginning of the 19th century. 

.....
The contrast between the two cultures is illustrated by a Bara tomb set high up on a rockface. Having been laid to rest in a temporary burying place the deceased is moved to a natural hollow in the rock, enlarged if necessary, and sealed with stones. The empty coffins are abandoned. Isalo is dotted with these mountain burial chambers some of them placed at impressive heights to discourage any potential grave robbers. Some distance further, in Ambositra or Miarinarivo is a small grove, here we find the most common tree of Isalo: “the Tapia”. Thanks to its thick bark this small dense tree is the only one to survive the annual bush fires set by the Bara to clear land. Another local plant is the “Pachypodium” erroneously called the "Dwarf Baobab". All of us took pictures near the "Dwarf Baobab". The name does however appropriately describe this small dry plant with its water holding, hollow sounding, pot bellied trunk. The guides also point out the Salotsy, a local plant with long thin leaves extending from a very fine stem which recieved its name from the mountain range – Isalo. The cascade of the nymphs: is a fairytale setting that is home to a large population of frogs. As we discovered the internal secrets of this wonderful landscape, our trail took us along deep ravines that were spread with giant boulders. As we exited the ravines we approached, through fields and rice paddies, the little village of Ranohira. The town is set along a cliff; the town's name means “the water of the lemurs”. Near Ranohira is the "Canyon of Apes" which is home to the makis catta and white sifaka - two species of lemur monkeys. The makis of Isalo can climb the rocky walls thanks to the palm of their hands which are shaped in the form of suction cups. Other lemurs prefer to show off along the more acrobatic settings of the cascade des Nymphes: Namazà. The nymphs are frogs. Their kingdom, at the bottom of the waterfall that runs down the canyon, is reminiscent of the dark recesses of a wet cave. Light shines through a hole above the cave, and the spray from the waterfall creates a rainbow around the entrance to the cave. During the day the sun plunges into the heart of this natural well and you can see the frogs far below in their cave. A true fairy tale setting. There is also a Welcome Centre built at the centre of Ranohira, allowing the village to benefit from the tourist trade. Often crowded, it sells entrance tickets and guides are available to take you on tours.

So if you really want to visit Isalo the best way for you to organise travel to Isalo is to get in touch with a specialised tour operator. This way, you will visit the sanctuary of nature without exposing yourself to unpleasant surprises. Besides, travelling this way, you will not be exposed to the permanent risk of finding no seats on domestic flights which are often full.

The following is a list of articles that Nia has written for the magazine:

Hira Gasy ~ Music In The Highlands Of Madagascar
Humpback Whales Around Sainte Marie Island ~ In Madagascar
A Look At Madagascar ~ The Great Island
In The South Of Madagascar ~ Among The Harsh Beauty Of Isalo
Antananarivo ~ The City Of A Thousand Warriors - Madagascar's Capital
An Island With Sapphire Fever ~ Madagascar's Hidden Wealth
The Tsingy Of Belo Sur Tsiribihina And The Royal Bath ~ In Madagascar
Nosy Be - The Little Great Island In The North Of Madagascar

To contact Nia Click Here
.
Maison de l’Isalo
Isalo Park
 
...

Rematch!
.
Send This WebPage To A Friend!
< Send a Letter to the Editor > < Subscribe> < Submit An Article >< Disclaimer>
.
...
| Add Url | Home | Contact | Advertising Send This Webpage To A Friend | Escape From America Magazine Index | Offshore Real Estate Quarterly | International Telephone Directory  | About Escape | Embassies Of The World  |  Report Dead Links On This Page| Maps Of The World | Articles On This Website | Disclaimer | Link 2 Us | Help | Jobs Overseas | International Real Estate | Find A CountryExpatriate Search Tools | Expat Pages | Offshore Merchant Accounts | Offshore Web Hosting | Offshore Investing | International Marketplace | Yacht Broker - Boats Barges & Yachts For Sale | Search Engines Of The World |
© Copyright 1996-2005 EscapeArtist Inc. All Rights Reserved