I
guess the memory-legend-true myth of our trip to Bariloche will always
be “Let’s sell everything and live here” this after about an hour looking
out over Lake Nahuel Huapi. Snowy peaks surround this lake of indescribable
blue. The water so pure you could drink it straight with no harm. The air
is so clean, it recalls a kind of genetic memory of a time when pristine
actually described something in your life. We, in the USA, live in a world
of varying shades of gray. The ’well-to-do’ exist in the lighter shades
(of gray), but the rest of us move in a darker world. We buy a Quadra filter
for the air, a Brita for the water, condoms to make love, we just try to
survive to “Miller Time”. Now, here was San Carlos de Bariloche and the
rules had changed.
Mi
“Suegra” (mom-in-law) had just said she was willing to sell everything
and move to a country where they didn’t even speak English. My wife Brandi
and I had come to this place knowing we could fall in love with the beautiful
scenery, hoping everything else would be good as well. But Donna, my “Suegra”
hadn’t even looked at the pictures on the internet. She had come with us
to see some place new, (probably wishing in her heart we had wanted to
go to Italy instead). But we had found a “Sistine Chapel” done a little
more directly by God and we will never be the same. The odd thing about
beauty is, that it is impossible to describe, photograph, paint or fake.
You can only experience it.
I have always had a problem, I call
it: "everyone likes to go the circus, but everyone also likes to go home
after the circus". But not me. I was looking for an impossible combination
of agendas, wants and needs. Some things are aesthetics - like the sunset
by Lago Nahuel Huapi. Other things are necessities like edible food, potable
water, and acceptance by the people of the new world you want to enter.
I had been in Bariloche for a couple of hours and had fallen completely
in love with a vista, unless there were human sacrifices taking place here,
I was going to stay. So now it was time to check out the ‘locals’... The
first hurdle to getting to know the people of Argentina, of course is Spanish.
Not
just any Spanish. In Argentina they speak a ‘black-belt’ Spanish called
Castellano. I don’t have much problem with speaking English - when
it comes to English, I have it sprawled in the dust, my knee on it’s chest.
Spanish however, is another matter; I’m rolling towards the cliff, my hand
on my face trying to remember the word for ‘Help’. So Spanish can be difficult.
However, to my surprise learning Spanish in Bariloche turned out to be
pretty easy. Years of ‘grits’ fed “americanos” saying “Beyoon-ass Dee-ass”
had led the entire country of Argentina to adopt “Buen Dia”. Simple. Easy.
Covers the bases, and sells the handicrafts.
My Spanish being from Mexico and
not the local brand, didn’t seem to be any problem. Bored shop workers
perked up with the most simple good manners; Que Tal? (how’s it going?)
Como Estas? (How are you?). They became interested and human contact was
made. Strange. To test this new discovery, I began to speak to people in
the street, and fellow shoppers in the stores. Even with my terrible
Spanish, people talked with me, asked questions, laughed at my commentary,
and made me feel a human comfort which has been absent from my USA living
experience for years. People over-hearing the conversations entered in
with comments and ready, easy laughter, followed by my wife dragging me
away to complete our ‘pre-ordained’ shopping ‘mission’.
Days
later people - no longer strangers - would smile and wave. What was going
on here?
We rode the cable car to the top
of ‘Cerro Otto’ and ate a bad lunch in the rotating restaurant. We walked
off lunch looking at Michaelangelo art in a striking showroom, complete
with a full sized “David”. We sampled chocolate liquor and exchanged taking
photos with Argentine tourists. But the 800 pound gorilla - the view -
is so distracting, conversations fade in mid-sentence. You find yourself
staring... and try to keep your mouth closed. The boat trip to Isla Victoria
takes you a little further from your routine and provides a new perspective
on the magnificent Andes. As folks often do we compared this experience
with others we had had but after a few moments we realized there were no
“comparables”. Bariloche has Sequoias - something I miss from California
- I guess I am a ‘tree-hugger’.
There are hundreds of day trips you
can take within a hundred miles of Bariloche. All of them look like
a great way to spend the day. We ran out of time. We were beginning to
look for property. We were talking to immigration. This had moved past
being ‘puppy-love’ and we were getting serious. We took quick trips to
El Bolson, to Lago Puelo, then North to San Martin de Los Andes. We had
found the area where we wanted to live, now we were looking to make sure
that Bariloche was the place we were going to buy a home. We loved Cabanas
Nosotros just south of El Bolson in the community of Lago Puelo. San Martin
was great also, but the energy and shocking Beauty of Bariloche was going
to be our new home.
Real Estate In The San Carlos
de Bariloche Region
There are at least 13 Inmobiliarias
(Real Estate Companies) listed in SISTEMA INMOBILIARIO which is a
multiple listing type organization.
A foreigner trying to buy property
through any one of these companies is probably safe from fraud. At least
this was the opinion of the bankers and lawyers we spoke to. Spend some
time getting to know people and someone will recommend an agency. Hire
a lawyer to check every detail. There is no “escrow” type service. A Notary
called an “Escribano” will do the checking and verification of true title,
back taxes, exact boundaries etc. I had two Escribanos highly recommended
to me and there doesn’t seem to be a problem having the final paperwork
double-checked. The Escribano is a government functionary that finalizes
the deal. When they say the deal is done your name is recorded on the deed
and you no longer need to worry about ‘silent partners’ or ‘hidden liens’.
This being said “Exercise every bit of due diligence” you can. Check Every
Corner and make sure your house is on the lot you are buying. Some beautiful
2-3-4 bedroom houses come on undivided lots - this means two (or more)
houses on one lot. If you don’t speak Spanish, it is not too difficult
to find someone (a third party) who can translate for you, so that you
understand what and where you are buying. You can always (after May 10,
05) call us - we have legal resources and real estate professionals that
can assure your peace of mind.
The system is different from the
States but you are still dealing with licensed professionals in a ‘first
world country’. And the deals will make your mouth water. Exposed beams,
huge windows with tremendous views of the lake and or the mountains, two
floors, beautiful landscaping, for less than a $100,000, and many for less
than 50,000. Bariloche is a World Class skiing capital. The months of June,
July, August and into September, hotel rooms are difficult to get. Hotels
for a hundred miles around are booked solid. The tourist bureau is calling
private homes for rooms to rent. This means that if you don’t like winter
you can arrange to rent out your home during those months and make a substantial
income. December through February is national camping season and rooms
are jammed once again. Since you are likely to have 1-3 extra bedrooms
because your dollars buy so much space, renting the unused bedrooms can
make you a tidy income for very little bother. As the main part of the
tourist horde are either Argentineans or Europeans, you make look forward
to these seasons every year when you will meet new friends or see the same
guests year after year. $60,000 can buy you a marvelous 2-3-4 bedroom house
that can generate income. $150-350,000 can buy a small hotel, hosteria,
or apartment complex that caters to tourists that want either day-rentals
or weekly-rentals. There are larger places, of course, ranging into the
millions of dollars, but someone selling their home in the USA can find
in Argentina a place that is very comfortable, with a great view, and income
potential, with money left over.