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What is the square area of Paradise? In so many of the world’s beauty spots there is an annoying city or freeway that degrades the view. There are a few still pristine places, but the crush of people is so heavy, you are always surrounded. There is noise. There is car exhaust. There is...Patagonia to escape to. San Carlos de Bariloche is perched above the lovely Nahuel Huapi Lake with brazos(arms) stretching off as far as the imagination can wander. El Bolson a couple of hours south doesn’t have the downtown lake but just turn to the west and the massive wall of rock rises thousands of feet above you. Mountains completely encircle the town but the ‘wall’ draws your eye and you feel like an ant. Most people just gasp as the clouds pull back and you see the true height of the peaks. A few minutes drive south and across the Rio Negro Province border, and into Chubut Province, there is Lago Puelo spread before an array of snowy peaks. From Lago Puelo north to Bariloche, then on to Villa la Angostura and finally to San Martin de Los Andes: my Paradise. When the crowds come, the exits are everywhere. There is the Lake or you can travel deeper in as pavement turns to gravel, then to dirt, and buildings begin to disappear among the trees.

Doug up on Cerro Otto

I climbed off the bus in Traful, on the way to San Martin from Bariloche, and even though the driver said “cinco minutos. No mas” I walked to the Traful river less than a hundred yards away. (Imagine gorgeous riverfront property, with an incredible view, resort area written all over it, being used as a bus/gas station) A fellow passenger walked with me and as I put my hand in the ice cold water he said to me "up the river around the bend a short way is Ted Turners Ranch". 

I watch the daily reports of temperature and wind. San Martin de Los Andes is about five degrees warmer than Bariloche. El Bolson has almost no wind and varies from a little warmer to a little cooler than Bariloche. Bolson is further south, which should equal cooler but is so much (500 meters) lower than Bariloche that it is often a bit warmer. And you just may need Ted Turner's money to buy a home in Villa la Angostura (pronounced Vee-zha long-is-tour-ah) although temperatures and wind seem the same as Bariloche.

The Lake country of Argentina is dominated by a mix of truly awesome mountains, and intensely beautiful lakes. Sprinkle in a few graceful volcanos and you have a wild masterpiece outside your windows. No matter which side of which lake you find yourself on, the colors will surprise you. The sky is childhood-blue and the water is so clear you can easily pick out stones on the bottom even from the top of the surrounding ridges. The tap water is safe and drinkable. I am told - promised actually - that you can drink directly from lakes and rivers. I haven’t, yet. I keep thinking about Nahuelito the occasionally seen Loch Ness type Lake Monster, hiding in giant Nahuel Huapi Lake. I keep wondering what he is doing out there, in the water. Is he alone?

Patagonia is huge but the population is still small. Bariloche has everything; from discos to tango. If you are young at heart (or single), world class skiing (June, July & August) a Casino and a stunning view of the lake and mountains. Mitre street will provide enough shopping for recreational to ‘major league’ shoppers. The chocolates, liquers, and jams are revered all over Europe. Rapa Nui Chocolates are made on site and the aromas floating out on the street are hypnotic. People follow their noses to the door and are offered a sample converting pedestrians into customers instantly. Americans with no genetic resistance to dulce de leche (milk caramel) taste this treat covered in chocolate and feel like they have discovered one of the elements of life. I don’t eat candy and I was converted. The ice cream is so good people are eating it in the mornings on cold days.

Real Estate bargains are more likely to be found in the Bariloche area (150,000 people.) or El Bolson (30,000 people) than in San Martin (30,000 people.) or Villa la Angostura. 

So how do you make this incredible place your home? How do you deal with the problems people have in the real world? Immigracion is not difficult, if you are fluent, or if you have someone help you with the Castellano Spanish terms, so that you understand what is necessary. Info (in Spanish) is available at www.migraciones.gov.ar .

Health insurance called “prepagado” is available at local hospitals and clinics. You need to make sure, if you have a special condition where the best care is available because this type of insurance doesn’t travel. You have to be treated at the place you pay your payments. That being said if your leg falls off they are responsible for sticking it back on with no extra payments. There is a national plan that actually covers travelers in Chile, Brazil, Uruguay, Paraguay, as well as Argentina. I was quoted at under 50usd monthly for my family in the local plan, and under a 100usd for the “Mercosur”(international) plan. Prescription drugs are NOT covered, but are a fraction of USA prices. Some ‘ ‘experimental’ drugs (like tamoxifen or irumidex) are about the same as USA prices. My prescriptions were reduced by over 50%.
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Bariloche waterfront

Doug just south of El Bolson

Housing is going to cost you a bit more in San Martin de Los Andes with little or no housing below $85,000usd. Your method of house-hunting will be different as well because the Real Estate Agencies (Inmobiliarias) are a little discouraging. You will have to practice your Spanish and ask people that you meet in the wonderful city center park, or at the handicrafts market by the taxi stand if they know of houses for sale or rent. The higher prices reflects the California flavor of this beautiful little town and the lower population. Shoppers soon discover a wider range of products than you would find in a typical small town in tne U.S.

El Bolson has inexpensive real estate, in a rural, agricultural flavored town. Americans came here in the 70’s and started/joined and strengthened an organic movement. Fruit grown here is excellent and varied (try guindos - a cherry type fruit that makes great jam). Bolson has a large artist community and they show their handicrafts at Saturday fairs. They seem oddly obsessed with elves and gnomes. Top off every visit to the fair with one of Tom’s waffles complete with jam and crème; they are extremely good (Even worth a trip in the rain). Bolson is too laid back for some people, but a Casino is coming as is a ski resort, civilization is on the way, and this town of 30-40 thousand will double in ten years (some say three years). You probably can’t buy a property that doesn’t have a fierce view of the wall of mountains to the west, and in fact the town is surrounded by mountains, thus the Name “El Bolson” - ‘the purse’. Go and spend some time and you may find Bolson suits you very well. Houses can be as low as 35000usd with a little land. 

So, what is the square area of Paradise? I’ll have to let you know in a few years.

The following is the first article that Doug wrote for the magazine:

Living In San Carlos de Bariloche, Argentina ~ Real Estate And Life In Bariloche

To contact Doug Click Here
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Lake Nahuel Huapi

Doug's wife, Brandi, by Lago Puelo

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