| After bumping
along the primitive roads and being fascinated at how a sand island could
house so much vegetation, Dave stops the truck and leads us on a path through
the rainforest. He doesn’t stop talking for a second. Our destination is
Lake Basin – just one of about 200 freshwater lakes on the island.
After climbing
up a fairly well trodden path, the rainforest suddenly parts and we
stumble into the bright sunlight. Ahead of us lies a small lake, completely
surrounded by Fraser’s endless white sand and boasting colors owned by
the Caribbean. It’s nice to swim in fresh water and emerge refreshed instead
of salt-encrusted.
We take a different
route back to the truck and wander through an isolated part of the rainforest.
Thick trees block the sun and cicadas and birds sing for us. Eventually
we come upon Wanggoolba Creek, also known as Silent Creek. The shallow
clear water runs so silently over the sandy bottom that it’s hard to believe
there is any water running over the sand. A freshwater eel hides under
a log and a huge goanna lizard perches on a tree just above us. I marvel
at the sand peeking through the path. Farther along, huge Satinay Trees
tower over us. There is something so calming about the rainforest.
After a
delicious picnic lunch, we arrive at Lake McKenzie. One of the highlights
of the island, this is definitely the most beautiful lake I have ever seen.
If I didn’t know any better, I’d think I was somewhere on a Caribbean island.
The white sand and gently deepening blues of the water bring to mind hammocks
and Pina Coladas. Lake McKenzie, like many of Fraser’s other lakes, is
a perched lake formed by an accumulation of water on top of an impermeable
layer of decaying plant life.
That night
we stay in the Wilderness Lodges at Kingfisher Bay. We are treated to a
never-ending buffet dinner and tumble into bed, exhausted. The next morning
Dave starts the day off with an exciting ride down 75 Mile Beach. The tide
is high and there isn’t much room to maneuver the truck. We pass the colored
sands - red, orange and brown streaking the hills. We stop at the Sand
Dunes and race to the top by foot. The view from the top is rewarding –
all around us is sand, more sand and rainforest and more rainforest. It’s
a landscape I’ve never seen before.
When we’re
sufficiently sand covered, we drive farther down the beach to the Maheno
Shipwreck. The passenger liner, on its way to Japan in 1935, was blown
ashore by a cyclone. It’s like visiting a set for a ghost movie – the rusted
skeleton of the ship stands eerily against the blue sky.
We make our
way to Indian Head, considered the best viewpoint on the island. We clamber
up the rocky cliffs and eat lunch while looking over the huge rock outcroppings
at endless pods of dolphins swimming by. The Champagne Pools are the next
stop. Here, natural rock formations trap the ocean water in bubbling pools.
On the way back to the Lodge we pass a lone Dingo standing on the beach.
Our passing doesn’t faze him and he stares mysteriously out to sea.
First on the
agenda for our last day is Lake Wabby. This lake is set at the bottom of
a sand dune and some of the more adventurous of our group roll down and
land with a splash. Catfish live here and if you stand still enough they’ll
come within a meter of you.
Later in the
day we’re presented with the opportunity to see the island from a completely
different perspective – from the air. For $60, you can fly over the island
in a tiny 8 seater. The plane is so small that I have to sit up front with
the pilot, and the experience of flying in such a tiny plane is reason
enough to spend the extra cash. And the views of the island are unparalleled
from here – the thick rainforest covering the island, the expanses of sand
and the occasional lake adding a splash of color to the landscape. It was
the perfect end to the trip. The three day Cool Dingo tour is geared towards
adventure seeking 18-35 year olds, but the resort offers several tours
designed for all ages and abilities. You can also stay in the luxurious
resort and do one day or half-day trips taking in the island’s highlights
or just wander the surrounding area by foot. Kingfisher Bay Resort offers
early morning bird walks, creepy crawly night walks and a variety of other
tours highlighting the island’s wildlife and scenery.
Lady Elliot
Island
For many travelers,
there is one place on each trip that stands out from the rest – the one
place that you can’t stop talking about. For me, this place on the East
Coast of Australia is Lady Elliot Island. Accessible only by plane, Lady
Elliot is definitely worth the extra effort and cost.
The plane,
which transports us to the 40-hectare coral island, is not much bigger
than the one that gave us a bird’s eye view of Fraser. On the tarmac, the
pilot gives us the safety briefing before helping us on board. Thirty minutes
later, the island comes into view. Surrounded by the Great Barrier Reef,
the island is a green dot encircled by white sand. Close to the island,
the water is light green and turquoise, and the reef is visible through
the clear water. Where the reef ends and deep water begins, white caps
signal the presence of big waves.
