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Cancun
The Daylife
by Dawnelle Salant
Cancun has a certain reputation for being a manufactured part of Mexico where tourists do nothing more than lie on the white sand beaches all day and hop from one glamorous club to the next at night. 

This is, for the most part, an accurate picture of the city itself. But what many tourists don’t know is that the area surrounding Mexico’s jewel of the Caribbean is chock full of nature, history, breathtaking scenery and adventure filled day trips that will surprise and delight travelers of all ages. 

Of course, if all you’re looking for is a relaxing beach holiday, Cancun is ideal for this as well. 

Three million annual visitors can’t be wrong! The city is comprised of two areas: the downtown section can be found on the mainland, while a twenty kilometer island, also known as the Hotel Zone, is home to more than 143 hotels with over 26,500 rooms (and counting). You might be surprised to learn that Cancun is only about 30 years old. But with one glance at the perfect white sand beaches and glimmering views of the Caribbean, it’s no secret why the area was chosen to become one of Mexico’s premier resorts.

Almost all of the hotels have private beaches covered with some of the finest, softest, white sand that the Caribbean has to offer. A blend of shell and ground coral, the powdery sand reflects the hot sun and retains less heat due to its composition. This makes it an absolute pleasure to walk upon while the bath warm water Caribbean laps at your feet.

Tempted? It’s easy to see how one could easily spend their entire holiday lounging in paradise, but please, if you ever have the good fortune to find yourself in Cancun, pry yourself away from the beach for at least a few days. 

There’s a whole other world waiting for you.

Pac Chen

If you only do a one day trip from Cancun, I’d highly recommend one of Alltournative Tours forays into the undeveloped Mexican wilderness. It’s the kind of tour that’s not advertised everywhere; you have to know what to ask for. Established only five years ago, Alltournative provides the kind of experiences you can feel good about. Working directly with the native people of isolated Mayan villages, Alltournative helps develop the marvelous areas surrounding the villages, creating jobs for the locals and providing a means of income. 

Pac Chen is only one of the villages to which Alltournative brings visitors. Located about a three hour drive from the center of Cancun, an early departure is necessary.

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As you get closer to Pac Chen, you’ll see other Mayan villages spread out along the bumpy road. Wooden huts line the road, and turkeys, dogs and pigs roam wild. Our guide points out a schoolhouse – one small pink building serving all the children from houses we had passed spread out along the highway. It’s a different kind of life.

I’m surprised how primitive the road to Pac Chen is once we turn off the main highway. But until recently, a road of any sort didn’t exist. The villagers take great pride in this road which allows vehicular access to Pac Chen. Before, the only way in was a long walk through the forest. The area surrounding Pac Chen is classified as a middle tropical forest, not quite a jungle. But for all intents and purposes, I felt like I was in the middle of the jungle, with not a sign of civilization around me. 

Arrival at the village is a welcome relief from the bumpy road. Tourists aren’t taken directly into the village itself; Alltournative respects the privacy of the people living there and a special hut has been set up for us. This is where we’re taken upon arrival to prepare for our day. There are outhouses behind the shed – but don’t expect running water.

Flushing here involves the sprinkling of wood chips and sawdust down the toilet. Several of the villagers also sell their artwork here – items for sale include handmade jewelry, textiles and woodwork. 

Setting off from the village, our guide, Patricia, along with one of the villagers, leads us on a well worn path through the forest. She stops every so often to point out interesting trees and plants. “Sometimes,” Patricia says,“you will see monkeys and birds. It depends on what nature wants to show us.” That day, unfortunately, nature kept its wildlife to itself. But it didn’t matter, there was plenty else to keep our minds and senses stimulated.

After about half an hour of walking over tree roots, leaf litter and lines of tiny black ants, Patricia stops us. On a makeshift wooden table sits a cooler of cold, purified water and reusable paper cups. In the heat of the forest, the cool water is extra refreshing. 

