| The driver
was a terrific tour guide. A well-spoken expatriate who adopted
Nicaragua as his home and place of business many years before, he was quick
to point out the resiliency of the populace; how they’d survived many a
natural disaster, revolutionary uprisings, and an extreme class distinction
weighted heavily on the poor. I gazed on either side at young mothers
and children, maybe complete families, existing in the doorways of their
one story, one-room homes; I say “existing” because I honestly have no
idea what they did; where were the businesses? What did they do for
work? Was there even any to be had? I saw old men with pushcarts
peddling a few bits of change for ice cream products and drinks I’d never
even heard of; bony stray dogs, near death on legs, aimlessly groped for
a scrap somewhere along the way. As dismayed as I became with what
I saw for how these people lived, I learned that their new government was
focused on reversing the fortunes of this troubled country. I certainly
hoped so.
Off the beaten
path were attractive, yet small towns with actual consumer-driven businesses,
like restaurants, bars, and gift shops. I saw a small sea town some twelve
blocks off the main road with pleasant gathering places; in the distance
there were magnificent volcanoes, some still active, which provided the
base for nutrient-rich soil for growing plentiful crops, and when we got
out to snag pictures overlooking the country’s biggest river, I momentarily
interacted with a few locals, including a little kid trying to pawn off
handmade jewelry I might find for a buck at the local flea market in NY.
It didn’t matter, I bought it anyway… cost me ten bucks for two… and directions
to the rest room.
Our trip
toward Tola was eventful in that the agent knew all of the most scenic
routes to take the further we moved from Managua and the outstretched fingers
for towns that extended southward. Long stretches of country
accompanied our journey through the jungle toward the shore. On either
side the proximity of poverty was replaced by endless tropical landscape
that an hour before was imperceptible. It was a breeding ground for
natural resource with an endless landmass lent to a wealth of agriculture.
Save for the occasional industrial uprising, it was absolute beauty in
its purest form, from symmetrical volcanic mounds to lush foliage.
It was not difficult to see the potential for growth in this country –
both agriculturally, and economically. Once the governmental infrastructure
and Central American unionizing takes full effect, a thriving exportation
and the realization of a tourism industry could insure not only the “discovery”
of Nicaragua, but for its many inhabitants, the necessary jobs and potential
for much needed improvements in their immediate surroundings.
Rancho Santana
was a relatively new development that occupied 1700 acres in and around
the Pacific shoreline of Tola, Nicaragua, near the town of Rivas – a spec
of dirt-sized marking on the map. We had to put the four wheel
drive to the test to get there from the main road as we turned and entered
some twelve miles of dirt paths and slippery puddles caused from the current
rainy season that Bo and Luke Duke themselves would’ve thought twice about
driving had their on-camera exploits not demanded it. We went up,
down, left, and right, dodging farm animals and fellow four-wheelers, before
turning in a majestic-looking entryway that led a mile stretch of flat
road directly toward a low lying beach front that was otherwise impenetrable
five minutes and a mountainous region earlier. It was like going
from night to day in a matter of seconds – Hazzard County to Hilton Head,
and a potential home buying opportunity only minutes by foot from the beach.
We had finally arrived to the still semi-private, owners and renters-only
beachfront community piercing through rolling hills with cliffside views.
Rancho Santana was an oasis in the middle of nowhere that demanded discovery…
and luckily for me, I was still among the earliest surveyors.
Upon arriving
at the guest clubhouse, making my greetings, and later unpacking my bags,
I was ready to be sold on the benefits of becoming a homeowner there. Of
course the culture shock was still fresh in my mind from the drive out,
but another surprise was in store upon entering my guest room. Still smarting
from the appalling living conditions I witnessed since leaving Managua,
I was none too quick to process the fact that we had moved into a tropical
jungle-like setting and all of the life forms that go with it. Such involves
the appearance of pinky-sized four-legged gremlins that chirp and hide
behind wall-mounted air conditioning units when weary travelers arrive
to unpack their bags and downshift their thought-process for a moment.
