Discover
The Secret Of Isalo
Adventures In The South
Western Corner Of Madagascar ~ by Harinia
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of the most frequented National Parks in Madagascar is Isalo. From Antananarivo
the RN7 will lead you to Isalo National Park. Taking the road, you will
reach the province of Fianarantsoa (408 km from Tana) before arriving in
Isalo (206 km from Fianarantsoa.) Situated in the south western corner
of Madagascar, the lsalo range raises its rocky heads on the distant horizon.
Isalo National Park which is a spectacular site, completely silent and
full of mysteries, was created in 1962 and covers 81,540 hectares. As our
guides told us, during the rainy season that extends from November to March,
the late afternoon sky above Isalo darkens. Then over the Isalo mountain
range descends a soft and dark blanket of clouds. Far above the clouds
the evening sky turns a pure pastel blue. The grass turns a tender, luminescent
green. At this hour Isalo seems to break its promise of silence that rules
its days. A soft wind rustles the tall grasses and carrys the smell of
the earth. The rain does not fall for long, and on its retreat rainbows
span across the sky and mountains and the fire of the sun descends under
the clouds and lights up the ridges of the mountain peaks.
If a normal
evening brings to mind so many pictures, what about the days? We only had
three days to explore the beauty of Isalo. When we arrived there on 05
January 2005 it rained. Most of us (14 people) were very surprised to see
the beauty of Isalo; the deep canyons and narrow streams; Isalo's rock
formations have been carved by wind and rain for centuries. We were also
captivated by the mysterious and fascinating creatures that inhabit Isalo.
Once we arrived we tried to find the Parks Board (ANGAP) at Ranohira, the
town situated near the National Park of Isalo. |
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The Maison
de l’Isalo (House of Isalo in English), an extraordinary house built of
stones inside the Park by the Parks Board (ANGAP or Association Nationale
pour Gestion des Aires protégées), provides guidelines to
the understanding of the Park's environment. There is also a small exhibition
which helps the vistor to understand the geology, fauna and flora and the
people (Sakalava are the most important tribe in Madagascar, status within
Sakalava society is determined by how many zebu a person owns; before zebu,
status was determined by the number of slaves! The Bara are also an important
tribe; they live in the central part of the country and are nomadic herders.
They are warriors who steal zebu to prove their virility. Their dead are
buried at the bottom of deep caverns.) who live in Isalo. In fact there
are many hotels with bungalows like L’Etoile de l’Isalo at Ranohira or
Isalo Ranch about 5 km from Ranohira (15 bungalows) but if you are too
tired from your journey, go up to Isalo and stay at the Relais de la Reine
(tél 22 261 20 or 22 351 65), a 24 room hotel that is built of local
stone. In fact, Relais de la Reine constitutes a quite unusual model of
architecture. You can enjoy wonderful excursions trekking or horseback
riding in the Park.
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Trail
information at Isalo
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Nono,
one of our ANGAP's guides showed us the sites we needed to visit - they
were the following: Fenêtre de l’Isalo, Piscine naturelle: 6 km from
Ranohira, Cascade des nymphes, or Namazà: piscine bleue and piscine
noire. To reach these sites the road is rather difficult, plenty of rocks
to scramble over but the walk itself is lovely. Nono told us that scientists
call this rock information Le massif ruiniforme (ruin-shaped massif). As
we walk through the Park we see many different types of wildlife: crocodiles,
lemurs, even a horse. We also see the Queen of Isalo, a rock formation
that is shaped like the profile of a crowned female head.
In the Park,
grassy prairies extend everywhere, curving around peaks that look like
ruins, filling every space available. Pandanus palm trees, solitary or
in small clumps, endemic to the area, stand out on these plains like the
last warriors of a defeated army. Straight trunks separate their thick
leaves shaped like blades. A delicate plant – Salotsy – reputedly gave
its name to the prairie which can only be visited accompanied by guides.
There are five hiking trails. Only the “Grotte des Portuguais” trail, the
longest one of the five major trails, requires several days camping. The
easiest one is a mere walk of one to two hours over a rocky plateau ending
at a pool of clear water at the bottom of a small cascade. This interesting
walk allows the discovery of several of Isalo’s peculiarities. On the plateau,
alongside the trail, are several mounds of “wishes”, as each mound corresponds
to a wish called the “Tatao”. In the distance you can see several square
tomb mounds, erected by the Sakalava, the predecessors of the Bara who
occupied the area at the beginning of the 19th century. |
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The contrast
between the two cultures is illustrated by a Bara tomb set high up on a
rockface. Having been laid to rest in a temporary burying place the deceased
is moved to a natural hollow in the rock, enlarged if necessary, and sealed
with stones. The empty coffins are abandoned. Isalo is dotted with these
mountain burial chambers some of them placed at impressive heights to discourage
any potential grave robbers. Some distance further, in Ambositra or Miarinarivo
is a small grove, here we find the most common tree of Isalo: “the Tapia”.
Thanks to its thick bark this small dense tree is the only one to survive
the annual bush fires set by the Bara to clear land. Another local plant
is the “Pachypodium” erroneously called the "Dwarf Baobab". All of us took
pictures near the "Dwarf Baobab". The name does however appropriately describe
this small dry plant with its water holding, hollow sounding, pot bellied
trunk. The guides also point out the Salotsy, a local plant with long thin
leaves extending from a very fine stem which recieved its name from the
mountain range – Isalo. The cascade of the nymphs: is a fairytale setting
that is home to a large population of frogs. As we discovered the internal
secrets of this wonderful landscape, our trail took us along deep ravines
that were spread with giant boulders. As we exited the ravines we approached,
through fields and rice paddies, the little village of Ranohira. The town
is set along a cliff; the town's name means “the water of the lemurs”.
Near Ranohira is the "Canyon of Apes" which is home to the makis catta
and white sifaka - two species of lemur monkeys. The makis of Isalo can
climb the rocky walls thanks to the palm of their hands which are shaped
in the form of suction cups. Other lemurs prefer to show off along the
more acrobatic settings of the cascade des Nymphes: Namazà. The
nymphs are frogs. Their kingdom, at the bottom of the waterfall that runs
down the canyon, is reminiscent of the dark recesses of a wet cave. Light
shines through a hole above the cave, and the spray from the waterfall
creates a rainbow around the entrance to the cave. During the day the sun
plunges into the heart of this natural well and you can see the frogs far
below in their cave. A true fairy tale setting. There is also a Welcome
Centre built at the centre of Ranohira, allowing the village to benefit
from the tourist trade. Often crowded, it sells entrance tickets and guides
are available to take you on tours.
So if you really
want to visit Isalo the best way for you to organise travel to Isalo is
to get in touch with a specialised tour operator. This way, you will visit
the sanctuary of nature without exposing yourself to unpleasant surprises.
Besides, travelling this way, you will not be exposed to the permanent
risk of finding no seats on domestic flights which are often full.
The following
is a list of articles that Nia has written for the magazine:
Hira
Gasy ~ Music
In The Highlands Of Madagascar
Humpback
Whales Around Sainte Marie Island ~ In
Madagascar
A
Look At Madagascar ~ The
Great Island
In
The South Of Madagascar ~ Among
The Harsh Beauty Of Isalo
Antananarivo
~ The
City Of A Thousand Warriors - Madagascar's Capital
An
Island With Sapphire Fever ~ Madagascar's
Hidden Wealth
The
Tsingy Of Belo Sur Tsiribihina And The Royal Bath ~ In
Madagascar
Nosy
Be - The
Little Great Island In The North Of Madagascar
To contact
Nia Click Here
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