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Tango-ing Down Under
Tango In New Zealand
by Candy Green
On the #28 bus from Christchurch to my home in Lyttelton I sat next to an attractive “older woman.” Her long white hair was piled up on her head. Her complexion was clear, her eyes bright.  Her figure was trim. She carried a back pack. She might have been in her 60s, but she looked great. For some providential reason, I’m sure, we ended up sitting next to each other. 

I had been a widow for only three months. Now, alone, in my adopted country, New Zealand, I had questions. How was I going to live out the rest of my life in this new land? How did other women do it here? Who seemed foolish? Who seemed wise? Who was doing it best? I was looking for role models.

Elizabeth appealed to me.

She had come down from Nelson for the weekend and was staying at a backbackers in the city. The night before she had been at a Milonga, she told me, the name for a kind of Tango party where tanguerros and tanguerras, or male and female dancers, gather. 

I was surprised to hear she was going to The Door Café in Lyttelton. The Door is a Christian café on London Street in between a Fish and Chips shop and the Lava Bar. Oh, I thought, those alternative Christians - they will open their doors to anything, even Tango, to bring the lost souls in! They do this the first and third Sundays of every month.

Elizabeth was arriving in Lyttelton a couple hours before Tango started, so I invited her up to see my views. While we ate crackers with havarti cheese and tomato slices dashed with chilli sauce, she told me about the impact Tango had had on her life. She, too, was a widow, but under different circumstances.

Her husband had not been faithful and they were separated when he died.

Being involved with Tango was helping to heal her, she said. She was learning about trust. My impressions of the Tango were so mixed at this point - wasn’t it that degenerate dance? - I’m sure I’ve forgotten much of what she said, but I do remember her telling me her latest revelation about herself. (Even the idea that she could be learning something about herself through dance was a new way of thinking for me.)

It seems until then she had been unable to relax and trust. Letting herself draw close to her partner in an embrace, in particular letting a part of her head be positioned near her partner’s had been impossible. I remember thinking that as much as I loved to dance I could never do something like that in the arms of someone other than my husband.

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And, of course, he was no longer available. However, for an old hippie like me, the grieving process has been a bit of an “acid trip.” 

Tom Wolfe has asked where all the writing from my generation is. The joke answer is that we were so stoned we can’t remember! But, for those who never were misguided enough to indulge, when LSD is ingested, it simply works its way through the system like anything else: food, beverages, herbs, whatever. On the acid-induced journey, of course, the mind and its perceptions are affected most.

Any music, words, happenings are factored in as almost Divine; hence, Timothy Leary’s advice that by dropping acid we could “see God.” Years later, Leary’s remains now circle the planet…

But, the grieving state, it turns out, can be compared to an LSD trip. At least in my mind! After the initial hit - the shock of losing someone, in this case - every event, person, especially in the first year, plays a part.In my new solo journey, each person, each event has seemed hyper-significant. I receive each new day as a gift, knowing that someone you love can be there one minute and gone from this world the next. 

I have had to trust that Someone wiser than I am is guiding me. But what did Elizabeth’s presence in my life - and her telling me about Tango - mean?

I have always loved to dance, even doing choreography for stage productions at various times.

But my husband, Tom, was a musician, not a dancer. And the times we danced were rare: once at a college thing when we were getting to know each other, at our oldest daughter’s wedding five and a half years ago after we had arrived in New Zealand two years previous. And the last time, six months before Tom died, at our son’s wedding.

That’s it. We were married for 34 years and held each other in the embrace of dance only three times.

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About a week before Tom went into hospital there was an article in the paper saying men who dance are better lovers. Later on that day, he said to me, “We should start dancing.” This from a man who was on a waiting list for heart valve surgery! I laughed and said, “I read that article too. You did just fine at Joe’s wedding. I think we danced better than we ever have.” I remember, with pleasure, our bellies touching like the middle-aged couple we never quite believed we had become.

Then, just a few days later, outside a room I was sitting in, he lifted up his voice and said, “I know what is going to happen. You are going to lose weight and - ” He didn’t finish. I knew he was thinking about his death. What was he going to say I wondered? (Someone told me it is probably good he didn’t finish the sentence because it leaves the future open to me.) 

