Living
In San Carlos de Bariloche, Argentina
Real Estate And Life In Bariloche ~ by Douglas Harris
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guess the memory-legend-true myth of our trip to Bariloche will always
be “Let’s sell everything and live here” this after about an hour looking
out over Lake Nahuel Huapi. Snowy peaks surround this lake of indescribable
blue. The water so pure you could drink it straight with no harm. The air
is so clean, it recalls a kind of genetic memory of a time when pristine
actually described something in your life. We, in the USA, live in a world
of varying shades of gray. The ’well-to-do’ exist in the lighter shades
(of gray), but the rest of us move in a darker world. We buy a Quadra filter
for the air, a Brita for the water, condoms to make love, we just try to
survive to “Miller Time”.
Now, here was
San Carlos de Bariloche and the rules had changed. I couldn’t have been
more stunned if Jesus Himself came walking across the water. Mi “Suegra”
(mom-in-law) had just said she was willing to sell everything and move
to a country where they didn’t even speak English.
My wife Brandi
and I had come to this place knowing we could fall in love with the beautiful
scenery, hoping everything else would be good as well. But Donna, my “Suegra”
hadn’t even looked at the pictures on the internet. She had come with us
to see some place new, (probably wishing in her heart we had wanted to
go to Italy instead). But we had found a “Sistine Chapel” done a little
more directly by God and we will never be the same. The odd thing about
beauty is, that it is impossible to describe, photograph, paint or fake.
You can only experience it. |
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House
in Arrayanes National Park near Bariloche
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I have always
had a problem, I call it: "everyone likes to go the circus, but everyone
also likes to go home after the circus". But not me. I was looking for
an impossible combination of agendas, wants and needs. Some things are
aesthetics - like the sunset by Lago Nahuel Huapi. Other things are necessities
like edible food, potable water, and acceptance by the people of the new
world you want to enter. I had been in Bariloche for a couple of hours
and had fallen completely in love with a vista, unless there were human
sacrifices taking place here, I was going to stay. So now it was time to
check out the ‘locals’...
The first hurdle
to getting to know the people of Argentina, of course is Spanish. Not just
any Spanish. In Argentina they speak a ‘black-belt’ Spanish called Castellano.
I don’t have much problem with speaking English - when it comes to
English, I have it sprawled in the dust, my knee on it’s chest. Spanish
however, is another matter; I’m rolling towards the cliff, my hand on my
face trying to remember the word for ‘Help’. So Spanish can be difficult.
However, to my surprise learning Spanish in Bariloche turned out to be
pretty easy. Years of ‘grits’ fed “americanos” saying “Beyoon-ass Dee-ass
had led the entire country of Argentina to adopt “Buen Dia. Simple. Easy.
Covers the bases, and sells the handicrafts. My Spanish being from Mexico
and not the local brand, didn’t seem to be any problem. Bored shop workers
perked up with the most simple good manners; Que Tal? (how’s it going?)
Como Estas? (How are you?). They became interested and human contact was
made. Strange. To test this new discovery, I began to speak to people in
the street, and fellow shoppers in the stores. Even with my terrible Spanish,
people talked with me, asked questions, laughed at my commentary, and made
me feel a human comfort which has been absent from my USA living experience
for years. People over-hearing the conversations entered in with comments
and ready, easy laughter, followed by my wife dragging me away to complete
our ‘pre-ordained’ shopping ‘mission’. Days later people - no longer strangers
- would smile and wave. What was going on here?
We rode the
cable car to the top of ‘Cerro Otto’ and ate a bad lunch in the rotating
restaurant. We walked off lunch looking at Michaelangelo art in a striking
showroom, complete with a full sized “David”. We sampled chocolate liquor
and exchanged taking photos with Argentine tourists. But the 800 pound
gorilla - the view - is so distracting, conversations fade in mid-sentence.
You find yourself staring...and try to keep your mouth closed. The boat
trip to Isla Victoria takes you a little further from your routine and
provides a new perspective on the magnificent Andes. As folks often do
we compared this experience with others we had had but after a few moments
we realized there were no “comparables”. Bariloche has Sequoias - something
I miss from California - I guess I am a ‘tree-hugger’. There are hundreds
of day trips you can take within a hundred miles of Bariloche. All of them
look like a great way to spend the day. We ran out of time.
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We were beginning
to look for property. We were talking to immigration. This had moved past
being ‘puppy-love’ and we were getting serious. We took quick trips to
El Bolson, to Lago Puelo, then North to San Martin de Los Andes. We had
found the area where we wanted to live, now we were looking to make sure
that Bariloche was the place we were going to buy a home. We loved Cabanas
Nosotros just south of El Bolson in the community of Lago Puelo. San Martin
was great also, but the energy and shocking Beauty of Bariloche was going
to be our new home.
Real Estate
In The San Carlos de Bariloche Region
There are at
least 13 Inmobiliarias (Real Estate Companies) listed in SISTEMA
INMOBILIARIO which is a multiple listing type organization. A foreigner
trying to buy property through any one of these companies is probably safe
from fraud. At least this was the opinion of the bankers and lawyers we
spoke to. Spend some time getting to know people and someone will recommend
an agency. Hire a lawyer to check every detail. There is no “escrow” type
service. A Notary called an “Escribano” will do the checking and verification
of true title, back taxes, exact boundaries etc. I had two Escribanos highly
recommended to me and there doesn’t seem to be a problem having the final
paperwork double-checked. The Escribano is a government functionary that
finalizes the deal. When they say the deal is done your name is recorded
on the deed and you no longer need to worry about ‘silent partners’ or
‘hidden liens’. This being said “Exercise every bit of due diligence” you
can. Check Every Corner and make sure your house is on the lot you are
buying. Some beautiful 2-3-4 bedroom houses come on undivided lots - this
means two (or more) houses on one lot. If you don’t speak Spanish, it is
not too difficult to find someone (a third party) who can translate for
you, so that you understand what and where you are buying. You can always
(after May 10, 05) call us - we have legal resources and real estate professionals
that can assure your peace of mind.
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Countryside
near San Carlos de Bariloche
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The system is
different from the States but you are still dealing with licensed professionals
in a ‘first world country’. And the deals will make your mouth water. Exposed
beams, huge windows with tremendous views of the lake and or the mountains,
two floors, beautiful landscaping, for less than a $100,000, and many for
less than 50,000. Bariloche is a World Class skiing capital. The months
of June, July, August and into September, hotel rooms are difficult to
get. Hotels for a hundred miles around are booked solid. The tourist bureau
is calling private homes for rooms to rent. This means that if you don’t
like winter you can arrange to rent out your home during those months and
make a substantial income. December through February is national camping
season and rooms are jammed once again. Since you are likely to have 1-3
extra bedrooms because your dollars buy so much space, renting the unused
bedrooms can make you a tidy income for very little bother. As the main
part of the tourist horde are either Argentineans or Europeans, you make
look forward to these seasons every year when you will meet new friends
or see the same guests year after year. $60,000 can buy you a marvelous
2-3-4 bedroom house that can generate income. $150-350,000 can buy a small
hotel, hosteria, or apartment complex that caters to tourists that want
either day-rentals or weekly-rentals. There are larger places, of course,
ranging into the millions of dollars, but someone selling their home in
the USA can find in Argentina a place that is very comfortable, with a
great view, and income potential, with money left over.
To contact
Doug Click Here
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