| Though
I did take advantage of the business center on more than one occasion as
I’ve yet to replace my departed and long since dated laptop. One catch
about this though; if you plan to use the internet on a frequent basis,
the hotel business centers are far from economical. Get one of the
staff members to direct you to the nearest internet café in town
– there are plenty of them and at a fraction of the cost. Still in
all, it was difficult to get used to being in what equated to a 4-star
facility where the same price will get you four channels and fleas in the
states, and live in the lap of luxury for the better part of a week.
Make room
reservations five days in advance to leaving, however, or risk paying
nearly $100 a night – that’s $25 per star if you’re counting, and still
an excellent bargain anyway. It’s best to book online and join one of their
card carrying clubs while you’re at it. You can pile up membership points
in no time and be on your way to some free stays for the next trip.
One thing
you notice traveling through Beijing is that it’s maddeningly crowded.
Coming from New York City, I’m not often surprised by such things as hot
weather or crowded streets. If I arrived from, say, somewhere in the Adirondacks,
however, the trauma might have been enough to replant me on the next plane
home. Beijing, China’s capitol, is a huge city, with a population of 13
million, second only to Shanghai’s nearly half a million more. It is a
beautiful metropolis where modern marvels and ancient wonders sit side-by-side.
As a tourist,
it is absolutely essential to visit The Great Wall. Dating from the
7th century BC, the wall emerges over thousands of miles of rolling peaks,
offering views of the jagged countryside and unique perspective on China’s
heritage. As big as it is, it seems far away from everywhere. It’s
like the City of Buffalo in New York. Unless you’re starting from within
the city limits, it’s a day-long trip from seemingly anywhere else!
You haven’t been to Beijing unless you’ve seen The Great Wall, and you’ll
be greeted with odd looks of disapproval when a local asks your opinion
and… if time allows, make the trip. If not, tell everyone you did anyway
and make something up. There’s plenty of detail ploughed into the wall
itself, but much less required to spin a story to the contrary.
Inside Beijing
lies the Forbidden City, or as it is known today as The Palace Museum,
which for five centuries was the imperial palace of the Ming and Qing Dynasties.
It features some 10,000 (though I’ve seen it listed at 8,707) elaborate
rooms containing priceless furniture, paintings and statues, as well as
centuries-old garden areas with exquisite charm. Across the rather intimidating
width of Changan Street, is the gate leading to Tiananmen Square, an expansive
area wherein imperial edicts were once read to the public, and the site
of many unsightly rallies in more recent times. Renmin Yingxiong Jinianbei,
a 125-foot granite column erected in 1958 to honor the “People’s Heroes,”
stands in the middle of the square, as does the hall where the body of
Chairman Mao Tse-tung lies. In 1949, Communist Party Chairman Mao raised
the first flag of the People's Republic of China during a ceremony in Beijing.
As China’s most powerful and influential ruler for 25 years, his portrait
was hung on Tiananmen Gate where his eyes seem to follow you in either
direction… "Long Live The People's Republic of China."
On the south
end of the square is the Museum of Chinese History, which houses priceless
collections of Chinese art and artifacts, from Tang Dynasty (AD 618-907)
tomb relics and Zhou Dynasty (BC 1050-480) bronze wares to Buddhist
statues and artifacts from the communist revolution of the early 20th century.
We took
an extensive tour of the Palace Museum, for which a guide map is highly
recommended, to navigate this massive expanse of flat asphalt and imperial-styled
gardens. What follows is wave after wave of gated squares, lofty towers,
and broad halls with sloping roofs; it is a truly remarkable taste of 15th
century China within the modern day capital. For reference, The Palace
Museum occupies over 720,000 square meters with 9,000 bays of halls and
rooms. The construction area amounts to about 150,000 square meters
and the surrounding walls are 10 meters high and 3,428 meters long – or
nearly 37,000 square feet. There is also a moat surrounding the outside
walls which measures 52 meters wide and 3,800 meters long. The “city”
was essentially designed to be a well-fortified castle... and they’d get
little argument from me. Most enemies would die of exhaustion just traversing
the many steps to and from each successive building, mid-summer or otherwise.
The City
is divided into two parts: the outer and inner courts. The outer was
the place where emperors handled court-ly affairs and held various ceremonies;
the inner court consisted of a number of halls where the emperor lived
and handled day-to-day business. Many of the buildings within The Forbidden
City were under renovation during our visit, but overall, it has been well
preserved and is considered the most magnificent ancient architectural
complex in China… and the biggest standing complex of palaces in the world!
