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Lady Musgrave was the site of my first dives on the Great Barrier Reef, and possibly some of the best diving I have ever experienced. The clarity of the water and the superior visibility, which stretched to well over 30 meters, made for some of the best conditions I have ever experienced underwater. Immediately upon descent, we’re confronted by the sheer numbers of glittering tropical fish. Huge batfish glide past us, a green turtle dawdles above us and the sun’s rays glint through the crystal water. Below us, two Moorish Idols, a long white tassels flowing from their heads, munch contentedly on their lunch. The coral here is so thick that we have to swim up and around it on several occasions, and at each turn we come face to face with even more brilliantly colored fish. After a small feast of oranges and a tank change, we’re out on a different part of the reef, descending down into a whole other world for the second time. Immediately, we encounter an electric ray, its flat body waving in the current. Clownfish dart in and out of their host anemone’s tentacles. A huge bombie, a coral formation resembling a Smurf house, holds our attention while hundreds of fish float around it and us. I see another diver pointing towards me and I turn my head slowly, just in time to see a small green turtle swim past me. I could have reached out and touched it. And if that didn’t make for a fantastic dive, as we surface, a pod of dolphins frolic in the small waves, only meters from where we float. You could probably dive here every day for a year and see something different every time. Fraser Island The town of Hervey Bay is overrun with hotels, hostels, souvenir shops and travel agents. The only real reason to stop here is to get out to Fraser Island. The largest sand island in the world, Fraser has a surface area of 120 km by 15 km. That’s a lot of sand. And don’t expect to go there without bringing some of it back with you – in your shoes, your backpack, and possibly even your ears. Definitely a site for the more adventurous, Fraser is best explored by 4WD. A number of options exist for discovering the World Heritage listed island – you can join a tour group or do it yourself. If you can get a group together, you can hire your own 4WD vehicle and camping gear. I wouldn’t recommend this – several people we talked to had had terrible incidents with inexperienced or overzealous drivers and arguments over itinerary. But I think the biggest disadvantage to doing it yourself would be missing out on a tour guide’s expertise. We did Kingfisher Bay Resort’s Cool Dingo tour and I probably learned more from our tour guide, Dave, than I have ever learned on a tour before. He chatted with us nonstop, delivering interesting information not only about Fraser Island, but about Australia in general. The Cool Dingo tour includes ferry transportation to the island on the morning of the first day. Immediately upon arrival, we’re piled into big overland trucks with seating for around 40 people. After bumping along the primitive roads and being fascinated at how a sand island could house so much vegetation, Dave stops the truck and leads us on a path through the rainforest. He doesn’t stop talking for a second. Our destination is Lake Basin – just one of about 200 freshwater lakes on the island. After climbing
up a fairly well trodden path, the rainforest suddenly parts and we stumble
into the bright sunlight. Ahead of us lies a small lake, completely surrounded
by Fraser’s endless white sand and boasting colors owned by the Caribbean.
It’s nice to swim in fresh water and emerge refreshed instead of salt-encrusted.
That night we stay in the Wilderness Lodges at Kingfisher Bay. We are treated to a never-ending buffet dinner and tumble into bed, exhausted. The next morning Dave starts the day off with an exciting ride down 75 Mile Beach. The tide is high and there isn’t much room to maneuver the truck. We pass the colored sands - red, orange and brown streaking the hills. We stop at the Sand Dunes and race to the top by foot. The view from the top is rewarding – all around us is sand, more sand and rainforest and more rainforest. It’s a landscape I’ve never seen before. When we’re sufficiently sand covered, we drive farther down the beach to the Maheno Shipwreck. The passenger liner, on its way to Japan in 1935, was blown ashore by a cyclone. It’s like visiting a set for a ghost movie – the rusted skeleton of the ship stands eerily against the blue sky. We make our way to Indian Head, considered the best viewpoint on the island. We clamber up the rocky cliffs and eat lunch while looking over the huge rock outcroppings at endless pods of dolphins swimming by. The Champagne Pools are the next stop. Here, natural rock formations trap the ocean water in bubbling pools. On the way back to the Lodge we pass a lone Dingo standing on the beach. Our passing doesn’t faze him and he stares mysteriously out to sea. First on the agenda for our last day is Lake Wabby. This lake is set at the bottom of a sand dune and some of the more adventurous of our group roll down and land with a splash. Catfish live here and if you stand still enough they’ll come within a meter of you. Later in the
day we’re presented with the opportunity to see the island from a completely
different perspective – from the air. For $60, you can fly over the island
in a tiny 8 seater. The plane is so small that I have to sit up front with
the pilot, and the experience of flying in such a tiny plane is reason
enough to spend the extra cash. And the views of the island are unparalleled
from here – the thick rainforest covering the island, the expanses of sand
and the occasional lake adding a splash of color to the landscape. It was
the perfect end to the trip. The three day Cool Dingo tour is geared towards
adventure seeking 18-35 year olds, but the resort offers several tours
designed for all ages and abilities. You can also stay in the luxurious
resort and do one day or half-day trips taking in the island’s highlights
or just wander the surrounding area by foot. Kingfisher Bay Resort offers
early morning bird walks, creepy crawly night walks and a variety of other
tours highlighting the island’s wildlife and scenery.
