Spirituality And Old City Charm Is Synonymous With Varanasi
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Spirituality And Old City Charm Is Synonymous With Varanasi
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March 2005

Varanasi, India

Discovering Benares

A visit To Varanasi or Benares can be as overpowering to some, if not all. If you are really looking for Hindu divinity, culture and learning it can be found here. It is the one of the oldest living cities in northern India. Visiting Benares (Varanasi) is like looking at life from a distance. I have been visiting it since my childhood. 

Each visit kind of changes me. Varanasi is the heart and soul of the Hindu way of life.

What’s so mystical about Benares? It’s the people and their way of life. At dawn the sweet chime of bells ringing in the temples and the chant of the mantras awaken you. Hundreds of temples can be found in Benares.
 
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A city so steeped in traditions, religious ceremonies and yet at the same time it has been the home of great scholars especially literary scholars as well as scholars of the sciences and astrology.

My mother believed in all that was Benarsi or that belonged to Benares, not because it was the city of her birth but due to the deep seated belief in its traditions and way of life. For any devout Hindu the day will begin only after bathing in the Holy Ganges and offering prayers. Benares or Varanasi is well connected by air and trains.

There are good five star hotels, which offer Indian, continental and Chinese cuisine. Going to the banks of the Ganges just before dawn and immersing yourself in the entire spiritual atmosphere is an experience of a lifetime.

As with any other city in northern India, Varanasi succumbed to the onslaught and attacks of Muslim rulers time and time again. The most vicious was from Aurangzeb. But as they say a city that lives in the minds and hearts of its people can never die.

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Cities from which world religions have come to life are finite. All the famous Hindu temples, which were built over the previous centuries, were replaced by mosques, but the city and its traditions lived on.The famous Vishwanath temple dedicated to Lord Shiva (The Destroyer) was razed to the ground. Subsequently, the new Viswanath Temple was built by Ahilya Bai Holkar. It is just next to the mosque. Non- Hindus are not allowed inside the temple premises.

The second most important temple is Sankat Mochan Temple. It is dedicated to the monkey God Hanuman. No pilgrimage to Varanasi can be complete without visiting it. Next is a visit to BHU an important center for learning. Built in early 1900’s by Pandit Madan Mohan Malviya, it’s grandeur is second to none. It continues to enjoy a reputation as an important learning center, especially in the field of cultural studies. Sarnath is the famous Budha Stupa where Lord Gautam Budha gave his discourses to his disciples. It is a must see.

Feeling a little adventurous: well a ride in the trishaw or rickshaw is hilarious. A trip in those gullies, which are lined with shops selling trinkets.

The things worth buying are bangles made of lacquer. They are colorful and harmless. Bindis can be bought too. Seen Madonna sporting a bindi? If you feel up to it silk saris are very famous or just bolts of silk material can be bought at good shops. Dresses can be sewn back home.

A boat ride is a must over the River Ganges. The true spirit of Benares resides on the Ganges banks. Last but not the least a visit to the Durga Temples at Vindhyachal is recommended. It’s a three-hour trip by road. To really enjoy Benares and enter the spirit of its temple a person must visit for at least 3 to 4 days.

Things to take care of: always be careful where you eat and drink water. Generally visit all the places during daylight hours. Don’t let unknown people act as guides for you; stay at a reasonable and decent hotel, use one of the hotel's guides and hire car from the hotel.

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If you can stomach it then the really good food of Benares is waiting for you: namely urad dal kachauri with chutney, thandai and puri bhaji. When visiting India next time please include Benares or Varanasi in your itinerary. Stay at the Taj Ganges(belonging to the Taj group of hotels)

The following are the previous articles article Manju wrote for the magazine:

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