It was truly awe-inspiring to take a momentary step out of time and take
in all of the rich magnificence of this period, and to then look out beyond
The Forbidden City and see the modern day high-rises and bustling streets.
The Lama
Temple of Beijing, (or The Palace of Peace and Harmony Lama Temple, or
Yonghegong Lamasery), is a Tibetan Lamasery of the Yellow Hat Sect of Lamaism
first built in 1694, and is an excellent way to spend an hour or two to
get away from the more crowded attractions. It was originally
the residence of a Qing dynasty prince, Yin Zhen, a son of Emperor Kang
Xi. After the prince came to the throne, half of the residence was
used as an imperial palace and the other half was converted to a lamasery.
The Tibetan monks would not move in until 1744. Located in
the northeast part of Beijing city, a fair distance away from the throngs
at Tianenmen Square, it’s a relaxing excursion to search for inner peace
and tranquility – but one must be on the lookout for tour groups as well
as they can at times be a bit of a threat to said “peace.”
The Lama
Temple features five large halls and five courtyards with beautifully decorated
archways and carved details. It houses a treasury of Buddhist art,
including sculptured images of gods, demons and Buddhas, as well as Tibetan-style
murals. A Buddha is not thought of as one sole entity, but rather, any
number of representations of that which is consistent with a peaceful,
prosperous life. The statues are all remarkably detailed wood carvings
that sparkle from a distance in gold and jewels, many of which stand larger
than life up close. Speaking of which, The Lamasery is also home to the
largest wooden sculpture on earth, an 18 meter tall Buddha carved from
a single sandalwood tree. It struck quite an imposing figure in spite of
its welcoming smile.
Beijing
also offers visitors plenty of nightlife. Though much of mine was spent
inside the elegant Hotel lounge sipping drinks and catching parts of the
Olympic Games to be seen everywhere there was a television. Some of the
popular choices for evening entertainment include theatrical events such
as the acclaimed Peking Opera, known as the “quintessence of Chinese
culture,” as performed in the Liyuan Theatre where they allow you to
visit the make up room and take a group photo with the performers themselves.
For those equally as adventurous, and potentially more vivacious, there
is The Legend of Kung Fu, which takes place every evening at 7:30 in the
Red Theatre and follows the story of a little boy and his ascension into
manhood through the practice of Kung Fu and Zen techniques. The show features
real Kung Fu, modern dance, acrobatics, and some magical special effects
that have to be seen to be believed.
Everyone
I came in contact with in Beijing recommended the capital city as the sensible
place to pour investment funds. While I was not there long enough to
view any significant investment opportunities first hand, I did come away
with a better understanding about real estate investing. Initial
views of China and foreign investment are quite grim, and rightfully so.
This is, after all, a nation in great transition, and though gradual change
is taking place, it is an old Communist guard at the helm that is attempting
to overhaul a long standing tradition in the face of youthful exuberance,
and uncertainty. Nonetheless, given China’s booming economy and their eventual
acceptance into the WTO, this has to happen, one way or another.
I did not
leave there convinced that investing in Beijing made perfect sense;
it’s expensive, but my feeling is that it will be a place worth following
as we move closer toward the 2008 Olympic Games and infrastructural renovations
and development begin to take shape. In fact the city will get a major
overhaul in preparation for the games. There will be massive amounts of
monies, foreign and domestic, flowing through there for the historic event.
When the games arrive there in another four years, they will be hugely
popular and there will not be any empty seats.
I have some
reservations about investing in property there, even as I write this, though
I am keeping an eye open in the future. Being one of mainland
China’s biggest cities, Beijing is amassed with overcrowding and from my
perception, overzealousness in building. There can be seen many a crane
flailing atop unfinished buildings, a potential reflection of poorly managed
projects from little-known developers. There is talk of a real estate bubble
as the government tries to weed through inflationary issues as they stand
in as the evil twin counterbalance of the overall budding progress with
China’s soaring growth rate. As things stand now property investing remains
strong while interest rates remain inviting, but that is not likely to
last too long as the government must continue trying to tighten the collective
belt of free spenders living large off easily attainable bank loans, and
try to maneuver the economy through to the soft landing frequently spoken
of, while avoiding the hard one often feared.