Lady Elliot Island is the southernmost point of the Great Barrier Reef. For us, going down the East Coast, it is the last time we’ll visit the reef, and somehow we have managed to save the best for last. It is definitely a more expensive destination, but you’re not paying for luxury accommodation. The rooms range from four bed cabins, dorm style, to ensuite reef units. There are no TV’s or phones and the rooms are basic, but it doesn’t matter. The less time you spend in your room here – the better. What you’re paying for here is the opportunity to wake up, walk a few meters and be snorkeling over the Great Barrier Reef in a lagoon filled with marine life. We can see the reef from our room, and even spot a turtle through our window. Free snorkeling gear is offered from the dive shop and we barely step on the island before we’re in the water. We see an unbelievable amount of marine life in the shallow lagoon. Triggerfish, with their almost diamond shaped blue and brown bodies, swim away from us at surprising speeds. Coral practically covers the ocean floor, barely leaving room for the numerous sea cucumbers to lie in the sand. Soon, we come upon a green turtle nestled underneath an outcropping of coral. When he sees us, he merely looks away and goes about his business as if we’re not there. Most turtles I have seen take off immediately upon sighting humans. We float above him, close enough to see every scratch on his thick shell. After a few minutes he surfaces, coming almost face to face with me and swims lazily away. Soon, we see a yellow and green speckled eel hiding in a coral tunnel, but he retreats when we try to get closer for a photo. But there are plenty of other fishes to occupy our snap happy fingers. Snorkeling is best done at high tide, and at low tide you can go reef walking. Old shoes are provided to protect your feet from poisonous cone shells and pointy sea urchins. Reef walking involves stepping only on the sand between the coral; coral is a living organism and just touching it can kill it. A long cone with plastic at the end, called a spyscope, helps you see the coral and fish clearly. The island
also boasts an education center full of information about nesting sea turtles,
manta rays (the island’s symbol), and all of the other marine life that
can be seen from the island. It even includes a selection of videos, with
both educational and blockbuster films.
A playful green turtle, obviously accustomed to humans, seems delighted to see us. The Divemaster scratches its flippers and shell, and when I get close enough, I tentatively do the same. As I stroke my fingers along his shell, he turns and rubs up against me, almost like a cat, begging for more. I think this was the highlight of my diving career, and undeniably the most interactive I’d ever been with a wild marine reptile. Just before we surface for the last time, I spot a huge bull ray. Easily the size of a double bed, this is the largest creature I have ever been underwater with. My heart pounds as it swims near us, then effortlessly turns and flaps its gigantic wings and speeds away. I can’t imagine what seeing a manta ray would be like; they’re even larger. Day trips to the island are available, but believe me, one day isn’t enough. You pay for the airfare anyway on a day trip, so why not splurge on the accommodation and really get to know the island. Additionally, divers must have 24 hours in between flying and diving, so staying overnight is the only way you can dive here. That night, sadly back on the mainland, I can’t sleep. As I toss and turn, my partner asks me what the trouble is. “I miss the fish,” I reply, slightly embarrassed. But he just sighs. “Yeah, me too.” The following is a list of articles that Dawnelle has written for the magazine:
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