Lebanon Beyond Beirut
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Lebanon Beyond Beirut
Four Must-Do Day Trips 
February 2005

Beirut is wonderful, a cosmopolitan Mediterranean city famed for its friendly people, exclusive shops and fine restaurants. The Solidaire quarter of Beirut especially is worth the trip to Lebanon, but there is more, so much more to see in Lebanon, and some of it is outside the capitol and easily done as a day trip. Here’s a sampling.

Jeita Grottos

These world-famous caves are immense and absolutely spectacular. Located about 18 kilometers along the highway north of Beirut in the valley of Nhr el Kalb, Jetta Grotto is formed of two galleries, the lower gallery being opened only in 1958.

One visits it by boat, since it is home to an underground lake, a trip of about 500 meters. It is silent, and lovely with only the slow drip of water punctuating the silence. In the immense Upper Gallery, the combination of huge of stalagmites and stalactites is magical.
 
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For millions of years, water issuing from the roof and flowing down its flanks of the cavern has slowly sculpted these caves into a fantasy palace of magical columns and pillars, a rocky fastnesses of fantastic, caves and galleries, imbued with colors and forms in infinite variety and subtlety.

Jeita Grotto is unquestionably one of the most impressive natural sites in the world. Happily it has been very carefully developed to preserve its unique beauty.

In 2002, Jeita Grotto was awarded the Sustainable Development in Tourism Prize  by a panel of International Scientific Experts in recognition of the degree of  excellence of its care in the preservation of the environment combined with the economic feasibility of the project and  impact on local economic development.The Upper Gallery may be reached by way of a cable car or on a small local “train.” 

The entrance to the lower grotto is just beside the restaurant and a shopping area. The shops offer a tasteful selection of local crafts and souvenirs. Jeita Grotto is Lebanon’s number one tourist site and recognized internationally for it superb caves. This is not to be missed.

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The Crusader Fort At Jbail

Proceed along the coastal highway north of Beirut to the smaller town of Jbail. The town itself is not much, but where you are heading is to the old quarter  of the town, formerly known as Byblos. Here you will find narrow mediaeval streets crammed with quaint shops and small restaurants. Your eventual destination is the ancient crusader fort which dominates the quarter. The site goes back to prehistoric times and signs of many civilizations are evident there; most obvious, however, are the magnificent Roman ruins which were later plundered in the search for stones to make a Crusader castle. Ramparts, cellars, Roman pillars, acres of ruins, all allow us to imagine the lovely old city of Byblos, one of the world’s oldest continually inhabited towns, dating back at least 7000 years. The 12th century crusader castle which dominates the hill, affords some wonderful views of modern Jbail. From the castle ramparts you can ponder the ruins of no fewer than seventeen civilizations.  The castle must have been deliberately situated to overlook the sea and delight its occupants with a stiff fresh sea breeze from the west.  Nowadays the busiest section is the central narrow shopping street with many little shops selling souvenirs, jewelry, clothing, snacks, and handicrafts and so on.

Needing a rest after our visit, we left the castle district for a short walk down toward the water  had lunch at  Le Vieux Port, a delicious selection  of hummus, kebbe, sambousek and, my favorite, roulade de fromage. Wonderful!

The Cedars Of Lebanon

This is a dramatic climb into Lebanon’s high mountains toward the snow-capped peaks with their ski hills. At the very summit the roads are closed in the winter months. 

As you make the climb, below you Beirut spreads, masses of white buildings, parks, and trees, especially around the university campus, but here the vegetation is more abundant yet and it seems even greener. In the distance are higher, snow-capped mountains. The road winds along steep ravines and becomes narrow. The valleys are lush and green, but so steeply-inclined that they are uncultivable.

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The road becomes even narrower, twisted and tortured until you enter the clouds and a thick fog surrounds you. It’s pretty exciting. You pass through several mountain villages, navigating narrow streets meant for horse and wagon not modern vehicles. The houses are three or more stories high and made of  grey limestone.  Small shops display a variety of fruits and vegetables outside. Before reaching the Cedars you will come at 1400 meters to Bcharree, home of Khalil Gibran. There you must visit the Museum and  Art gallery featuring the works of this strange, visionary, surreal artist. 

The famed Cedars are a short drive further at about 2000 meters. About three hundred and fifty of these magnificent trees mentioned in the Bible as one of the treasures of the region are left from the forest of hundreds of thousands which must have once carpeted the hillsides. These cedars are often mentioned in the Bible and other texts for their magnificence and are associated with the development of the port at Byblos. Over the centuries, Assyrians, Babylonians, Persians, Egyptians, Romans and many others made the pilgrimage to Mount Lebanon for its famous aromatic wood. Nebuchadnezzar, himself boasted in cuneiform writing, “I bought for building, mighty cedars, which I cut down with my pure hands on Mount Lebanon.” The cedars of Lebanon were highly prized for their size, long straight grain, reddish color, and fragrant aroma. For a small entrance fee, you can stroll among the few remaining of these magnificent giants. This is a unique encounter with natural history you can have no where else in the world. When you leave the protected forest area, you can stroll among the many roadside stands selling carvings made of the prunings of the famous cedars.

Baalbeck

At about eighty five kilometers from Beirut, modern Baalbeck is the administrative and economic center of the northern Beqaa Valley. It has enjoyed this role for millennia. The Roman ruins at Baalbeck reveal what was once one of the wonders of the ancient world going back to at least the third millennium B.C. Interesting, at one time, the Greeks identified Baalbeck with the sun god and the town was known as Heliopolis, the City of the Sun. Your first view of Baalbeck will undoubtedly be the six Corinthian columns of the Great Temple thrusting twenty-two meters into the skyline. They are stunning and, by themselves, give some idea of how huge the original structure must have been. In the lower court, look for the Lion’s Head decoration still impressive in spite of years of erosion and weathering. You must also enter the Temple of Bacchus, God of Wine and revels. It is a least the size of The Parthenon, which it somewhat resembles, in Athens and may be in better repair. A leisurely stroll among these massive ruins, is a peaceful, welcome and very impressive experience. After you leave the site, walk straight down the street in front of the entrance about two blocks to the friendly “Gourmet Restaurant” and enjoy one of their excellent sandwiches on fresh French bread.

On your way back to Beirut, stop off at Ksara Winery where, if you wish, you can taste some of their excellent wine and then tour their massive cellars. From the winery, it’s about an hour back to Beirut. I first visited Lebanon thirty years ago, and only recently, and joyfully, became re-acquainted with this lovely country. Put on your list of places to go, and when you do, remember that when you feel that you have exhausted the delights of Beirut, there is still a great deal more to do in this wonderful country.
 

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