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After we have our fill, we climb a small hill to the first of our adventure activities for the day – a zip line. The single cable runs over a small body of water which is actually home to crocodiles. Stepping into my harness, I have to wonder if nature would keep her crocodiles to herself. The cable runs high over the water, but I still wouldn’t want to see any snapping jaws directly below myself as I flew through the air.

Once I’m hooked on, I simply sit down, turning my harness into a makeshift seat, and before I know it I’m flying through the forest. There is no sign of wildlife in the water and I land at the other side quite safely, almost wishing that I had in fact seen a crocodile.

The next activity, albeit one that made my heart race with excitement, fear and uncertainty, is one of the most stimulating and thrilling travel experiences I’ve ever had. Walking only a bit farther into the forest brings us to a railed hole in the ground, where another group of tourists peer downwards. Hesitantly, I walk over and have a peek at what awaits me. Wooden decks line a big opening in the ground, and all I can see are various figures hanging on ropes, seemingly suspended in mid-air. Below them, clear blue water twinkles in the sunlight sneaking in through two holes in the roof of the cave.

The double shafts of light pierce the water in such a way that they bring to mind eyes of a jaguar, and the cenote that lies within is appropriately called Jaguar Cenote.  At the bottom of a huge cave, the cenote, or sinkhole, is filled with twenty feet of rain water that has been filtered through limestone over thousands of years.

We’re still strapped into our harnesses and to rappel down into the cenote, we only need to be hooked up to a single thick rope. Patricia demonstrates how to hang on to the rope and let it move slowly through the hook. This simple action lowers you down the 13 meter drop to the water. It looks difficult, but once I’m sitting in my harness, gripping the rope, it’s quite straightforward. I keep my hand tucked under my bottom and let the rope out very slowly. It’s much easier than I thought, and the scenery is so impressive that I forget to be scared. 
Waiting at the bottom are two villagers from Pac Chen. They hold an inner tube that I sink into gratefully, and after I’m unhooked, I paddle slowly around the cenote. The water is somewhere between icy cold and refreshingly cold and I liberally splash my hot skin. I watch bats flying at the top of the cave, and small catfish swimming around my feet. Going up is even easier; I’m hooked on to the rope again, but this time, four men at the top work to pull me up. 

After a canoe ride on a lake near the village, we’re served a fresh, tasty, home-cooked Mayan lunch, cooked by three women from Pac Chen. A perfect end to a perfect adventure. 

Garrafon

Only a 30 minute boat ride from Cancun sits Isla Mujeres (Isle of Women). Even more spectacular turquoise waters greet you on the speedy trip over; the Caribbean’s clear waters dance and sparkle, and depending on its depth, the color of the water can be anything from dark green to the lightest of blues. The only thing better than looking at the water is actually being in it, and one of the best places to do this is Garrafon.

The nature park of the island, Garrafon offers so many exciting activities that an entire day here is necessary. First on our agenda is a walking tour of the park. Huge squawking parrots sit on tree branches, happy to pose for photos. Iguanas of all sizes dart across the paths and conceal themselves in the myriad of labeled plants and flowers. The paths eventually lead upwards to Punta Sur, the southern point of the island, where modern sculptures adorn the rocky, cactus covered ground. A stone temple dedicated to Ixchel, goddess of fertility, overlooks the sea.

One of Garrafon’s biggest attractions is snorkeling. The MesoAmerican Reef System, second only to the Great Barrier Reef, runs alongside Isla Mujeres and is part of a protected National Park. Snorkeling here guarantees repeated sightings of tropical fish. All snorkelers must wear lifejackets and stay out of the roped off areas, to ensure that the reef won’t be harmed. Simply touching the coral can prove extremely hazardous to its health.

Make sure you bring an underwater camera to Garrafon - there’s so much colorful life under the water that I used almost an entire roll. Schools of bright blue fish dart amongst the coral and a huge grouper swims right below me. I almost swam directly into a huge barracuda, its silver scales flashing in the sun’s rays. Angelfish, clown fish and brightly colored coral sway gently with the sea’s current..