In terms
of foreign investing, it has gotten easier by way of banking flexibility,
and more importantly, governmental stability and a transparency to allow
the individual investor some degree of security to do business in a major
city like Beijing. The government, offering more federal than state-dependent
support, continues to step forward to encourage foreign investment, which
in many cases still sits the sidelines with a wait and see approach; however,
finding good value may be the real catch here.
After four
days in Beijing I set out to return to Wuxi City, the place where I spent
my first visit nearly a year earlier, and a considerably smaller, if faintly
less crowded city. I opted to take a two hour flight from Beijing
rather than the 12 hour train ride, wanting to maximize my visit with friends
and sightseeing time. The cost was comparative for either choice, roughly
$100. Beijing Airport is relatively simple compared to the convoluted mess
of U.S. airports like Kennedy and LAX. It’s crowded and you take
your life in your hands stepping from the taxi to the curbside baggage
area, but once inside, and after doing check-in, it’s fun to spend some
time there. It’s like a quaint little Chinese city all to itself
with traditionally-themed restaurants, beauty shops, massage parlors, and
so forth. Arriving in Wuxi was welcome. There was still so much of the
city I had yet to see, and not that the bus ride from the airport to the
center of town revealed much more than typically suburban, and even barren
neighborhoods, but as with most out of the way airports, it allows you
to actually see the city before entering into it. It was just as
I remembered it… almost.
Wuxi lies
in the central Yangtze River Delta on the southeast coast of China. It
is 128km (80 miles) away from Shanghai to its east; it borders the
Yangtze River to the north while embracing the Taihu Lake to the south.
It is a coastal city of the Jiangsu Province. Jiangsu is situated
in China's southeast coast on the lower reaches of the Changjiang (Yangtze)
River where the River, the Grand Canal, Taihu Lake, and Hongze Lake connect
to form the Changjiang River Delta, a renowned network of waterways there.
Jiangsu was made a province during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911),
and is divided into northern and southern halves by the River. The province
itself has a well? developed economy, and is considered a "land of plenty,"
producing rice, wheat, cotton, silk, and fish. Wuxi, meaning “without
tin,” during the Han dynasty (206 BC-AD 220) when local tin
ores were depleted, is among the oldest cities in China.
With a total
population of nearly 4.5 million it has seen an almost five fold increase
in residence during the past decade. So while it’s not exactly
Beijing, it’s not so small either, and is situated in a convenient location
between China’s two largest cities, only about a 90 minute commute by car
to Shanghai, or slightly longer flight to the capitol. It was extremely
hot and humid there too – and why not, we only moved some 700 miles to
the south and slightly inward – but it does have a very seasonal climate
consistent with us Westerners from the northeast… Wuxi, which I came
to learn the first time, is a pleasant city that combines a natural landscape
and age old culture with plenty of big city attractions – the best of both
worlds in a city that’s about a third smaller than Shanghai and roughly
two-thirds less populated.
Besides
revisiting friends and familiar places, I wanted to spend more time in
the city itself and try to get immersed in the culture; and also to see
where property prices stood in relation to the higher priced markets of
Beijing or Shanghai. Wuxi is located essentially between the two, so
I expected some degree of decrease in relation, although it was granted
the name “Little Shanghai” for a reason. A brief fact that
may be lost on many – at least those who have never visited there – is
that Wuxi is among China's premier tourist cities luring over ten million
domestic and international travelers a year. Apparently the local government’s
caught on as evidenced by last November’s approval from the State Development
and Planning Commission which approved a project for a military-turned-civilian
airport to help ease the inconvenience spurred by Shanghai's decision in
October 2002 to transfer all international cargo and passenger flights
from Shanghai Hongqiao airport to PuDong. I personally wouldn’t know,
having only arrived and departed from the PuDong Airport, but after a few
moments on the roadways, it’s easy to see the logic. And thus, Wuxi Airport
now operates passenger flights to Shenzhen, Beijing and Guangzhou.
Wuxi is
not Shanghai or Beijing in terms of size and scale, but in terms of ambition
and growth, it’s closing quickly. Considering the development taking
place there, one would be hard-pressed to walk through the City Center
and find a discernable difference between there and many other major cities.
Take one look at the skyline from a distance and it’s awe-inspiring… and
yet you’re only minutes from the serenity of Lake Taihu, one of Wuxi’s
natural wonders.
