Travels In Turkey - A Visual Feast
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Travels In Turkey
A Visual Feast
“Why would you want to go there?”

It was the question I heard for weeks leading up to my trip… I vowed next time to keep my mouth shut.

“It’s supposed to be dangerous there…”

Oh? And you know this because . . . ?

I always find it interesting how people form opinions on matters they have no experience with.

Having traveled to some of the more off-beat places in the world (Nicaragua, Panama, Peru, Saudi Arabia, etc.), I’m constantly subjected to ‘expert’ analysis from the world’s most opinionated armchair travelers. Conventional wisdom on Turkey, it seemed, was no different.

I was on a mission for my company: to seek sound, safe international investment opportunities in an overlooked country. Turkey is beyond overlooked. It is criminally neglected. The comparably immense population is young, motivated, and entrepreneurial. The government is pro-business and keen to attract foreign investment.

Sound familiar? While the rest of the world is happily seduced by tales of 21st Century Chinese dominance, Turkey quietly grows in the shadows, preparing to one day emerge as a major economic influence.

It took years for the rest of the world to recognize the potential of China as a global powerhouse. Now everyone from CNBC analysts to the local shoeshine boys talk of the wondrous prospects in Shanghai.

 Rule of thumb: Once an opportunity goes mainstream it ceases to be an opportunity. Flying in to Attaturk International Airport in Istanbul, I hadn’t yet formed an opinion (I rarely read travel books so as not to bias myself); I remembered the first time I flew to Argentina last year - before landing, the flight attendants are mandated by Argentine law to spray down the cabin (and passengers) with a pesticide. Fortunately, Turkey has no such regulations! My first impression of Turkey was of the airport; modern architecture, professional immigration officials, and excellent shopping. Having no plan but the seat of my pants, I hopped on a bus and headed downtown to a trendy area called Taksim. 

Istanbul seemed to have more Roman ruins that Rome itself! The infrastructure weaved efficiently around aqueducts and Moorish forts, in the middle of which were first class hotels and fine dining overlooking the Bosphorous River.

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For several days I toured Istanbul, visiting my favorite attraction in any city - the banks! With relative ease, I opened up a simple Turkish Lira savings account in Istanbul: Interest rate? 22%.

Yes, 22%. Istanbul is a city in the midst of a rebirth; the younger population is beginning to take hold and recreate the city into a cosmopolitan center of art and commerce. I made fast friends with some locals who took me to some of the finest restaurants and adult entertainment known only to the locals. Istanbul was very alive at night; coffee shops, dance clubs, restaurants, performance theaters, and tobacco cafes were all bustling. Touring the city with my new friends, I got a great look at cost of living in the city. With the legions of cabbies around the city (a ride across town won’t cost more than a few dollars at most), it isn’t necessary to have an automobile in the city, and parking is a tremendous hassle (think Boston). Without a car, a very comfortable life can be had for just $1500 / month - furnished apartment, utilities, dining out regularly, etc.

Cost of travel was low, especially in restaurants. Wonderful meals could be had for just a few dollars.

Like most bargain countries, western-style hotels fetch western prices. You won’t find any bargains at the Intercontinental, but a comfortable oceanfront hotel outside of Istanbul with breakfast cost a mere $20. Real estate for purchase in central Istanbul is more expensive, closer to the prices in Prague (which is still a bargain compared to Frankfurt or Chicago).

Fast Forward

I was driving in one of the most bustling and cosmopolitan cities in the world, sprawled across a searing river and a hilly countryside replete with ancient ruins. Throttling down a modern highway, I passed the city limits. Ten kilometers later, I realized that someone turned the clock back 500 years.  Driving further still I noticed the ethnic flavor began to change. Then a sign - “Welcome to Asia”. In my rearview mirror on the opposite side of the highway - “Welcome to Europe.”

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The town of Sile, nestled on the southern coast of the Black Sea, is only 1 hour’s drive from Istanbul. It is a smaller town, typically known only to northern Turks instead of tourists. If you are looking for western college hedonism Ibiza-style, you need to go to Bodrum, a very popular tourist resort.

For a calmer, quieter, and more locally flavored experience devoid of teenage spring-breakers, Sile is an excellent choice, both for tourist travel and the purchase of a second home.

Spending several afternoons driving the Black Sea coast with local realtors, my investigations confirmed my initial suspicions: Turkish real estate is a tremendous bargain, especially oceanfront. 4 bedroom, 2 bath, 2,400 square feet, oceanfront homes were going for $100,000. Smaller town homes fetched a mere $75,000. I haven’t seen these prices since Nicaragua. In Spain or Italy, $75,000 would hardly fetch me a down payment!

Overall the lifestyle is quite pleasant. Turkey would be a wonderful place to live. English is widely spoken, the people are well-humored, and the women quite attractive. Turkish men love western women, especially blondes.  These people believe in kindness and hospitality, and they love to laugh and have a good time. I am particularly fond of the cuisine, and all the fantastic bargains on hand-made furniture, crafts, and lest we forget, carpets!  While prices are not as low as, say, Panama or India, the cost of living is still a bargain. In Sile, you can live very well off of just $1,000 monthly.

The economy is improving, the infrastructure is modernizing, and the Turks are eager to join the rest of Europe in reaching a place at the global economic table. The Turkish rate of inflation continues to fall, as it stands now under 9.5%, less than half of its level two years prior. The currency is growing stronger, and unemployment is falling. Yet many westerners’ perception of the country is that it is a backward and dangerous place.  Despite its proximity to 2/3 of the axis of evil, the government maintains a strong hold on security. Though most of the nation is Muslim, Turkey is a secular nation, and has been staunchly so for decades. Make no mistake - mosques are everywhere. Prayer calls fill the evening with choral chants, and the Turks respect their religious beliefs. But these are a very peaceful people.

In undiscovered Turkey, opportunity abounds. Simple savings accounts beat far riskier investments in the western world.  Real estate is destined to skyrocket (see the WSJ Lifestyle section from 4 February 2004). Business, trade, and tourist opportunities are everywhere. As the country gets its economic house in order over the next decade in preparation for expected entry into the European Union, all major macroeconomic indicators will improve significantly. Turkey’s new currency, the Yenni Lira (TRY) is already appreciating against the dollar. In the six weeks since I have left, the Lira has already gained 5% on the Dollar. Today, most westerners will tell you that investing in Turkey is foolish. Their opinion is based on myth and collective ignorance, though Americans in general have a difficult time opening their minds to international opportunities. But as word gets out and tourism increases, comparably wealthy Europeans, especially the Brits, Germans, BENELUX, and Swiss, will seek vacation homes along the lustrous coastlines, pushing up the prices of real estate.  As always, in the middle of the boom, people will wonder “why didn’t I get in at the beginning?”

A paradoxical land of splendor and squalor, modern age and middle age, Turkey easily stands as one of the most visually stunning and bargain priced countries in the world.

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