| They also
enjoy treating their men folk as men the world over enjoy being treated.
Even if it’s only silently longed for as in the PC climes. Food is cooked
and served, clothes washed by hand, dirt floors and yards swept, water
hauled in buckets from community wells, chickens and pigs corralled at
night, children borne and cared for, in a timeless cycle of life. All without
bitterness and complaint over careers lost or fingernails broken.
A typical
day for me runs somewhat like this (with variations for Holidays and Sundays):
5:30am:
The women of the house awaken, sweep the floors and begin cooking breakfast,
which consists of boiled bananas, fried eggs and fish, rice and coffee.
While the coffee and bananas are boiling the women split off into groups,
some to wash clothes others to uncover the chicken “yard” to feed the chickens
and let them out for the day. Any eggs that may have been laid are collected
for breakfast.
6:00am:
Those that have jobs or go to school in the mornings, bathe, eat and leave
for work or school. This is about the time I get up for coffee, which has
been cheerfully prepared by one of the women.
7:00am:
I eat, usually a fried egg sandwich and some rice. Talk around the table;
the younger children are fed as well.
8:00am:
Out to the bathhouse for a cold bucket bath and a shave (this latter, usually
every other day.)
9:00am:
We head down the road a mile or so (horrors—on foot even!) to catch a motocarro
(a motor cycle driven rickshaw) into the nearest town, about 7 miles away.
This will cost about $.60 US. Once in town, I’ll check emails at the local
Internet Café, make whatever phone calls are necessary at the local
cabinas telephonicas, do the day’s grocery shopping at the Mercado and
head back home in time for lunch.
12:00pm:
Lunch. Consists of rice, beans, fried eggs, fried bananas and lemonade.
Talk, joke, laugh around the table.
1:00pm:
Siesta, or for those who care to watch them, noticias and novellas, which
are about one and the same as far as I’m concerned. Unfortunately, they
have their version of the Eagles’ “bubble headed bleached blonde” on the
noon and evening news, broadcast from the Capital. As for me, it’s the
hamaca under the shade of the mango tree.
3:00pm:
Up from siesta, or off with the novellas, floors swept and supper is readied
for the pot.
4:00pm:
High Stakes Community Bingo Game. Vast amounts of money will change hands
today (usually $1.00 or $2.00 US if the game is hot and there are more
than 5 or 6 players).
6:00pm:
Supper, after everyone’s returned from work or school. Consists of soup,
salad, and/or boiled bananas.
7:00pm
Evening noticias, novellas or a pirated DVD screened on my laptop (I’m
really, really sorry Hollywood, really I am).
9:00-10:00pm:
Coffee and bread around the table, talk of the day’s events and lights
out. Time to crawl under the mosquito net.
There are no
real tourist attractions here, except the local cocha or lake, which is
just a tad smaller than the Ponchatrain. Also there is a small tribe of
Indians, “civilized” and reduced to selling trinkets to what few tourists
and/or gringos, petroleros or madereros, (Spanish for oilmen and lumbermen)
may occasionally show up on its shores.
That’s precisely
why I like it here. The most exciting thing to happen here in recent memory
is me showing up to stay awhile. Not exactly stuff for headline news, but
it’s not every day a gringo moves into the neighborhood either.
For recreation,
there is the occasional fishing trip down the river, there are pig hunts
up the river and Sunday nights there are dances and fiestas.
So if high
adventure is what you crave, I suggest looking elsewhere. If, on the other
hand, you appreciate peace, solitude, long languid afternoons lounging
in a hammock under a shade tree, high stakes bingo and the close company
of family and friends, this place might suit you. There are drawbacks.
There has been a recent outbreak of the Dengue and Yellow Fever, mosquitoes
and gnats are bothersome and the heat and humidity take some getting used
to. It’s no worse than Southern Florida in the summertime.
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