Once I was sufficiently water logged, I decided it was time to try one of Garrafon’s land activities - the zip line. I get strapped into another harness and climb a small wooden tower. The first cable runs from here, over the edge of the island to another tower, where someone waits to catch you. It’s a quick and exhilarating ride.

The second zip line goes from the edge of the island to a wooden tower located in the water. It’s like flying over the Caribbean. I don’t know where to look – the panorama of the sea and Cancun in the distance is equally as wondrous as the clear water and sea life below me. Waiting on that tower for my last ride to the shore, I’m amazed at how many fish I can see from my place atop the tower. Although I’m at least 20 feet up, I can still see individual fish and even identify their color. I could have stayed there all day!

But there was much more to do. It was time to descend below the sea again, but in a way I had never experienced before. Sea Trek is unique way to explore the bottom of the sea without the need for scuba equipment or certification. And it’s easy; you climb down a ladder until you’re covered with water up to your shoulders. Then a helmet (think astronaut) is placed on your head. Pumped full of air from the surface, the helmet allows you to breathe while taking a walk around a section of the sea floor.

Although I’d been scuba diving many times, I wasn’t prepared for the excitement of being able to breathe underwater unencumbered by heavy tanks.  It’s such a wonderful sensation that I laughed out loud, which would have been impossible if I’d had a regulator in my mouth.

We climb down the ladder and stand on the sandy bottom, where the guide points out steel railings. Since the helmets are quite heavy and the currents on the sea floor can be strong, we have to walk slowly while continually hanging on to the railing. Even so, I can feel my body swaying with the undertow.

Once we get our bearings, the guide brings a water bottle out of his wet suit and opens it in front of our faces. Instantly, what seems like thousands of colorful tropical fish fill the water around us. Fish is all I can see. They swarm around us, bumping into my arms and legs and I’m able to reach out and touch them with my bare hands. I feel like a child who had been magically transported into Finding Nemo. Afterwards, we’re told that the bottle contains fish food.

As we stroll along, the guide stops and passes us various sea creatures to hold. The first is an exquisite fan coral, the second a fiery red sea cucumber soft as velvet. The third – a spiky sea urchin that I’m slightly hesitant to touch. When he places it in my hand, I cringe, but find that the spikes aren’t sharp at all. They slowly respond to the shape of my hand and move inward, like a suction cup, until I can turn my hand over without the urchin detaching. I can’t tell you how much I didn’t want to climb the ladder back to the real world.

Aquaworld

Located in the Hotel Zone, Aquaworld is the base for Cancun’s water activities and major day trips. They offer everything from boat rides and diving trips to fishing and snorkeling. We tried the Jungle Tour – a ride on wave runners through mangrove lined lagoons. Bumping over the gentle waves at high speeds was exhilarating, and the scenery couldn’t have been more spectacular. 

La Distileria

What better place to eat dinner than at a tequila distillery. With a boisterous atmosphere and every table packed, laughter flows freely. But forget everything you know about how to drink tequila. Here, they’ll teach you the true Mexican way to savor the drink. There’ll be no downing shots of the fiery liquid followed by lime and salt. At La Distileria, they serve tequila in small cactus shaped shot glasses – and the tequila is sipped slowly. 
All glasses of tequila are served with Sangrita. Made from fruit juice, tomato juice, Worcestershire Sauce, Tabasco Sauce and Grenadine, a sip of Sangrita follows a sip of tequila . If straight tequila is too much for you, try the strawberry Margarita. It might just be the best one you ever have. But there’s more to dinner than tequila…….the tortillas are delicious and come with a variety of sauced meats and vegetables, including cactus. 

The following is a list of articles that Dawnelle has written for the magazine:

To contact Dawnelle Click Here

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