| Castle
Hopping In Korea |
| The Beauty
Of Korea |
| By Brandon Walcutt |
| May 2005
Standing atop
the fortified castle wall, I look down at the mist shrouded shapes of pine
trees crowding the mountain slopes. I can easily imagine troops of armored
soldiers marching their way up the steep trails towards the high stone
walls.
This is not
an image of Europe that we are describing, but one of South Korea. Korea
is more than just the home of kimchi, the DMZ and red-shirted soccer enthusiasts.
Korea has a rich, five thousand year history that is still easily accessible
to travelers. One of the favorite things many visitors enjoy experiencing
are the castles that dot the Korean countryside. |
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Although most
castles lie in ruins these days, there are many fine examples, several
of which can be found within a short distance of Seoul, the capital city
and primary entry point to the Korean peninsula.
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With a history
of over 900 invasions, it is small wonder that the Korean people turned
to building forts and castles to protect its people in times of trouble.
The first fortifications are said to have been built in approximately 2nd
century BC and were rude affairs of mud and timber. Later, castles gained
more sophistication and evolved as new building technology and weaponry
became available. Korean castles have a different style than their European
counterparts. |
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| Most castles
in Korea were built simply as high stone walls, without the multi-storied
towers as seen in European examples. Another distinctly Korean modification
are the circular-shaped entry passages to primary gates. Although Korea’s
castles don’t necessarily have the vertical impressiveness European structures
may enjoy, they make up for this in sheer size and for many, the natural
beauty of their mountain top locations.
For any interested
traveler heading to Seoul, there are 3 sites you should not miss. The first
site is called Namhansanseong or the Namhan Mountain Fortress and is located
just outside of Seoul. This site has been of major military importance
since early times. Originally built as an earthen fortress about 2,000
years ago, Namhan Fortress was rebuilt many times before the current fortress
was built in 1624. That latest rebuilding was prompted by the threat and
eventual invasion by the Manchu army. |
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| From this
fortress, King Injo and a few thousand soldiers and Buddhist warrior monks
held off an invading force of 130,000 men for 45 days during the Manchu
invasion of 1636. Part of the fortress was later burned by invading Japanese
forces in 1907. In addition, pockmarks from Korean War bullet holes can
also be found in the fortress walls. More information about Namhansanseoung
can be found at
http://www.namhansansung.or.kr/main_eng.htm.
Another
site well worth visiting is the Hwaseong Castle in Suwon. Suwon is
just south of Seoul and, like Namhansanseong, is accessible via the Seoul
Metropolitan Subway system. Hwaseong is considered to be one of the best
preserved castles in Korea and was declared a UNESCO World Cultural site
in 1998. Hwaseong was finished during the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910) in
1796. The fortress wall stretches for 5.74km and was built with both stone
and brick. The castle was built to accommodate not only traditional weapons,
i.e. arrows and spears, but also guns and cannon. Hwaseong has also seen
much chaos and war which culminated in much of the fortress being burnt
during the Japanese invasion in the early 1900s and partial destruction
during the Korean War. Most of the fortress has since been renovated. |
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on Hwaseong can be found at http://whc.unesco.org/pg.cfm?cid=31&id_site=817
The last
castle can be found within Seoul itself. In 1394, King Taejo of the
Joseon dynasty moved his kingdom’s capital to Seoul. In the same year,
he began a massive construction project involving two to three hundred
thousand workers who built a wall around the new capital. Over the years,
the walls changed and evolved. A series of striking gates were constructed
to allow entry to the city. Although most of the city walls were destroyed
during the Japanese Colonial Period, several of the gates still remain.
In the heart of Seoul’s downtown shopping district, the massive Dongdaemun
(or East) gate still remains. As can be seen in the other Korean castles,
Dongdaemun has the semicircle wall that was used to entrap enemies who
tried to force open the gate. Reaching above the gate is the imposing,
but colorful gate structure. |
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| More information
on Dongdaemun Gate can be found at http://english.seoul.go.kr/today/about/about_02top.htm.
Korea has
a lot more than just castles to offer visitors, but for many people,
castles embody much of Korea’s proud and turbulent history. Visit and let
your imagination take you back to the days of yore.
Brandon
Walcutt is a university professor, history buff and budding travel
writer based in Seoul, Korea. To contact Brandon Click
Here |
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Article
Index ~ Korea
Index ~ |