During the fifteen years Tom was declining in health, I had comforted myself with food. And gained “heaps” (as we say in New Zealand) of weight. It wasn’t his fault; it was the unhealthy way I coped. It was safer, I rationalized, than worrying about being a widow with four small children and having to cast my eyes around for someone new. 

But those were only fears and instead Tom was able to experience his most productive years in the States, see our children grow up and us settled in New Zealand. It was a difficult marriage at times, but it was a marriage and the passion for each other never left. As a good friend tells me, You made it. You endured ‘til death parted you.

However, while Tom was living, seeing me grow OUT had grieved him terribly. He was worried about my health. The week he was on life support following his surgery, I began losing weight. And it has continued. After I had lost about 30 pounds a friend told me it was time to go to the gym. It was time to get toned, said - it would take a while, but I would begin to actually feel muscle groups being worked one fine day. And so it has been.

But, at the time I met Elizabeth, in the early stages of weight loss and before the gym, I could not see myself doing the Tango. 

So, how did it happen?

One sunny winter Sunday about three months ago, I drifted back into Lyttelton and down London Street, noticing that the sign outside The Door announced it was Tango Sunday, 3-5PM. It was 3PM. I drove the car up the hill to my house, parked and walked right back down into town and through the doors into The Door.

I ordered a decaf mocha (What else for someone not yet old enough to drink coffee?) and tentatively made an entrance into a wooden-floored room cleared for dancing. People sat on couches or in chairs on the edges of the room. I pulled a small table over so there would be a place for my mocha when it arrived and looked around. Over on the other side of the room were two women who had arrived just ahead of me. I motioned for them to come and join me at the little table. They did. Marjie and her friend were there for the same reason I was: curiosity and, while we might not want to admit it, loneliness.

What did we see? Couples moving in a counter-clockwise movement around the room, some in embraces closer than others. No chatter. Intense expressions. In between dances some couples would stand and wait for another song. Others when a song ended would say Thank You to each other and return to their seats. No one seemed offended. No one seemed a wall flower. Chatter was for the seated. Congenial. It seemed perfectly fine for us to be there. Smiles welcomed us.

What did we hear? The beautiful music of Tango, communicated in a variety of beats: thumping and throbbing, feet almost stomping to faster tempos; sweeping and plaintive, precise and calculating in slower ones; instruments and bodies at once on the offense, now the defense. Without drums. Piano. Violins. What sounded like an accordion. A few bird calls. Intensely human. 

What did I feel? I felt like I was ready for lessons. Marjie was too. She and I have been Tango friends ever since. Tango lessons are given all over the city of Christchurch on many nights of the week. Once you start going to the lessons and people know you know the basics, you will always have someone to dance with, male or female.

For $10 Marjie and I get an hour of instruction from Aki, a beautiful young architect from Turkey, whose body seems made for Tango and Rima, a graceful and elegant Kiwi photographer. The lessons are upstairs in a unique blue building on a corner of Tuam Street near the Polytech and across from a McDonald’s. They are also given at the Deaf Society on Armagh Street.

What have I learned? Much more than how to Tango.

At its roots, the Tango (http://www.todotango.com/english/main.html , http://nfo.net/usa/tango.html ) is the dance of immigrants, for those who are strangers in a strange land, alienated, lost and lonely. No wonder there is an international revival of the dance happening! The intensity of the dance comes from this connection with the music and our personal experience. 

I have found the society of Tango - and, yes, there is a society - to be a safe place socially. It is that way in Christchurch and from websites I have explored it seems to be that way around the world. There is an etiquette to be learned (http://www.inscenes.com/etiquette.htm) and a learning curve.

Most thrilling of all for me, initially, was learning about being a partner in a male and female relationship. While you will see females dancing with females, and sometimes when lessons are given males will take the female part just to know how it feels to be in that situation, the tango is a dance of life best portrayed by males and females as partners.

This year of loss has involved thoughts of what might have been, how I could have been a better marriage partner…but, it takes two to Tango!

In Tango it is the man who leads, basically walking in a forward motion around the room. He is the one who looks ahead, keeping watch for the danger of colliding with other bodies. The female walks backwards, in trust. She must keep her chest—or heart—oriented to his. What is the danger if she doesn’t? She will lose her balance. And no one wants to fall over on the dance floor. Balance. Working together. Having a vision of the way it’s supposed to be.