Upon arriving
I checked in to the Gang Li Hotel located along the busy Zhong Shan Road,
Wuxi’s approximate equivalent to New York’s Broadway, the only difference
is the traffic actually subsides at some point after dark. But
it’s more than made up for during the morning rush that seemingly lasts
till 2pm. The Gang Li didn’t impress me much at first; maybe this had to
do more with my expectation of staying at the familiar Grand Canal a few
miles down; or maybe because my room was too small and the door card didn’t
work... I think it had more to do with my being spoiled from my earlier
stay at the Beijing Holiday Inn and being immediately put off by not seeing
any romantic lounges surrounded by candle lights with street views and
water fountain… but I learned to adapt for four stars and forty bucks a
night!
For the
most part I was left to my own devices. I had already seen many of
the scenic tourist areas last year and this time I wanted to blend in with
the locals and traverse the city by foot. Blending in was clearly
not an option as many of these people appeared quite stunned to spot an
American guy casually walking among them; though I did have my camera so
that legitimized things a little. Yes, I was a tourist after all,
but I had genuine thoughts about what life could be like there. After
getting lost a few times, I managed to stay the course along Zhong Shan
Road, difficult to miss, but easy enough to pronounce for even someone
like me where getting lost is an art unto itself. In Beijing I stood out,
without question, but many people spoke or understood English well enough
to make me feel secure. In Wuxi, they’re not quite up to that point,
and aside from many of the hotel staff, it was very difficult to communicate
with the locals. I do see this changing eventually as tourism continues
to grow and foreign investment continues to flow, but for all intents and
purposes, I did feel slightly self-conscious.
It didn’t
dawn on me at the time, but not only because Wuxi’s still a bit green when
it comes to world renown, I realized that many of these people have probably
never left their own country, let alone their own province, to do any significant
amount of traveling. Bearing in mind the absurdity involved for a Chinese
citizen to get a visa to travel to the U.S., how many of these people ever
really saw a Westerner live and in person? Add to that the fact that
television programming there is limited compared to the dish networks provided
in the bigger cities where worldwide programming and English news channels
are available. And now that I have somewhat succeeded in justifying
my own perceived alienation in the City of Wuxi, I will pre-empt that by
saying the people are generally friendly and well mannered, as I made quick
friends with many I met, most of whom were either hotel employees or local
salespeople. However, when it comes to cramming onto a local bus at the
airport, or waiting in line for the next bank teller, all bets are off!
Zhong Shan
Road is a very active roadway that along either side one can find numerous
shops, banks, restaurants, indoor malls, and tall industrial buildings.
It is a true metropolis in the making. Many shopping malls provide
the broad base for rising residential and business complexes that can be
seen on nearly every corner. Four corner intersections are reminiscent
of most major cities, where at either side can be seen giant billboards
fashioning the latest “fashion” or magnificently sculpted awnings
leading the way into traditional Chinese restaurants. Like most major
cities, Wuxi is not without its share of KFCs or McDonalds… but a surprise
was seeing the long lines form outside Pizza Hut during dinner time.
It was then I had my first “brilliant” idea; why not open a New
York-styled pizzeria in the center of town there? Not as easy as
it sounds, certainly, but considering the popularity of a chain operation
like Pizza Hut, the crowds would go gangbusters for something truly authentic
from a world famous region of the globe many might never get to see.
I’ll revisit that idea another time. For now, I was awestruck by
a couple of new office/residential complexes under construction in the
City Center that I had to get a look at up close.
I easily
dismissed the first one I saw; even got as far as touring it while it was
under construction, nearly broke my neck scaling a beam to get to the elevator,
but the price seemed a bit rich for my blood. Another mid-construction
complex stood only a couple of blocks away but could be seen for miles…
or certainly would be upon completion. It is being hailed as Wuxi’s
first real skyscraper and will become the tallest building in the city.
More Sky 360 was not difficult to envision from the outside, though its
construction was barely a quarter completed, but thanks to the indoor model
on display in the elegant lobby at the front of the building, the projected
design would be truly state of the art. It was here where I would
settle in for the next couple of hours… and then days, as the possibility
crept closer and closer of investing there.
