| Lebanon
Beyond Beirut |
| Four Must-Do
Day Trips |
| February
2005
Beirut is wonderful,
a cosmopolitan Mediterranean city famed for its friendly people, exclusive
shops and fine restaurants. The Solidaire quarter of Beirut especially
is worth the trip to Lebanon, but there is more, so much more to see in
Lebanon, and some of it is outside the capitol and easily done as a day
trip. Here’s a sampling.
Jeita Grottos
These world-famous
caves are immense and absolutely spectacular. Located about 18 kilometers
along the highway north of Beirut in the valley of Nhr el Kalb, Jetta Grotto
is formed of two galleries, the lower gallery being opened only in 1958. |
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One visits
it by boat, since it is home to an underground lake, a trip of about 500
meters. It is silent, and lovely with only the slow drip of water punctuating
the silence. In the immense Upper Gallery, the combination of huge of stalagmites
and stalactites is magical.
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For millions
of years, water issuing from the roof and flowing down its flanks of the
cavern has slowly sculpted these caves into a fantasy palace of magical
columns and pillars, a rocky fastnesses of fantastic, caves and galleries,
imbued with colors and forms in infinite variety and subtlety. |
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| Jeita Grotto
is unquestionably one of the most impressive natural sites in the world.
Happily it has been very carefully developed to preserve its unique beauty.
In 2002, Jeita
Grotto was awarded the Sustainable Development in Tourism Prize by
a panel of International Scientific Experts in recognition of the degree
of excellence of its care in the preservation of the environment
combined with the economic feasibility of the project and impact
on local economic development.The Upper Gallery may be reached by way of
a cable car or on a small local “train.”
The entrance
to the lower grotto is just beside the restaurant and a shopping area.
The shops offer a tasteful selection of local crafts and souvenirs. Jeita
Grotto is Lebanon’s number one tourist site and recognized internationally
for it superb caves. This is not to be missed. |
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Offshore
Resources Gallery
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| The Crusader
Fort At Jbail
Proceed along
the coastal highway north of Beirut to the smaller town of Jbail. The town
itself is not much, but where you are heading is to the old quarter
of the town, formerly known as Byblos. Here you will find narrow mediaeval
streets crammed with quaint shops and small restaurants. Your eventual
destination is the ancient crusader fort which dominates the quarter. The
site goes back to prehistoric times and signs of many civilizations are
evident there; most obvious, however, are the magnificent Roman ruins which
were later plundered in the search for stones to make a Crusader castle.
Ramparts, cellars, Roman pillars, acres of ruins, all allow us to imagine
the lovely old city of Byblos, one of the world’s oldest continually inhabited
towns, dating back at least 7000 years. The 12th century crusader castle
which dominates the hill, affords some wonderful views of modern Jbail.
From the castle ramparts you can ponder the ruins of no fewer than seventeen
civilizations. The castle must have been deliberately situated to
overlook the sea and delight its occupants with a stiff fresh sea breeze
from the west. Nowadays the busiest section is the central narrow
shopping street with many little shops selling souvenirs, jewelry, clothing,
snacks, and handicrafts and so on. |
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| Needing a
rest after our visit, we left the castle district for a short walk down
toward the water had lunch at Le Vieux Port, a delicious selection
of hummus, kebbe, sambousek and, my favorite, roulade de fromage. Wonderful!
The Cedars
Of Lebanon
This is a dramatic
climb into Lebanon’s high mountains toward the snow-capped peaks with their
ski hills. At the very summit the roads are closed in the winter months.
As you make
the climb, below you Beirut spreads, masses of white buildings, parks,
and trees, especially around the university campus, but here the vegetation
is more abundant yet and it seems even greener. In the distance are higher,
snow-capped mountains. The road winds along steep ravines and becomes narrow.
The valleys are lush and green, but so steeply-inclined that they are uncultivable. |
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Offshore
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| The road becomes
even narrower, twisted and tortured until you enter the clouds and a thick
fog surrounds you. It’s pretty exciting. You pass through several mountain
villages, navigating narrow streets meant for horse and wagon not modern
vehicles. The houses are three or more stories high and made of grey
limestone. Small shops display a variety of fruits and vegetables
outside. Before reaching the Cedars you will come at 1400 meters to Bcharree,
home of Khalil Gibran. There you must visit the Museum and Art gallery
featuring the works of this strange, visionary, surreal artist.
The famed Cedars
are a short drive further at about 2000 meters. About three hundred and
fifty of these magnificent trees mentioned in the Bible as one of the treasures
of the region are left from the forest of hundreds of thousands which must
have once carpeted the hillsides. These cedars are often mentioned in the
Bible and other texts for their magnificence and are associated with the
development of the port at Byblos. Over the centuries, Assyrians, Babylonians,
Persians, Egyptians, Romans and many others made the pilgrimage to Mount
Lebanon for its famous aromatic wood. Nebuchadnezzar, himself boasted in
cuneiform writing, “I bought for building, mighty cedars, which I cut down
with my pure hands on Mount Lebanon.” The cedars of Lebanon were highly
prized for their size, long straight grain, reddish color, and fragrant
aroma. For a small entrance fee, you can stroll among the few remaining
of these magnificent giants. This is a unique encounter with natural history
you can have no where else in the world. When you leave the protected forest
area, you can stroll among the many roadside stands selling carvings made
of the prunings of the famous cedars.
Baalbeck
At about eighty
five kilometers from Beirut, modern Baalbeck is the administrative and
economic center of the northern Beqaa Valley. It has enjoyed this role
for millennia. The Roman ruins at Baalbeck reveal what was once one of
the wonders of the ancient world going back to at least the third millennium
B.C. Interesting, at one time, the Greeks identified Baalbeck with the
sun god and the town was known as Heliopolis, the City of the Sun. Your
first view of Baalbeck will undoubtedly be the six Corinthian columns of
the Great Temple thrusting twenty-two meters into the skyline. They are
stunning and, by themselves, give some idea of how huge the original structure
must have been. In the lower court, look for the Lion’s Head decoration
still impressive in spite of years of erosion and weathering. You must
also enter the Temple of Bacchus, God of Wine and revels. It is a least
the size of The Parthenon, which it somewhat resembles, in Athens and may
be in better repair. A leisurely stroll among these massive ruins, is a
peaceful, welcome and very impressive experience. After you leave the site,
walk straight down the street in front of the entrance about two blocks
to the friendly “Gourmet Restaurant” and enjoy one of their excellent
sandwiches on fresh French bread.
On your way
back to Beirut, stop off at Ksara Winery where, if you wish, you can taste
some of their excellent wine and then tour their massive cellars. From
the winery, it’s about an hour back to Beirut. I first visited Lebanon
thirty years ago, and only recently, and joyfully, became re-acquainted
with this lovely country. Put on your list of places to go, and when you
do, remember that when you feel that you have exhausted the delights of
Beirut, there is still a great deal more to do in this wonderful country.
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