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In 2002, Jeita Grotto was awarded the Sustainable Development in Tourism Prize by a panel of International Scientific Experts in recognition of the degree of excellence of its care in the preservation of the environment combined with the economic feasibility of the project and impact on local economic development. The Upper Gallery may be reached by way of a cable car or on a small local “train.” The entrance to the lower grotto is just beside the restaurant and a shopping area. The shops offer a tasteful selection of local crafts and souvenirs. Jeita Grotto is Lebanon’s number one tourist site and recognized internationally for it superb caves. This is not to be missed. The Crusader Fort At Jbail Proceed along the coastal highway north of Beirut to the smaller town of Jbail. The town itself is not much, but where you are heading is to the old quarter of the town, formerly known as Byblos. Here you will find narrow mediaeval streets crammed with quaint shops and small restaurants. Your eventual destination is the ancient crusader fort which dominates the quarter. The site goes back to prehistoric times and signs of many civilizations are evident there; most obvious, however, are the magnificent Roman ruins which were later plundered in the search for stones to make a Crusader castle. Ramparts, cellars, Roman pillars, acres of ruins, all allow us to imagine the lovely old city of Byblos, one of the world’s oldest continually inhabited towns, dating back at least 7000 years. The 12th century crusader castle which dominates the hill, affords some wonderful views of modern Jbail. From the castle ramparts you can ponder the ruins of no fewer than seventeen civilizations. The castle must have been deliberately situated to overlook the sea and delight its occupants with a stiff fresh sea breeze from the west. Nowadays the busiest section is the central narrow shopping street with many little shops selling souvenirs, jewelry, clothing, snacks, and handicrafts and so on. Needing a rest after our visit, we left the castle district for a short walk down toward the water had lunch at Le Vieux Port, a delicious selection of hummus, kebbe, sambousek and, my favorite, roulade de fromage. Wonderful! The Cedars Of Lebanon This is a dramatic climb into Lebanon’s high mountains toward the snow-capped peaks with their ski hills. At the very summit the roads are closed in the winter months. As you make the climb, below you Beirut spreads, masses of white buildings, parks, and trees, especially around the university campus, but here the vegetation is more abundant yet and it seems even greener. In the distance are higher, snow-capped mountains. The road winds along steep ravines and becomes narrow. The valleys are lush and green, but so steeply-inclined that they are uncultivable. The road becomes even narrower, twisted and tortured until you enter the clouds and a thick fog surrounds you. It’s pretty exciting. You pass through several mountain villages, navigating narrow streets meant for horse and wagon not modern vehicles. The houses are three or more stories high and made of grey limestone. Small shops display a variety of fruits and vegetables outside. Before reaching the Cedars you will come at 1400 meters to Bcharree, home of Khalil Gibran. There you must visit the Museum and Art gallery featuring the works of this strange, visionary, surreal artist. The famed Cedars are a short drive
further at about 2000 meters. About three hundred and fifty of these magnificent
trees mentioned in the Bible as one of the treasures of the region are
left from the forest of hundreds of thousands which must have once carpeted
the hillsides. These cedars are often mentioned in the Bible and other
texts for their magnificence and are associated with the development of
the port at Byblos. Over the centuries, Assyrians, Babylonians, Persians,
Egyptians, Romans and many others made the pilgrimage to Mount Lebanon
for its famous aromatic wood. Nebuchadnezzar, himself boasted in cuneiform
writing, “I bought for building, mighty cedars, which I cut down with my
pure hands on Mount Lebanon.” The cedars of Lebanon were highly prized
for their size, long straight grain, reddish color, and fragrant aroma.
For a small entrance fee, you can stroll among the few remaining of these
magnificent giants. This is a unique encounter with natural history you
can have no where else in the world. When you leave the protected forest
area, you can stroll among the many roadside stands selling carvings made
of the prunings of the famous cedars.
At about eighty five kilometers from Beirut, modern Baalbeck is the administrative and economic center of the northern Beqaa Valley. It has enjoyed this role for millennia. The Roman ruins at Baalbeck reveal what was once one of the wonders of the ancient world going back to at least the third millennium B.C. Interesting, at one time, the Greeks identified Baalbeck with the sun god and the town was known as Heliopolis, the City of the Sun. Your first view of Baalbeck will undoubtedly be the six Corinthian columns of the Great Temple thrusting twenty-two meters into the skyline. They are stunning and, by themselves, give some idea of how huge the original structure must have been. In the lower court, look for the Lion’s Head decoration still impressive in spite of years of erosion and weathering. You must also enter the Temple of Bacchus, God of Wine and revels. It is a least the size of The Parthenon, which it somewhat resembles, in Athens and may be in better repair. A leisurely stroll among these massive ruins, is a peaceful, welcome and very impressive experience. After you leave the site, walk straight down the street in front of the entrance about two blocks to the friendly “Gourmet Restaurant” and enjoy one of their excellent sandwiches on fresh French bread. On your way back to Beirut, stop off at Ksara Winery where, if you wish, you can taste some of their excellent wine and then tour their massive cellars. From the winery, it’s about an hour back to Beirut. I first visited Lebanon thirty years ago, and only recently, and joyfully, became re-acquainted with this lovely country. Put on your list of places to go, and when you do, remember that when you feel that you have exhausted the delights of Beirut, there is still a great deal more to do in this wonderful country. The following are the previous articles David wrote for the magazine:
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Sipadan ~ 