My initial
plan for property purchase was to find a modest one or two bedroom apartment
on the cheap, have it on standby for my future visits there, rent it in
the interim, and make sure it was a sound investment with plenty of upward
potential. Simple. The plan really has not changed much,
only we might replace “modest” with “miraculous.” I
am guilty of falling too far too fast for something that in most other
parts of the world would be financially unattainable. In fact for
the same kind of apartment in the same kind of building in either Beijing
or Shanghai the price would be 2 or 3 times what it was here. That
is primarily why I spent as much time there as I did and why I continue
to monitor the phones to wait for some unexpected breakthrough that allows
me, a foreigner, to do business with a Chinese bank in a low profile locale
that’s much more prohibitive to deal in than its biggie-sized brethren
to the north and south.
More Sky
is monumental in scale. It will be 50 stories high and include a number
of business offices, retail outlets and residential living space.
It will include all of the amenities of a five star luxury hotel, and is
located right in the heart of Wuxi’s City Center. I’ve cooled a bit
since my return, spending more time researching, discussing, rationalizing,
first, the safety issue of transacting business in a far off land with
new governmental challenges and an evolving rule of law, and second, who
can I trust with my money and does the developer follow through with its
plan? Accountability and transparency are two words often tossed
about when it comes to investing in emerging markets like China.
I don’t have a crystal ball to know where this project ends up; most who
I have spoken with both here and abroad acknowledge there remains some
risk, but also certain that the government has gone to great lengths to
lessen the risk and further widen the entry to foreign investment.
A project
of the magnitude of More Sky and the fact it will represent the biggest
project the city has undertaken to date, virtually assures investors that
it will continue until finished as too much lies at stake for both the
city and the government itself to do otherwise. Am I convinced?
Somewhat. Buying into a property this far before completion will
always create some fear. But the flipside to that is, waiting until completion,
one runs the risk of missing out on a slightly above ground-level opportunity
as the developer discounts the purchase price and therefore its own bargaining
power with the banks as it seeks to fund its continuing operations.
Investing is always about some risk…
For the
last ten years China has fixed its currency at roughly 8.3 Yuan to the
U.S. dollar, and the peg has become a politically sensitive topic in this
election year. U.S. manufacturers and labor leaders complain
the fixed exchange rate provides an unfair cost advantage to China's exporters
and has been responsible for many of the millions of jobs lost over the
past three years. As a U.S. citizen, this disturbs me. I don’t
want to see anyone lose their jobs as a result of this, which has contributed
to a monstrous trade deficit of some $70 billion. As a foreign visitor/investor,
however, I’m not too worried about that. I know that for every dollar
I get 8.3 Yuan in return, thus, $100 turns over 830 Yuan… that goes a long
way there. To put it simply, I’ll take 100 bucks (admittedly conservative)
with me to mainland China, and have tons more fun with it! My friends
there were only too willing to share in my newfound, if temporary wealth.
Lunches
and dinners were spent at exquisite restaurants with six to eight course
meals that I would rate as excellent, however, being not quite so adventurous,
I could not appreciate the full magnitude of some of the menu items most
of which I couldn’t read anyway. But for $15 or $18 bucks and
no tip (they don’t do that there) I gave it my best effort. Luckily,
my friends knew enough to cover the bases. Interestingly enough,
having been raised on the Chinese food presented here in America, I expected
to receive bowls of white rice with everything; not the case there.
In fact I felt compelled to ask for some near the end of my stay. Another
distinction besides the way the food is prepared, much less “commercial”
might we say, where Shrimp with Lobster Sauce and General Tso yield little
more than shoulder shrugs from the wait staff, is that the Chinese fare
leaves little to the imagination. I’m a picky eater, and we’ll leave it
at that. But overall, save for some roast duck that went south quickly
in Beijing, I was quite pleased with my dining experience.
There is
no shortage of places to see and things to do in Wuxi. I spent most
of my time touring the city, in and out of shopping malls, and walking
along the busy streets, many of the busiest of which are stocked with crossing
guards and walk/don’t walks signs running thirty second timers so you can
actually view how much time you have left before the maniacal taxi driver
runs you down a foot from the curb. Yes, they have them there too.
In fact congestion… it’s safe to say post-nasal drip, and Chinese intersections
are of the same blood. In China, pick a city, any city, and you’re likely
to find a busier, even less organized manner for moving from point A to
B. China’s the world’s most populous country. In fact about
80% of it seemed follow me from Beijing to Wuxi and then to Shanghai.