I was in no mood for sharing space with creepy critters and flying pests,
but I will admit, though it took awhile, these lizard-like creatures known,
as Geckos, were somewhat bearable… even cute. Though neither of the two
I spotted on my wall had any real intention of establishing dialogue or
selling insurance, I satisfied myself to try to catch one for an up close
examination. No chance. They’re too fast and flexible and have
little interest in human interaction. Somewhat insulted, I let them
to their own device and peppered the rest of the room with Off to keep
the sand flies and mosquitoes at bay.
The clubhouse
stood in a central location at RS where I would meet the property manager
with whom I had corresponded a number of times previously, and an all-Nicaraguan
house staff greeted me and made me feel welcome. The layout of the clubhouse
was spacious and well decorated with beautiful art and furnishings of the
tropics. This was certainly no Marriott, but it more than served the purpose
for the private community it was meant to center. It was a beautifully
crafted building with an outdoor patio, pool, and strategically planted
palms preceding the rocky beach. The weather was rainy, hot, and humid,
which I later learned was consistent with their “winter” season following
May, and thus the scarcity of other tourists for that week.
We privately
toured the upcoming new beach homes known as “casitas” as well as
the surrounding areas where other people had already purchased plots of
land or built palatial houses overlooking the Pacific. I had my doubts
about the location at first, and the fact that most of the area was still
relatively deserted, but they would soon subside along with the culture
shock I felt as I pondered the future for this slowly developing beachfront
paradise. I needed a little time to soak it all in, learn more about local
culture, and gain firsthand knowledge from those who’ve been there, done
that, still live there, and have invested hundreds of thousands more than
I was even hinting at.
This was definitely
not Cancun, but was never projected to be. The future plans, as outlined
by management, and provided by the developers, showed a number of other
lots being plotted and sold, and a number of new amenities planned for
the future, including a golf course, bar, and medical center. The
hurdle for me was to step away from the – there and then – impulse, and
reaffirm my initial intentions of buying for the long term investment potential.
Rancho Santana was not somewhere I wanted to live today, but my projected
goals remained unchanged – an appreciable annual return on investment,
potential for rental income, and at the least, a charming villa-like two-bedroom
home for holiday trips and off-peak getaways in a serene location where
people were friendly, family oriented and pleasant.
I came away
with a good feeling from my short, but informative trip to Nicaragua.
Yes, I was sold on the potential of Rancho Santana, but felt nearly ashamed
that I could feel pity for the many poor people on the one hand, while
on the other, worry about my own self-gain as an actual foreigner in their
country. I understand the necessity for foreign investment for the betterment
of Nicaraguan economy, and this helps me rationalize what I would be getting
involved with. To what extent this holds true is something I aim to explore
further on my next trip down there.
Though my interaction
with the locals was limited, I learned from the RS staff members and expatriates
that Nicaraguans are proud and family oriented. Do people mind being poor?
Do they even realize what they’re missing comparative to first world capitalist
dominance? Probably not. They seemed to be at peace with their simple
lives, and put more emphasis on familial, if old fashioned, values than
any American-born like myself could conceive of.
I was pleased
with my Nicaraguan experience and satisfied with my decision to buy.
I will plan to return in another year to close on my new casita. Afterwards,
I will spend some time exploring the many cities and make like an actual
tourist during one of the country’s more festive seasons. There is plenty
more to explore throughout the entire country; for this trip, I barely
scratched the surface. So why Nicaragua? Because the people are welcoming
of Americans and seem to remain as unspoiled as the landscape they inhabit.
That’s a refreshing change from hustle and bustle of the big city’s daily
grind. It’s a nice place to invest, whether such includes free time or
extra funds, and even nicer to visit. It will be very interesting
to watch the developments unfold in this yet to be discovered country. |