Lady Elliot
Island is the southernmost point of the Great Barrier Reef. For us, going
down the East Coast, it is the last time we’ll visit the reef, and somehow
we have managed to save the best for last. It is definitely a more expensive
destination, but you’re not paying for luxury accommodation. The rooms
range from four bed cabins, dorm style, to ensuite reef units. There are
no TV’s or phones and the rooms are basic, but it doesn’t matter. The less
time you spend in your room here – the better.
What you’re
paying for here is the opportunity to wake up, walk a few meters and
be snorkeling over the Great Barrier Reef in a lagoon filled with marine
life. We can see the reef from our room, and even spot a turtle through
our window. Free snorkeling gear is offered from the dive shop and we barely
step on the island before we’re in the water.
We see an unbelievable
amount of marine life in the shallow lagoon. Triggerfish, with their almost
diamond shaped blue and brown bodies, swim away from us at surprising speeds.
Coral practically covers the ocean floor, barely leaving room for the numerous
sea cucumbers to lie in the sand. Soon, we come upon a green turtle nestled
underneath an outcropping of coral. When he sees us, he merely looks away
and goes about his business as if we’re not there. Most turtles I have
seen take off immediately upon sighting humans.
We float above
him, close enough to see every scratch on his thick shell. After a few
minutes he surfaces, coming almost face to face with me and swims lazily
away. Soon, we see a yellow and green speckled eel hiding in a coral tunnel,
but he retreats when we try to get closer for a photo. But there are plenty
of other fishes to occupy our snap happy fingers.
Snorkeling
is best done at high tide, and at low tide you can go reef walking. Old
shoes are provided to protect your feet from poisonous cone shells and
pointy sea urchins. Reef walking involves stepping only on the sand between
the coral; coral is a living organism and just touching it can kill it.
A long cone with plastic at the end, called a spyscope, helps you see the
coral and fish clearly.
The island
also boasts an education center full of information about nesting sea turtles,
manta rays (the island’s symbol), and all of the other marine life that
can be seen from the island. It even includes a selection of videos, with
both educational and blockbuster films.
The next
morning we walk around the island. Only 2.5 kilometers in circumference,
it takes us under two hours to walk the entire coast. We stop and marvel
at the bird life, the iridescent colors of the water and the thick vegetation
covering the island. The ground, including the beach, consists mostly of
coral, which can be hard on your feet, so bring good walking shoes. You’ll
certainly find perfectly shaped shells and coral, but don’t even think
of pocketing them. The whole island is a marine park and you’ll be fined
$4000 if you take anything with you.
Lady Elliot
is considered
to be one of the best diving spots in Australia, especially well-renowned
for seeing huge manta rays. Unfortunately, the weather turned and the sea
was too rough to get to the diving spots where manta rays usually hang
out, so we didn’t see one. But what we saw on our three dives made up for
that – and now we have a perfect reason to come back.
Despite the
rough weather and rain on the surface, the diving is wonderful. On every
dive we see some sort of marine life that we’ve never seen before. I spot
an octopus hiding behind a rock, the Divemaster points out a black and
white lionfish, and a long skinny painted flutemouth, almost fluorescent
in color, floats motionlessly above a mound of coral.
A playful green
turtle, obviously accustomed to humans, seems delighted to see us. The
Divemaster scratches its flippers and shell, and when I get close enough,
I tentatively do the same. As I stroke my fingers along his shell, he turns
and rubs up against me, almost like a cat, begging for more. I think this
was the highlight of my diving career, and undeniably the most interactive
I’d ever been with a wild marine reptile.
Just before
we surface for the last time, I spot a huge bull ray. Easily the size of
a double bed, this is the largest creature I have ever been underwater
with. My heart pounds as it swims near us, then effortlessly turns and
flaps its gigantic wings and speeds away. I can’t imagine what seeing a
manta ray would be like; they’re even larger.
Day trips to
the island are available, but believe me, one day isn’t enough. You pay
for the airfare anyway on a day trip, so why not splurge on the accommodation
and really get to know the island. Additionally, divers must have 24 hours
in between flying and diving, so staying overnight is the only way you
can dive here. That night, sadly back on the mainland, I can’t sleep. As
I toss and turn, my partner asks me what the trouble is. “I miss the
fish,” I reply, slightly embarrassed. But he just sighs. “Yeah,
me too.”
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