There was no shaking them. If only I knew of my far reaching popularity…
But in all seriousness, somehow it works. Just when you think there’s
no way the commuters on the bikes or the mom pushing the kid in the carriage
have a chance to make it across, they do; there’s no rhyme, reason, or
real structure to it, but somehow, near misses aside, it’s almost all choreographed
to freak out foreigners who thought they knew crowded conditions and busy
commutes!
The Gang
Li Hotel was where I called home for my five nights there. I decided
to lay low on most evenings, in spite of repeated urgings of “Karaoke”
from roadside promoters. Karaoke’s a fun event when you’re with a
lot of friends and you’re out for the evening. When you’re a foreigner
walking along the main street on your way home for the evening, it means
quite a different thing. The hotel was a comfortable place to stay
and the staff was very cordial. I could certainly have thought of
worse places to stay for $40 a night than in facilities that included four
star amenities and free breakfast. Much of my leisure time in the
hotel was spent either on the internet, or chatting with my new friends
in the hotel gift shop, all of whom were eager to learn English, and happy
to watch me struggle with the Chinese words they wrote out for me.
I mastered “Hello (respectful),” “Hello (casual),” “Thank
you,” “You’re Welcome,” “Why” and “What,” but
the rest of the essentials we’ll save for another time.
In terms
of investing in Wuxi it depends who you ask. I was disappointed at
not being able to speak directly with a real estate agent there.
In fact I was unable to speak directly with most people. But Wuxi, which
is among the more developing industrial areas of China, is not thought
of as a golden investment opportunity. Personally, I don’t see why.
It is definitely of much smaller scale than places like Shanghai, but development
can yet be seen in every direction there. Wuxi is one of the most
important hubs for water and land transport in the Jiangnan area.
It has a well developed railway and highway system, both of which I have
traveled on; it has its own airport; and it possesses that sort of natural
exotic beauty outside the city limits that many of us only read about in
the international travel magazines but so few ever take the advantage of
seeing first hand. From what I have seen, I would say the best of
both worlds, and still building.
Wuxi City
is a conglomeration of beautiful rivers, lakes, and springs and offers
a variety of tourist programs for those interested in sightseeing and learning
traditional folk customs. Historical landmarks are in abundance
there – Meiliang Lake, Lihu Lake, Xihui Park, Mashan Hill, The Taihu Lake
Amusement Ground, The Grand Canal, and Li Garden. Wuxi is also famous
for pottery production, is the main center of cotton textiles, and can
boast abundant water and soil resources at the forefront of a burgeoning
agriculture. So is Wuxi a nice place to visit? Yes. Would
it be a nice place to settle for a while? Yes. Is there much
value to be found as an investor? Maybe.
It is a
city that is currently on the move. In fact Wuxi is relied upon
by many to be the transportation center of the area. In a little
over ten years, its population has multiplied almost five times.
Property prices have long since caught on, as owning a chunk of this city
is no longer dirt cheap. Investing there is still speculative.
Based strictly on appreciation potential, there’s more value to be found
there than a top-heavy place like Beijing. Will it happen, and if
so, how far into the future? It’s hard to know. But all things
considered, Wuxi has a lot to offer in the way of business, industry, and
tourism, with more and more progress being made. This will definitely
be one to watch in the future.
Shanghai
is a place many talk about visiting when going to China. During
my earlier trip, I spent a couple of days walking around the city, taking
in the wondrous sites and sounds of this Manhattan in the making.
Yes, Shanghai has been, and continues to develop at a rapid pace with seemingly
more and more property building and investment taking place by the hour.
Shanghai is China’s largest city and boasts a population of over 14.6 million.
It is one of the largest centers of economic growth in China, approaching
Hong Kong-like proportions. It’s not necessarily the kind of place
one would go to spot endless tourist attractions, though this too is on
the developmental upswing. This is not to say there aren’t many now
– in fact there are plenty. But in terms of ancient historical sites,
Shanghai goers will find much more modernity and recent history to discover.
The government has made an effort to develop the city tourism around the
idea of "city scenery," "city culture," and "city commerce."
The key term being “city” of course. Shanghai possesses very
much its own identity in relation to a place like Beijing. The municipal
government has gradually mapped out three tourism itineraries - city tours,
business, and shopping – all organized around the People's Square.
The People’s Square (Ren Min Guang Chang) is a vast public square
surrounded by government buildings, well manicured landscape, a 320 square
meter water fountain, subway station and an underground shopping mall.
At its core sits the impressive Shanghai Museum, which features more than
120,000 precious and rare works of art along with many galleries showcasing
the amazing ceramic, sculpture and jade art the Chinese are famous for.