Some of Tom’s and my best friends over the years was a circus couple, Tino and Olinka Wallenda-Zoppe. Tino is the grandson of Karl Wallenda(http://www.freep.com/news/local/qfly4.htm). One of their high wire acts involved Tino riding on a bicycle from one side of the arena to the other. One of his daughters stood on his shoulders while his wife hung below from a trapeze attached to the bicycle! 

Tino would pedal slowly out to the middle of the wire and stop, the daughter on his shoulders, the wife seated on the trapeze below. Then the wife would begin to move. She would turn herself upside down on the trapeze, position herself on her head, spread eagle her legs and there they would be for all the world to see. (I have seen them do this rain or shine, day and night.) At that point, Tino would give a humorous little talk about how what we saw above our heads was like marriage and family life. Balance. Working together. Getting and communicating the picture.

The etiquette of Tango has been problematic for me. It is so accepting and forgiving. The fact that everyone was once a beginner is very real. Once after a lesson, during the social time following, I was dancing with Aki, my teacher. I light-heartedly mentioned one man who had been described as a “rude dancer” because of the jerky way he moved his partners. I didn’t think I was being negative, but she said, Well, we just forgive them, don’t we? So gracious.

Tango society is not one of judgement. It is not always that way in life or in our hearts, but it is the way it should be. How easy it is to judge each other or get into requiring perfection, comparing. It is not polite in Tango society. We were all once beginners. The pain of life should help to temper any tendency to judgement. This is at the heart of Tango.

Last month I went to my first Milonga at the Kaiapoi Working Men’s Club, about 45 minutes outside of Christchurch. Marjie and I were like a couple of teens getting ready for a prom. A free lesson for beginners was given in the first hour. Alberto and Natalia, Argentineans, who now live in Melbourne, taught us the Ocho, the Sandwich and other basics. We were given instructions and practiced the steps in a circle with one partner. A song was played and we moved from one partner to another to practice the steps.

The variety is good. You learn from everyone. As we do in life. 

People came from as far away as Timaru, Ashburton and the West Coast. I got my picture in the paper. The reporter, who wrote the article, mistakenly thought we were all there in a strange kind of speed dating exercise. Not so. The Tango takes so much concentration and discipline that, despite how it may appear, thoughts of “making whoopee” could only happen in dreams! 

And guess who was there? Elizabeth! I didn’t seek her out because I wasn’t sure it was her, but when I went to The Door on Sunday, I knew it was. I could see she was a good partner to dance with. Bold, too. If she wanted to dance with someone, she didn’t wait to be asked. Her choices were happy to dance with her, young or old. Another year and she has set the bar high!

What do I see week after week? What do I see when I watch the dancers weave around a room? It is the dance of life passing me. It is a dance for the young and the old. Grandparents glide. Years of familiarity with each others bodies lends them a particular intimacy. Their grandson plays at my feet while Nana and Poppa embrace. It’s good.

There on an outer edge of the circle, a couple expertly twists and turns - she’s Argentinean, on the tips of her toes in the softest of shoes. He’s a Kiwi. What is their story, I wonder?

Two sisters who share a home and the husband of one as their practice partner - they have been tango-ing just over a year - show the expertise that comes from constant practice. 

A tall thin couple, mainstays of the scene, move around the room. They will soon relocate to Buenos Aires: they have realized they can do work from a homebase in Argentina and Tango to their hearts’ content. They will be missed, but tanguerros and tanguerras make pilgrimages to Argentina and plans are in the works.

I am getting to know these people. Marjie and I no longer refer to individuals as Speedy or Tall Man or the Kaiser…they are human beings. They have names. And we have all been brought together by something named Tango.

Margie and I have an open invitation to Tango in Nelson. There is a Milonga in Geraldine in a couple of weeks. The working artist, who owns the building where lessons are given on Wednesday nights, steers Marjie past me. I can see her confidence growing.

An announcement is made that the room will be used for a New Year’s Eve Milonga. No charge. 

Perhaps Elizabeth will be there.

The following are the previous articles that Candy has written about New Zealand for the magazine:

To contact Candy Click Here

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