Beautiful
Downtown...Islamabad?!
Pakistan ~ by Brandy
Bauer
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Here’s
a quick quiz…what world capital offers lush gardens, friendly natives,
great shopping, and a range of cuisine, all at an unbelievably low price?
Chances are, you probably didn’t guess Islamabad. But Pakistan’s central
city is bursting with attractions, and with few foreign visitors, it’s
still a veritable steal as far as tourism is concerned.
Most people’s
immediate association with Pakistan is one of fundamentalism, and the front-line
in the war against Al Qaeda. And while there are some border areas (as
well as the tightly controlled Azad Jammu and Kashmir provinced in the
north) which may be considered no-go zones, much of the rest of the country
is characterized by safe and easy access. This includes Islamabad, a city
so different from elsewhere in Pakistan that the country’s inhabitants
like to say their capital “is 35 km away from the rest of Pakistan.”
Maybe what
makes Islamabad so unique is that it is a planned city, without the uncontrollable
growth of most South Asian capitals. Having only become a capital city
in the 1960s (when the seat of government moved here from Karachi), Islamabad
is divided into neat sectors of residential and commercial areas. Sectors
are clearly marked by road signs with letters and numbers (easy to read,
too, as here the lingua franca is English), and wide, grassy avenues. What
this does is make the city relatively clean, smooth to navigate, and un-intimidating
to the first-time visitor to the region. Besides, if you want to enjoy
a more hectic pace of life, just hop in a car and head to Islamabad’s sister
city of Rawalpindi, where bold colors gleam off the multi-storied buildings
and the streets are filled with people, cars and animals jostling for attention.
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While
some Pakistanis may scoff at what their capital has to offer the casual
tourist, there is a lot more here than meets the eye—though there’s plenty
to meet the eye, too! The world’s largest mosque, scores of shops and scenic
hillside views can keep one entertained for days.
Perhaps the
first stop on anyone’s journey should be Shah Faisal Mosque. This mosque,
with its four white minarets, is visible from almost everywhere in the
capital and is said to be the largest mosque in the world. Surrounded by
rose gardens, the mosque has a glass, tent-like center structure which
holds worshippers, a library, cafeteria, museum and even a small university.
Muslims and non-Muslims alike are welcomed for tours, though discreet dress
is required (that includes head covering for women), and Fridays are generally
reserved solely for worship.
Islamabad is
awash with other spectacular buildings besides the mosque, however. Its
government edifices of pink and white marble provide a gentle contrast
to the large, colorful residential homes that rest along the tree-lined
boulevards. Another imposing structure, the Saudi Pak Tower in the Blue
Area, is a skyscraper with the ornate carving characteristic of architecture
in the Islamic world.
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When
looking at buildings gets tedious, embark of the delights of shopping in
Islamabad. Not a city to embrace Western-style mega-malls, the chief way
to purchase anything in the capital is at a super market. These aren’t
the type of large grocery store the name implies in America, but rather
a series of strip malls housing hundreds of sellers of clothing, CDs, carpets,
fabric and much more. Jinnah Super Market is perhaps the best known, specializing
in books, cloth and clothing dealers. The generically termed Super Market
is another good catch, as is the Blue Area. While some of the shops offer
set prices, others specialize in bargaining in the tradition of the bazaar.
My personal favorites? Indus Crafts, which serves up elegant pashminas,
embroidered bedspreads and carpets with its green tea, and Saeed Book Bank,
a veritable treasure trove of English language books on the region.
If you’re sick
of bargaining for fabric, head out to the hills for some fresh air and
a picnic. The closest treks can be found in the city itself, in the notorious
Margalla Hills. A nausea-inducing road will take you to the top of these,
which provide views of the entire capital. Along the way, you may be alternately
amused or frightened by the local wildlife—those monkeys who make it a
habit to jump in front of your car as you make the slow crawl upwards.
At one famous spot, Peer Sohawa, there’s a restaurant serving delicious
chicken tikka; it’s here that young local couples congregate, away from
the prying eyes of chaperones.
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For
more hillside trekking, the nearby town of Murree makes for a good day
trip. Once a hillside outpost of the British empire, Murree is now a popular
tourist destination for Pakistanis and foreigners alike, with a bazaar
and lots of green spaces made for walking or cycling.
Getting to
any of these places is easy. Public transport is widely available in the
form of taxis, which can be hailed almost anywhere, and an average ride
is unlikely to set you back more than a dollar or two. Like most South
Asian countries, however, roads can be treacherous, with pedestrians, cars
and bicycles vying for space, and little attention is paid to the rules
of traffic.
Where does
one stay in Islamabad? While there are several five-star establishments
such as the Islamabad Serena and Marriott, the majority of travelers lay
their heads down at the city’s numerous guesthouses. These hotels, nestled
in residential areas, usually have between half a dozen to a dozen rooms,
most with en suite facilities, and range in price from $20-$50 a night.
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Rooms
are typically spacious and come complete with fans/air conditioning units
(perfect for hot, humid summers), cable television, and mini-bar (though
as an Islamic country, the bars are only stocked with juices and sodas).
Meals can be taken just about any time of day, as can the ubiquitous Pakistani
chai—a deliciously sweet milk tea not to be missed. Many of these establishments
also have outdoor gardens where guests can relax in lounge chairs, just
reading a book or admiring the exotic trees snaking up over the garden
walls.
Come dinner
time, Islamabad has a range of inviting restaurants to sample. While most
Westerners probably think Pakistani food is all curries and kebabs, they’re
in for a surprise. Sure, there are plenty of establishments serving the
average fare, but even these shouldn’t be knocked—crispy pakoras filled
with vegetables and meat, daals, and biryani rice are all hearty and tasty,
with subtleties depending on how they’re prepared. But there are other
eateries that suit any palate—from Lebanese to Afghan to continental European
food. Mondrian, for example, is a basement restaurant offering sandwiches
and soups amid an art nouveau atmosphere. And there are also fast food
options, as well, complete with a South Asian twist. Go to Pizza Hut and
get a curry topped pan pizza, or visit the notorious joint One Potato,
Two Potato and order spicy French Fries with your chicken burger. Afterwards,
hit one of Islamabad’s numerous sweet shops to have some ice cream or gulab
jaman, sickeningly sweet doughy balls glazed in syrup.
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In this day
of global tourism, it’s probably a rare opportunity to visit a world capital
that is still relatively undiscovered, and not bursting at the seams with
overpopulation and accompanying pollution. Islamabad is a gem of sorts,
a quiet oasis in an otherwise characteristically bustling country. Perhaps
that’s why the moniker “City of Peace” which the city gives itself turns
out to be so fitting.
The following
are Brandy's previous articles for the magazine:
The
Warm Pleasures Of Cold ~ Iceland
Offseason
Esfahan
nesf-e jahan ~ Half the World ~ A Woman's Sojourn to the Islamic Republic
of Iran -
Sojourn
to Iran
Kabul,
Kabul ~ Living
In Afghanistan
To contact
Brandy Click Here
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