It’s not quite the Louvre in Paris… but then again neither is anything
else. Definitely a must-visit attraction in the heart of the big
city! Another interesting site to see is the Shanghai Oriental Pearl TV
Tower. Only ten years of age, it stands 468 meters high (1,535
feet), the highest in Asia and the third highest in the world (Toronto
and Moscow claim top honors). The architectural modeling of the
tower is remarkably unique - its structure consists of 11 spheres, different
in sizes and arranged at different levels, hanging from the upper levels
down to the ground to exemplify an artistic concept of “pearls, big
and small, dropping on a jade plate.” Far from being simply a
TV station, however, The Oriental Pearl TV Tower combines sightseeing,
catering, shopping, recreation, accommodation, broadcasting and TV transmission
all into one spherical, yet stand alone body. Its silhouette among
the high-rises along the Juangpu Jiang River is nearly rocketship-like
from a distance – and an amazing sight to see amidst the stars. It
is symbolic of oriental architecture and very popular for tourists.
Where Beijing
has plenty of historic sites and ancient marvels, and Wuxi has its fabulous
canals and lakes, Shanghai has… shopping. And lots of it.
Shanghai
has become famous as a "Shopping Paradise" and “Oriental Paris” throughout
the years for a reason. Visitors can come to Shanghai to appreciate
the beautiful urban scenery, but a main attraction is in browsing in its
various kinds of shops and stores. Nanjing Road, China's biggest
commercial street, is a necessity for all visitors; Huaihai Road, an elegant
and cultural commercial street, attracts thousands of young people who
search for the latest fashion trends; and Sichuan Road, a popular commercial
street, is specially favored by the working classes.
My plan
was to take the train down from Wuxi, about a 90 minute ride, find
a cheap hotel, settle in for the next couple of days, and perhaps find
some worthwhile property investments to explore along the way, before cabbing
it over to PuDong Airport for the flight home. Didn’t quite work out that
way, but then again, when does it ever? Thankfully, my wonderful friend
from Wuxi was willing to accompany me on my broken trek to Shanghai; we
took a taxi rather than the train.
Taking the
driver at her word that she could get us to the Central Business District
in Shanghai… first mistake was assuming she even knew where the city was
in the first place. Two hours later we were racing to the airport.
Why? I still don’t know. Luckily, she didn’t either. We thus made it just
in time for rush hour and sat in stalled traffic for several minutes before
pulling over for the fourth time to ask directions. Finally, jumping into
another cab, with her blessing, and ultimately paying about a fourth of
what the fare read on the meter, we were mobile again. Foreigners like
myself wouldn’t normally know this, but it is evidently all right in China
to not pay full fare, for anything, if you don’t want to. Haggling is definitely
a prominent part of daily business there. Not that I thought to offer my
hotel clerk 50 Yuan at the end of my stay and storm off if they declined,
but for the most part, when you’re dealing with shopping, exchange rate
services (yes, they offer them right out front of the bank doors),
taxi fares, etc. it is common to debate the price and often pay what you
think the product or service was worth. I didn’t complain.
Upon arriving,
though it was mid-week, it seemed as though it was Sunday. Everyone was
out and about, strolling, sitting, shopping. We landed a reasonably
priced hotel called Seventh Heaven, which is not easy to come by there.
The prices are significantly higher than a place like Wuxi. For a
basic closet-sized room with a view of the rooftop next door and partially
operable door knob the cost was about 400 Yuan – or $50. Depending
on one’s tastes, the cheaper rates can be found, and without much sacrifice
in terms of location. The area I stayed in was bustling. The entrance to
the hotel is actually well covered by a grand entrance to a clothing store,
a stairway down leading to a convenience shop… and then there’s the beautiful
cosmetics sign just above the entryway signaling that you are in fact,
nowhere near anything remotely resembling lodging for the evening.
But alas, once inside the hallway of the portal to a thousand shops, there
stands an elevator and nearby sign advertising a floor by floor list of
contents… and there on the seventh floor, the hotel! It actually
took up most of the rest of the floors above, but once arriving in the
lobby, it all made sense. And then there’s the Grand Hyatt not too far
off for a mere $200 per. My thought here was to have a place to crash and
how soon can I get back outside with my camera.
There was
Nanjing Road East right across from the building, and to the west, was
a smaller pathway, closed off to cars, open only to pedestrians and small
shuttles to transport those pedestrians when they’d had enough walking.
And it’s easy to do; the roadway goes on forever. And along either side
are many shops, malls, and restaurants, while interspersed lie quiet inlets
with tinier mom and pop-looking places that sell anything from produce
to electronic gadgets. And there was a Pizza Hut. Nanjing Road is amongst
those aforementioned highlights to do with the “shopper’s paradise” and
it’s all of that and more. Though my goal was not to do much shopping,
it was interesting to pop into a shop or two and see what was on display.
One can
see a lot of modernity amidst Chinese history in Shanghai. It’s a very
contemporary place to visit. Shanghai is becoming more and more international,
and has become an important center of finance, economy, and trading, as
well as an important international central city in the Asia-Pacific area.
Shanghai,
with so many business people rushing in, is not only China's economic and
cultural center, but also offers a variety of ethnic restaurants for diners
of all tastes. Different styles of Chinese cuisine, of which there
are many, meet and merge in Shanghai to effectively create what is known
as “Shanghai style,” and is influenced by the likes of Beijing cuisine,
Yangzhou cuisine, Guangdong cuisine and Sichuan cuisine, together with
the foods of Suzhou, Wuxi, Ningbo and Hangzhou, making Shanghai the ideal
“gourmet kingdom…” for those who can appreciate the difference.
But it’s
after the lights go down that this city really shines! As the
night falls, Shanghai, a busy and noisy city by day, seems to quiet down
noticeably at night. Neon lights, floodlights, laser lights and other colorful
lights called “stars of the sky” all start to glitter; unimaginable
until you’ve witnessed them in person. It’s almost like having Fourth
of July displays in a steady and ongoing stream of sparkling and revolving
sky lighting effects that present an unbelievable view.
My visit
to Shanghai was a day and a half briefer than my stay in the other two
cities. For anyone to get the true feel and value of this city, taking
an eight or ten day tour is the best way to go. My trip was meant to mix
some business with pleasure, get a taste of life in a few of the major
cities, maybe lay some roots down for a future trip, and come away more
experienced and with more appreciation of the culture as a whole. I accomplished
all of those things but perhaps the most ironic of all, and in hindsight
probably obvious, I probably learned as much about property investment
in China after getting home and speaking with Chinese friends of friends
that I had there. But the main thing is I had something to talk about;
and it was very necessary to see first hand and witness all of the building,
the development, the culture, and the lifestyle of these people on the
other side of the world from me; and in a place that I certainly want to
invest in and conceivably would like to spend more time in.
As a tourist,
my
recommendation is to line up a package deal through an agency and do the
city-jumping circuit and learn everything in great detail. I saved a grand
or two on going it “alone,” and was lucky enough to have connections
in the places I visited to negate the necessity of a walking guide book,
but to fully understand and appreciate all these cities have to offer,
that’s the best way to go.
In terms
of investing there, it’s still a bit complex for foreigners, but getting
better. My first suggestion would be to go there and spend some time
amongst the people. The major cities are generally workable for English
speakers. Another idea is to make some contacts in a local Chinatown in
your city – every major city seems to have one. And press them for
ideas and suggestions on how to go about Chinese investment. Odds are you’ll
get a lot farther preparing beforehand and dealing with your own native
speakers than trying to wing it when already there. It helps to prepare
you in advance of what to expect when comes time to tour prospective properties;
and it’s easy to do, sticking again to the major cities, virtual tours
and extensive listings of real estate for sale can be found all over the
web and in a variety of language text.
Besides
this, as a foreigner, you’re likely to come away with a new found appreciation
for the land and its people who possess an on the move, foot to the floor
work ethic that should help this land continue to thrive in the future.
Though it’s a long trip for many travelers, it is an exciting and exotic
getaway that offers much in the way of charm, culture and scenery.
Some Helpful
Resources
Beijing
Beijing Tours:
www.beijingtrip.com
The Palace
Museum: www.dpm.org.cn
Wuxi
Travel &
Tour Guide: www.orientaltravel.com/China/Wuxi
More on Wuxi
(within JiangSu Province): www.linktrip.com/jiangsu/index
Shanghai
Shanghai: Visitor
Info: www.shanghai-ed.com
The following
is Vinnie's first article for the magazine:
www.vinniesworld.com
For information you can contact Vinnie at: va85@columbia.edu |